Fiat Ducato charging problem.

[Mr David]

For sometime now the van doesn't seem to be charging the batteries properly from the engine. The engine is a 2012 3Lt. A new alternator has been fitted and I've checked the earth strap, but still the problem persists. Does anyone have any ideas as to what else I should be checking.
I know that all the batteries, engine and leisure, are in good condition. They recharge and hold charge ok on solar and 230v mains.
Help please.

 

[GeoffnDee]

Have you checked the engine to chassis/body earth strap as well as the battery to chassis/body one?

 

[Mr David]

I've checked the starter battery to chassis strap and also the engine to chassis strap that's hidden below the air filter. Are there any other engine to chassis straps?

 

[XxAnthxX]

So the cab battery doesn’t charge either...have I got that right?

 

[GeoffnDee]

I think that the problem can be with the engine to chassis strap looking good, but not being ok, it may be worth adding another strap to eliminate this possibility ( there may also be a smaller one from the alternator to the engine block.)

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[XxAnthxX]

Try bridging the engine to chassis with a jump lead....then you’ll know if it is a faulty earth strap.

 

[Wagoneer]

You mention a new alternator has been fitted. Presumably the output from the new alternator was tested after installation and found to be operating within acceptable parameters. If so, you should be initially registering a solid 14.4 volt at the starter battery (assuming the 12v operation of the fridge is turned off and the solar disabled).

The alternator on my Fiat 3 litre is rated at 140 amp. I assume the replacement alternator is the same spec as the original.

I have fitted a supplementary earth strap between the engine lifting point and the chassis. I used a 600mm long battery cable from Halfords.

I must admit, despite thorough testing of the positive and negative cabling circuits, my charging of the starter/hab batteries is not good, indicating only 13.5v when fridge and headlights are on. This is monitored whilst driving with a volt meter plugged into the cigarette lighter socket.

I have recently fitted a 30amp B2B which seems to have resolved the problem, giving a solid 14.4v.

Best of luck but first connect a jump lead between engine block and chassis, as mentioned above.

 

[Realist]

As above I’ve had similar issues and called a mobile auto electrician in and after fitting a good quality additional earth strap I now have 14+v where before I only had 12.4v.

As above best option as a quick test is a jump lead and test at main battery with a multimeter for 14.4v or there about.

 

[Wagoneer]

Something else for the OP to consider:

The positive feed from the alternator first goes to the connector block on the starter motor. Because of the front facing location of the starter motor, it's possible that area is covered in road salt/grime. Consequently, there is the potential for power from the alternator tracking to earth or power being lost due to a corroded electrical connection.

The circuit diagram can be found at the bottom of this page (follow route A010/A020/A005/B099/A001 (starter battery). http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/how-does-a-charger-work.php

 

[TerryL]

When the alternator failed on our 07 Ducato the garage we were taken to wouldn't order a replacement until the fitter had identified the correct part. Seems that there were 4 different types it could hace been.

I mention this because as it appears your problems may have started when the alternator was changed I would check that the correct replacement was fitted. I would guess an alternator for a motorhome is more powerful than a delivery van.

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[Mr David]

Thanks to everyone for your advise. We are currently travelling in Germany. I've tried a temporary earthing strap but that has made no difference, so I'm now going to check the wiring from the alternator to starter motor to battery. This I'll do when the weather and our location allows me under the van to work. Thanks all again.

 

[Mr David]

Thanks to Wagoneer for the link to the circuit diagram. I've checked voltages, with the engine running, and get good alternator voltage of 14+ volts at the alternator output also at the starter motor but not so at the starter battery and fuses on the battery. The diagram shows a 'Contact Board' (A005) between the starter motor and battery fuses. Please where exactly and what is this 'contact board' as the cables are not so easy to trace in the engine compartment and under the cab floor.

 

[Mr David]

I've found the 'Contact Board' (A005), it's in the engine compartment under the 'Fuse and Relay Box' and forms the jump start connecting point. With the fuse box cover removed it's then possible to remove the two heavy cables. With these cables removed the plate that forms the jump start connection can be removed. Having done that, any corrosion can then be removed from the two connection points and cable terminals. On mine there was tarnish on these connections and I'm hoping that was the cause of my poor charging. My tests seem to indicate a solution but at the moment my batteries are fully charged so time will tell.

 

[Mr David]

Further to my last post, cleaning these two cable ends and the connecting plate has helped but not completely cured the problem. So I've Investigated further and found tarnish/corrosion on the two cable ends on the starter motor. These connect the alternator to the jumpstart point, via the start motor, and then to the engine battery. These two cable ends are in the form of two oblong plates with a hole in the end that sits in a plastic cover and is bolted to the starter motor. Not easy to access but having cleaned them to bright metal, I now have not only better charging but also more enthusiastic performance from the starter motor. Hopefully now the charging system should perform as designed.
Thanks to all who gave advise, it was appreciated.

 

[donkey]

So now you can sell the 'old' alternator on ebay, as there is probably nothing wrong with it.
Geoff

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[Mr David]

So now you can sell the 'old' alternator on ebay, as there is probably nothing wrong with it.
Geoff

It may have been failing but I'll never know as I did an exchange alternater!

 

[Diabalo]

Thanks for the update

 

[bigwood]

Glad to hear you are getting things sorted Dave. The Iveco recovery trucks we had were constantly plagued with corroded connections in the under bonnet area.
One of them had a new starter motor, new alternator and then the headlights were like candles. The electrician couldn’t keep up with tracing faults mostly due to corroded connections.
This was quite a while ago so it proves some faults don’t go away. Why can’t the manufacturer take time to sort these problems.

 

[Realist]

I’ve had the same issues and replacing or adding more straps resolve the issue.

 

[Wagoneer]

Thanks for posting the update re the starter motor connection.

I've been suffering from lethargic starter motor (especially with engine hot) and less than ideal voltage to the starter battery.

Have been intending to strip down the starter motor connection and clean the contacts but the process seems to require the services of a contortionist Anyway, you've given me a renewed endeavour to accomplish this task, following your detailed discription of the work involved. Thanks Will report back in due course.

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[bigwood]

The lights on one of the Iveco trucks caused endless trouble with bad connections.
It had a new switch, new fuse box, new connectors at the lights and earths repaired.
The only way to get lights above candle power was to put relays in the main and dip feed both sides. This put battery voltage at the back of the lights making them bright enough to call headlights.
The dealers said this was simpler than changing the wiring loom. They were not surprised when we swapped to Renaults. I think they were glad to see the back of our trucks.