Ducato 5th gear satelite housing leaking oil

mfw

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Sep 16, 2017
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Ok removed housing drained oil - replaced with new - gasket is rubber old 1 used looked good, used some instant gasket when put together - problem slight oil leak from bottom nut have just tightened a bit more looser than other nuts - not tried yet any other suggestions

Need to sort before eu trip worst case scenario can top up during use but drip is slight got 2 weeks to sort it or will do top up method dont think housing is distorted
 

PP Bear

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Apr 5, 2013
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I'm taking it that this is the gearbox we're talking about, as not heard of it being referred to as a satellite. If it is then I think you definitely need to sort it pre-trip!!!!

Planning on a EU journey with a known fault could be catastrophic, especially if it worsens with heat and as the higher pressure builds up in the box. Coupled to that, even a small constant drip can create quite a mess both under the vehicle and cause the oil to flick up on vehicles behind you, leave oil residue in the road and most likely cover the rear of the motorhome in splashes too.

Is it possible that you never cleaned both faces correctly. Also, the old compressed gasket needs to be replaced and a smear of gasket seal too.

Do all this before you set off. As for the oil leaking, if it did get worse and caused a motorbike to skid, or an accident, you'd feel awful about it.
 

dave newell

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Drain the box, remove the housing, clean and dry everything thoroughly. Apply new bead of instant gasket and refit housing but only tighten the bolts hand tight. Leave for 24 hours to allow instant gasket to cure then tighten the bolts to the correct torque setting. Tightening fully while the instant gasket is still wet will squeeze most of it out of the joint, Leaving it To Cure before Fully tightening will Create a compressible Rubber Seal.

D.

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mfw

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Thanks Dave i used sealant but i tightened up straight away so i will remove again and redo it as you suggest
 
OP
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mfw

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Drain the box, remove the housing, clean and dry everything thoroughly. Apply new bead of instant gasket and refit housing but only tighten the bolts hand tight. Leave for 24 hours to allow instant gasket to cure then tighten the bolts to the correct torque setting. Tightening fully while the instant gasket is still wet will squeeze most of it out of the joint, Leaving it To Cure before Fully tightening will Create a compressible Rubber Seal.

D.
Hi Dave cant seem to find any information for the torque settings i cant find it on fiat forum either what should they be thanks in advance
 
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M

mfw

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Off the top of my head... No idea. What torque setting did you use last time?

D.
Didn't torque them just tightened evenly ( literally just nipped them up didn't leave the instant gasket long enough to cure ) will use torque tomorrow and adjust torque to ensure all tightened the same will let you know what i torque them to certainly wont be overtightened worst case they may need nipping up a bit more.
Cant find breather pipe to top oil up so ended up just removing reverse switch takes longer to top up oil than it does to remove housing and replace
 
Oct 12, 2009
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I appreciate that the pressures in a gearbox are not like those in a diesel cylinder-head. But when I was re-gasketting my boat's cylinder-head(because he said you can do a better job, under his supervision, than a Greek), I cleaned off the head, but he said he could see some brown patches of old gasket and said 'do it again' -he was a very good engineer.

The point of this is that good engineering practice is that one should ensure that two sufaces should mate-up exactly.

I suggest you clean up the both surfaces, then offer them up to each other dry, and then test with a feeler guage whether there is a difference in tolerance on any side. The point is that any difference in tolerance will be a weak point. That weak point may be covered by 'gunk' in the short-term, but may lead to a subsequent problem.

If there is a discrepancy in tolerance it is more likely to be from a thermal or stress distortion on the housing rather than the main gearbox, so could be remedied by the housing being skimmed, then rechecked by offering it up again to the gearbox.

Two well-matched surfaces should be capable of being sealed wth a normal gasket, without 'gunk'.

Geoff

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OP
M

mfw

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I appreciate that the pressures in a gearbox are not like those in a diesel cylinder-head. But when I was re-gasketting my boat's cylinder-head(because he said you can do a better job, under his supervision, than a Greek), I cleaned off the head, but he said he could see some brown patches of old gasket and said 'do it again' -he was a very good engineer.

The point of this is that good engineering practice is that one should ensure that two sufaces should mate-up exactly.

I suggest you clean up the both surfaces, then offer them up to each other dry, and then test with a feeler guage whether there is a difference in tolerance on any side. The point is that any difference in tolerance will be a weak point. That weak point may be covered by 'gunk' in the short-term, but may lead to a subsequent problem.

If there is a discrepancy in tolerance it is more likely to be from a thermal or stress distortion on the housing rather than the main gearbox, so could be remedied by the housing being skimmed, then rechecked by offering it up again to the gearbox.

Two well-matched surfaces should be capable of being sealed wth a normal gasket, without 'gunk'.

Geoff
The gearbox is machined aluminium and the housing for 5th gear is pressed steel with a rubber gasket probably to allow tolerance in steel housing but it was all cleaned off prior to fitting but the silicon gasket was not left long enough to cure which is why it dripped a couple of drops of oil but due to no way of checking oil in box it needed to be done
 
Jan 11, 2018
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This threads a bit old now and you may well have found a solution.
My suggestion would be to consider an RTV sealant.
Room Temperature Vulcanisation , which uses moisture from the air to initiate the cure.

I am an ex Land Rover manufaturing and design engineer , we used it by the bucketful on the older products like Defender.
It can fill and seal gaps like 5.5 to 1mm and is an adhesive as well as a sealant.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pro-Seal...roof-Seal-Automotive-Car-Engine-/371727640492

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OP
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mfw

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Used granville instant gasket it has leaked everytime cant get leak anywhere close to 1st time i did it should of put up with odd drip now and again.

This time i am on wynns black gasket maker hopefully it will hold.

Cant get new gaskets now apparently you have to find decent 2nd hand one
This threads a bit old now and you may well have found a solution.
My suggestion would be to consider an RTV sealant.
Room Temperature Vulcanisation , which uses moisture from the air to initiate the cure.

I am an ex Land Rover manufaturing and design engineer , we used it by the bucketful on the older products like Defender.
It can fill and seal gaps like 5.5 to 1mm and is an adhesive as well as a sealant.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pro-Seal...roof-Seal-Automotive-Car-Engine-/371727640492
 
Aug 18, 2014
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If you get gasket paper they are not hard to make
Should be something on You Tube to show how to do it
What he said ^^^^ Make your own. Brown paper of a reasonable thickness. use cover as a template & to knock it out on. If you need it thicker & can't get hold of any proper gasket material then make 2 or 3 .

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Jun 12, 2016
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Various thickness of paper on e-bay
We used to tap out the shape with a small ball head hammer but the you tube videos most folk seem to trace theirs
Had a think last time I made one was probably about thirty years ago before career change:D
 
OP
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mfw

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Thanks for advise not sure paper gasket is the way to go

Anyway carried on with the wynns gasket maker which i used on both sides 24hrs on 1 side and rested on cover before doing other side of old rubber gasket and a lot of patience for wynns to cure so as not to compress too early - fitted - hand tight waited 2 hours tightened gently and evenly with socket - next day re-checked and nipped gently - today re-checked and nipped up again gently - tested on 10 mile run and no oil leaking after 2 hrs.

So a 20 min job off and on has just taken me nearly 4 days but it is not leaking now.

If i do it again will probably use gasket and housing with some parcel tape and wynns to make a new rubber gasket about 5mm thick on top of old gasket.

Good news is i'm off to spain sunday got enough wynns to redo gasket and enough oil to do a change if necessary
 
Apr 19, 2008
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When undertaking 5th gear change on my Hymer i obtained gasket from fiat dealership. As before ensure both mating surfaces are clean.

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mfw

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Ok i have been mislead by being told it is no longer available few phone calls this morning and i know what i need now.

Part no for gasket is 9624276680 might be of use to someone
 
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