Do not understand why the wiring is like this

[DT]

Me EBL119 has the cables for the solar controller connected to block 7 and not block 6. Being a layman I am thinking this is not correct. Can anyone offer advice before I talk to the dealer ?

 

[John Barrett]

IIRC the block 6 on my Hymer was where I plugged in the dedicated regulator LR something.
But given the state of my memory these days...

 

[DT]

IIRC the block 6 on my Hymer was where I plugged in the dedicated regulator LR something.
But given the state of my memory these days...

Hi yes LR1218, not the best I understand but how it came from factory.

 

[Phill D]

The lr1218 is a decent controller it’s just not an mppt

 

[Phill D]

As I understand it “ zus laser “ means additional load!

My solar is connected to block 6

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[namwaldog]

LR1218 manual attached if of any use?

 

[AgeingAndrew]

Me EBL119 has the cables for the solar controller connected to block 7 and not block 6. Being a layman I am thinking this is not correct. Can anyone offer advice before I talk to the dealer ?

I don’t think it matters, block 6 and 7 are both charger inputs. Block 7 is the aux charger input. I connect my solar charger through the aux charger block on my EBL.

 

[Lenny HB]

I think Block 7 is where you normally plug an auxillary mains charge in.

 

[Lenny HB]

The lr1218 is a decent controller it’s just not an mppt

It's only a single stage charger it's OK with Gels but I wouldn't want to risk any other type of battery with it.

 

[Phill D]

It's only a single stage charger it's OK with Gels but I wouldn't want to risk any other type of battery with it.

Yep I get that but as single stage go it’s a decent item.
I had one with a gel battery for 8 years and it kept the battery in good fetl.

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[tonka]

Block 6 would have an additional connection for the starter battery to be charged.
Maybe your regulator came with the 2 pin lead and whoever fitted it just used block 7.
You could maybe obtain the 3 pin version of the lead and connect to the solar block 6 if you wanted..

 

[GeoffnDee]

I think block 7 can take more amps than the block 6 , solar , and maybe it has been used if you have a lot of solar power ?

 

[chaser]

If it's working, I'd leave it alone

 

[Minxy]

Block 6 would have an additional connection for the starter battery to be charged.
Maybe your regulator came with the 2 pin lead and whoever fitted it just used block 7.
You could maybe obtain the 3 pin version of the lead and connect to the solar block 6 if you wanted..

I'd have to do a search of the forum to be sure as I can't remember the EBL I had but I think it was the EBL119 which if I'm right doesn't have a connection to the cab battery which is why I had to do my own in my previous Globecar. Just about to have dinner so can't search at the mo.

 

[AgeingAndrew]

Block 6 would have an additional connection for the starter battery to be charged.
Maybe your regulator came with the 2 pin lead and whoever fitted it just used block 7.
You could maybe obtain the 3 pin version of the lead and connect to the solar block 6 if you wanted..

Not according to the EBL119 manual (found at aandncaravanservices.co.uk). According to the schematic at the end of the manual the centre pin of block 6 looks like the input for a solar cell when using the LR02 controller, not to the starter battery. I guess the EBL119 is an old model.

I'd agree with Chaser and leave it well alone if it works.

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[Minxy]

Dinner has been scoffed!

Here's a link to a previous thread where the question comes up ref the EBL119 and why I had to do a separate lead for the hab battery along with a link to my Globecar Campsite website itself where you can read more info.

Time for a Globecar

There doesn't seem to be much space for two rear beds in a Campscout Revolution for 4-peeps but can the lower one be removed so that the top one then sits in its place instead?

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

I have the 119. I bought a duo regulator for the solar. One Anderson connection goes to block 6, [ hab battery]. the other also using an Anderson plug/socket goes to the vehicle battery. This does work to keep both batteries topped up at this time of year using a 120w folding panel in the front windscreen. Hopefully, I'll have 200watts via a roof fitted panel that arrived today from Craig panels.

 

[autorouter]

The 3-way 'Solar' connector (Pins 1 & 3) and the 2-way Auxiliary Charger (Zusatz Ladegerat) connector both connect internally to the same point, through similar connector pins. They go through fuses on the front panel, with appropriate labels. Both are OK to take output from a solar controller. You could even add a second panel and controller into the 3-way of you want. Or add an auxiliary charger.

Pin 2 of the 3-way connects to the starter battery on some EBLs, and out to one of the other connectors on other EBLs.

 

[Phill D]

The 3-way 'Solar' connector (Pins 1 & 3) and the 2-way Auxiliary Charger (Zusatz Ladegerat) connector both connect internally to the same point, through similar connector pins. They go through fuses on the front panel, with appropriate labels. Both are OK to take output from a solar controller. You could even add a second panel and controller into the 3-way of you want. Or add an auxiliary charger.

Pin 2 of the 3-way connects to the starter battery on some EBLs, and out to one of the other connectors on other EBLs.

That’s great information, thanks for sharing.
Can I ask a question that I think I already know the answer to please , the dbl has a limited charge capacity I believe it is 15 amps. Am I correct in assuming that it is 15 Amos total not per connection.

 

[autorouter]

Can I ask a question that I think I already know the answer to please , the dbl has a limited charge capacity I believe it is 15 amps. Am I correct in assuming that it is 15 Amos total not per connection.

It's about 15A per pin. These EBLs were designed in times when a 100W panel was thought of as the most anyone could ever need, so you have to be careful with high-amps solar controllers, B2Bs and fast chargers. Schaudt make a high current module (HSM01) that can be wired into some systems, designed to play nicely with display panels etc. But mostly people just bypass the EBL and wire straight to the leisure battery.

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[BouncyBoatFolk]

It's about 15A per pin. These EBLs were designed in times when a 100W panel was thought of as the most anyone could ever need, so you have to be careful with high-amps solar controllers, B2Bs and fast chargers. Schaudt make a high current module (HSM01) that can be wired into some systems, designed to play nicely with display panels etc. But mostly people just bypass the EBL and wire straight to the leisure battery.

Is the bypassing preferential, or just the sage avoidance of possible problems?
I ask as I'm just about to wire a 200w panel through the 119 on our van. I do have an Anderson plug handy for direct attachment to the L.B.
but assume I'll then need a "battery master", to keep the cab battery happy, or use the 2nd battery output from the MPPT? Also, this method probably won't show on the display icon lights above the door?
Your continued good advice is most appreciated.
Mike.

 

[GeoffnDee]

BouncyBoatFolk , If it is any help the EBL119 manual states that-The maximum permitted battery charging via the solar charger regulator is 14 amps - The information about this ,in the manual you can download , along with information about solar connections and battery master fitting can be found at www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk

 

[GeoffnDee]

Should be www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk

 

[autorouter]

Is the bypassing preferential, or just the sage avoidance of possible problems?
I ask as I'm just about to wire a 200w panel through the 119 on our van. I do have an Anderson plug handy for direct attachment to the L.B.

200W is about the limit of the connector pins, so if you're thinking of future upgrading then it would have to go direct to the leisure battery. If the EBL was bypassed, the voltage indications would still be OK on the panel, but if there were any amps or state-of-charge indicators they wouldn't be accurate. That's not a big problem on many display panels anyway. Many people fit a proper battery monitor with a shunt on the leisure battery negative terminal, for example a Victron BMV or a NASA BM.

There are various possible schemes like sending the solar input through both pins, on both the 3-way and 2-way connectors, to get double the amps capacity, but I think it's better to go direct and fit a monitor.

 

[Lenny HB]

Although Schaudt say you can up the solar fuse to 20 amps I've found with just 10 amps passing through the EBL you lose 5%.

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[Phill D]

Although Schaudt say you can up the solar fuse to 20 amps I've found with just 10 amps passing through the EBL you lose 5%.

Interesting, I have recently added a panel to a total of 250 watts of solar and have still got it through the EBL.
I have been considering changing it to direct to the batteries as I have a separate monitor.

 

[Lenny HB]

Interesting, I have recently added a panel to a total of 250 watts of solar and have still got it through the EBL.
I have been considering changing it to direct to the batteries as I have a separate monitor.

Well worth changing.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

Many thanks AR & LB. So new panel through the 119, and auxiliary 120w folding panel direct to leisure battery via the Anderson socket already fitted .

 

[DT]

Thanks. I do have 200watts of solar and a battery master and everything seems to be working fine. What I will do is ask the Burstner dealer if the wiring is correct when it goes in for its habitation service towards the end of August.

 

[Manic]

When I fitted a LR1218 solar reg to my ebl99 on block 6 it wouldn’t work, so I emailed Udo Lang at Schaudt and he said use block 7 . I had to cut the connector because it was made for a 3 pin type although it only had 2 wires, this worked for 4 years. So I would leave it if it’s workin.