Dometic RMD8555 problems

Bluemooner

Bluemooner

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As above fridge working ok this morning had a 2 hour drive to a new place got here fridge flashing and beeping changed the fuses I could find and it’s still not working any ideas tried gas as well and we are level
 
If it was flashing and beeping its not a fuse?

There is a button with a triangle type thing on, press that to reset it.
 
Thanks for your suggestions I have turned it down to 3rd settings and no flashing lights or beeping let’s hope it’s working
 
Bit of a thread resurrection, but this reported issue is very similar to what is happening to my Dometic AES RMS8555.

All seems fine, I switch the fridge on and whilst the display is naf, I can select any mode including Auto and I can hear the gas light when on gas.

In any mode, Auto, 12v, Gas, 230v, the fridge lights up but after about 2 and half minutes, it beeps about 30 times, and the blue power light flashes. It stops beeping but the blue light still flashes. There are, from what I can see, no other warning lights flashing - however, as these things are notoriously rubbish, it probably is showing other flashing lights and it's just broken so I can't see anything.

After another 2 and a half minutes, the beeping starts again and the cycle repeats.

The freezer is usually very efficient but it's not working just cool from the bag of ice, same as the fridge.

Two things have happened recently, I've replaced the heat gunk on the heatsink and have attached a fridge vent fan. Everything was working for an hour or so after so I assumed all good.

I'm going to disconnect the fan system and see what happens but as I'm now a CL nr Bridport, I'm looking for any other ideas to try in the "wild" please...


Thanks as ever.

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I should add the error state is like the door was left open/light on but I tested that by physically closing the switch. The light goes out but the problem persists.
 
Andacami said:
I should add the error state is like the door was left open/light on but I tested that by physically closing the switch. The light goes out but the problem persists.
Click to expand...
Usually caused by damp on the circuit board within the light, it's nota simple light & switch.
Disconnect the plug from the light/switch unit, this will stop the light working but if it also stops the alarms, then try drying the circuit board gently.
DP
PS. If it stops the alarms but drying out doesn't work, sounds like a new board/ light unit
 
We have the same unit and it did the multiple flashing a couple of times. Pressing the reset button always cleared this. Don't want to tempt fate here, but ours works well and is fine here where its 30 plus every day. We have four vent fans, two top, two bottom. Bottom ones suck in, top vent out. These are also on 24/7 whenever we're static. Fridge is always on high in this weather.

The only issue we have is moisture at the bottom. A consequence of opening the door so often, to get a cold drink. So we've solved this by folding a micro- fibre cloth and putting it at the bottom, by the salad box. To soak this up. Also our fridge is on every day, even when at home.
 
DP+JAY said:
Usually caused by damp on the circuit board within the light, it's nota simple light & switch.
Disconnect the plug from the light/switch unit, this will stop the light working but if it also stops the alarms, then try drying the circuit board gently.
DP
PS. If it stops the alarms but drying out doesn't work, sounds like a new board/ light unit
Click to expand...
I'll do that, thank you.
 
Disconnecting the PCB lightboard/door-switch block makes no difference, connecting the two wires directly at the connector makes no difference either. Suspect it needs to see a load of some sort across the two wires hence the PCB loaded with blue LEDs. The PCB was indeed damp and I have dried it out but still no luck.

I'll take it apart again and try another drying-out session overnight, the bloody thing will have to be turned off :(

Will also try disconnecting the fans in the morning, to late now...

Thanks again for the advice 🙏
 
Andacami ,I do not know if you already have it , but if not , there is a wiring diagram for your fridge shown in the service manual for your fridge that can be found in resources , (at the bottom of this page , in Manuals for Motorhome stuff section, page 2 ) which may be useful .
 
Thanks for your help folks, looks like a knackered switch/interior light unit and or cable and connectors due to condensation, or more accurately, really crap design.

Some say disconnecting the cable ceases the alarm, but not in my case. So I've succumbed to a halfords cool box for milk and stuff that won't take kindly to being warm and the fridge goes off overnight.

Currently researching how to mute the beeps if anyone knows or at least reducing the volume...
 
Andacami said:
Thanks for your help folks, looks like a knackered switch/interior light unit and or cable and connectors due to condensation, or more accurately, really crap design.

Some say disconnecting the cable ceases the alarm, but not in my case. So I've succumbed to a halfords cool box for milk and stuff that won't take kindly to being warm and the fridge goes off overnight.

Currently researching how to mute the beeps if anyone knows or at least reducing the volume...
Click to expand...
Why not just turn fridge off if not using it?
 
MichaelT said:
I did and you want to stop beeps?
Click to expand...
Indeed I do. But as per your advice and previously in my post, I do turn it off overnight whilst using the cool box for important stuff.

To clarify, the fridge is full, we just transfer the milk and other perishables overnight whilst it's off.
 
I've also found out that there may be a Reed switch on the control panel circuit board that senses when the door is closed that can fail as others gave replaced them.

I'm tempted to fill the buzzer with super glue in an attempt to silence it...?

But it does look like a new fridge/freezer is in order as I'd be annoyed if it failed during our France/Spain trip; I'll start a new thread on that subject.
 
Sorry folks, still no resolution...

I may pour some superglue into the beeper unit to silence it. However, I have noticed that the frequency changes when we stop and turn off the ignition...
 
The blue light definitely sounds like the Fridge thinks there a door open. 8 series are a bit prone to the catch on the freezer door freezing up, have you checked its moving correctly?

Where have you taken the feed to your fans from?

Is the burner and flue clear, nice blue flame?

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Andacami said:
Sorry folks, still no resolution...

I may pour some superglue into the beeper unit to silence it. However, I have noticed that the frequency changes when we stop and turn off the ignition...
Click to expand...
Make sure the fan you fitted is the right way round.
I made that rookie error when fitting a dometic upgrade fan to my fridge freezer.
Fridge would not get cold and error lights indicated a fault with the temperature sensor, although there was not.
 
If you can access the rear of the fridge try disconnection or bridging the connectors X114 and X111 (if connected) on the PCB to bypass the door closed reed switch.
 
jongood said:
The blue light definitely sounds like the Fridge thinks there a door open. 8 series are a bit prone to the catch on the freezer door freezing up, have you checked its moving correctly?

Where have you taken the feed to your fans from?

Is the burner and flue clear, nice blue flame?
Click to expand...
Both fridge and freezer doors and latches working mechanically, the light appears to go out if I push the microswitch. I'll double check the freezer.

Fan power feed is from the 12v input accessible by removing the lower vent and then the white cover.

I'll check the burner.

Freezer works just fine, fridge is average and expected but again working.
 
Andacami said:
Thanks, I'll have a go at that.
Click to expand...
This is as far as I got with the wiring diagram and connectors on the RMD 8--5 series fridge/freezers, there are a few PCB variations but it may help.

fridge connectors.png

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Thanks for all the suggestions, none have been successful in fixing the problem, instead, I've wedged a bit of blutak and screwed a self-tapper into the buzzer; it still errors out and beeps but is now so quiet you can't hear it.
 

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