Dometic AES Ventilation flue temperature and some other Qs (1 Viewer)

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sallylillian

sallylillian

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But now I think there is a 30 mins delay in switching solar to gas to avoid ocillation in marginal conditions.
 

funflair

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I'm guessing that the relay would disconnect the fridge from the EHU circuit and connect it to the inverter outlet circuit.

@Lenny HB - could this work ?
If I understand this correctly the AES can switch a relay with 12v 0.2 amp max.

Der
Ausgangsstrom der Klemme „AES
“ beträgt 12V
max.
0,2A.
Bei größeren Verbrauchern regelt der Ausgang ab
und ist erst
nach einer Abkühlphase wieder belastbar.
Für
die Versorgung
größere
r Verbraucher ist dann ein Lastrelais zwischen zu schalten.


I did cheat and ask google

Of the
Output current of the terminal "AES
"Is 12V
Max.
0.2A.
For larger consumers, the output is controlled
And is first
Can be reloaded after a cooling phase.
For
the supply
more
R load then a load relay is to be switched between.


 

funflair

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But now I think there is a 30 mins delay in switching solar to gas to avoid ocillation in marginal conditions.

According to the Dometic stuff the AES is only a few seconds S+ to gas but then Votronic will wait 30 minutes before making the connection back to S+ as you say to stop any undue cycleing.

Martin

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R

Robert Clark

Deleted User
If I understand this correctly the AES can switch a relay with 12v 0.2 amp max.

Der
Ausgangsstrom der Klemme „AES
“ beträgt 12V
max.
0,2A.
Bei größeren Verbrauchern regelt der Ausgang ab
und ist erst
nach einer Abkühlphase wieder belastbar.
Für
die Versorgung
größere
r Verbraucher ist dann ein Lastrelais zwischen zu schalten.


I did cheat and ask google

Of the
Output current of the terminal "AES
"Is 12V
Max.
0.2A.
For larger consumers, the output is controlled
And is first
Can be reloaded after a cooling phase.
For
the supply
more
R load then a load relay is to be switched between.

Hi Martin
I wasn't referring to the Dometic relay
Instead I was suggesting an independent relay that would connect fridge to the inverter, and disconnect the fridge from the EHU circuit. Triggered by the S+
 

funflair

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Hi Martin
I wasn't referring to the Dometic relay
Instead I was suggesting an independent relay that would connect fridge to the inverter, and disconnect the fridge from the EHU circuit. Triggered by the S+
Hi Robert

I didn't explain properly the 12v 0.2 amp is the spec of the S+ signal from the Votronic controller.

Martin
 
R

Robert Clark

Deleted User
Hi Robert

I didn't explain properly the 12v 0.2 amp is the spec of the S+ signal from the Votronic controller.

Martin
Thanks Martin
Do you think my idea for the home made relay would work, allowing the fridge to be connected to the inverter?

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funflair

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I wonder if there was a way to use the S+ to trigger a relay to connect 240v from your inverter to power the fridge when there was excess solar?
I guess anything is possible if you try hard enough but it would raise other questions and issues and again when you are on the road the S+ could have the relay switched to inverter power to the fridge (assuming you run the inverter on the road) when the S+ decides to come off solar it would close the relay depriving the fridge of what it sees as a 240v supply and it will go straight to gas which could be in a service station.

Michaels problem seem to be partly or wholly related to the fact that the 12v element in the fridge is significantly less than the 240v side at 170 vs 250 watts, ours is different but only 170 vs 190 so that possibly explain why our seems to work OK on the solar option.

Martin
 

Lenny HB

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Am I correct in thinking all of you guys discussing this have refillable gas systems and LPG is cheap the fridge doesn't use much gas and we all know it works better on gas.
SO- Why bother?
Appears to be a case of it's there so we are going to use it even if performance is worse.:D
 
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sallylillian

sallylillian

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For those that read the Yankee report, what would be a good tool to measure the individual temperature of each fin?

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funflair

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Thanks Martin
Do you think my idea for the home made relay would work, allowing the fridge to be connected to the inverter?
Hi Robert

I possibly answered or at least partly answered your question while I was addressing a different post, I am struggling to see how it would work practically but that's partly because if I put our inverter on it will automatically power the fridge as we supply all 240v apart from the battery charger via the inverter change over.

I mentioned above the potential for service station problems but it depends on how and when you run your inverter and indeed how the fridge is wired into the system as I get the feeling they are all a little different.

If you have a MassCombi inverter/charger mains unit like Mastervolt or Victron does the fridge run from the inverter side when the mains is not present and then what stops it flattening the batteries? if it did you could just interrupt the mains incoming with a S+ switched relay and then the inverter would take over running effectively via solar.

Martin
 

funflair

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Am I correct in thinking all of you guys discussing this have refillable gas systems and LPG is cheap the fridge doesn't use much gas and we all know it works better on gas.
SO- Why bother?
Appears to be a case of it's there so we are going to use it even if performance is worse.:D
@Lenny HB I am sure that you are 100% correct, for me it is something for nothing as it works with a short length of cable and a 59 pence Maplin's diode, to be honest I just wanted to see if it would or if I could make it work and after that the fun was over and it didn't matter if I never used it again, but the truth "for us" is that yes it works and doesn't seem to deteriorate the performance of the fridge (all fridges are different) YES it saves a bit of gas will it make me rich NO does it matter either way NO.

But it's fun all the same, I know you like a challenge as well really.

Martin
 
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funflair

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I revamped the mains on mine so fridge and charger are only powered when on EHU. See here.
Seen that(y) that's how I knew you liked a fiddle/challenge as much as the rest of us.

Martin

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R

Robert Clark

Deleted User
.
Hi Robert

I possibly answered or at least partly answered your question while I was addressing a different post, I am struggling to see how it would work practically but that's partly because if I put our inverter on it will automatically power the fridge as we supply all 240v apart from the battery charger via the inverter change over.

I mentioned above the potential for service station problems but it depends on how and when you run your inverter and indeed how the fridge is wired into the system as I get the feeling they are all a little different.

If you have a MassCombi inverter/charger mains unit like Mastervolt or Victron does the fridge run from the inverter side when the mains is not present and then what stops it flattening the batteries? if it did you could just interrupt the mains incoming with a S+ switched relay and then the inverter would take over running effectively via solar.

Martin

I was planning to have the inverter feed just the 240v sockets
Your suggestion for the relay is exactly what I had in mind
I found a potential relay on EBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122327365987

@Lenny HB
Appreciate your comments about gas being cheap, but if you're somewhere where Autogas is not widely available, then any way to conserve gas is a benefit and reduces my carbon footprint too
 

Lenny HB

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.


I was planning to have the inverter feed just the 240v sockets
Your suggestion for the relay is exactly what I had in mind
I found a potential relay on EBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122327365987

@Lenny HB
Appreciate your comments about gas being cheap, but if you're somewhere where Autogas is not widely available, then any way to conserve gas is a benefit and reduces my carbon footprint too
The NO contacts are rated at 30 amps but the NC only at 10 amp, just enough if you were using your inverter at max.

I thought you were fitting the Victron charger/inverter that unit does it for you.
 
R

Robert Clark

Deleted User
I thought you were fitting the Victron charger/inverter that unit does it for you.
I am
This relay is to connect the fridge to the inverter - triggered by the S+ On the assumption that the fridge works better on 240v than 12v

Though looking at the Dometic 8505 spec the 240v element rating is 190w and the 12v is 170w so not sure it it's worth doing.
May just connect the S+ direct to the fridge
 
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sallylillian

sallylillian

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An update on developments. It turns out that my 230 volt heating element had failed. This was somewhat masked by the solar cutting in the DC. I just assumed that the higher temperatures in the fridge were due to the DC heating. This was diagnosed yesterday by a air conditioning mate of mine on Bonterra, he metered the element. So I switched permanent to Gas whilst on site and then we moved to Moncofa later that day which was the plan anyway.
So contacted the local Dometic engineer and he offered a 10 am appointment today and duly arrived. Had multiple elements, checked mine and concurred it was kaput and fitted the correct new one, 250 watts.
He had a big problem due to access and we had to move the fridge out a couple of inches, but he could not completely remove the shroud and spent ages jiggling about to get the old one out and the new one in. Took him an hour instead of 10 minutes he said it normally takes!
But here's the interesting bit. Once we confirmed the element was working I switched to gas to get a big chunk of cooling back in, and wow it went from 10 down to 5 degrees in just over an hour. Its never done that. The sealing I did round the drip tray hole is working and load of water came down the tube. So I am wondering if the reports you hear of these same fridges better for one person than another is something to do with the way in which the heaters are positioned during assembly. Clearly my insulation has been disturbed maybe putting the relevant elements in closer contact, I may never know. But have now switched to electric to see if it holds the temperature? Not going to put the AES to solar back on, I will see how things go!
 

Lenny HB

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Well after getting all excited with the fridge getting down to below zero on the drive at home, back to normal Dometic performance when it's full of food. Running on gas middle and bottom of fridge 8.7 to 10.9 deg, top shelf 2.2 to 2.9 deg. I feel a @Robert Clark in internal fan mod coming on.
The TecTower oven up to their usual high standard, last night after letting it warm up for 10min put somethng in that needed 20min, 1 hour 10 min later it was just about ready and that was on full blast.

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makems

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Well after getting all excited with the fridge getting down to below zero on the drive at home, back to normal Dometic performance when it's full of food. Running on gas middle and bottom of fridge 8.7 to 10.9 deg, top shelf 2.2 to 2.9 deg. I feel a @Robert Clark in internal fan mod coming on.
The TecTower oven up to their usual high standard, last night after letting it warm up for 10min put somethng in that needed 20min, 1 hour 10 min later it was just about ready and that was on full blast.
Re oven, just had van in for hab service and technician rang me to tell me the oven wasnt working properly.
I replied that as it was TEC tower oven it wasnt supposed to be any use except as an additional kitchen cupboard. Totally and absolutely useless piece of equipment.
 

Lenny HB

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Only 20 deg outside so fans hadn't kicked in I had my controller set to 35 above the fins sensor was reading 36 but on this controller it doesn't switch until 2 deg above set point. I changed the set point to 32, fans kicked in and temp above the fins dropped to 28 in a couple of mins and fridge inside tempstarted to fall and at the bottom of the fridge quickly got down to 7 deg.
 

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