Hi, I have a chausson. Flash from 2012. Fridge will not work on 12volt when engine running. Found a fuse blown under side seat in a white box with a relay and thought that was it. Replaced fuse but still does not work. It's fine on mains and gas. Any ideas?
Fridge not working. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Pechris
- Start date
If it's a big white box does it have a make/model number on it? If it's a small white box, is it one of two, with a big fuse and a small fuse in each?
If the 12v element has gone faulty it could of blown the fuse at point of failure. As there could now be an open circuit in the element, replacing the fuse would make no difference. You need to check the element with a meter for continuity.
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Agreed, but I’d be checking that the heater is being fed 12V prior to undertaking a continuity test.
Ian
Hello autorouter, it has two boxes with relay and does in each as you say. Any advice would be good.
Thanks, Pete.
Thanks, Pete.
It is two box,s with relay and fuses as you say. Any advisor be greatfull. received. Pete.
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As you may know, a relay is an electrically controlled switch. A small current through a coil causes a magnetic field, that pulls two heavy-duty contacts together so that they touch.
The fridge relay has one heavy-duty contact going to the starter battery, through a big fuse. That contact should measure exactly the same voltage as the starter battery, all the time. If not check the big fuse.
The other heavy-duty contact goes to the fridge 12V heater element. It should be zero when the engine is stopped, and jump to the starter battery voltage when the engine starts.
The coil contacts (low current): one will be permanently earthed, the other goes to the D+ signal, via the small fuse. The D+ signal is zero when the engine is stopped, and about 12V when the engine is running. If not, check the small fuse.
But which of the two is the fridge relay? The other relay will be the split charge relay. That has one heavy duty contact going to the starter battery through a big fuse, just like the fridge relay. But the other heavy-duty contact goes to the leisure battery, and will be exactly the same voltage as the leisure battery, all the time. So you can tell the difference by measuring the voltages.
The fridge relay has one heavy-duty contact going to the starter battery, through a big fuse. That contact should measure exactly the same voltage as the starter battery, all the time. If not check the big fuse.
The other heavy-duty contact goes to the fridge 12V heater element. It should be zero when the engine is stopped, and jump to the starter battery voltage when the engine starts.
The coil contacts (low current): one will be permanently earthed, the other goes to the D+ signal, via the small fuse. The D+ signal is zero when the engine is stopped, and about 12V when the engine is running. If not, check the small fuse.
But which of the two is the fridge relay? The other relay will be the split charge relay. That has one heavy duty contact going to the starter battery through a big fuse, just like the fridge relay. But the other heavy-duty contact goes to the leisure battery, and will be exactly the same voltage as the leisure battery, all the time. So you can tell the difference by measuring the voltages.
Had/have this with mine.
Two faults discovered that may or may not have been related but was described as 'a cascade' failure.
The electrobox needed a service, where faults were found and rectified.
Howeve on refitting still no 12V fridge function.
The mechanic contacted the electrobox fim and they had an on speakerphone conversation in the van. with one directing the other on what to test.
The result was a simple fault, that may or may not have broken the electrobox, the wire from the engine that told the electrobox that the engine was running and so armed the 12V fridge supply had failed, well there was no power coming from it.
The mechanic ran a piece of loose cable from the engine to the electobox, the fidge now worked!
Now the mechanic asked, "I can spend a lot of time and disruption tracking the cable through the wiring loom, or a can just thread a piece of wire through the gaps, secure it and job done?"
Two faults discovered that may or may not have been related but was described as 'a cascade' failure.
The electrobox needed a service, where faults were found and rectified.
Howeve on refitting still no 12V fridge function.
The mechanic contacted the electrobox fim and they had an on speakerphone conversation in the van. with one directing the other on what to test.
The result was a simple fault, that may or may not have broken the electrobox, the wire from the engine that told the electrobox that the engine was running and so armed the 12V fridge supply had failed, well there was no power coming from it.
The mechanic ran a piece of loose cable from the engine to the electobox, the fidge now worked!
Now the mechanic asked, "I can spend a lot of time and disruption tracking the cable through the wiring loom, or a can just thread a piece of wire through the gaps, secure it and job done?"
Thank you very much. I will check all that out later this week.
Very good info and explained well. (even I can understand it)
Pete.
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