Gas pipe... how long?

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Hi all, I'm figuring on installing a BBQ point on my Panel Van and wondered if there was an issue with the length of 8mm copper tube I will need to use which could be around 7m long to the Bulfinch point from the isolating valve on the manifold?
I intend to install the point at the rear nearside but the gas supply is on the offside forward of the rear wheels under the kitchen sink.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks and Merry Safe Christmas all!
 
I did mine a couple of years back, run the 6mtrs of 8mm copper pipe with great difficulty from nearside under sink cupboard manifold with (new separate isolation tap) down behind cupboards, over wheel arch internally, then across between double floor to nearside rear. Fitted a Bullfinch BBQ point, pressure tested for leaks all done. (y)
I know a lot of people tap off somewhere like the Fridge Freezer feed pipe, but its best to fit the BBQ point with its own feed pipe from the manifold with its own isolator if you can.
I will wait for some incoming flack now.
LES:giggle:
 
Whilst I am no expert, I can't think of any reason why a run of 7m would present any problem, usual gas rules, no joints in the pipe, frequent rubber lined pipe clips, and a drop out in the floor under the connections.
 
Whilst I am no expert, I can't think of any reason why a run of 7m would present any problem, usual gas rules, no joints in the pipe, frequent rubber lined pipe clips, and a drop out in the floor under the connections.
Hi Bob
Compression fittings are allowed on LPG if correct ones are used, my German van has steel pipes to all appliances & every bend has a 90 degree elbow, sometimes a straight coupling is used to install/remove an appliance. No soldered joints are used due to vibration issues causing them to crack (I was advised). All pipes secured at regular intervals with rubber lined SS saddles to give support.
This is the type used on my van, so I ordered the same when I did my job.
LES
<Broken link removed>
 
So I am guessing that the length of pipe is not an issue.
It might make things easier if I use a couple of 90 degree elbows, I will have to see how I get on with my new pipe bender!
 
I did mine a couple of years back, run the 6mtrs of 8mm copper pipe with great difficulty from nearside under sink cupboard manifold with (new separate isolation tap) down behind cupboards, over wheel arch internally, then across between double floor to nearside rear. Fitted a Bullfinch BBQ point, pressure tested for leaks all done. (y)
I know a lot of people tap off somewhere like the Fridge Freezer feed pipe, but its best to fit the BBQ point with its own feed pipe from the manifold with its own isolator if you can.
I will wait for some incoming flack now.
LES:giggle:
Thanks Les, I'm going to be replacing the duel manifold with a 3-way to isolate the Bullfinch point.
Also, my pipe is going to have to go under the van as I can't now get past all the cabinets and shower etc.
Steve. (y)
 
The length is not an issue, other than bleeding off 8m of air. Keep the pipe warm when bending (not hot) and you can do it without a pipe bender. But be careful to radius any bends as trying to set a 90 degree bend without a bending spring will crease the pipe. So a smooth slow bend round is best. If you need a tight 90 degree, put in a fitting. Sleeve the pipe when passing through any metalwork to reduce the rubbing risk. And clip it regularly with lined clips.

The hardest part is working inside cabinets already fitted, because access can be notoriously tight
 
Thanks Les, I'm going to be replacing the duel manifold with a 3-way to isolate the Bullfinch point.
Also, my pipe is going to have to go under the van as I can't now get past all the cabinets and shower etc.
Steve. (y)
Yea I know the problem of getting past cupboards, it took me 2 days with a endoscope camera between floors to get my pipe routed, it would have been impossible to do it in one piece, so fitted the gas elbows at each 90 degree bend.
The air was very Blue at the time, as my knuckles were skinned, and the pipe kinked on occasions, so had to restart.:mad:
If running pipe under the van, the you could offer it more protection by sliding some plastic convoluted conduit along it before fixing. I use a lot of this stuff for cables & pipes, comes in different sizes.
LES
<Broken link removed>
 
The length is not an issue, other than bleeding off 8m of air. Keep the pipe warm when bending (not hot) and you can do it without a pipe bender. But be careful to radius any bends as trying to set a 90 degree bend without a bending spring will crease the pipe. So a smooth slow bend round is best. If you need a tight 90 degree, put in a fitting. Sleeve the pipe when passing through any metalwork to reduce the rubbing risk. And clip it regularly with lined clips.

The hardest part is working inside cabinets already fitted, because access can be notoriously tight
Thanks for the advice, appreciated.

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Yea I know the problem of getting past cupboards, it took me 2 days with a endoscope camera between floors to get my pipe routed, it would have been impossible to do it in one piece, so fitted the gas elbows at each 90 degree bend.
The air was very Blue at the time, as my knuckles were skinned, and the pipe kinked on occasions, so had to restart.:mad:
If running pipe under the van, the you could offer it more protection by sliding some plastic convoluted conduit along it before fixing. I use a lot of this stuff for cables & pipes, comes in different sizes.
LES
<Broken link removed>
I think I am going to follow the supply pipe back and through the floor at the same point... shouldn't be too difficult running the pipe beneath the van, and I'll make good use of some convoluted pipe I have knocking about in the garage, good call!
 
Is there no nearer supply? There are two reasons to use an isolator valve: the first is so the appliance it serves can be worked on without affecting everything else; the second (more important) reason is so the appliance it serves can be isolated in the event of a fault. If the supply chosen also served, for example the cooker or fridge, it wouldn't be particularly inconvenient if either were turned off along with the barbecue connection. Especially as faults that require isolation are extremely rare.
 
Is there no nearer supply? There are two reasons to use an isolator valve: the first is so the appliance it serves can be worked on without affecting everything else; the second (more important) reason is so the appliance it serves can be isolated in the event of a fault. If the supply chosen also served, for example the cooker or fridge, it wouldn't be particularly inconvenient if either were turned off along with the barbecue connection. Especially as faults that require isolation are extremely rare.
Unfortunately no. The fridge on the nearside is a two way 240v/12v so no gas.
It also seems to make sense to have all the gas controls together and they are easily accessible.
 
An external pipe bending spring might help in those awkward areas,

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