Dometic Gas Fridge not staying alight

[pwilmo]

Hi all MFs
My gas fridge stays lit for 4-5 hrs then the pilot goes out and doesn't auto relight, I fiddle with temp knob and it relights for another 4 or so hrs.

During the working time the fridge and freezer work fine. It works fine on 240v.

I have cleaned out the pipes, new filter pipe, new jet & burner unit, new gas controller, cleaned all electrical contacts and there is a very healthy roaring blue flame.

It now is looking like the temp knob, but for the life of me I cannot see how to dismantle the fridge facia to get at the workings/ contacts.
I can see two screws deep behind the knob controls and there is a knurled round screw thingy in the middle underside of the upper fascia.
The fridge is fridge freezer model is RM 7655L. I must admit the control knob doesn't seem to have definite movement, it feels a bit loose/wooly.
Anyone mended a similar problem please?

 

[Stanbrook]

 

[autorouter]

The thermostat knob turns a (flimsy) plastic rod that reaches to a rotating potentiometer (a kind of variable resistor) on the control board. This rod is easy to break by even moderate force on the thermostat knob. It is available as a spare part, and is easy to fit once you have taken the front panel off.

As I recall, the two control knobs simply pull off, and behind them are screws holding the front panel.

 

[paddymcc]

The thermostat knob turns a (flimsy) plastic rod that reaches to a rotating potentiometer (a kind of variable resistor) on the control board. This rod is easy to break by even moderate force on the thermostat knob. It is available as a spare part, and is easy to fit once you have taken the front panel off.

As I recall, the two control knobs simply pull off, and behind them are screws holding the front panel.

Can confirm that autorouter is correct regarding removing the panel. The rods have a D shaped cross section that the nob fits onto. I guess that the rod or the nob could have burred so it twists without engaging?

 

[autorouter]

Turning the knob should change the number of LEDs illuminated on the front panel. You can see if the rod turns the potentiometer on the control board, because the number of lights illuminated will change.

To be honest, I set the fridge thermostat to halfway and it never seems to need changing. As a temporary measure you could set the potentiometer manually until you can source a replacement part. Assuming the rod is the problem, of course.

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[pwilmo]

Not staying Alight -UPDATE -Gas Fridge Fixed
One and all, thank you for all your help.

I replaced the control panel -pcb board, easy enough job it was (take off each connection and directly fit to new pcb connector) - one by one.

The spindle to the temperature controller had snapped off, however the replacement pcb (£237 !!) has an improved more robust spindle, so shouln't happen again .. until Mrs Sausage Fingers gets in there and cranks it round. The stuff she brakes, I'm sure she has shares in Motorhome Spares and Fittings).

I fitted a wedge into the connector block. Tapped and shook all the piping, recleaned jets and flue spiral thingy.

The fridge and freezer working so far so good, ice cubes are frozen now for 3 days, fridge seems good, all working on Temp 2 (my temp dial is numbered 1-4).
I may buy temperature gauge to test the fridge with food in, but the beers are good.