Fiat Ducato Dpf Sensor (2 Viewers)
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CardiffMH
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- Aug 5, 2018
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Well today i changed the sensor which made the error code change to 'intermittent' on the ecu (presumably because the new sensor started sending pressure readings). Cleared the codes, ran the new sensor ecu process, all seems good.
Thanks for the pointers!
Thanks for the pointers!
tonka
LIFE MEMBER
Thanks on the feedback.
If you need more help looks like you need to subscribe. £15 for a year..
money well spent, I think you just had that value on this thread alone.
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Antony Powell
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- Aug 26, 2018
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Hi guys just joined and read this thread...
I am a mechanic by trade and the general impression I get is that many of you seem to think that once a DPF is blocked it's scrap, This isn't the case Companies that I would recommend are members of "The DPF Doctor" network and can chemically clean the filter in situ in a couple of hours. and also repair the cause of the initial blockage.
it is not necessary to remove the filter for soot blockages,, this can be cleaned out on the vehicle, Ash is a different matter but takes hundreds of thousands of miles to build up enough ash to block the filter, it can then be removed and washed out, the filter should then be reusable for many more miles.
Beware the cheap chemicals from the supermarket they can destroy the filter at great cost if used incorrectly - people overdose thinking it will work better
this type of chemical increases the temperature in the DPF to encourage a better burn but can overheat and destroy the filter or even set fire to the vehicle.......
the proper trade only stuff cleans chemically without excess heat.
Beware companies that use Brick acid, coca cola etc it's not designed for the job and causes damage to the DPF's very thin reactive coating, it may work initially but will cause issues long term
Beware aftermarket parts -
Sensors - usually cheap manufacture and don't last - as much as I hate paying dealer prices it's dealer only for me on these just seen too many fail.
DFPF's - all aftermarket one's I've seen are of a lower quality, they may pass the tests when new but have a smaller internal filter (monolith) than new dealer and again don't last.
Beware too many forced regeneration's
A forced regeneration is just that FORCED you wouldn't like to be forced to do anything and your engine doesn't like it either, The only way to truly do a regeneration is to do it "passively" as intended whilst driving on the road,
Most handbooks will tell you the correct speed, revs, gear, distance and time to ensure a proper regeneration takes place.
Thrashing it like you stole it will only do harm not good !!!
and repeated regeneration's weakens the engine oil watering it down with un-burnt fuel, risking the engine running away on the oil when it gets too thin or level too high
Hope you all find this information useful
Happy Motor-homing
Tony
I am a mechanic by trade and the general impression I get is that many of you seem to think that once a DPF is blocked it's scrap, This isn't the case Companies that I would recommend are members of "The DPF Doctor" network and can chemically clean the filter in situ in a couple of hours. and also repair the cause of the initial blockage.
it is not necessary to remove the filter for soot blockages,, this can be cleaned out on the vehicle, Ash is a different matter but takes hundreds of thousands of miles to build up enough ash to block the filter, it can then be removed and washed out, the filter should then be reusable for many more miles.
Beware the cheap chemicals from the supermarket they can destroy the filter at great cost if used incorrectly - people overdose thinking it will work better
this type of chemical increases the temperature in the DPF to encourage a better burn but can overheat and destroy the filter or even set fire to the vehicle.......
the proper trade only stuff cleans chemically without excess heat.
Beware companies that use Brick acid, coca cola etc it's not designed for the job and causes damage to the DPF's very thin reactive coating, it may work initially but will cause issues long term
Beware aftermarket parts -
Sensors - usually cheap manufacture and don't last - as much as I hate paying dealer prices it's dealer only for me on these just seen too many fail.
DFPF's - all aftermarket one's I've seen are of a lower quality, they may pass the tests when new but have a smaller internal filter (monolith) than new dealer and again don't last.
Beware too many forced regeneration's
A forced regeneration is just that FORCED you wouldn't like to be forced to do anything and your engine doesn't like it either, The only way to truly do a regeneration is to do it "passively" as intended whilst driving on the road,
Most handbooks will tell you the correct speed, revs, gear, distance and time to ensure a proper regeneration takes place.
Thrashing it like you stole it will only do harm not good !!!
and repeated regeneration's weakens the engine oil watering it down with un-burnt fuel, risking the engine running away on the oil when it gets too thin or level too high
Hope you all find this information useful
Happy Motor-homing
Tony
C
Chockswahay
Deleted User
Useful info Tony, thank you. As a matter of interest what would YOU do to avoid all this grief ?
Ivory55
Free Member
Buy an older motor. Haha
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Antony Powell
Free Member
- Aug 26, 2018
- 2
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- Funster No
- 55,848
In an Ideal world By a brand new older pre-electronic vehicle
But in reality
1) Buy a good quality vehicle and keep it serviced on time
2) Get any repairs done promptly
3) Find a decent mechanic you can trust and then trust him to do his job. (The dealer is not always the best option and any servicing can be done by any VAT registered garage using the correct parts without affecting the warranty, under European law)
4) Only use quality parts especially on anything electronic or electronic related (just because it looks the same does't mean it is the same)
5) Ensure when serviced a quality low ash oil is used and do oil changes early.
6) Spend time lubricating / cleaning and polishing anything and everything including underneath the vehicle if you can.
7) When possible store Motor-homes indoors or undercover
8) Follow the manufacturers guidelines on DPF regeneration journeys (if you use it daily to do short runs, take it on a motorway run at least once a fortnight)
9) Use a DPF cleaning assister product from the likes of JLM Lubricants (the only ones I would personally recommend) these reduce the temperature required to regenerate the DPF and assist in the process.
10) Don't listen to the google experts in the local pub, When something goes wrong consult a specialist don't guess at what it may be, find out and fix it.
Tony
But in reality
1) Buy a good quality vehicle and keep it serviced on time
2) Get any repairs done promptly
3) Find a decent mechanic you can trust and then trust him to do his job. (The dealer is not always the best option and any servicing can be done by any VAT registered garage using the correct parts without affecting the warranty, under European law)
4) Only use quality parts especially on anything electronic or electronic related (just because it looks the same does't mean it is the same)
5) Ensure when serviced a quality low ash oil is used and do oil changes early.
6) Spend time lubricating / cleaning and polishing anything and everything including underneath the vehicle if you can.
7) When possible store Motor-homes indoors or undercover
8) Follow the manufacturers guidelines on DPF regeneration journeys (if you use it daily to do short runs, take it on a motorway run at least once a fortnight)
9) Use a DPF cleaning assister product from the likes of JLM Lubricants (the only ones I would personally recommend) these reduce the temperature required to regenerate the DPF and assist in the process.
10) Don't listen to the google experts in the local pub, When something goes wrong consult a specialist don't guess at what it may be, find out and fix it.
Tony
Some 'interesting' comments on this thread.
Anyhow @CardiffMH any issues post sensor replacement?
Looks like the new sensor I fitted to my Ducato already has issues, intermittently lighting the MIL on engine on. Can reset the fault and the diagnostics shows it is reading something sensible but obviously this gets boring.
Unless I can find details regarding the supposed Bosch sensor which can be fitted think I'll have to try another sensor from Fiat directly.
Anyhow @CardiffMH any issues post sensor replacement?
Looks like the new sensor I fitted to my Ducato already has issues, intermittently lighting the MIL on engine on. Can reset the fault and the diagnostics shows it is reading something sensible but obviously this gets boring.
Unless I can find details regarding the supposed Bosch sensor which can be fitted think I'll have to try another sensor from Fiat directly.
tonka
LIFE MEMBER
@CardiffMH is now a "read only" member (name is in black) so wont reply.. Looks like they had their 5 free posts, got some free info and left..
I see your location is Midlands, just for reference my issue was sorted by a firm in Brownhills....
https://www.fitch-autos.co.uk/
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tonka
LIFE MEMBER
Touch wood mine has been fine.
However not done anywhere near the mileage i used to over the past few years. when I had the problem I never " spared the horses" and did almost 30k in first 2 years so was surprised to have the problems as they always associate it with low miles and trundling along.
Good info, maybe a genuine fiat / kavlico part is the way forward.
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- Jan 11, 2010
- 2,747
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- MH
- Auto-trail
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- Well that`s our 13th year & still loving it.
We had the DPF filter problem a couple of years ago, the Fiat main dealer was useless in their diagnostics.
It was clear that the way the vehicle with only 12000 miles on the clock used mostly for motorways journeys that the filter wouldn't be blocked, pointing to a faulty sensor, the main dealer wanted silly money to sort the problem out.
We bought secondhand genuine fiat sensors cost £65, and voila problem sorted.
It was clear that the way the vehicle with only 12000 miles on the clock used mostly for motorways journeys that the filter wouldn't be blocked, pointing to a faulty sensor, the main dealer wanted silly money to sort the problem out.
We bought secondhand genuine fiat sensors cost £65, and voila problem sorted.
Bonio
Free Member
Had this problem three years ago when van was just out of warranty, however fiat agreed to pay for replacement sensor and fitting of it although I had to pay for the diagnostic test before fiat would agree that the problem was a defective sensor. I seems that this was a known fault on Euro 5 engines. No problems since then though as I tend to do most travelling on French and Italian motorways
I have a new 2018 ducato euro 6 multijet2 (the no adblue engine).
This DPF issue was a concern of mine when choosing the vehicle.
I "think" I read an authorative report earlier in the year about the engine management triggering a DPF cleaning cycle (higher revs) if it determines it is needed.
Have I wrongly remembered this?
This DPF issue was a concern of mine when choosing the vehicle.
I "think" I read an authorative report earlier in the year about the engine management triggering a DPF cleaning cycle (higher revs) if it determines it is needed.
Have I wrongly remembered this?
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Replaced the second failed sensor with a third unit. Purchased from ebay UK and kavlico branded - all good thus far. The price for the sensor from Fiat seems somewhat steep.
Not clear the cause of the sensor failure is related to driving style. Could just be a poor design.
@NickB once the engine ecu determines the DPF is 'full' (using the DPF delta pressure sensor and in all likelihood internal calculations) a regeneration will be triggered. This would occur at higher engine load and vehicle speed, for example when cruising on the motorway. Hence when diesel vehicles which are only driven in urban settings at low speed the DPF can become blocked - the conditions for regen are never met.
Not clear the cause of the sensor failure is related to driving style. Could just be a poor design.
@NickB once the engine ecu determines the DPF is 'full' (using the DPF delta pressure sensor and in all likelihood internal calculations) a regeneration will be triggered. This would occur at higher engine load and vehicle speed, for example when cruising on the motorway. Hence when diesel vehicles which are only driven in urban settings at low speed the DPF can become blocked - the conditions for regen are never met.
The first and second sensors you replaced were they the delta pressure sensor you mentioned?
What's the practical angle, is it easy to get at and replace or it out of the reach of a relatively competent DIY'r.
I found a youtube video showing the part but not one showing where it's located.
What's the practical angle, is it easy to get at and replace or it out of the reach of a relatively competent DIY'r.
I found a youtube video showing the part but not one showing where it's located.
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Last edited:
Started our return journey on Monday As soon as the engine started display said "check engine" and the engine block symbol lit Amber. Phoned A A and tech chap rang me and said it was a sensor issue and should be OK to drive. The drive home was unaventful. A mechanic friend plugged his diagnostic machine into it and found clogging dpf. I did a drive at high reves to burn it off but problem still not gone away.
Yesterday morning van started in limp mode. AA attended but after clearing codes they reappeared. He tried to do a regen but it wouldn't. He was puzzled as the soot content was low.
Luckily I still have a week of the warranty supplied by dealer left and they have it booked in for next week.
It is a Fiat 2.3 and has 16,500 on the clock.
Yesterday morning van started in limp mode. AA attended but after clearing codes they reappeared. He tried to do a regen but it wouldn't. He was puzzled as the soot content was low.
Luckily I still have a week of the warranty supplied by dealer left and they have it booked in for next week.
It is a Fiat 2.3 and has 16,500 on the clock.
Yes that's my e562. The only warning light that illuminates is the engine block symbol. And digital message saying check engine
Not sure if I have dpf warning light
Not sure if I have dpf warning light
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It's academic really because it'll be fixed under warranty.
The Dpf warning light on Ducato shows a small amber grid with cloud puff going through.
It illuminates when the key is turned and goes off when the engine starts if everything is fine.
The Dpf warning light on Ducato shows a small amber grid with cloud puff going through.
It illuminates when the key is turned and goes off when the engine starts if everything is fine.
I've got that one! It goes out when engine starts, engine block light remains on.
tuscancouple
Free Member
Our Fiat PVC is 8 months old, 2700 miles. Yesterday engine block check came on whilst doing steady 70mph on the motorway. Seemed to loose power but kept going. On contacting local Fiat Professional dealer it's now booked in to have this recall no. 6172 fitted:
Fiat has recalled the 2.3-litre diesel Ducato van over concerns the intercooler sleeve could come loose from the throttle body. The manufacturer says if the condition occurs, the engine warning light will illuminate and drivers will experience a loss of power.
Hopefully it will fix it as we're off on a 3000 mile trip around Europe in a few weeks
Be nice if they told you about the recall, rather than me finding out about it!
Mick
Fiat has recalled the 2.3-litre diesel Ducato van over concerns the intercooler sleeve could come loose from the throttle body. The manufacturer says if the condition occurs, the engine warning light will illuminate and drivers will experience a loss of power.
Hopefully it will fix it as we're off on a 3000 mile trip around Europe in a few weeks
Be nice if they told you about the recall, rather than me finding out about it!
Mick
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Thanks Mick. Perhaps it doesn't apply to me as mine is 5 years old.
Have a great trip.
Have a great trip.
From a DPF point; and please excuse me if you already know this or I am stating the obvious... But,in most cases the dpf is not blocked its that "crap" dpf sensor, which is easy to get too and is simple to change. however you need to be able to reset the ECU codes so it is fully back in operation. this too is a simple operation with the correct OBD11 kit.
These sensors are prone to any debris or condensation in the exhaust, which can cause the sensor pipes to become blocked / partially blocked with water. thus causing the sensor to fail completely.
I have drained a few, when i say drained you get a small amount of water in the pipe. The problem is, as soon as the sensor tells the ECU there is a certain level of difference in pressure across the sensor then warning light comes on. it was designed to sense the difference in pressure across the DPF but a number of things can cause this to register when there is little to nil wrong with the dpf.
The problem you can get with continuing to drive for any real distance with this situation is that, as the sensor is now ineffective the engine will not perform any regeneration and so the dpf will become blocked.
sometimes so blocked that even a forced regeneration will not clear the crap, and a new DPF and sensor can be the order of the day.
as we all know the DPF system was developed as a quick fix to meet revised emissions standards ans is a dreadfully design and thought through system.
These sensors are prone to any debris or condensation in the exhaust, which can cause the sensor pipes to become blocked / partially blocked with water. thus causing the sensor to fail completely.
I have drained a few, when i say drained you get a small amount of water in the pipe. The problem is, as soon as the sensor tells the ECU there is a certain level of difference in pressure across the sensor then warning light comes on. it was designed to sense the difference in pressure across the DPF but a number of things can cause this to register when there is little to nil wrong with the dpf.
The problem you can get with continuing to drive for any real distance with this situation is that, as the sensor is now ineffective the engine will not perform any regeneration and so the dpf will become blocked.
sometimes so blocked that even a forced regeneration will not clear the crap, and a new DPF and sensor can be the order of the day.
as we all know the DPF system was developed as a quick fix to meet revised emissions standards ans is a dreadfully design and thought through system.
It does now in Spain. They plug into your diagnostic port and check for any fault codes / dodgy remaps..
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my dpf sensor on my 2015 2.3l 130hp Ducato is still working, touch wood, but the exhaust temperature sensor has now started to indicate faulty. Anyone know the part number?
If i want a part number i always ring the local fiat Professional parts dept and ask them for a price. they ask for chassis or reg number then give me a price. i then ask for the part number and check stock with them, then if its extreme price i thank them and tell them i'll get back.
always been helpful and give me the details.
give it a go nothing to loose and you are sure you get the correct number for your engine / exhaust.
always been helpful and give me the details.
give it a go nothing to loose and you are sure you get the correct number for your engine / exhaust.
OldAgeTravellers
LIFE MEMBER
In France also as mine is over 3,500kg it has to be tested with the trucks and it failed the CT (MOT) yesterday because the engine block light was on and it had two fault codes P2002 & P2454. Stupidly i didn't think to zero them first. I have looked at what I think is the DPF, Large cylinder at the front of the exhaust with thin pipes running from it but the two sensors are different to the picture posted earlier. This is a picture of mine one at the front and one halfway along at the top, the hexagon in the foreground with the black part which is the cable. Any ideas if this could be the problem and how easy they are to get or to find the part number. We have an Iveco dealer near us would they be likely have a similar part? I didn't manage to trace the cables back yet to see what the connector looks like or where it goes as i think it will be a two man job. Does the sensor just disconnect by unscrewing by the hexagon nut as seems obvious? I have never seen any indication of a re-gen
happening although I did a long drive up the motorway in a low gear with high revs but the engine light stayed on.
Steve
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