Electric Issues fridge stopped working on 12v (1 Viewer)

Jun 15, 2016
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Going mad! First it appears we have an issue with the alternator not charging the battery, we had to call breakdown when after a 2 hour journey, stopping for supplies, the van failed to start. Battery as dead as a dodo! Jump started. Bought new battery, but after return journey of over 2 hours and testing with a meter, battery only partly charged. Whilst testing the battery alternator connections with said meter, we loaded the circuits by running the fridge..fridge worked OK on first test. But on trying again, fridge 12th volt light failed to come on! Tested fridge on mains, ball OK. Checked fuses under bonnet and at the relay under drivers seat. Appeared ok, but changed any way..no joy.. our van is a 1999 Symbol based on Peugeot Boxer Van.
 

pappajohn

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If the alternator has failed it cant trigger the fridge relay which appears to be the case.
It could be alternator brushs and at first can work then not work as the engine is running...
eventually, sooner rather than later, it wont work at all.
 
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hilldweller

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Do this in a logical order.

Turn everything you can, off.

Voltmeter on battery - Volts = ________

Run engine - Volts = ________

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smiffy502000

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does the fridge work on 12 volt when the engine is running? on my van the only time you use 12 volt is when you are traveling, when on site it is mains power or gas
 
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JockandRita

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@Sarahbrightvan. I'm not saying that yours is the same problem, but prior to our alternator burning out, we had the symptoms of several things not working correctly, or not at all. :(
Once the alternator was changed for a new one, all the "gremlin" type faults disappeared, and nothing electrical has gone wrong since. (y)

BTW, our original alternator was a 99 model too. ;)

Good luck,

Jock. :)
 
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Sarahbrightvan
Jun 15, 2016
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does the fridge work on 12 volt when the engine is running? on my van the only time you use 12 volt is when you are traveling, when on site it is mains power or gas
That's the issue. ,know it only works when engines running..did so..then didn't. .no apparent reason..

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Sarahbrightvan
Jun 15, 2016
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Do this in a logical order.

Turn everything you can, off.

Voltmeter on battery - Volts = ________

Run engine - Volts = ________

Voltmeter on battery = 11.99
Run engine = 12.3

Not good. Checked voltage drop on neutral lead from battery live to Alternator volts = -2.3 also not good. .suggests alternator problem, but now 12 v fridge not operating when engine running..was..go to check on one thing.,end up with another..
 
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hilldweller

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Checked voltage drop on neutral lead from battery live to Alternator volts = -2.3 also not good.

12.3 on battery + 2.3 = 14.6 which is just what the alternator should put out.

Have you got jumper leads ? If so use the black one from Batt Negative ( not neutral, that only in mains ) to the engine block.

Run again and see if you get 14.6V across the battery terminals, if so it's the ground lead from battery to engine block had given up, quite common. This could be two leads, from batt neg to the chassis and a second from another part of the chassis to the engine block.

On mine, the cable from chassis to engine block is underneath and water damage finished it off.

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Sarahbrightvan
Jun 15, 2016
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12.3 on battery + 2.3 = 14.6 which is just what the alternator should put out.

Have you got jumper leads ? If so use the black one from Batt Negative ( not neutral, that only in mains ) to the engine block.

Run again and see if you get 14.6V across the battery terminals, if so it's the ground lead from battery to engine block had given up, quite common. This could be two leads, from batt neg to the chassis and a second from another part of the chassis to the engine block.

On mine, the cable from chassis to engine block is underneath and water damage finished it off.

Sorry if I'm being dense here..do you mean to run the test withe the meter on the battery terminals at the same time as connecting the jump lead from negative to engine block? Should we also have engine running or not? Done so many meter readings today..getting confused..knew I should have taken physics at school...
 
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Bobby22

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Sorry if I'm being dense here..do you mean to run the test withe the meter on the battery terminals at the same time as connecting the jump lead from negative to engine block? Should we also have engine running or not? Done so many meter readings today..getting confused..knew I should have taken physics at school...
He means to check your earth. Put your jumper lead between batt - neg and engine block........good connection. Start vehicle and check voltage between pos+ and neg- on batt.
If your reading changes up to 14.6 volts it could mean that your engine block earth terminal has a fault. (As his was)

Hope this helps.
 
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hilldweller

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Sorry if I'm being dense here..do you mean to run the test withe the meter on the battery terminals at the same time as connecting the jump lead from negative to engine block? Should we also have engine running or not?..

Physics was my best subject !

Yes. Connect the jump lead from Batt Neg to engine block.
Meter across battery terminals ( so neg on the jump lead or next to it )
Run engine and hope you see 14.5V

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pappajohn

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Physics was my best subject !

Yes. Connect the jump lead from Batt Neg to engine block.
Meter across battery terminals ( so neg on the jump lead or next to it )
Run engine and hope you see 14.5V
The speedo cable, clutch cable and injector pump cable will provided a good enough earth once the engine is running even if the engine earth strap has broken.

Simply an Alternator failure
 
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Sarahbrightvan
Jun 15, 2016
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Hi guys. Bernie has just informed me that he removed the earth strap yesterday and gave it a good clean. .so I guess that sorts that question. Looks like we can't put it off any longer and will have to accept our own first diagnosis. .bloody alternator. .hey hoe..
This is like going back to when we were first married. .cheap bangers and a Haynes manual..spent many a weekend sitting on the wing of our old mark 2 Cortina , legs dangling in the engine bay...so much space under the bonnets back then.
 
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dave newell

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Which engine do you have? The 2.8 has the alternator at the rear and difficult to access but the 2.0 litre diesel has it low down at the front.

D.

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Sarahbrightvan
Jun 15, 2016
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Which engine do you have? The 2.8 has the alternator at the rear and difficult to access but the 2.0 litre diesel has it low down at the front.

D.
We have the 2 litre petrol engine. Bernie will remove the offending alternator later today. It's low down, but at the front. Managed to source a new one on ebay for £89
 
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Sarahbrightvan
Jun 15, 2016
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Well everyone...thanks for all your input. After having fitted a new alternator yesterday, today Bernie replaced a fully charged van battery and re-tested all the ground leads, having found yet another one that connected from the van body to the gearbox and.... hey presto. .not only was the battery charging, but the 12v function on the fridge worked again too. ..so relieved. It has cost us just over £170 to replace both the battery and alternator, but dread to think what it would have cost in labour had we had to book it into the garage.
 
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