Dometic fridge RM7361 gas not working (1 Viewer)

[Chevy]

Hi all it’s my first thread as a new member so please be kind!
I have not long upgraded to a Fiat Ducato Apache Autotrailer and have had a nightmare trying to get help to fix it as no ones available until September so I decided to have a go myself.
The 3 way knob when set to gas just flashes amber, there is no gas at the burner nor clicking.
I have checked the voltage on the purple and black wires that leaves the PCB (mes 2412771-10) to the igniter (2412789-30) and there is 1.5v when the knob is turned to gas on the pcb.
The harness has been changed as there were 2 broken connectors but still no ignition click.
I then believed it must be the igniter so I changed it but still no click or spark.
There is gas getting to the gas valve (Gv1002412798-20) but none leaving.
I’m now at a loss, any help would me very much appreciated
Chevy

 

[Vipar]

Greetings peeps welcome from Bexley

 

[stevewagner]

Did you push and hold the knob in on gas?

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[GeoffnDee]

Is the ground wire that goes to the burner from the ignition unit making a good connection at the burner.

 

[Chevy]

Hi , the Dometic RM7361 does not have that function it is automatic when switched to gas

 

[Chevy]

The earth at the igniter is grounded and tested with a meter

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[Andycap]

I had that problem it cost about 100.00 for a new ignition unit. its a bit tight to change but can be done.

 

[Chevy]

Have changed the unit without joy

 

[GeoffnDee]

Is it possible that the gas valve solenoid is stuck shut as I believe that the thermostat controls when it is open or not and if it is not opening allowing gas flow it would not need a spark to take place.

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[Spriddler]

 

[Spriddler]

I have checked the voltage on the purple and black wires that leaves the PCB (mes 2412771-10) to the igniter (2412789-30) and there is 1.5v when the knob is turned to gas on the pcb.

Wouldn't the igniter need more than 1.5v for it to spark (with an audible click)?

There is gas getting to the gas valve (Gv1002412798-20) but none leaving.

Maybe the gas valve won't open if the igniter isn't functioning?

 

[mitzimad]

if you have 1.5 v at the gas valve and no gas i would suspect its the gas valve thats failed check you have gas up stream and not down
the flashing amber is lock out as in its tried to light and didnt this will happen very quickly under 5 seconds when the igniter will stop

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[mitzimad]

Wouldn't the igniter need more than 1.5v for it to spark (with an audible click)?



Maybe the gas valve won't open if the igniter isn't functioning?

gas valve has to open before the igniter of there would be no gas to light and op is correct its a two stage gas valve and there should be 1.5 volts on both sides

 

[Chevy]

Ahh ok so the gas valve must open to allow the igniter to produce a spark?
I will check to see what if any voltage is at the gas valve terminals 1and 2 to ground.

 

[ambulancekidd]

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[Chevy]

Thankyou

 

[Chevy]

I have no voltages at the gas solenoid when applying 1.5 volts to the new igniter on the violet and black wires ? Really at a loss here lol

 

[Spriddler]

I've only replaced the elements and the gas jet in mine so can't help much but from the checks you've carried out it would seem that you already have the manual (with the wiring diagram on page 29).

Manual Dometic RM 7361 (page 10 of 30) (English)

View and download the Manual of Dometic RM 7361 Refrigeration and freezing (page 10 of 30) (English). Also support or get the manual by email.

www.libble.eu

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[GeoffnDee]

It seems that the thermostat controls the opening and closing of the valve via the ignition unit all I can suggest is that you clean every 12v terminal you can including at the temp control and double check the (black ?) wire connection that runs from the gas burner base back into the ignition unit via a multiplug.
The only violet wire on my diagram is the 12v connection along with a black wire, with the ignition shown as a red wire and the ionisation probe being a black wire from the ignition unit.
The diagram I have is the same as the one that Spriddler has put on.

 

[Chevy]

yep feel like I’ve been through it all but something missing , I would have thought if I applied 1.5 v with a battery across the igniter pins that get the voltage normally from the pcb the igniter would start clicking but it doesn’t ?

 

[mitzimad]

you will not see any voltage at the gas valve if the fridge is in lock out you need to start the sequence each time

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[Chevy]

Ok will check, thankyou

 

[Chevy]

Ok had some time today to have a good look, the 3 wires from the pcb board in the fridge from connecter X110 (violet ,black and white) carry 1.4v to the igniter, the white is a .5v sense wire.
If I apply 1.5v battery to the violet and black there is no clicking at the ignition unit nor 1.5 v at the the gas valve. If I apply 1.5v at the 2 ends of the gas valve I hear the valves click so that appears to be working . Still can’t get the igniter to click even though I’ve changed it out ?

 

[GeoffnDee]

Are terminals C/D (X105) getting a permanent full 12v as required ?

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[Chevy]

Yep permanent 12v at this point

 

[Chevy]

The fridge 240v and the 12v with engine running also work fine

 

[GeoffnDee]

All of your problems seem to be linked to the Burner control device (2412789303) which I think you have replaced , did you replace it with a new one from a good source.

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[mitzimad]

putting voltage to the igniter pins will not produce a spark theres a spark generator in side the black box

 

[Chevy]

Hi Geoff that’s exactly what I thought the ignition unit is supposed to be all automatic and generate its own spark to the burner, supply voltage to the gas valves and sense when the thermostat is on or off to control the gas supply.
I have searched endlessly on the web to find a way of testing it,
One site described connecting a 1.5 volt battery to the same terminals from the X110 plug (disconnect the plug from the pcb board )on the violet and black to provide a constant voltage supply to the ignition unit but I have no spark?
I changed the ignition unit out for a brand new one from a caravan parts department so should be good.
has anyone tested one of these units and if so what was your procedure please

 

[Andycap]

To find out if everything else was OK I turned it onto gas, when I heard the clicking noise i lit the burner manually which worked. I was getting the clicking sound but no spark. As soon as I fitted the new unit it lit first time. It may be the the unit you got is faulty. I wouldn't have clue how to test it though.

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