External bbq point fitting.

[Duncan Mills]

Hi everyone. After fitting a twin 11kg Gasit system to my Dethleffs Trend last weekend, which was unbelievably simple. I opted for the in locker filling point and the combined automatic changeover and regulator valve, very clever. My next project is the external bbq point. I will buy the Bullfinch one. My question is;
I have an 8mm copper gas pipe that runs after the regulator to the inside of the motorhome. My plan is to put a T piece into the copper pipe which I will connect to the rear of the Bullfinch point. It will be a very short run probably no more than 18 inches. What T piece would you recommend and can the connection be in rubber pipe or the lightweight 8mm thermoplastic that I have left over or does need to be copper?
Many thanks.
Duncan

 

[Wombles]

Bump - can anyone advise?

 

[Wabs]

Unable to help , sorry

 

[ManTheVan]

I’m no gas engineer, but I’d suggest that if you’re tee-ing into a copper line, it would make most sense to use a copper T-piece properly soldered in, for longevity.

 

[Richard n Ann]

I'd use one of these..

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[Landy Andy]

The T piece should be a compression fitting not a solder joint. Also the fitting should be plumbed with pipe not tube. Ideally with an isolation point before the BBQ point. Many motorhomes will run a bigger pipe to their gas manifold, then smaller diameter pipe after the manifold to the individual items.

 

[cmcardle75]

8mm sounds a little small for the main run to the main manifold. Regardless of that, an 8mm equal T, followed by an isolating valve is the way to go, all plumbed in copper, not hose. However, the age old advice is that if you need to ask, should you be doing this?

 

[jollyrodger]

Not forgetting to also fit an isolator switch over inline to bullfinch when fitting

 

[Manic]

When I fitted my Bulfinch bbq point I tee’d into the oven feed and then used 8 mm copper pipe and also fitted a gas isolation tap. All compression fitting.

 

[Odd-no-more]

I’m no gas engineer, but I’d suggest that if you’re tee-ing into a copper line, it would make most sense to use a copper T-piece properly soldered in, for longevity.

Do not use soldered fitting on a motorhome, the vibration can damage them. Use compression fittings and copper pipe.

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[MisterB]

if you have already competently fitted your refillable system, adding an additional connection should be no issue, as others have pointed out, use a compression tee and 8mm copper tube. its usually easier to cut the hole for the filling point, feed the copper tube through the hole, make the connection and then push the whole ensemble back into the hole. try no to use any additional fittings, you can buy and external bending spring to allow you to bend the 8mm copper tube without kinking it - its easy to bend without one, but its also easy to damage it without using a proper bending spring. make sure the bends are gentle bends and not too sharp and as has also been pointed, dont use soldered joints, if you use an external bending spring and select a good route for the pipework, then you shouldnt need any joints other than tghe tee piece and the connection to the external filler itself, though i would also add a gas shut off valve somewhere accessible in the new pipework, which will add a couple of additional joints. depending on the route of the pipework, you might be able to fit a 90 degree shut off valve?

 

[Manic]

When bending by copper pipe I used some washers on a bolt , large washers stop pipe from flattening and small washers do the bend form.


 

[MisterB]

When bending by copper pipe I used some washers on a bolt , large washers stop pipe from flattening and small washers do the bend form.
View attachment 592920

Though you need to be careful re the radius of the bend. Lots of pipe benders use the same principle but also have a 'former' on top and bottom of the pipe being bent, to ensure the pipe doesn't become distorted. You might find an external bending spring to be easier as you can just slide it along the pipework from one end of the job to the other, bending the pipe in situ and then remove it just before your connect your final joint.