Genny or B to B-charger a question from Colin (1 Viewer)

[Don Quixote]

Well you could fit an extra battery (15kg ish ) and buy a B2B and use your costly fuel and run your engine each day or buy a gene ( 15kg ish ) use very little fuel and save your engine..... 6 of one half a dozen or another.

I went for the gene option on the grounds of less use of MH engine..:thumb:

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

Hi Peter, you seem to have misunderstood my point about battery chrging rates. Firstly I never mentioned overcharging, but it is a fact that proper leisure batteries do not take kindly to high charging currents, above 20% of the battery's capacity may cause internal damage to the battery so if a 45 Amp B2B were to be fitted you realistically ought to have just over 200AH of battery capacity in the bank.
D.

Sorry Dave, maybe I did not explain my point well?
You are correct. Putting 45A into a 100Ah battery for an extended time will possibly damage it.
But a 45A B2B charger (or any other type of charger) will not deliver 45A to that 100Ah battery UNLESS the voltages are set too high.
If the charging voltages are set to the battery maker's recommendations, the charge rates will be lower and the battery will not be harmed. It will accept charge at a rate determined by the chemistry of the battery.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[John & Joan]

I would not recommend a WAECO B2B. I had one fitted professionally before a trip to Italy. It banged the current into the leisure batteries no problem. We were driving through blizzards and were diverted off the road by the Police as the road was closed ahead. We were all held at the toll booth with the engine and heater going and the occasional wipe of the screen to see what was going on around us. I managed to get through eventually, after a long wait, but stalled just as I set off from the booth.

The engine would not turn over and on checking the voltage the starter battery was 8v. The leisure batteries were well up. I had been running with lights and heater blower on.

We were taken to a garage and had a new diode pack fitted to the alternator and the B2B was left uncoupled as it sparked when coupled to the starter battery. No further problems apart from watching the leisure batteries state of charge. On return to the UK we went to the supplier who said the B2B was fine and reconnected it.

I ran from Doncaster to Darlington in rain in September and stopped for some shopping It had been raining and the heater blower was going to prevent misting.. Starter battery was flat again on trying to start. Jumped from the leisure battery this time. I had the battery checked at the garage and it seemed OK but changed it because we were heading to Spain again for the winter. Again ran with lights and heater blower on and again the new battery went flat while running en-route to Dover.

It looks like these units do not check the starter battery condition unlike Stirling units and just sucks them dry if they do not get enough power from the alternator. That is 2 batteries changed because of the Waeco unit probably un-necessarily.

B2B is disconnected again. We will fit a Stirling unit when we get back to the UK next Spring.

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[Snowbird]

Interesting comments from John and Joan. If you think about it, what point is there in having a B2B that gives out 60 amps to your leisure batteries when the alternator only puts out 80 amps. If running in inclement weather with lights, 12 volt fridge, heater blower, demisters, possibly a trailer with lights, charging sat nav, mobile phone etc, radio and all the other stuff that's running from 12 volt. Where do all these extra amps come from ?. Am sure that alternators are not designed to run at there rated maximum indefinitely. They certainly don't on tick over. To get the B2B to charge at maximum amps you would need to sit with your foot to the floor, surely. I think for the odd occasion that I will need extra power other than my 240 watt solar system and wind charger I will put a cupfull of petrol in my Kipor. The more I think about these B2B chargers, the more am convinced they are not all they are cracked up 2B.

 

[Forestboy]

Interesting comments from John and Joan. If you think about it, what point is there in having a B2B that gives out 60 amps to your leisure batteries when the alternator only puts out 80 amps. If running in inclement weather with lights, 12 volt fridge, heater blower, demisters, possibly a trailer with lights, charging sat nav, mobile phone etc, radio and all the other stuff that's running from 12 volt. Where do all these extra amps come from ?. Am sure that alternators are not designed to run at there rated maximum indefinitely. They certainly don't on tick over. To get the B2B to charge at maximum amps you would need to sit with your foot to the floor, surely. I think for the odd occasion that I will need extra power other than my 240 watt solar system and wind charger I will put a cupfull of petrol in my Kipor. The more I think about these B2B chargers, the more am convinced they are not all they are cracked up 2B.

Same here I've considered B2B several times but never been convinced.
In fact I spoke to Charles Sterling who told me not to buy a B2B but add a charger (Ctek) to what I already had.
I have a Honda gennie built in the chassis which is so quiet and when I occasionally run it I ask people close by if its annoying them and 9 times out of 10 they don't even know its running and cant believe how quiet it is. Far cheaper to run than my van engine and much much quieter.
I have 3 x 115 deep cycle batteries I will never buy a so called leisure battery again a waste of money in my opinion. Two solar panels on the roof, don't know the size they were already fitted and a 45amp Ctek charger. We very rarely go on EHU certainly haven't been on EHU since April this year and batts are fully charged. If the batts run a bit low when we're parked up in winter and we're using all the facilities including 24hr blown air heating I will run the gennie for half an hour after 3 or 4 days use. This powers the Ctek which is a 4 stage smart charger so quickly recharges the batts, this also has the advantage of powering the 240v in the van at the same time. Because the gennie is in the chassis and has its own fuel tank we can also do this as we're driving.
B2B is good for some but is not the solution for all. A good deep cycle battery bank would take priority over a B2B for me every time.

 

[lee52]

Interesting comments from John and Joan. If you think about it, what point is there in having a B2B that gives out 60 amps to your leisure batteries when the alternator only puts out 80 amps. If running in inclement weather with lights, 12 volt fridge, heater blower, demisters, possibly a trailer with lights, charging sat nav, mobile phone etc, radio and all the other stuff that's running from 12 volt. Where do all these extra amps come from ?. Am sure that alternators are not designed to run at there rated maximum indefinitely. They certainly don't on tick over. To get the B2B to charge at maximum amps you would need to sit with your foot to the floor, surely. I think for the odd occasion that I will need extra power other than my 240 watt solar system and wind charger I will put a cupfull of petrol in my Kipor. The more I think about these B2B chargers, the more am convinced they are not all they are cracked up 2B.

jus like i said before if your just ticking over to charge batts the alt aint gonna do it on tick over with out anything switched on your lucky if you get 13v on a fast idle you will get 13.8 - 14.2 v Ive seen cars bikes etc.. with lights on on tickover barely make over 12.5v the b2b is great for charging when driving but no good to "top up hab bats just ticking over" and i you fired up ran for 10mins then shut off you would have less then you started with the b2b is great for what it is intended for. on my bus i have fitted a volt meter so i can see what the alt is doing and have a isolator relay to the b2b so if i do get a situation where am stuck ticking over i can remove some of the load from the alt to keep the starter batt charged , like the post above i had the exact same prob many winters ago in a car -6c snowing like hell heaters rear heated screen headlights on driving very slowly due to the foot of snow and i ran out of electricity, alt and batt where fine and went for another 3 years till i sold the car

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[jonandshell]

jus like i said before if your just ticking over to charge batts the alt aint gonna do it on tick over with out anything switched on your lucky if you get 13v on a fast idle you will get 13.8 - 14.2 v Ive seen cars bikes etc.. with lights on on tickover barely make over 12.5v the b2b is great for charging when driving but no good to "top up hab bats just ticking over" and i you fired up ran for 10mins then shut off you would have less then you started with the b2b is great for what it is intended for. on my bus i have fitted a volt meter so i can see what the alt is doing and have a isolator relay to the b2b so if i do get a situation where am stuck ticking over i can remove some of the load from the alt to keep the starter batt charged , like the post above i had the exact same prob many winters ago in a car -6c snowing like hell heaters rear heated screen headlights on driving very slowly due to the foot of snow and i ran out of electricity, alt and batt where fine and went for another 3 years till i sold the car

It depends on your alternator.

Our Transit unit puts out 120amps at tickover and 155 amps at 1200 rpm.

The alternator to battery works fine at tickover thankyou!

Please don't generalise based on on limited experience of your vans alternator characteristics.
B2B and A2Bs work very well on vans with modern high output alternators, even on tickover.
I have access to a professioanl quality clamp ammeter, I have not pulled my figures from a hat.

 

[lee52]

It depends on your alternator.

Our Transit unit puts out 120amps at tickover and 155 amps at 1200 rpm.

The alternator to battery works fine at tickover thankyou!

Please don't generalise based on on limited experience of your vans alternator characteristics.
B2B and A2Bs work very well on vans with modern high output alternators, even on tickover.
I have access to a professioanl quality clamp ammeter, I have not pulled my figures from a hat.

limited!!! i have been a mechanic for over 20years you may be producing 120amps but at what voltage? i could push 1000amps into a 12v batt but if am doing it only 11v the batt will never charge up!!!!!

 

[jonandshell]

limited!!! i have been a mechanic for over 20years you may be producing 120amps but at what voltage? i could push 1000amps into a 12v batt but if am doing it only 11v the batt will never charge up!!!!!

The current a battery absorbs is proportional to the battery capacity, its state of charge and the applied voltage during charging.
You say that you can 'push a 1000 amps through a battery at 11 volts' and it won't charge.
That statement alone suggests to me that your knowledge of lead acid batteries and their charging and discharging characteristics is rather mislead.
You don't 'push amps' into batteries. What you do is apply a voltage exceeding that of the battery's nominal voltage. This applied voltage, depending on its magnitude, results in current flow. That current is controlled by the internal resistance of the battery, nothing else.
If you wish to increase the current flow into a battery, the only way is to increase the applied voltage.
Hence the rason for a B2B of A2B charger.

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[lee52]

The current a battery absorbs is proportional to the battery capacity, its state of charge and the applied voltage during charging.
You say that you can 'push a 1000 amps through a battery at 11 volts' and it won't charge.
That statement alone suggests to me that your knowledge of lead acid batteries and their charging and discharging characteristics is rather mislead.
You don't 'push amps' into batteries. What you do is apply a voltage exceeding that of the battery's nominal voltage. This applied voltage, depending on its magnitude, results in current flow. That current is controlled by the internal resistance of the battery, nothing else.
If you wish to increase the current flow into a battery, the only way is to increase the applied voltage.
Hence the rason for a B2B of A2B charger.

i know you dont push current i was using simplified language btw when u measured your 120 amps on tickover had your derv engine just been started or was it up to full temp?
cos even after you start up your derv engine glow plug etc... continue to heat to help the engine run untill it is up to a certain temp likewise many modern dervs have glow heaters in the coolant system yet again to help heat the engine up so the initial current draw after start up is very very high so yet again you could be indeed producing 120amps but at what voltage if its under 12.8v u aint charging your batts .
you know what am bored now. I took great offence to you saying i have limited knowledge you know nothing about me or my background likewise I know nothing about you

 

[haganap]

I always love these debates...

I I will say the following and that's it.

its up to the OP to make her decision based on teh facts.

Take all your science, your 100 years experience in electro magnetics.

mine is based on facts. Facts that surround my useage.

In 10 motorhoming years I have everything from solars to wind turbines.

i now have 3 batteries, 1x 80 w Solar panel a B2B and a 140amp ALternator.

i motorhome from tempretures where people wouldn't get out the van because its too cold.. to gorgeous sunny days. Ive heard it all, it won't work to it will blow your van up, it will wax your injectors, your alternator won't cope. You name it the experts have told me of something that makes it not work.

The only expert is me and the dozens I know that use the system. The B2B does exactly what it says on the tin in my case. It is professionally fitted by myself and a very well educated former Army engineer who knows his stuff.

You can pick as many holes in it as you like, the thing is brilliant.

As Rory says, it might not be in everyones interests, especially his as he has the crem de le crem of motorhoming, a gorgeous On board Genny. If I had an On board Genny I too wouldn't be having a B2B.
But Dave snowbird? are you serious? did I really read you wanting or even suggesting the Effoy fuel celll

Go and read the articles and then come back.. The biggest rip off the Motorhoming indusrty has ever seen, especially for someone like you who likes to travel.

 

[Snowbird]

Well there you have it Amy. Some say a generator is rubbish. Some say a B2B is rubbish. One says an Efoy is rubbish, so you can now make up your own mind . I made my decision a long time ago with 330 amps of batteries, 250 watts of solar panels, a self seeking solar tracker which I have yet to fit, a wind turbine for when its windy and on the odd occasion, which I must admit was only once since I bought it and that was to annoy Old Mo , a Kipor 1KW generator. Best of luck with your decision making

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[Armytwowheels]

Well I understood about a 5th of all that lot, but thankfully Colin understood nearly all of it. Our cheapest option ( as we are selling the van next year ) is to fit a b to b and up grade the battery bank. That will hopefully get us through our winter holiday in Scotland with no hook up. As long as we are not snowed in we can take the van for a little drive to the shops after a few days, if we need to.

Colin is excited that he has an excuse to fit more gadgets to the van anyway so he's happy!

When we ger our next van and are 'More Timing' we will look at the whole system again.

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions.

 

[chrisboyo]

I have an auto sleepers with a sentry system fitted. I was thinking of fitting a b2b but then someone told me that I can set the sentry unit to do the same thing
Is this correct ?

 

[jonandshell]

i know you dont push current i was using simplified language btw when u measured your 120 amps on tickover had your derv engine just been started or was it up to full temp?
cos even after you start up your derv engine glow plug etc... continue to heat to help the engine run untill it is up to a certain temp likewise many modern dervs have glow heaters in the coolant system yet again to help heat the engine up so the initial current draw after start up is very very high so yet again you could be indeed producing 120amps but at what voltage if its under 12.8v u aint charging your batts .
you know what am bored now. I took great offence to you saying i have limited knowledge you know nothing about me or my background likewise I know nothing about you

I apologise to you if offence was taken, it wasn't intended.oh:

I didn't intend to imply that you had limited mechanical or electrical knowledge, but your post appeared to dismiss the concept of a battery to battery charger based on your own experience with your own vehicle.

A B2B or A2B charger is designed to do 2 things-

1. To amplify the voltage applied to an auxiliary battery to increase the charging current. The increased voltage also ensures that the auxiliary battery is FULLY charged.
Standard vehicle alternators output a maximum of 14.3-14.4 volts. This prevents gassing of sealed lead acid batteries and thus ensures they stay maintenance a free. This is perfect for the modern motorist. However, 14.4 volts will only charge a lead-acid battery to 80% of its maximum capacity' this is not good for off-grid campers.
The downside of this high-voltage charging is that the auxiliary battery will require more care in the way of occasion topping up. In our case this is once-yearly.


2. To take the stone-age fixed output from the alternator and convert it to a correctly regulated 4-step charging process for the auxiliary battery. Fixed-output chargers are a thing of the past in the industrial battery world.
A fixed output charger, when left on a battery, shortens the life of a battery. If you wish to leave a charger attached to your auxiliary battery, it must be capable of 'floating' the battery at about 13.4 volts. A standard alternator cannot do this. A B2B or A2B can and does, drastically increasing battery life.

Interestingly, you say that any voltage under 12.8 volts from your alternator won't charge your batteries. I agree fully with that statement.

However, when our A2B is charging a flat battery bank, the alternator measured voltage is about 13 volts. This is because of the heavy load being placed on the alternator by the charger. The alternator is struggling to keep up!
However, Sterling quite cleverly ensure the starter battery gets looked after by suspending charging for 3 minutes in every 20.
At the auxiliary batteries, traction monoblocs in our case, the voltage is about 14.7 volts.
Measured current at the alternator is 120 amps, current at the auxiliary batteries is 90 amps.
This suggests to me, with nothing else switched on, the engine management draws 30 amps.
These figures are at tickover.

As an example of our utilisation of our A2B, when skiing we discharge our batteries over 2 days, down to about 40%, is about 120Ah used. This is running the Webasto blown air and boiler 24/7, a few hours of TV, lights and water pump.
Every other day, at lunchtime, we run the engine at tickover for 1 1/2 hours.
That is all we require for our energy requirements in temperatures of -5 to -20.:thumb:

When driving, the 80%- discharged 345 Ah traction batteries fully recharge after 3 hours. The onboard charger, if on hookup or generator would take 20 hrs to achieve the same.

It is all a matter of horses for courses, but I do tire of those who dismiss the concept of Sterling's products without either understanding them or having tried them.

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[JockandRita]

Thanks Jon, for that excellent explanation of what can be achieved from the Sterling B2B and A2B products.

It saved me a lengthy post on the merits of the B2B. :thumb:

As Rory says, it might not be in everyones interests, especially his as he has the crem de le crem of motorhoming, a gorgeous On board Genny. If I had an On board Genny I too wouldn't be having a B2B.

Paul, Rita and I have the "same crem de la crem of motorhoming", ie, a gorgeous onboard genny, however, I can assure you, that it does not have the same charging capability of either a Sterling B2B, or their A2B.

Whilst touring in France a few years ago, we did have the genny running whilst we were driving for several hours, and the (new) leisure batteries did not recharge fully. Since fitting the B2B, recharging fully is now almost a common occurrence, without the use of the genny, or EHU.......................even at idle engine speed. :thumb:

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[FULL TIMER]

Well I understood about a 5th of all that lot, but thankfully Colin understood nearly all of it. Our cheapest option ( as we are selling the van next year ) is to fit a b to b and up grade the battery bank. That will hopefully get us through our winter holiday in Scotland with no hook up. As long as we are not snowed in we can take the van for a little drive to the shops after a few days, if we need to.

Colin is excited that he has an excuse to fit more gadgets to the van anyway so he's happy!

When we ger our next van and are 'More Timing' we will look at the whole system again.

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions.

Obviously it's all down to your choice but if I were you and planning to sell the vehicle next season I would save your money on the B2B, genny or anything else and just pay a little more to go on a site with hookup this time and look to doing the mods on the next van, for the sake of one winter holiday why spend your hard earned for some one else to get all the benefit

 

[Forestboy]

Thanks Jon, for that excellent explanation of what can be achieved from the Sterling B2B and A2B products.

It saved me a lengthy post on the merits of the B2B. :thumb:


Paul, Rita and I have the "same crem de la crem of motorhoming", ie, a gorgeous onboard genny, however, I can assure you, that it does not have the same charging capability of either a Sterling B2B, or their A2B.

Whilst touring in France a few years ago, we did have the genny running whilst we were driving for several hours, and the (new) leisure batteries did not recharge fully. Since fitting the B2B, recharging fully is now almost a common occurrence, without the use of the genny, or EHU.......................even at idle engine speed. :thumb:

Cheers,

Jock.

Hi Jock
Hope you're both well haven't seen you for ages :thumb:

That's what the Ctek does, which is very similar to the B2B I suppose up to 3 hours to fully recharge if almost flat most times after 2 or 3 days use of grid 20 to 30 minutes does the job.

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[jonandshell]

Hi Jock
Hope you're both well haven't seen you for ages :thumb:

That's what the Ctek does, which is very similar to the B2B I suppose up to 3 hours to fully recharge if almost flat most times after 2 or 3 days use of grid 20 to 30 minutes does the job.

I take it the ctek charger has a much higher output than the electroblok then Rory?

I think genny-owners (and the rest of mankind around them!) Could benefit from the reduced run times a higher-output charger could provide over the standard offerings!:thumb:

 

[Forestboy]

No idea Jon oh:
I spoke to Charles Sterling and he recommended this route for me based on how my van was set up. All I know is it works.
I also fitted the batteries you recommended after more so called leisure battery failure and now we never worry about our electric supply. :thumb:

 

[haganap]

Thanks Jon, for that excellent explanation of what can be achieved from the Sterling B2B and A2B products.

It saved me a lengthy post on the merits of the B2B. :thumb:


Paul, Rita and I have the "same crem de la crem of motorhoming", ie, a gorgeous onboard genny, however, I can assure you, that it does not have the same charging capability of either a Sterling B2B, or their A2B.

Whilst touring in France a few years ago, we did have the genny running whilst we were driving for several hours, and the (new) leisure batteries did not recharge fully. Since fitting the B2B, recharging fully is now almost a common occurrence, without the use of the genny, or EHU.......................even at idle engine speed. :thumb:

Cheers,

Jock.

No jock I must of explained it wrong. .I mean why would you need anything as you have instant power by firing up the genny..:thumb: no need for 12v if you have instant 230

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[stcyr]

2 winters spent up a welsh hillside with 2 x 110a batteries with 80w solar panel ... with Propex heating.
2 winters likewise, with 130w solar and one 110a battery ... with Truma heating.

No probs ...

 

[Armytwowheels]

Obviously it's all down to your choice but if I were you and planning to sell the vehicle next season I would save your money on the B2B, genny or anything else and just pay a little more to go on a site with hookup this time and look to doing the mods on the next van, for the sake of one winter holiday why spend your hard earned for some one else to get all the benefit

We need to do the work as we want to camp at the bottom of the ski slopes rather than stay on a campsite and have to drive to the slopes everyday.

 

[FULL TIMER]

fair enough, still the B2B is very easy to install so no reason why you couldn't take it back off before the sale, I love the sterling stuff but up until now have had to make do with one of the excellent battery chargers they do ,......Mark

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[lee52]

I apologise to you if offence was taken, it wasn't intended.oh:

I didn't intend to imply that you had limited mechanical or electrical knowledge, but your post appeared to dismiss the concept of a battery to battery charger based on your own experience with your own vehicle.

A B2B or A2B charger is designed to do 2 things-

1. To amplify the voltage applied to an auxiliary battery to increase the charging current. The increased voltage also ensures that the auxiliary battery is FULLY charged.
Standard vehicle alternators output a maximum of 14.3-14.4 volts. This prevents gassing of sealed lead acid batteries and thus ensures they stay maintenance a free. This is perfect for the modern motorist. However, 14.4 volts will only charge a lead-acid battery to 80% of its maximum capacity' this is not good for off-grid campers.
The downside of this high-voltage charging is that the auxiliary battery will require more care in the way of occasion topping up. In our case this is once-yearly.


2. To take the stone-age fixed output from the alternator and convert it to a correctly regulated 4-step charging process for the auxiliary battery. Fixed-output chargers are a thing of the past in the industrial battery world.
A fixed output charger, when left on a battery, shortens the life of a battery. If you wish to leave a charger attached to your auxiliary battery, it must be capable of 'floating' the battery at about 13.4 volts. A standard alternator cannot do this. A B2B or A2B can and does, drastically increasing battery life.

Interestingly, you say that any voltage under 12.8 volts from your alternator won't charge your batteries. I agree fully with that statement.

However, when our A2B is charging a flat battery bank, the alternator measured voltage is about 13 volts. This is because of the heavy load being placed on the alternator by the charger. The alternator is struggling to keep up!
However, Sterling quite cleverly ensure the starter battery gets looked after by suspending charging for 3 minutes in every 20.
At the auxiliary batteries, traction monoblocs in our case, the voltage is about 14.7 volts.
Measured current at the alternator is 120 amps, current at the auxiliary batteries is 90 amps.
This suggests to me, with nothing else switched on, the engine management draws 30 amps.
These figures are at tickover.

As an example of our utilisation of our A2B, when skiing we discharge our batteries over 2 days, down to about 40%, is about 120Ah used. This is running the Webasto blown air and boiler 24/7, a few hours of TV, lights and water pump.
Every other day, at lunchtime, we run the engine at tickover for 1 1/2 hours.
That is all we require for our energy requirements in temperatures of -5 to -20.:thumb:

When driving, the 80%- discharged 345 Ah traction batteries fully recharge after 3 hours. The onboard charger, if on hookup or generator would take 20 hrs to achieve the same.

It is all a matter of horses for courses, but I do tire of those who dismiss the concept of Sterling's products without either understanding them or having tried them.

:beer: :sorry2: I agree with you it is horses for courses and what works for one doesnt work for another I wasnt dismissing sterling products at all. all these products have a place and use. just pointing out that just firing up and ticking for a few mins could result in taking out more than you put it. and it really does depend on lots of factors alternator effic the actual pulley setup denotes the rpm the alt spins on tickover etc... like you your alternator works very well at tickover and coupled to well setup system that you installed you have a perfect setup. just unfortunately i have seen very poor ones and I am sure you have as well.

I have a b2b setup now as well as on board genny and to be honest I will prob never use the genny but its nice as a belts and braces thing and I have 1.5 t payload to play with.

I really dont like upseting ppl so if we ever do met up in the real world how does a handshake and pint sound

 

[jonandshell]

:beer: :sorry2: I agree with you it is horses for courses and what works for one doesnt work for another I wasnt dismissing sterling products at all. all these products have a place and use. just pointing out that just firing up and ticking for a few mins could result in taking out more than you put it. and it really does depend on lots of factors alternator effic the actual pulley setup denotes the rpm the alt spins on tickover etc... like you your alternator works very well at tickover and coupled to well setup system that you installed you have a perfect setup. just unfortunately i have seen very poor ones and I am sure you have as well.

I have a b2b setup now as well as on board genny and to be honest I will prob never use the genny but its nice as a belts and braces thing and I have 1.5 t payload to play with.

I really dont like upseting ppl so if we ever do met up in the real world how does a handshake and pint sound

Sounds good to me Lee, I really didn't want to upset anyone. I am probably guilty of being too enthusiastic about all things battery related and too defensive of my views and experiences. People who know me will vouch for my helpfulness and general good nature, I feel I put my foot in it and made a bad impression.oh:

I work in the world of forklifts and material handling. 90% of my work is on electrically driven kit powered by, you guessed it, good old open lead acid batteries.
That hasn't always been the case, I originally trained as an agricultural mechanic before joining the army. That career mainly involved fixing green stuff with tracks and wheels on! I left after 9 years, passed through a bit of ag and forestry en-route to forklifts.
I thought I had a good understanding of batteries and charging until I got involved in the forklift world 14 years ago. It has been a steep learning curve and I find myself calculating watts, amps, volts, specific gravity, cable cross sectional area, lug sizes and ampere hours in my sleep!
I need to get out more! Help!!!

It would be good to have a drink Lee, hopefully meet sometime!:thumb:

-Jon

 

[lee52]

Sounds good to me Lee, I really didn't want to upset anyone. I am probably guilty of being too enthusiastic about all things battery related and too defensive of my views and experiences. People who know me will vouch for my helpfulness and general good nature, I feel I put my foot in it and made a bad impression.oh:

I work in the world of forklifts and material handling. 90% of my work is on electrically driven kit powered by, you guessed it, good old open lead acid batteries.
That hasn't always been the case, I originally trained as an agricultural mechanic before joining the army. That career mainly involved fixing green stuff with tracks and wheels on! I left after 9 years, passed through a bit of ag and forestry en-route to forklifts.
I thought I had a good understanding of batteries and charging until I got involved in the forklift world 14 years ago. It has been a steep learning curve and I find myself calculating watts, amps, volts, specific gravity, cable cross sectional area, lug sizes and ampere hours in my sleep!
I need to get out more! Help!!!

It would be good to have a drink Lee, hopefully meet sometime!:thumb:

-Jon

I know what you mean about thinking about it in your sleep lol I used to build streetfighters and chopper motorbikes and found i couldnt switch off thinking about it. my otherhalf will vouch theres been many a time I have woke like 2 in the morn with the solution for a prob or an idea and I have to act on it lol and go to the workshop. I was a sign maker for while and I became a sign pervert couldnt go past a sign with out touching and looking at it

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[JockandRita]

Hi Jock
Hope you're both well haven't seen you for ages :thumb:

Same here Rory. :thumb: Are you and Jan back now from your Noth American trip?

That's what the Ctek does, which is very similar to the B2B I suppose up to 3 hours to fully recharge if almost flat most times after 2 or 3 days use of grid 20 to 30 minutes does the job.

Ah ha, now we are talking of useful onboard genny time. :thumb: That does make all the difference.

No jock I must of explained it wrong. .I mean why would you need anything as you have instant power by firing up the genny.. no need for 12v if you have instant 230

Or I maybe picked it up wrong Paul. :Blush: I have been told that our genny is quiet, and as I'm not convinced myself, I am very self conscious of using it. :Sad:

Adding the CTEK as Rory has done, would make good use of the genny, especially if no neighbours and in the middle of nowhere :thumb:
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and only about 100yds from the nearest pub.

 

[jb0371old]

Sounds good to me Lee, I really didn't want to upset anyone. I am probably guilty of being too enthusiastic about all things battery related and too defensive of my views and experiences. People who know me will vouch for my helpfulness and general good nature, I feel I put my foot in it and made a bad impression.oh:

I work in the world of forklifts and material handling. 90% of my work is on electrically driven kit powered by, you guessed it, good old open lead acid batteries.
That hasn't always been the case, I originally trained as an agricultural mechanic before joining the army. That career mainly involved fixing green stuff with tracks and wheels on! I left after 9 years, passed through a bit of ag and forestry en-route to forklifts.
I thought I had a good understanding of batteries and charging until I got involved in the forklift world 14 years ago. It has been a steep learning curve and I find myself calculating watts, amps, volts, specific gravity, cable cross sectional area, lug sizes and ampere hours in my sleep!
I need to get out more! Help!!!

It would be good to have a drink Lee, hopefully meet sometime!:thumb:

-Jon

I can vouch for that, i get bored senseless every day when we walk the mutts.

(gets you back for using my spare key so as to empty your toilet)

 

[jonandshell]

I can vouch for that, i get bored senseless every day when we walk the mutts.

(gets you back for using my spare key so as to empty your toilet)

Careful!!

I still have that key!!!

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