Faulty? water pump (1 Viewer)

barracudabus

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Jul 13, 2017
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Since we purchased the van we've never had pumped water and now it's time to get it sorted. Here's what I know / don't know:

- There's definitely water in the cold water tank, I don't know how to tell whether there is water in the hot water tank, and haven't yet braved heating it just in case it is dry and I damage it.
- Whenever I turn on any taps I get a dribble to start and I can hear the motor briefly for 5 - 6 seconds and then the motor starts pulsing on and off (but within acceptable guidelines of the manual) so on for a couple of seconds - off for a couple of seconds. But at this point the dribble becomes more of a drip.
- If I turn on both the bathroom and kitchen sinks I get a more continuous motor and "better" pressure but not what I would expect
- When I first switch on the pump on the control unit there is NO pump noise or action (light is on). I would have expected to hear it priming. Right?
- I have cleaned the filter on the pump inlet
- If I open the dump valve I get continuous pump action and the water appears to drain.

So I believe (rightly or wrongly):

- The pump isn't broken, else it wouldn't work when operating the dump valve
- It MAY be an issue of air lock or needing a prime

I plan on going into the van today to have a look and see what I can do but would appreciate any pointers, advise or even warnings if in fact I'm incorrect and there is another path I should be travelling down.

IMAG0379.jpg

TIA
 

Silver-Fox

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im a not so newbie
Think I would switch the pump off take off the up stream connection. Put a fitting on with a bit of hose attached and into a bucket.
Get someone to turn the pump on and see if you have an acceptable flow rate.

Best first fill the cold tank as well.
 
Feb 16, 2013
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Have you got a kink in a pipe somewhere, or even something in a pipe like a small pebble or something that is acting like a valve on pressure then off again when the pump stops.
Only guessing

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denisejoe

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Just because you can hear the pump doesn't mean it's working. It could be the diaphram needs replacing if you can get one, otherwise a new pump.

Joe
 
Oct 29, 2012
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are you giving it long enough? It takes me 5 minutes or so doing all the taps, hot and cold, to get all the air out after a full drain down.

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barracudabus

barracudabus

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Just because you can hear the pump doesn't mean it's working. It could be the diaphram needs replacing if you can get one, otherwise a new pump.

Joe

I can see the diaphragm pulsating when the pump is on so would assume that it's ok. Like I say just an assumption.
 
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barracudabus

barracudabus

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Have you got a kink in a pipe somewhere, or even something in a pipe like a small pebble or something that is acting like a valve on pressure then off again when the pump stops.
Only guessing

From the pipes I can get access to and see, there's no kink. Can't tell about stone as the pipes aren't transparent.

Trying to rule out other options at the moment as the only place I can't guarantee has no kinks I'll possibly need to remove the sink.
 
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barracudabus

barracudabus

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Think I would switch the pump off take off the up stream connection. Put a fitting on with a bit of hose attached and into a bucket.
Get someone to turn the pump on and see if you have an acceptable flow rate.

Best first fill the cold tank as well.

Good idea, I think that's going to be my next step as it'll rule out any problems further up the chain.

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Feb 16, 2013
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From the pipes I can get access to and see, there's no kink. Can't tell about stone as the pipes aren't transparent.

Trying to rule out other options at the moment as the only place I can't guarantee has no kinks I'll possibly need to remove the sink.
Don't start removing anything on my say so , I was only guessing.:)
I would start at the pump , take the joints off and see if you have pressure there , if so carry on as far as you can till you don't get any pressure, but as others have said air can take some shifting sometimes.
 
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barracudabus

barracudabus

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are you giving it long enough? It takes me 5 minutes or so doing all the taps, hot and cold, to get all the air out after a full drain down.

Another good suggestion, but yes I've given it a long time. I'll definitely give it another go though, once I've tried a pump into the bucket.

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barracudabus

barracudabus

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Have you tried sucking water through from a tap with the pump running?

JJ :cool:

NOT YET :eek: It is already on my to try list but not surprisingly it is low down at the moment.

Might try it after the misses has made me lunch as I'll already have a bad taste in my mouth :giggle:
 
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barracudabus

barracudabus

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Don't start removing anything on my say so , I was only guessing.:)
I would start at the pump , take the joints off and see if you have pressure there , if so carry on as far as you can till you don't get any pressure, but as others have said air can take some shifting sometimes.

No worries chaser, all suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm compiling a list and putting in order, starting at pump and working towards the taps, so removing the fridge will certainly be low down on the list. Though I think I'm going to have to remove it at some point as the sub floor is a little rotten underneath in that area. Who knows it could be connected to a kinked / split pipe leaking :cry:
 

two

Aug 4, 2011
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Yes, start with the pump, then work from there.
If all taps are feeble, any problem must be at or close to the pump (in common pipework).
I suspect the pump but maybe there is a clogged filter.

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Jul 6, 2016
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Suggest you first do a simple check. With water in the fresh water tank and taps closed, turn on the pump and check for any water leaking from underneath the van.

A loose or leaking connection between pump and taps would prevent the system from pressurising properly. The dampness under the fridge could indicate a water leak in this area. If you have a double floor, open up the floor access covers and check for the presence of water.
 
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The above is a good check ! Just make sure there is water in the cold tank shut off all taps and switch on pump. If pump runs for a sec and stops great. leave on and wait as the pump will start up if there is a pressure drop due to a leak. Note: if your drain is open on your boiler your pump will run until all your water is used. Give the pump time to purge any air out of the taps (taps open) when using from empty.
 

sallylillian

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As previously said could be a pierced diaphragm if it's been run dry for a length of time in the past.

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Bart

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If it was me i would make sure water is in the tank then disconnect the outlet hose from the pump exit just before it starts to branch of to the various taps / heater and place this hose into a bucket ( or even better place it inside another hose and direct it outside the motorhome )
Then turn on the power to the pump and you should get a constant flow of water.
If this is the case then place your thumb over the end of the outlet pipe at the pump to build up the pressure and after a second or two the pump should stop once the pressure is built up.
If this works then i would look further down the pipe work to see any potential blockages.
btw ive just looked at the pic of you pump and notice it looks like it is mounted upside down , i have no idea if this would effect the working of it , but i doubt it , but thought i would mention it just incase it does.
 

Sundowners

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Hi
If it were mine--------
I would turn off all taps --------switch pump on, you may or may not get a quick burst from the pump,
If pump is not running constantly turn one tap on a little, pump should give a little burst every few seconds,
Leave it running like this for maybe a minute, turn tap on full----if it seems to run better,
Repeat on all taps, including the hot when all cold seems to be ok,--------one tap open at a time!!!!!!!!
If this makes no difference,--------- it is time to start pulling things apart-------- starting at the easiest!!!
It does sound like an air lock to me???????
Good luck
Nigel,

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two

Aug 4, 2011
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It could even be a NRV that's causing the problem, but we need to perform basic diagnostics first.
 
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barracudabus

barracudabus

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Jul 13, 2017
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Thanks for all your replies it's all sorted now.

We checked the pump at source and without any pipe work it worked perfectly.

We checked a few other points out by taking the pipe off and switching on the pump and in all scenarios the pump worked as expected.

The only time we got no pump was when we used the taps. If we switched them all on however the pump would come on but cycle. Well the taps couldn't all be at fault so it got me thinking that the pump just didn't think it should be working.

So took it off, and a few turns of the pressure adjuster, then a few more in the CORRECT direction, and we got the pump working when the taps were open.

We had to do a few extra turns for the shower to work but all in all quite chuffed.

Thanks everyone for the input your help as always was greatly appreciated.

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pappajohn

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If the pump is cycling on and even if no water appears the pump is working as it should....
ON...
PRESSURISE....
OFF...
TAP OPEN, SLOW PRESSURE DROP...
ON...

and repeat.
If it happens at every tap there's a blockage.
Maybe an isolator valve after the pump but before the branch manifold/splitter to taps and boiler.
If it was the pump diaphragm or sticking valves the pump would run continuously.as it couldn't pressurised the system.

Sorry, just seen your last post
 
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two

Aug 4, 2011
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Thanks for all your replies it's all sorted now.

We checked the pump at source and without any pipe work it worked perfectly.

We checked a few other points out by taking the pipe off and switching on the pump and in all scenarios the pump worked as expected.

The only time we got no pump was when we used the taps. If we switched them all on however the pump would come on but cycle. Well the taps couldn't all be at fault so it got me thinking that the pump just didn't think it should be working.

So took it off, and a few turns of the pressure adjuster, then a few more in the CORRECT direction, and we got the pump working when the taps were open.

We had to do a few extra turns for the shower to work but all in all quite chuffed.

Thanks everyone for the input your help as always was greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback.
Glad it's sorted.

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barracudabus

barracudabus

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Jul 13, 2017
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Which begs the question-------- how was it so far out of adjustment???????

The previous owners of 6 years never used the bathroom and only ever stayed on site never wild camped. So no doubt washed up on site rather than in the van.

Probably a small adjustment back then turned into a big adjustment now.

Glad I stuck to my guns and didn't just order a new pump.
 
Jul 6, 2016
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Glad to hear you managed to fix the problem by increasing the pump pressure.

However, the increase in pressure may be masking a leak between pump and taps. If the pump starts cycling when the taps haven't been turned on for a while, I would suspect a leak in the pipework somewhere between pump and taps.

Best of luck and hope everything is now fine :)
 
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barracudabus

barracudabus

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Jul 13, 2017
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Glad to hear you managed to fix the problem by increasing the pump pressure.

However, the increase in pressure may be masking a leak between pump and taps. If the pump starts cycling when the taps haven't been turned on for a while, I would suspect a leak in the pipework somewhere between pump and taps.

Best of luck and hope everything is now fine :)

My understanding is it's the opposite. The change was not an increase in pump pressure but an adjustment at which pressure (or drop in pressure to be more accurate) the pump switches on.

IE when the tap was open the pump still didn't recognise that the pressure change was enough to start pumping and increase pressure, hence when ALL the taps were on it did finally start pumping.

We'll keep an eye out for leaks though but finally when initially switching on we hear the pump priming for a couple of seconds max which is what we'd expect and then nothing until the tap are on.

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