Faulty Zadi Locker Door lock (1 Viewer)

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Jan 9, 2014
159
218
Scotland
Funster No
29,628
MH
Rapido 803F
Exp
Since 2006
Hi,
I’m looking for help with the Zadi long oval style handle lock which secures the gas locker on my Rapido 803F Motorhome, please. On unlocking the lock, the handle doesn’t pop outwards as expected. It takes a lot of juggling to get it to pop out, which then allows the locker door to be opened.

As a clue, for some time, the key doesn’t insert as easily into this lock as it does with all the other locks. The lock barrel was sprayed with lithium grease recently as part of annual maintenance, but this made no difference. Consequently, I’m thinking that the lock barrel is very much on the way out.

I removed the lock from the door and sprayed the sliding parts that affect the ‘pop out’ action with Thetford toilet seal spray. This seemed to free up the action of the assembly to an extent. However, on refitting the lock back to the door, it still has the same issue.

My questions are;

1. Would replacing just the faulty lock barrel cure this problem, or would a whole new lock assembly including the handle part need to be fitted?

2. In either case, is it possible to order a new lock which will work with my existing keys? (There is a number on my existing keys which, I presume, relates to the ID of the lock?) If so, does anyone know where I could order such a thing?

3. Are there any tips or tricks to changing the lock barrel?

All helpful replies greatly appreciated. Many thanks In advance.
 
Dec 6, 2011
11,935
26,439
South Wales
Funster No
19,136
MH
Coach built Adria
Exp
Since 2007
It’s easy enough to remove the barrel if you buy a removal key snot £10.
I would change the whole unit simply to know it’s sorted.

Yes you can get a barrel for the key but it’s likely to be easier and probably cheaper to buy a set of barrels on flea bay and change all of them.
 
Upvote 0
OP
OP
F
Jan 9, 2014
159
218
Scotland
Funster No
29,628
MH
Rapido 803F
Exp
Since 2006
It’s easy enough to remove the barrel if you buy a removal key snot £10.
I would change the whole unit simply to know it’s sorted.

Yes you can get a barrel for the key but it’s likely to be easier and probably cheaper to buy a set of barrels on flea bay and change all of them.
Nice one, thanks for this advice. 👍
 
Upvote 0
OP
OP
F
Jan 9, 2014
159
218
Scotland
Funster No
29,628
MH
Rapido 803F
Exp
Since 2006
Just an update on this in case it helps anyone in future.

I found the following YouTube video which deals with the exact issue I was having - i.e. the lock handle not automatically popping out when it was unlocked.

Firstly, I have to strongly advise against removing and replacing a circlip (circular spring clip) by the method used in the video. The method shown presents a huge risk to your eyes. Oh Please! buy a set of circlip pliers from Amazon or eBay for around £10. I would also strongly advise using safety goggles. You’ve only got one pair of eyes. Using the right equipment circlip removal and replacement is dead easy, and you’ll have no damaged eyes, sore fingers, nor knackered circlips either - but it’s up to you.

Other than that, I found the video to be really helpful in resolving the issue. I would also advise being careful when sliding the plastic handle part free from the metal tube. The small metal retaining stud springs out when freed from the tube and flies off in all directions.



(Sorry, I’ve no idea how to upload the YouTube video to here, nor how to make the hyperlink live, so you’ll need to copy and paste it into yer browser, I’m afraid.)
(Edit: Hey it seems to upload itself. Superb.)

In my particular case, on dismantling the assembly as shown in the video, I discovered that the whole assembly was gunged up - not with dirt, but by dried out lithium grease that some idiot (i.e. me) had used to lubricate the locks. (Doubtless, I will have issues with the other locks on my van in due course. Can’t wait!) I used WD40 to clean the grease from all of the parts as best I could. I also gave the lock barrel a really good spraying and noticed that this totally resolved the ‘crunchiness’ I had noticed when inserting the key. In the end, I was able to retain the original barrel, which was a real bonus because I still only need the original key for all of the locks. The round plastic body extension of the handle part certainly did need to be sanded down as shown in the video to allow the part to move freely within the metal tube. When reassembling, I used a spray of Thetford toilet seal lubricant to assist with the free movement of the handle’s plastic body extension within the metal outer tube.

One additional thing that I had to do was to really clean the small oblong plastic insert that only fits one way into it’s slots on the handle’s plastic body extension. What was happening with my lock was that this small plastic component was sticking in it’s slots and not sliding freely out of the ‘lock’ position when the key was turned to unlock the mechanism. Because it was sticking in it’s slots, it was not disengaging the plastic body from the metal tube, and this was stopping the handle from springing outwards. Yet another part which had been contaminated by the dastardly solidifying lithium grease. Grrrrr. Anyhoo, it’s all working perfectly now, I’m pleased to say, which alleviates the need for anger management classes.

All this was new to me, although I am sure that many others will be aware of a lot of this. Apologies to the experts but hopefully this might help others who have the same issue.

Happy trails, and may your locks never be sprayed with lithium grease.
 
Upvote 1
Aug 24, 2022
248
680
South Killingholme, Lincolnshire.
Funster No
90,861
MH
Autocruise Gleneagle
Exp
I'm a newbie had a wobbly box when adam was a lad
Just an update on this in case it helps anyone in future.

I found the following YouTube video which deals with the exact issue I was having - i.e. the lock handle not automatically popping out when it was unlocked.

Firstly, I have to strongly advise against removing and replacing a circlip (circular spring clip) by the method used in the video. The method shown presents a huge risk to your eyes. Oh Please! buy a set of circlip pliers from Amazon or eBay for around £10. I would also strongly advise using safety goggles. You’ve only got one pair of eyes. Using the right equipment circlip removal and replacement is dead easy, and you’ll have no damaged eyes, sore fingers, nor knackered circlips either - but it’s up to you.

Other than that, I found the video to be really helpful in resolving the issue. I would also advise being careful when sliding the plastic handle part free from the metal tube. The small metal retaining stud springs out when freed from the tube and flies off in all directions.



(Sorry, I’ve no idea how to upload the YouTube video to here, nor how to make the hyperlink live, so you’ll need to copy and paste it into yer browser, I’m afraid.)
(Edit: Hey it seems to upload itself. Superb.)

In my particular case, on dismantling the assembly as shown in the video, I discovered that the whole assembly was gunged up - not with dirt, but by dried out lithium grease that some idiot (i.e. me) had used to lubricate the locks. (Doubtless, I will have issues with the other locks on my van in due course. Can’t wait!) I used WD40 to clean the grease from all of the parts as best I could. I also gave the lock barrel a really good spraying and noticed that this totally resolved the ‘crunchiness’ I had noticed when inserting the key. In the end, I was able to retain the original barrel, which was a real bonus because I still only need the original key for all of the locks. The round plastic body extension of the handle part certainly did need to be sanded down as shown in the video to allow the part to move freely within the metal tube. When reassembling, I used a spray of Thetford toilet seal lubricant to assist with the free movement of the handle’s plastic body extension within the metal outer tube.

One additional thing that I had to do was to really clean the small oblong plastic insert that only fits one way into it’s slots on the handle’s plastic body extension. What was happening with my lock was that this small plastic component was sticking in it’s slots and not sliding freely out of the ‘lock’ position when the key was turned to unlock the mechanism. Because it was sticking in it’s slots, it was not disengaging the plastic body from the metal tube, and this was stopping the handle from springing outwards. Yet another part which had been contaminated by the dastardly solidifying lithium grease. Grrrrr. Anyhoo, it’s all working perfectly now, I’m pleased to say, which alleviates the need for anger management classes.

All this was new to me, although I am sure that many others will be aware of a lot of this. Apologies to the experts but hopefully this might help others who have the same issue.

Happy trails, and may your locks never be sprayed with lithium grease.


With all locks domestic, Vehicle, whatever I always use powdered graphite even wd40 gums up eventually

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Upvote 0
Feb 27, 2011
15,048
79,459
UK
Funster No
15,452
MH
Self Build
Exp
Since 2005
I have always used Silicon spray and never had an issue. Also good for van/car locks and window slides.
 
Upvote 0

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