Dreaded damp

Discussion in 'Motorhome Chat' started by Petest, Aug 28, 2016.

  1. Petest

    Petest Read Only Funster

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    Had a hab check carried out it it's showing a bit of moisture in the front of the overcab bed (passenger and drivers side just from the leading edge in about 6").

    Our van is a 08 Elddis 100.

    I only said to SWMBO that I plan on removing the metal joining plate on the roof and re sealing but this bit is dry.

    Has anyone taken off the awning channel (looks like one anyway ) and re sealed?
    Did it come off in one piece?
    Did you have to replace the rail or can the old one be cleaned up and reused?

    I'd rather go take it all off and use a non setting Hodgkins mastic stuff and know it's good for another few years.

    I have temporarily gunned some around the rail.
     

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  2. funflair

    funflair Funster Life Member

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    I took the awning rail off our caravan and resealed it, while you are on check the screws and if they are rusting replace with stainless ones. The rail came off OK but is only soft alloy so be carefull not to bend it too much, it is messy job cleaning everything up before resealing and fitting it back on.

    Martin
     
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  3. irnbru

    irnbru Funster Life Member

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    Could ir be condensation? How high were your readings.
    We had condensation that looked like damp last year. I blamed mum for cooking too much without proper ventilation. Windows opened now and problem gone.
     
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  4. Minxy Girl

    Minxy Girl Funster Life Member

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    It sounds more to me like condensation if it's in the corners which from your description it seems to be as moisture often gets trapped in places like this.

    Rather than start resealing etc, first I'd remove the mattress and leave the overcab completely clear, then on dry days open windows to let air circulate and you'll probably find it goes on it's own accord - might be worth investing in a damp meter so you can check it for yourself rather than have a damp check done again.

    If you don't use the overcab bed you could leave the mattress out anyway which should prevent any problems in the future.
     
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  5. chaser

    chaser Funster

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    You can get carried away with damp meters if you are not careful and know what you are doing, as minxy says ,any bit of condensation will throw a basic damp meter off the scale, likewise make sure you are not touching the rubber surrounds of the Windows because they will show damp , it's just the resistance in the rubber, when I first got one , I was poking the prongs under the rubber and every window was off the scale, lift the rubber up and try it, dry as a bone.(n)
     
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  6. Petest

    Petest Read Only Funster

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    I've got various professional meters (protimeters and tramex ). Van was dry in Feb when we brought it.
    Looked round the trim on the outside yesterday when I got home from work and someone had run some clear silicone around part of it before.
    I removed that and gunned some cv sealer stuff in as a temp job.
    I did think a couple of weeks ago we had condensation but now I think it was a leak.
    My meters are showing moisture behind the panel (checked using protimeter mms, surveymaster, mini and a tramex MRH3 set on drywall mode).
     
  7. Petest

    Petest Read Only Funster

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    I plan on removing the rail and resealing it using Hodgkins Seamseal CV when I get the time but have sealed it with the above in the meantime to prevent any further ingress.
    As opposed to stripping everything out (it's only a small area affected), I have an idea, comments appreciated.
    Here goes, my idea.
    Drill a series of 5mm holes through the wall board, just enough to penetrate the insulation a mm or so.
    Run a dehumidifier in the corner to hopefully draw out the moisture.
    Use an epoxy injection system to inject into the timber frame to strengthen it (the wood will be stronger than it was originally).
    Fill the holes.
    Recover the wall board.
    Verdict?
    Opinions?
     
  8. hilldweller

    hilldweller Funster Life Member

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    Caution, epoxy dissolves polystyrene insulation which may well be behind those holes. I think it would take months to work without proper air circulation. I had a fan heater blowing on one section for over a month before it dried.
     
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  9. Petest

    Petest Read Only Funster

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    Just a quick update.
    I have had a small dehumidifier running up in the corner of the overcab bed for a couple of days.
    Using my Tramex MRH3 moisture meter I can see that the moisture content is dropping already.
    I plan to leave it in the van till it is dried (hopefully).
    I was dubious about whether the dehumidifier would be effective through the vinyl faced ply board but it seems to be working.
    I'll keep updating this post as it progresses
     
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  10. ChrisL

    ChrisL Funster

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    I think you'll find it is polyester resin that will dissolve polystyrene foam not epoxy resin, many modern surfboards are made with epoxy resin and a polystyrene foam core.
     
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  11. Petest

    Petest Read Only Funster

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    Another update. I've had the small dehumidifier running in the front passenger side of the cab bed. This was reading the highest level of moisture. Pleased to announce that it's worked.
    It now reads zero on the meter (again using the non invasive scan mode which tests approx 20mm deep).
    Moved the dehumidifier to another area that reads a little high.
    Still to remove the awning rail and reseal it but my temporary seal is working.
     
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  12. GWAYGWAY

    GWAYGWAY Funster

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    I had a high reading around the main top vant on my Chausson so I took it out and checked it, slapped a load of sealant around the faces and squeezed it gently yo seal the gap. checked a year later and it showed high, but the wood in the joint was bone dry, so it must have been condensation around the colder hatchway. not all high readings are ingress of the outside water. The areas inside the cupboards were the same cold area = condensation from fetid breath and cooking. I bought a better insulated van now with proper arctic insulation.
     
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  13. Saltings

    Saltings Funster

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    In our Chausson Flash 626 (2014) we have had the main skylight operating handle replaced. The agent that did it has done the job so it does not totally shut. You have to wind it a couple of turns extra. Anyone else with this problem?

    Also makes me wonder if the rain/ damp can seep through during the winter?

    On a similar note at the last hab test the agent pushed the needle into the skin 10 times in one corner near the garage door! Then said he thought there was damp there!
    Regards
    Saltings
     
  14. Hettie's Crew

    Hettie's Crew Funster

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    Having been the victims of flooding and being dried out (house that is), we learnt from the specialist company that dried us out, the best way is a combination of fan and dehumidifier working together. The fan dislodges the damp and the dehumidifier catches it. Worked very well for us with no heat, during the winter.
     
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  15. Saltings

    Saltings Funster

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    Hi
    Many thanks, sorry to hear about your flooding. Will bear the suggestions you made in mind if necessary.
     
  16. wigster

    wigster Funster

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    Not of any help but any van with wood as part of the main structure is going to be a major problem if any water ingress is involved
     
  17. Saltings

    Saltings Funster

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    Absolutely correct. I used to spend all my life in wooden boats and so learnt about rotting timbers. Always used to check all the ribs for rot by using a marlin spike - bit different with a £50K motorhome tho!

    Have then gone to having a wooden house! had same problems with leaking windows etc and lack of ventilation which led to 20% moisture in some areas. Eventually meant the builders had to virtually re-build it under their's and the NHBC guarantee to a far higher spec with Swedish triple glazing, removing all outer shell and replacing with new OSB and totally covering the house in Sanofil DPM leaving a 42 mm gap between that and the outer cladding for air to circulate.

    Why can't a decent motorhome builder also learn from the Scandinavian house builders. may cost more but would save a lot of heartache. basically the motorhome should be waterproof (incl. round windows) but with good ventilation to cut out the risk of condensation?
     
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