Ducato X290 Wiring

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Is anybody out there familiar with wiring on the latest Ducato model?

My 2018 Weinsberg Carabus was supplied with the 12v power supply to the fridge missing. I took it back to the supplying dealer who fitted a new supply under warranty. The fridge now works on 12v, but it isn’t wired via a relay, so if I forget to switch the supply I end up with a flat battery! I can’t be bothered to go back to the dealer again as it is a 500+ mile round trip. Having contacted the dealer, I’m told the new fridge supply is patched into the vehicle wiring behind the cover on the driver’s side B post. My question is, does anybody know if there is an ignition switched circuit in that area that I can use to power the relay, or will I need to go all the way back to the dashboard? I don’t want any of the wiring to be visible.
 
Pin 2 (centre of top row) on the 15-pin multi connector in the conversion socket (behind the RH B-post trim panel) is a simulated D+ pull to earth connection. It is operated by the body computer and makes an earth connection with the engine running. It is only designed to operate as a switching connection for a relay, but should suit your purpose.

Pin 13 on the same connector also provides a 600mA ignition switched positive feed that can be used to feed the switch side of up to 2 relays. I've used the pin 13 output on my van to switch a relay simulating a D+ trigger to a B2B charger, connecting the opposing terminal of the relay to pin 2.

There is a document describing the connector in Fiat eLearn, but the pin-outs for the 15-pin connector are wrong in that document.

The one I've attached is from FCA US, hence the reference to the Ram Promaster, but it's description is correct for the Ducato X290 also.

Edit: Forgot to add, the conversion side 15-pin bare plug should already be fitted, as it is included in the factory delivery scope when the conversion socket is present. The connection pins are Tyco as mentioned in the document and can be obtained on eBay.
 

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As it is a German van it probably has either an Elektroblock or CBE distribution unit, they normaly have the relay for the fridge built in. If so just need to run a cable from the appropriate output.
 
With a 2018 van I would be camping on the dealers forecourt until THEY SORTED IT UNDER WARRANTY regardless of the milage.
You shouldn't have to touch it yourself, it's their problem.
As they now know of the problem, If you have a major problem with the fridge during warranty, such as total failure, they will wipe their hands of it blaming you for self repairing.

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With a 2018 van I would be camping on the dealers forecourt until THEY SORTED IT UNDER WARRANTY regardless of the milage.
You shouldn't have to touch it yourself, it's their problem.
As they now know of the problem, If you have a major problem with the fridge during warranty, such as total failure, they will wipe their hands of it blaming you for self repairing.

I agree with your sentiment, but as I’ve already said the 500+ mile (Cornwall to Yorkshire) round trip doesn’t appeal, it’s also quite expensive. I’m not happy about the situation but it’s a job I can easily do myself and the parts cost pennies, so why make it more expensive and tiresome than it needs to be? Life’s too short.
 
you could just fit a smartcom relay next to the fridge set it quite high and it will only come on when the engine runs at 15 a pop you could carry a spare but we had similar setup and didnt let us down in 5 years but some people say they are unreliable , negates the need for a engine run signal use existing fridge feed as permanent live fridge terminal to fridge and link from permanent live to12v fused terminal with a fuse inbetween take 20 mins tops unless access is hard
obviously earth it

post-10590-0-75059500-1427901269.png
 
I agree with your sentiment, but as I’ve already said the 500+ mile (Cornwall to Yorkshire) round trip doesn’t appeal, it’s also quite expensive. I’m not happy about the situation but it’s a job I can easily do myself and the parts cost pennies, so why make it more expensive and tiresome than it needs to be? Life’s too short.
Well, I guess this is the price you pay for buying from a dealer so far away. It isn't always the great deal it first appears.
It's time motorhome dealers were forced by law to accept warranty claims of the same marquee, regardless of whether they sold it or not, in the same way car dealers have to.
 
you could just fit a smartcom relay next to the fridge set it quite high and it will only come on when the engine runs at 15 a pop you could carry a spare but we had similar setup and didnt let us down in 5 years but some people say they are unreliable , negates the need for a engine run signal use existing fridge feed as permanent live fridge terminal to fridge and link from permanent live to12v fused terminal with a fuse inbetween take 20 mins tops unless access is hard
obviously earth it

post-10590-0-75059500-1427901269.png

Thanks, that’s another option to consider. Wasn’t familiar with Smartcom Relays.
 
Well, I guess this is the price you pay for buying from a dealer so far away. It isn't always the great deal it first appears.
It's time motorhome dealers were forced by law to accept warranty claims of the same marquee, regardless of whether they sold it or not, in the same way car dealers have to.

There is a Weinsberg dealer in the SouthWest, but for irritating reasons best known to them they’ll only undertake warranty work on vans supplied by themselves. Not very helpful, but that’s how it is.

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The problem with using a smart relay is if you have solar panels that charge your starter battery, when the battery is being charger the voltage will rise the relay will turn on and the fridge will switch to 12v. The voltage will then drop the relay will turn off, then the voltage will rise so the cycle will repeat.
Voltage sensing relays are bad news in Motorhomes.
 
There is a Weinsberg dealer in the SouthWest, but for irritating reasons best known to them they’ll only undertake warranty work on vans supplied by themselves. Not very helpful, but that’s how it is.
German manufacturers normally have a pan European warranty so you can take the van to any dealer. Worth complaining to the manufacturer and if it is the case they will give the dealer a rocket up his arse.
 
The problem with using a smart relay is if you have solar panels that charge your starter battery, when the battery is being charger the voltage will rise the relay will turn on and the fridge will switch to 12v. The voltage will then drop the relay will turn off, then the voltage will rise so the cycle will repeat.
Voltage sensing relays are bad news in Motorhomes.

Excellent point, hadn’t thought of that. Yes, I do have a solar panel feeding both the starter and leisure battery so best stick with plan A. Thanks.
 
I agree with your sentiment, but as I’ve already said the 500+ mile (Cornwall to Yorkshire) round trip doesn’t appeal, it’s also quite expensive. I’m not happy about the situation but it’s a job I can easily do myself and the parts cost pennies, so why make it more expensive and tiresome than it needs to be? Life’s too short.
If you do it yourself you will be confident that it has been done properly and, for future reference, you'll know exactly how it's wired. I don't agree that a Warranty claim can be turned away unless the cause of the claim is work you have done yourself.
 
I agree with your sentiment, but as I’ve already said the 500+ mile (Cornwall to Yorkshire) round trip doesn’t appeal, it’s also quite expensive. I’m not happy about the situation but it’s a job I can easily do myself and the parts cost pennies, so why make it more expensive and tiresome than it needs to be? Life’s too short.
. Any NCC approved workshop close to you willing to do the work under Warranty?

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. Any NCC approved workshop close to you willing to do the work under Warranty?

Not sure, but I’ve been dabbling in auto electrics for years (classic cars) so I’m quite confident about doing the job.
 
Depending how you wire it, you should be able to do it in such a way that you can whip out the relay and put it back to original spec in seconds in the event of having to return to the dealer for a warranty claim ;)
 
Depending how you wire it, you should be able to do it in such a way that you can whip out the relay and put it back to original spec in seconds in the event of having to return to the dealer for a warranty claim ;)

I think the original factory spec is that it would have a relay fitted. I did approach Weinsberg with that question but was referred back to the dealer. Can’t believe they’d do otherwise.
 
I think the original factory spec is that it would have a relay fitted. I did approach Weinsberg with that question but was referred back to the dealer. Can’t believe they’d do otherwise.

I mean to the same condition as it was delivered to you, i.e. remove any additions you have made before returning to the dealer if it were to prove necessary.

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I mean to the same condition as it was delivered to you, i.e. remove any additions you have made before returning to the dealer if it were to prove necessary.

Yes, could easily be done.
 

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