Extra garage door?

[BouncyBoatFolk]

Have any of you MH owners ever fitted. or had an additional garage door fitted?
Just wondering about the feasibility of this. It would be quite useful asset on the T66 to be able to load the scooter one side and unload out the other.
Regards.
Mike

 

[Podney]

I haven’t,but doubt it’s not possible. What’s in the way? If nowt,and the price is right,go ahead I say.

 

[TheBig1]

Have any of you MH owners ever fitted. or had an additional garage door fitted?
Just wondering about the feasibility of this. It would be quite useful asset on the T66 to be able to load the scooter one side and unload out the other.
Regards.
Mike

sourcing a matching door and frame would be an issue, as not as easy as you think to get. Then you have to ensure that the new opening will not be too near a window leading to splits and cracks. Also will the strength of the body shell be adversely affected?

A smaller locker door can easily be fitted and often is to disguise damaged bodywork. Just a door big enough to load a scooter that would be a problem

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

We have a 1150 x 750 loading door on the off side, a slightly smaller sized door is offered as an option on a new van, so perhaps a conversation with the factory might be the best first place to ask.
Regards.
Mike.

 

[bobandjanie]

Friends of ours had a N & B flair that only had a garage door right at the back, and being a pain when parking and needing to get things from the garage, cut a hole in the side and used the piece he cut out to make the new door. Bob.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Pausim]

My motorhome came standard with one large garage door and a small one opposite. I ordered the optional second full size door. However retro fitting is unlikely to be easy because they make the doors from the cut out from the original hole so they are not likely to have spare doors available. I guess if there are no holes in the existing panel then bobandjanie suggestion is the way to go.

 

[funflair]

We have two garage doors and a scooter and can't see me ever taking the scooter out the opposite door, partly because I have a Rock n Roll clamps for the front wheel which holds it up while I put the straps on, to get in out I just pull it back and down the ramp easy peasy, to go forward would be a right faff.

That said I like the second door for getting the mountain bikes out which are either side of the scooter.

As far as retrofitting a door I think it would be better to put a smaller hatch and keep some integrity in the back of the van, wouldn't help with scooter though.
.
.

 

[nicholsong]

I think one has to check structural integrity when considering a full-size door., especially in constructions where the strength is in the wall panels with no frame. I would check with the builder before going ahead.

Most garages with two doors have one smaller one. There may be a reason for that.

Geoff

 

[Pausim]

Most garages with two doors have one smaller one. There may be a reason for that.

The option for the bigger 2nd garage door on my Carthago does not appear to involve any extra strengthening.

 

[pagey]

mike if you decide to do this ask ricky to price up the cost of the door and frame he has a fairly quick parts supply from sunlight

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

mike if you decide to do this ask ricky to price up the cost of the door and frame he has a fairly quick parts supply from sunlight

Hi.Ricky was my first thought, but it's not something they get involved in. I might try Pullingers, they are also nominated Sunlight dealers.
Structurally I perceive no problem,but it wouldn't take much to reinforce around the square hole with an ally gusset plate.More research and thought needed before breaking out the jig saw .
Mike

 

[pagey]

mine has 2 garage doors there is no reinforcing that i can see but it maybe built into the wall

 

[CazPaul]

We have two garage doors and a scooter and can't see me ever taking the scooter out the opposite door, partly because I have a Rock n Roll clamps for the front wheel which holds it up while I put the straps on, to get in out I just pull it back and down the ramp easy peasy, to go forward would be a right faff.

That said I like the second door for getting the mountain bikes out which are either side of the scooter.

As far as retrofitting a door I think it would be better to put a smaller hatch and keep some integrity in the back of the van, wouldn't help with scooter though.
.
.

So when putting it in Martin, it pushes up the ramps, then do you get in the garage with it and how does it actually secure/keep stable whilst inside?

May look at getting one, are they around 100kg?

 

[funflair]

So when putting it in Martin, it pushes up the ramps, then do you get in the garage with it and how does it actually secure/keep stable whilst inside?

May look at getting one, are they around 100kg?

Just around 100kg depending what you get ours loads easily but I can drive it up the ramp and then walk through with it till the front wheel is in the clamp and then it stands up on it's own, I bolted D rings through the floor and then strap it over the handlebars and the rear grab handles.

.
.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

mine has 2 garage doors there is no reinforcing that i can see but it maybe built into the wall

I wouldn't think the production line has the space for van sides, with and without reinforcing for an extra door. I'd assume it's the same panel that can have a hole punched in it if required.
My Honda wave weighs in at 100kg. When we hired the V66 Sunlight I just rocked the bike up onto it's main stand, then ratchet strapped it down just enough to stop it moving around, and it didn't move a jot. In our own van I would probably put a wearing pad of 15mm rubber under the stand to help it stay in place, and stop the stand worrying a wear patch in the floor.
I have researched some chassis extension struts that bolt up to the original chassis rails under the garage from {Watling Engineers St Albans]. This lifts the carrying capacity to 250kg in the garage, which is a much more useful payload. We also have SVTech looking into having the overall weight allowance to 3850, which should be doable without any brake, tyre, or suspension modifications. I do have the licence that allows this, but in any case I have an old class2 HGV.
Regards.
Mike

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[funflair]

I wouldn't think the production line has the space for van sides, with and without reinforcing for an extra door. I'd assume it's the same panel that can have a hole punched in it if required.
My Honda wave weighs in at 100kg. When we hired the V66 Sunlight I just rocked the bike up onto it's main stand, then ratchet strapped it down just enough to stop it moving around, and it didn't move a jot. In our own van I would probably put a wearing pad of 15mm rubber under the stand to help it stay in place, and stop the stand worrying a wear patch in the floor.
I have researched some chassis extension struts that bolt up to the original chassis rails under the garage from {Watling Engineers St Albans]. This lifts the carrying capacity to 250kg in the garage, which is a much more useful payload. We also have SVTech looking into having the overall weight allowance to 3850, which should be doable without any brake, tyre, or suspension modifications. I do have the licence that allows this, but in any case I have an old class2 HGV.
Regards.
Mike

Centre stand wouldn’t be my first choice because of the point load potentially damaging the floor.
.
.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

Centre stand wouldn’t be my first choice because of the point load potentially damaging the floor.
No, I agree, hence the idea of the 15mm thick rubber pad under the stand, that should take care of that concern.
Mike
.
.

 

[gus-lopez]

Friends of ours had a N & B flair that only had a garage door right at the back, and being a pain when parking and needing to get things from the garage, cut a hole in the side and used the piece he cut out to make the new door. Bob.

I guess if there are no holes in the existing panel then @bobandjanie suggestion is the way to go.

I'm sure when trawling spanish sites that I have seen the frame & door frame complete with hinges but no panel?

 

[pagey]

I wouldn't think the production line has the space for van sides, zay with and without reinforcing for an extra door. I'd assume it's the same panel that can have a hole punched in it if required.
My Honda wave weighs in at 100kg. When we hired the V66 Sunlight I just rocked the bike up onto it's main stand, then ratchet strapped it down just enough to stop it moving around, and it didn't move a jot. In our own van I would probably put a wearing pad of 15mm rubber under the stand to help it stay in place, and stop the stand worrying a wear patch in the floor.
I have researched some chassis extension struts that bolt up to the original chassis rails under the garage from {Watling Engineers St Albans]. This lifts the carrying capacity to 250kg in the garage, which is a much more useful payload. We also have SVTech looking into having the overall weight allowance to 3850, which should be doable without any brake, tyre, or suspension modifications. I do have the licence that allows this, but in any case I have an old class2 HGV.
Regards.
Mike

Hi let me know what sv tech have to say about the weight upgrade as far as i know it will need a tyre change and maybe air i think that 3700k is ok without mods

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

Hi let me know what sv tech have to say about the weight upgrade as far as i know it will need a tyre change and maybe air i think that 3700k is ok without mods

Will do, they will hopefully get back to me this week.
Mike

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

Hi let me know what sv tech have to say about the weight upgrade as far as i know it will need a tyre change and maybe air i think that 3700k is ok without mods

Yes, 3700kg = No physical changes, just need their new compliance plate to confirm the uplift in weight is within the vehicle capability's.
3850KG = Additional air suspension required, and possibly newer heavy duty and slightly wider tyres as well.
4000kg= all the above + uprated coil springs to the front.
So, I'll get a base line figure for my own reference. Then check that baseline with readings obtained on a portable set of weighing scales I recently picked up for a reasonable price.
I can then check the weight when loading up with all the paraphernalia think we'll need to be comfortable, and entertained on the road. We will probably go for the 200kg uplift initially as it poses no issues for me driving licence wise.
Regards.
Mike

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

Oh, P.S. Apparently we now can collect the M.H. this month BUT we can't go anywhere, only home .
The lord giveth and taketh.
Mike

 

[pagey]

Yes, 3700kg = No physical changes, just need their new compliance plate to confirm the uplift in weight is within the vehicle capability's.
3850KG = Additional air suspension required, and possibly newer heavy duty and slightly wider tyres as well.
4000kg= all the above + uprated coil springs to the front.
So, I'll get a base line figure for my own reference. Then check that baseline with readings obtained on a portable set of weighing scales I recently picked up for a reasonable price.
I can then check the weight when loading up with all the paraphernalia think we'll need to be comfortable, and entertained on the road. We will probably go for the 200kg uplift initially as it poses no issues for me driving licence wise.
Regards.
Mike

its what i thought thanks mike

 

[pagey]

Oh, P.S. Apparently we now can collect the M.H. this month BUT we can't go anywhere, only home .
The lord giveth and taketh.
Mike

at least you will be able to have a play with it