Trying to put a door stay on old holes, not easy to get good fixing strength. Is it better to start again in a different spot. The catch on the body side is fine, it's getting the one on the door right that's the problem.
Fixing door stay into old holes
- Thread starter Port Talbot
- Start date
grasscutter
LIFE MEMBER
- Oct 11, 2009
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- Started in 1980
One option would be to glue on a small metal plate and then fix to that.
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If you can get to the inside of the door, you could position a reinforcing plate and use screws or even small nuts and bolts.
Geoff
Geoff
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- Dec 19, 2020
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Reinforce the area by injecting epoxy resin then redrill to take bolts/screws.
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- Feb 5, 2020
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Any recommendations on a bonding material, ours has been attempted a few times.
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Are you talking vehicle doors or internal? Metal, fibreglass plastic or wood? Different methods for different materials !
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OP
OP
External aluminium for mine, bonding options would be appreciated. Thanks for all the replies
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TheBig1
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- Nov 27, 2011
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I generally use sikaflex or the cheaper puraflex to bond things to the motorhome. It gives a solid waterproof seal and I use thin aluminium plate of 1.5 or 2mm which is much stronger than the foil used in the original wall, that has no structural strength other than the bond to the inner foam core
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I've used Rivnuts as well, a bit like a pop rivet but with a thread in
Amazon product ASIN B09ZYBBDVX
Amazon product ASIN B09ZYBBDVX
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OP
OP
How do you fix the threaded part and how do you get it in the right spot to locate the fixing correctly?
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OP
OP
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OP
OP
The right hand hole seems ok, the left side one had four rawplugs in it and bits of mastic. Left hand side is about 10mm dia.
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Thats exactly what I did seemed to work well
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OP
OP
Okay thanks, did wonder about using fibreglass p40 compound which would do the same thing I think
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I think it's a bit more difficult given the sikaflex or whatever around the holes. Id try and remove as much as possible especially just behind the holes then mask the surface mix some epoxy and work it into the holes to try and get a blob of epoxy on the inside and wipe off the excess on the outside before it goes off. When its set drilll a pilot hole and screw into it. As I said it worked for me there are probably some other options too if you could easily get to the back I'd bond a piece of alloy on the back and fix into that it would have be difficult for my repair and have needed a lot of dismantling
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There are fitting used with false ceilings etc that expand when one tightens it. Could a plate be put behind one of those, thus spreading the wieght over a larger area?
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- Dec 19, 2020
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Araldite is my usual one for these small jobs. Available in your local hardware store.
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OP
OP
Would you put a plug in there before it sets or just drill then screw
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pappajohn
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Depending how big the cover plate is and how thick the door is you could use plasterboard 'screw-it'they can be shortened by screwing in half way , unscrew then snap off the pointy bit.
NCaan 20pk Heavy Duty Metal Self-Drill Plasterboard Fixings with Screws—Superior Tight Grip & Strong Hold—Plasterboard Wall Fixing—Driva Plasterboard Fixings—Metal Self-Drill Anchor 31mm (Pack of 20)
Amazon product ASIN B08P9TJM2N
NCaan 20pk Heavy Duty Metal Self-Drill Plasterboard Fixings with Screws—Superior Tight Grip & Strong Hold—Plasterboard Wall Fixing—Driva Plasterboard Fixings—Metal Self-Drill Anchor 31mm (Pack of 20)
Amazon product ASIN B08P9TJM2N
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- Dec 19, 2020
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Given the loads that can occur on door stays, I'm not sure I'd trust a couple of screws. I'd probably set a couple of nuts in there and use machine screws.
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Difficult one do you want strong fixings that will fasten well to the MH wall but potentially dammage it or weak ones that give before theres dammage or like us a long bit or string to the door mirror!
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OP
OP
I like that idea but don't think there's enough space to accomodate the threaded part in the door as it's only a10mm wide hole, and I don't want to start trying to make that any bigger. I think fill the hole, drill it and glue the door stay onto the door as well. Looking at using P40 mixed up fibreglass paste which is pretty strong when set.
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