Damp Locker (1 Viewer)

[Revolvor]

I’d like some advice on a damp issue please.

Before I start, please don’t tell me I should have bought a German van!

I have just had my annual habitation check on my 8-year old MH. Rather than use the dealer where I bought it, as I did last year, they recommended a local mobile service this time.

Firstly, I was a bit concerned when he used a probe-pin meter, which I discovered later had left lots of small indentations in the panels. He highlighted an area of damp in one of the lockers. I’m not sure how he determined the actual values, as it just had a series of coloured LEDS, and he was moving it about so quickly, I could hardly note the readings.

The rather basic readings he reported were:

(15 under the window, 30/40 beside the locker door, 30 in the door, & 30 below the door.)

The MH is normally parked on a slight slope on my drive, so all the water from the roof drains down from two places on the off-side.

Link Removed

The locker with the damp is under the front drain point. I have noted in the past that the locker has two “close” positions, and needs to be clicked home to compress the rubber seals. If not fully home I did once see some water in the locker after heavy rain.

Their recommended solution is to remove and reseal the window over the locker, remove and replace an internal section 300mm x 300mm adjacent to the locker, and remove and replace the lining of the locker door.

To do this, they have quoted £1200. Are they having a laugh? (Not covered by insurance, as more than 7 years old)

If as I believe, the water was getting in through the locker door, will it dry out in time, without recourse to the drastic surgery?

I plan to fit some Fiamma Gutter strip to divert water away from the window and locker, and will always ensure the locker is fully closed.

Any comments? Thanks, John

 

[magicsurfbus]

When we traded our 11 year old (non-German!) MH in the other day, the only significant damp they found was in the boot doors. This was actually a huge relief as the roof has leaked on three separate occasions, although not recently since the last repair. I would therefore conclude that damp seepage in locker/boot access may not be that uncommon. Like you say, it could be the seals getting old and less flexible, or possibly spray from the front wheel? Or both? Don't know.

I found it handy to buy my own damp meter (about £40 in B&Q) with probe pins to get a second opinion if damp was found. My readings have agreed with the mobile fitter's so far, so we both know where we stand. I'm no engineer but I would guess that the 30 reading shown on the door could be leakage into the door itself, as it was on ours, causing the inner door panels to ripple. Not sure how you sort that without some sort of strip down and lining replacement.

I resealed all my windows recently by running fresh sealant along the top edge of each window opening.

You could always get a second opinion and estimate from another mobile fitter?

 

[Tootles]

If as I believe, the water was getting in through the locker door, will it dry out in time, without recourse to the drastic surgery?

Probably the best action. Just keep your eye on it.

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[hilldweller]

Firstly, I was a bit concerned when he used a probe-pin meter, which I discovered later had left lots of small indentations in the panels. He highlighted an area of damp in one of the lockers. I’m not sure how he determined the actual values, as it just had a series of coloured LEDS, and he was moving it about so quickly, I could hardly note the readings.

Any comments? Thanks, John

I'd have thrown him out before the third reading. Using cheap kit and damaging your MH, not on.

 

[adonisito]

30/40 is not terminal and £1200 is too much but keep your eye on it. When I had this I went round to HSS, hired a damp meter for the morning and did it myself.

 

[tonyidle]

If yours are Seitz windows they are easily removed & re-sealed. Seitz windows as supplied have a rubber seal built-in that compresses against the bodywork. Eventually it can leak. If you remove the window inner frame you need someone outside the van to prevent the window itself falling out (been there, done that. A handy tree caught mine). Once out a quick clean of frame & contacted bodywork plus new strip butyl mastic round the outer contact area is all that's needed before re-fitting.

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[Revolvor]

If yours are Seitz windows they are easily removed & re-sealed........

Yes they are. I'd assumed it's not rocket science to remove and re-seal them. Thank you.

Today, when it was raining, I went at looked at the locker from the inside and could see water beginning to pool along the exposed rubber seal. That makes me even more sure that is the source of the water. I will cure the leak and then hope it all dries out with time.
A gutter strip above the window will at least divert the majority of the water away from the window and locker.
I plan to get a damp meter to check progress for myself from time to time.

Thanks to all for your comments.
John

 

[Ex-caravantugger]

Hi. MMM January 2017 has a project "refurbishing a side locker" page 153. This may be of use.

 

[TheBig1]

resealing a window is a simple diy task and on average takes 1 to 1 1/2 hours and £5 in materials. so £150 is more than generous. I would also remove and reseal the locker door and frame, but door rubbers on some lockers are hard to source

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