EDACOA Inverter

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I am looking at buying a 1000w 12v EDACOA inverter to charge a battery off an electric bike. The transformer is rated at 1,2amps so if I have worked it out correctly with a 130amh leisure battery I could in theory charge the bike battery for around 130hrs. I know this is not realistic as the inverter has all of the safety functions to prevent this happening. The leisure battery is also connected to a 100w solar panel so will receive some charge. What I would like to know is has any body come across this make or can you recommend an inverter for around the £100/50 mark.
 
Edecoa or Giandel Inverters are very good. I have bought a few of them.
 
I am looking at buying a 1000w 12v EDACOA inverter to charge a battery off an electric bike. The transformer is rated at 1,2amps so if I have worked it out correctly with a 130amh leisure battery I could in theory charge the bike battery for around 130hrs.
Unfortunately the 1.2 amps is on the 240 volt side of the inverter, and the 130 amp-hours refers to the 12V side of the inverter. To do the maths, you need to know that the power (watts) is the same on both sides. At any point, watts = volts x amps. So to output 1.2 amps at 240 volts (240 x 1.2 = 288 watts), on the 12V input it will require 288/12 = 24 amps. The voltage is 240/12 = 20 times less, but the amps is 20 times more, to keep the power the same.

However things aren't as bad as that. Does the 'transformer' have its output volts and amps on the label? Often it's something like 36V and 4 amps, which is 144 watts. To output 144 watts would require an input of 144/12 = 12 amps at 12V. That's a bit more reasonable.

The 1.2 amps is probably the 'inrush current',a short burst of current when the power is first connected. After a fraction of a second, it will settle down to a lower steady current.

Usually the bike battery capacity is quoted in watt-hours, and will probably be about 300 watt-hours. Translated into 12v battery capacity it's 300/12 = 25 amp-hours from your 12V battery.

So from your leisure battery it will draw 12 amps, until it has used 25 amp-hours, so that will take 25/12 = 2.1 hours. You'll need to look on the labels for the actual figures for your charger and battery, but that's how to do the calculations.
 
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Unfortunately the 1.2 amps is on the 240 volt side of the inverter, and the 130 amp-hours refers to the 12V side of the inverter. To do the maths, you need to know that the power (watts) is the same on both sides. At any point, watts = volts x amps. So to output 1.2 amps at 240 volts (240 x 1.2 = 288 watts), on the 12V input it will require 288/12 = 24 amps. The voltage is 240/12 = 20 times less, but the amps is 20 times more, to keep the power the same.

However things aren't as bad as that. Does the 'transformer' have its output volts and amps on the label? Often it's something like 36V and 4 amps, which is 144 watts. To output 144 watts would require an input of 144/12 = 12 amps at 12V. That's a bit more reasonable.

The 1.2 amps is probably the 'inrush current',a short burst of current when the power is first connected. After a fraction of a second, it will settle down to a lower steady current.

Usually the bike battery capacity is quoted in watt-hours, and will probably be about 300 watt-hours. Translated into 12v battery capacity it's 300/12 = 25 amp-hours from your 12V battery.

So from your leisure battery it will draw 12 amps, until it has used 25 amp-hours, so that will take 25/12 = 2.1 hours. You'll need to look on the labels for the actual figures for your charger and battery, but that's how to do the calculations.
I cannot offer anything like whats written above, however what I can add is the following...we use this type of inverter to charge our eBike batteries whilst driving between stops.
It works well charging 2 Bosch batteries in about 3 hours, during the summer one battery has been charged whilst stationary, supported by a 150w solar panel via a 115amh leisure battery.
 
Wow amazing yes it does output is 36v 2amps so I will get my calculator out. Thank you both for your replies they are much appreciated, I will order one today:smiley:(y)

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If you only need 2 amps at 36 volts, then you don't need anything like as big as a 1000W inverter. Unless you also want to run other equipment with a higher draw, then something in the 300W area will be more than adequate.
 
We charge 2 off 500watt hour ebikes simultaneously with 1 off 4 amp, 36v charger (consumption 160 watts) plus a 2 amp 36v charger (80 watts).

We use a 300watt pure sine wave inverter.
The current draw is around 20 amps from our leisure batteries.
All this information is given by my battery monitor.

The only other use for our inverter is to charge a very few things not charged using 12v
Jon
 
Andycap its probably also worth mentioning that if your leisure battery is lead/acid, then it is recommended that you don't ever run it less than 50% as it damages the battery and affects its longevity...

This means your battery is only useful for 65AH not the full 130AH

Other types of batteries have their own Depth of Discharge (DOD) "rules"...
 
Hi
Although I only intend to charge my ebike battery I was thinking a larger inverter just in case I needed to use it for something else. On saying that I might drop it down to a 500w. Thanks for the information. (y)
 
When you've got your head round all this, there's another consideration - the no-load current. An inverter will draw a small current even when nothing is plugged in to the 240V socket. Some inverters have a switch to switch off the 240V side, which sometimes can be mounted remotely for convenience.

However even when this switch is off, the inverter still draws a small current from the battery. It's a good idea to have a switch that cuts 12V power to the inverter input.

Also small inverters have lower no-load current than larger ones, and one thing you are paying for when you get a more expensive inverter is a lower no-load current. Worth checking the details in the specifications.

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I think you need to ask, why is this brand so much cheaper than Ring, Durite, Sterling etc?
I would only buy a decent brand in an inverter as it has the potential to burn your van down or electrocute you.
 
Just when you thought you had it sorted, there's another consideration - Pure Sine Wave or Modified Sine Wave. The output is 240V, but it's AC (= alternating current). That means is changes from +240 to -240 and back, 50 times a second. Your house mains is a nice smooth wave, and a PSW inverter replicates this.

Cheaper inverters send out a squarer, more jagged wave, which is called 'modified sine wave', and various other terms. Dumb devices like heaters, kettles, drills etc are quite OK with this. Some appliances, especially those with electronics in them, depend on a nice smooth wave for their function, and are badly affected by MSW inverters.

I don't know for sure how a bike battery charger will react, but I'd think you need a PSW type, which is - you guessed it - more expensive than an MSW type.
 
I read loads of really crap reviews of Edecoa. There's reviews on YouTube and all over Google. I would avoid them.
 
Will it not be +120 to -120v RMS? ?

Edit: no I think you're right ? ignore me
You're right in that +240 to -240 is an oversimplification. The peak voltages are about +350 to -350V, and the RMS value (the 'average equivalent value') is 240V. 240 x (square root of 2) is about 350.

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well folks thank you all for the information and advice. I have made my mind up today and purchased a 12-500 phoenix inverter to be delivered tomorrow. If the weather holds off I might have a go at installing it. :dance2:
 
Occasional use will be fine with cheaper inverters.
Ring or Durite certainly aren’t one of the better ones.
Victron are probably right up there though.
 

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