Dometic Refrigerator Gas Problem - Solved

DBK

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We have had problems with our Dometic RM5310 refrigerator for some time. The symptoms are it lights easily on gas but won't stay lit. We eventually found that if after driving on 12 volts we left it for half an hour or so to cool down it would eventually light but it could easily take half a dozen or more attempts first.

Yesterday I spoke to a man called Phil Chapman who is called The Caravan Guy and lives in Exeter. I described the problem and told him what I had done - cleaned out the jet and burner etc and he suggested I operate the supply change over switch several dozen times, switching between gas and 12 volt. This is the switch on the left of the front panel which allows you to select, 240v, 12v or gas.

I did as he suggested and it now works and is lighting reliably on gas!

Phil said there are some electrical contacts which operator an "interrupter" which are prone to being temperamental. Operating the switch on and off many times cleans the contacts.

So, if you have a similar model to mine with a manual changeover switch and find it won't stay alight on gas give the switch a good workout and it may solve the problem. There are lots of other reasons for a fridge not running on gas of course so it won't cure all cases.

Phil Chapman's number is 07900 297 879. A top fridge man. :)
 
Last edited:
Aug 6, 2013
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We have had problems with our Dometic RM5310 refrigerator for some time. The symptoms are it lights easily on gas but won't stay lit. We eventually found that if after driving on 12 volts we left it for half an hour or so to cool down it would eventually light but it could easily take half a dozen or more attempts first.

Yesterday I spoke to a man called Phil Chapman who is called The Caravan Guy and lives in Exeter. I described the problem and told him what I had done - cleaned out the jet and burner etc and he suggested I operate the supply change over switch several dozen times, switching between gas and 12 volt. This is the switch on the left of the front panel which allows you to select, 240v, 12v or gas.

I did as he suggested and it now works and is lighting reliably on gas!

Phil said there are some electrical contacts which operator an "interrupter" which are prone to being temperamental. Operating the switch on and off many times cleans the contacts.

So, if you have a similar model to mine with a manual changeover switch and find it won't stay alight on gas give the switch a good workout and it may solve the problem. There are lots of other reasons for a fridge not running on gas of course so it won't cure all cases.

Phil Chapman's number is 07900 297 879. A top fridge man. :)
I've just had to look at the circuit diagram to see how the multiswitch turns off the gas (my fridge is same as yours). The gas is turned off because a contact in the multi-switch disconnects the flame failure device - the gas valve thinks the gas flame has gone out & therefore shuts off the gas supply. If that contact is dirty the effect is as you / Phil describe. A very useful tip because it isn't obvious how it happens even with access to the wiring diagram.

http://www.dometicrvcentre.com.au/documentmanager/item/428
 

Pete5996

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I have a Dometic RM7361 in my Cheyenne, which I brought out to my place in France in early May. On the way down, the fridge started refusing to operate on gas, which is inconvenient, to say the least. Once here, I was able to have a look at all the accessible parts without removing the fridge, through the rear vents.

The burner was checked and cleaned and I cleaned or re-made as many 12v connections as I could reach. Once or twice it lit up but stopped after a few minutes. I eventually reached the conclusion that the igniter module may be defective. I had to return to the UK for a couple of weeks, so I brought the igniter unit (RM 241-2789-10) back and had it checked by my dealer, who found it was working fine. His workshop lad commented that the RM7361 is a pretty reliable unit and that I should concentrate on the 12v connectors, particularly those of the gas valve, as he was sure I'd find it was a bad electrical contact.

I eventually traced the fault to a poor contact on the violet wire of the 8-way connector which links the igniter to the PSU and the gas valve. I believe this supplies only about 1.5v to the igniter so is vulnerable to any corrosion. It needed some work with a micro-sized needle file to clean inside the connector but all is running fine now, hurrah!....:party3:

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Sep 23, 2013
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I have had the same problem & more by good luck than judgement had reached the same conclusion.

Now, instead of turning the knob from 12v to gas (which are adjacent), I always turn it all the way to 'Off', then back to gas. Usually then fires up straight away, but sometimes needs repeating.

Maybe it's something to do with residual heat, but it is always more reluctant to run on gas immediately after running on 12v. Leave it 15 mins & it usually then runs fine. That's a nuisance if you are visiting somewhere & want to leave the van with the fridge running on gas.

Not directly related, but my sliding door opens across the front of the fridge vents. There is quite a big gap & you wouldn't think it would affect it much, but it's almost impossible to light the fridge with the door open. Once lit, it runs fine with the door open.
 
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DBK

DBK

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I have had the same problem & more by good luck than judgement had reached the same conclusion.

Now, instead of turning the knob from 12v to gas (which are adjacent), I always turn it all the way to 'Off', then back to gas. Usually then fires up straight away, but sometimes needs repeating.

Maybe it's something to do with residual heat, but it is always more reluctant to run on gas immediately after running on 12v. Leave it 15 mins & it usually then runs fine. That's a nuisance if you are visiting somewhere & want to leave the van with the fridge running on gas.

Not directly related, but my sliding door opens across the front of the fridge vents. There is quite a big gap & you wouldn't think it would affect it much, but it's almost impossible to light the fridge with the door open. Once lit, it runs fine with the door open.
That's a good tip about turning it through the off position to change from say 12v to gas.
 
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DBK

DBK

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I guess AES could well be different. With the manual jobbies (less to go wrong - ha! :)) you can just switch between them as there is a separate button for ignition.

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Jun 12, 2016
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We have had problems with our Dometic RM5310 refrigerator for some time. The symptoms are it lights easily on gas but won't stay lit. We eventually found that if after driving on 12 volts we left it for half an hour or so to cool down it would eventually light but it could easily take half a dozen or more attempts first.

Yesterday I spoke to a man called Phil Chapman who is called The Caravan Guy and lives in Exeter. I described the problem and told him what I had done - cleaned out the jet and burner etc and he suggested I operate the supply change over switch several dozen times, switching between gas and 12 volt. This is the switch on the left of the front panel which allows you to select, 240v, 12v or gas.

I did as he suggested and it now works and is lighting reliably on gas!

Phil said there are some electrical contacts which operator an "interrupter" which are prone to being temperamental. Operating the switch on and off many times cleans the contacts.

So, if you have a similar model to mine with a manual changeover switch and find it won't stay alight on gas give the switch a good workout and it may solve the problem. There are lots of other reasons for a fridge not running on gas of course so it won't cure all cases.

Phil Chapman's number is 07900 297 879. A top fridge man. :)
Thanks DBK I know it's an old post but been having similar issue of and on with ours.
Sometimes works fine other times will not stay lit when button released
Tried flicking switch a few times seems to have help
Time will tell
 
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DBK

DBK

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Thanks DBK I know it's an old post but been having similar issue of and on with ours.
Sometimes works fine other times will not stay lit when button released
Tried flicking switch a few times seems to have help
Time will tell
I solved the problem in the end by replacing the entire switch. I wasn't sure what the cause of the problem was but I removed the switch and tested it with a multimeter and found some of the contacts were not closing correctly. I tried adjusting things but with no success so a new switch was ordered and it worked perfectly. :)
 
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I have had the same problem & more by good luck than judgement had reached the same conclusion.

Now, instead of turning the knob from 12v to gas (which are adjacent), I always turn it all the way to 'Off', then back to gas. Usually then fires up straight away, but sometimes needs repeating.

Maybe it's something to do with residual heat, but it is always more reluctant to run on gas immediately after running on 12v. Leave it 15 mins & it usually then runs fine. That's a nuisance if you are visiting somewhere & want to leave the van with the fridge running on gas.

Not directly related, but my sliding door opens across the front of the fridge vents. There is quite a big gap & you wouldn't think it would affect it much, but it's almost impossible to light the fridge with the door open. Once lit, it runs fine with the door open.
aes fridges have a time delay between 12v and gas 15 mins not sure if that applys to manual changeovers as well

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Sep 23, 2013
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aes fridges have a time delay between 12v and gas 15 mins not sure if that applys to manual changeovers as well
No, I don't think so. It's not consistent enough for that. Sometimes it will light more or less immediately, other times is makes you wait. It's ok with an AES fridge - you can still just turn the gas back on & walk away & leave it, knowing that it will light (or should!!) in 15 mins. But it would be very annoying to have to hang around twiddling your thumbs every time you stopped with a manual changeover.
 
Sep 23, 2013
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I solved the problem in the end by replacing the entire switch.
Can you remove the switch from the front, or did you have to pull the fridge forward?
 
Sep 23, 2013
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I had to take the lid off which meant removing the fridge. :(
I was afraid that would be the case. ☹️ Oh well....

My other problem is that both vents need replacing. Not the removable part, which are fine, but the back plates. Not only are they screwed in place (no problem - I own a screwdriver!) but they are stuck in place with an adhesive mastic rather than a non-setting mastic. They are going to be a real problem to remove without damaging the surrounding metallic paintwork.
 
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