Fitting a fan in fridge outlet vent (1 Viewer)

Lenny HB

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R

Robert Clark

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That looks a bit naff, a single 92mm fan that looks cheap & nasty not a very good blade design. Fixed temperature control so can not be adjusted to suit the fridge installation, might as well throw your money in the bin.
I wasn't offering a product endorsement
Just a link

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Dec 11, 2011
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@Rob Turner -or @Lenny HB I'm thinking of getting the same controller. Does yours 'remember' the temperature setting when it's powered off or is it powered all the time? The reason I ask is that the easiest place for me to position the controller is in the back of the fridge (so not easily accessible) and I am thinking of having an off/on/auto switch accessible from within the motorhome.
With this in mind, I really don't want to be having to change settings on the controller every time I switch the thing on!!
Thanks,
Bill
 
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May 22, 2015
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Mine is always on so can't comment but it's a cracking setup and only 1/2 hour to wire it and set it up
@Rob Turner -or @Lenny HB I'm thinking of getting the same controller. Does yours 'remember' the temperature setting when it's powered off or is it powered all the time? The reason I ask is that the easiest place for me to position the controller is in the back of the fridge (so not easily accessible) and I am thinking of having an off/on/auto switch accessible from within the motorhome.
With this in mind, I really don't want to be having to change settings on the controller every time I switch the thing on!!
Thanks,
Bill
 

Lenny HB

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Yes it remembers the temperature, my one has a latching relay in it you hold one of the buttons down for a few secs to turn it off.
If you are going to mount it behind the fridge (I did that on my last van) might as well use and once set up put it in a plastic box.

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Feb 13, 2013
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This is the one I have ordered and it says it comes with a temperature sensor.

Hi Martin,

Decided to email the supplier re. the above as I had some spare time and this is their reply:-

This kit is including;

> frame with 2 ventilators + an integrated temperature sensor, so the sensor is on the frame.

> remote control with potentio meter, so that you are able to “program” the temperature on which the ventilators should go on (in automatic setting). Plus you can switch to manual.

I am really confused now as my understanding is that the fans should be located in the upper vent and the sensor near the absorption unit unless I have got this back to front! Looks a really neat unit so really keen to understand how this might work!

 

funflair

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Hi Martin,

Decided to email the supplier re. the above as I had some spare time and this is their reply:-

This kit is including;

> frame with 2 ventilators + an integrated temperature sensor, so the sensor is on the frame.

> remote control with potentio meter, so that you are able to “program” the temperature on which the ventilators should go on (in automatic setting). Plus you can switch to manual.

I am really confused now as my understanding is that the fans should be located in the upper vent and the sensor near the absorption unit unless I have got this back to front! Looks a really neat unit so really keen to understand how this might work!
Well although I have ordered one it is not despatched for a week or so as out of stock, yes the fans go in the top vent but the temperature sensor wants to be high up as well on the basis that hot air rises, I will start a thread when it arrives so keep your eyes peeled.

Martin
 

Lenny HB

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I mounted my sensor on a strip of alloy bettween the fans. Not that criticle where the sensor is but it does need to be above the absorption fins. it will just make a difference to the actual temperature you have to set for the fans to turn on at a given ambient.
upload_2017-7-6_18-1-2.png

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Dec 11, 2011
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If you are going to mount it behind the fridge (I did that on my last van) might as well use and once set up put it in a plastic box.
Sorry @Lenny HB but I've another question! How deep (front to back) is this control board? It's just that the plastic project case I'm looking at is 85x56x24mm. I'm not sure that the 24mm is sufficient.

Bother - sorry, I've just remembered that this was for your old motorhome. Can you recall roughly how deep it was?
 
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Lenny HB

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Oct 18, 2007
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Sorry @Lenny HB but I've another question! How deep (front to back) is this control board? It's just that the plastic project case I'm looking at is 85x56x24mm. I'm not sure that the 24mm is sufficient.

Bother - sorry, I've just remembered that this was for your old motorhome. Can you recall roughly how deep it was?
Just used one for my internal fridge fan approx 48 x 44 x 22 it gives dimensions on eBay link.

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melkaren

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Oct 30, 2016
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I had recently considered fitting fans to the fridge vent, however whilst touring France last year, we were camped next to a French couple and I noticed that they had removed their fridge vents, later in the day we got chatting to them and it transpired he was a refrigeration engineer in the Champagne industry, I asked him why he had done that and my idea of fitting fans, he informed me that just removing the vents when stationary was far more effective than fans, and he in the course of his work done much research and tests on both methods, hence why he had just removed the vents...I emulated his method, the rest of last summer we had no issues with a 'warm' fridge and we are currently in Croatia where daily temperatures are in the mid 30's...the wine and beer are wonderfully chilled...

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Lenny HB

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Oct 18, 2007
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I had recently considered fitting fans to the fridge vent, however whilst touring France last year, we were camped next to a French couple and I noticed that they had removed their fridge vents, later in the day we got chatting to them and it transpired he was a refrigeration engineer in the Champagne industry, I asked him why he had done that and my idea of fitting fans, he informed me that just removing the vents when stationary was far more effective than fans, and he in the course of his work done much research and tests on both methods, hence why he had just removed the vents...I emulated his method, the rest of last summer we had no issues with a 'warm' fridge and we are currently in Croatia where daily temperatures are in the mid 30's...the wine and beer are wonderfully chilled...
Yes but those vent clips break easily (I've broken them in the past) and the vents are expensive also can be painfull on the fingers. Much easier to fit fans and forget no messing about taking vents out every time you stop.
 
Aug 6, 2013
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I don't really understand the need for switches or adjustable controllers. The switching temperature isn't critical (just error on the side of early switch on) and only needs to ensure the fan doesn't run at night. Fixed sensors are cheap and wiring is simply. I use one of these.



I can't remember what switching temperature I chose.
 

Lenny HB

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I don't really understand the need for switches or adjustable controllers. The switching temperature isn't critical (just error on the side of early switch on) and only needs to ensure the fan doesn't run at night. Fixed sensors are cheap and wiring is simply. I use one of these.



I can't remember what switching temperature I chose.
Used them in the past on caravans but never had any luck with them on the big fridge freezer uints tried variuos temraturers.. The hysterisis far too wide, the 40 deg ones don't normally switch off until the temperature drops below 25 deg so the fans are running permantly.

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Aug 6, 2013
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Used them in the past on caravans but never had any luck with them on the big fridge freezer uints tried variuos temraturers.. The hysterisis far too wide, the 40 deg ones don't normally switch off until the temperature drops below 25 deg so the fans are running permantly.
You're quite correct - I've been looking for something better for a while although I'd still prefer a simple 2-wire device.
 
Dec 11, 2011
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@Lenny HB - sorry to bother you but I'm playing with the temperature controller and I don't think it's working!

What I have done is:
a) connected the power to the +12v and the Gnd terminals.
b) connected the black & blue leads from the fan to K0 and K1
c) set the threshold temp to 26 deg and saved it
d) held the temp sensor and watched the displayed temp increase. When it gets to 28 deg (which, I assume, is the set temp plus the default 2 deg 'backlash' value) the LED to the right of the display comes on BUT there is no voltage across K0/K1 so nothing happens!
e) when I stop holding the temp sensor the displayed temp starts to fall and at 26 deg the LED light goes out - still no change in voltage across K0/K1

Can you remember back to when you used this circuit? Am I doing something wrong or is the board not working properly?

Thanks,
Bill

P.s. whoops! I now understand! It's just closing a switch and not sending power anywhere! I gave to provide the power source separately !!

20170711_132259[1].jpg
 
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Two on Tour

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I think it's likely that your controller is switching the 12 volts across from the 12 volt input on the 4 way terminal block to either K0 or K1 or both.
To test, check for 12 volts between GND and K0 when the LED is off and there should be no voltage and the the same (between GND and K0) when the LED is lit and there should be 12 volt.
If this is the case then I can tell you how to wire it.

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Lenny HB

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K0 & K1 are just a pair of normally open relay contacts so you have to jumper power to to one side, also yellow is the fan positive.

upload_2017-7-11_14-32-55.png
 
Dec 11, 2011
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I think it's likely that your controller is switching the 12 volts across from the 12 volt input on the 4 way terminal block to either K0 or K1 or both.
To test, check for 12 volts between GND and K0 when the LED is off and there should be no voltage and the the same (between GND and K0) when the LED is lit and there should be 12 volt.
Paul,
I'd checked that but the answer is that its not switching the 12v anywhere - it's merely closing the connection between K0 and K1. I have to do as @lunarman says and loop the +12v to K1.
My next puzzle is to work out which of the 4 fan wires (blue, black, yellow, green) are the right pair to provide the power to. I had assumed for some unknown reason it was blue & black but apparently (from a post by @Lenny HB ) it may be black & yellow! Which @Lenny HB has just confirmed! Thanks!

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lunarman

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@Bill_OR Can you program the controller for a cooling or heating load. Only reading your post and comparing it with the ebay description it appears that it wont work as required.

You say that as the temperature increased the indicator led lit showing that the relay operated. The ebay description say that contacts are closed when the led is off. So with the led showing when will indicate that the contacts are open. This is what is needed for a heating load, what is needed in this case is a cooling load with the contact closing as the temperature increases.
If you can tell the controller to operate in either mode then no problem. Can you confirm before I embark on the same modification

John
 

Lenny HB

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The default mode is cooling, relay contacts open until set temperature is reached, then they close. I think the hysterisis is set at 2 deg by default which is about right.

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Two on Tour

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If the default mode is cooling on the controller, it will complicate things a little but the handy little relays have a set of NO and NC contacts and the temp controller circuit can be used to switch the controller operation around to heating mode.

handy.jpg
 

Lenny HB

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Oct 18, 2007
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If the default mode is cooling on the controller, it will complicate things a little but the handy little relays have a set of NO and NC contacts and the temp controller circuit can be used to switch the controller operation around to heating mode.

View attachment 173352
You trying to confuse the poor man.:ROFLMAO:
 

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