D+ Source on 2018 Fiat Ducato Based Adria Twin

Alesupper

Alesupper

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Adria Twin 600 SP
Hi All, I have no voltage on my D+ cable going into my EBL208S. Does anyone know where this is fed from and also the location of the fuse? This is on a 2018 Fiat Ducato based Adria Twin. Please see attached photos. I presume that this is the D+ relay because the green wire goes to the D+ input on the EBL208S (pin 16). TIA.

relay1.jpg
relay2.jpg

EBL208S Wiring Diagram.jpg
 
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The d+ will only work with engine running, have you tried that?
 
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👍 hopefully someone will know more about it on here then.
 
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I have found the attached document from another thread (https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/ducato-x290-wiring.188788/) on this forum and it suggests that Pin 13 on the 15 pin connector located in the RH side B-Post is the D+ feed. The attached document suggests that this is on a 5A fuse. I Have looked through the dashboard fuse box and found a 5A fuse that is blown, so hopefully this is the source of the problem. Unfortunately I don't have any spare 5A mini blade fuses so I will get one tomorrow and try it out. I will report back.
 

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Alesupper said:
Hi All, I have no voltage on my D+ cable
Click to expand...
Hi..
The d+ as we refer to it does not necessarily have to have a voltage present..
On a ford transit I had the d+ provided for the converter was a ground switching signal...
You could use this to power a relay coil..which in turn could then provide a 12 volt feed to power circuts which were required to be engine run actuated..
Hope I've explained that OK.:xThumb:
Andy
 
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andy63 said:
Hi..
The d+ as we refer to it does not necessarily have to have a voltage present..
On a ford transit I had the d+ provided for the converter was a ground switching signal...
You could use this to power a relay coil..which in turn could then provide a 12 volt feed to power circuts which were required to be engine run actuated..
Hope I've explained that OK.:xThumb:
Andy
Click to expand...
If you look at the wiring diagram look like the D1 input is +12Vs.
 
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Alesupper said:
it suggests that Pin 13 on the 15 pin connector located in the RH side B-Post is the D+ feed.
Click to expand...
It says it's the ignition. Maybe they are being inaccurate and it really is the D+, but best to check, it's important for the split charge relay trigger (Pin 16 of the EBL).

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NicM said:
If you look at the wiring diagram look like the D1 input is +12Vs.
Click to expand...
Quick look at the wiring dig..
But wherever the d+ positive 12v feed comes from to the hab power supply it will still originate from the base vehicle wiring.. and if that fails then the 12v d+ signal to the hab side fails as well..
 
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Hi Andy

You have explained that perfectly thank you. Very helpful.

Alesupper

andy63 said:
Hi..
The d+ as we refer to it does not necessarily have to have a voltage present..
On a ford transit I had the d+ provided for the converter was a ground switching signal...
You could use this to power a relay coil..which in turn could then provide a 12 volt feed to power circuts which were required to be engine run actuated..
Hope I've explained that OK.:xThumb:
Andy
Click to expand...
 
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Hi All, I am please and relieved to tell you that the problem was a blown fuse. The fuse in question was a 5A fuse located in the dashboard fuse panel. This fuse must supply 12v to the D+ Relay and that is why the EBL didn't kick in when the engine was started. I think that this fuse has been blown since before we have owned this van because the outside step now automatically retracts when I start the engine. This has never happened since we have owned the van. So basically our leisure battery has never been getting charged whilst the engine is running. I hadn't really noticed this because we have 2 x 120W solar panels which keep the battery topped up. I only noticed it now because the new LiFePO4 battery has a bluetooth BMS and I could see that zero current was going to the battery when the engine was running.
In case people are wondering, the EBL on our van supplies 13-14 amps to the leisure battery, so I am going to see how I get on without a B2B for now, especially because we have solar.
Thanks for your help everyone.
 
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This thread helped me resolve our fridge and rear view not working from engine. Gas would also not turn on without EHU.

Talk of D+ made me look elsewhere as the fuses in the dashboard panel we all ok.

Stupidly i had not looked at Sargent PSU unit where there were to 15 fuses, at 13. One was blwn but both related to the fridge and camera.

Phew, think we csn now carry on up to Scotland.
 
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Alesupper said:
Hi All, I am please and relieved to tell you that the problem was a blown fuse. The fuse in question was a 5A fuse located in the dashboard fuse panel. This fuse must supply 12v to the D+ Relay and that is why the EBL didn't kick in when the engine was started. I think that this fuse has been blown since before we have owned this van because the outside step now automatically retracts when I start the engine. This has never happened since we have owned the van. So basically our leisure battery has never been getting charged whilst the engine is running. I hadn't really noticed this because we have 2 x 120W solar panels which keep the battery topped up. I only noticed it now because the new LiFePO4 battery has a bluetooth BMS and I could see that zero current was going to the battery when the engine was running.
In case people are wondering, the EBL on our van supplies 13-14 amps to the leisure battery, so I am going to see how I get on without a B2B for now, especially because we have solar.
Thanks for your help everyone.
Click to expand...
We are having a similar issue with our fridge not working on 12v while driving and also the cab battery meter not working. Both faults occurred as we came off the ferry last week.
I have checked the fridges pcb board and that’s ok, I have checked the fuses on the battery and the electrblok and all are good. I will have a look for the 5 amp fuse later today, fingers crossed.

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I thought I had, but I now realise the engine wasn’t running. I need to have a look at it again today. Thanks for your advice.
 
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Jim Schush said:
I have checked the fridges pcb board and that’s ok, I have checked the fuses on the battery and the electrblok and all are good
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Did you check the 20A fuse near the starter battery? That's the one that supplies the fridge on 12V, and also the cab battery meter on the control panel. There should be 3 fuses, a big 50A fuse, a small 2A or 5A for the D+ supply, and a 20A fuse for the fridge 12V heater element supply.

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autorouter said:
Did you check the 20A fuse near the starter battery? That's the one that supplies the fridge on 12V, and also the cab battery meter on the control panel. There should be 3 fuses, a big 50A fuse, a small 2A or 5A for the D+ supply, and a 20A fuse for the fridge 12V heater element supply.
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I went up again and checked everything again and all fuses ok.
Had a closer look at the EBL unit and on removing block 2 connector which feeds the battery monitor and the 12v D+ fridge I found scorch marks on the first connector (see attached photos).
The connector broke off whilst I was inspecting it.
So I need to find a replacement lok n Mate connector and I have contacted a repairer to see what they suggest about repairing the Ebl.
201D897C-2935-487C-BD71-10B900B97B9A.jpeg
 
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That pin carries the power for the fridge 12V heater element, while the engine is running. On mine it's 14.4A, which is very near the 15A limit of the pin. If it's not absolutely 100% perfect then a slight resistance develops. That causes heat, which causes further degradation and further increased resistance. The eventual result is what you see here.

I usually get Mate'N'Lok connectors from 12VoltPlanet, but they don't seem to have the 5-way one. It's available from CPC, but a minimum quantity of 5. That's only the plastic connector shell, you also need to buy the pins, which crimp on the wire then slide into the shell until it clicks locked.
 
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autorouter said:
That pin carries the power for the fridge 12V heater element, while the engine is running. On mine it's 14.4A, which is very near the 15A limit of the pin. If it's not absolutely 100% perfect then a slight resistance develops. That causes heat, which causes further degradation and further increased resistance. The eventual result is what you see here.

I usually get Mate'N'Lok connectors from 12VoltPlanet, but they don't seem to have the 5-way one. It's available from CPC, but a minimum quantity of 5. That's only the plastic connector shell, you also need to buy the pins, which crimp on the wire then slide into the shell until it clicks locked.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your help, I am going to send the unit to A & N for repair when we get back from our next trip. Every days a learning day when you have a motorhome.
 
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I contacted A & N and explained that in addition to the fridge not working on 12v, the 12v cab battery was not registering any voltage on the Lt display. Like your suggestion above he advised me to check the 20a fuse near the starter battery.
I’ve just been up and checked all the fuses I can using the continuity setting on the multimeter and they are all ok.
The vehicle is a 2018 Dethleffs and before I remove the Ebl, I am thinking of getting a mobile technician round to check I have not missed anything.
I had a fridge related problem in 2022 and I was advised to send the Ebl away for repair and when it was returned with no faults it turned out some external connectors at the side of the Ebl had melted so needed replacing.
Last year the fridge failed and that was the PCB board.
The coincidence on these similar faults is on each occasion they have occurred within a day or so of returning from Europe after we get off the ferry.
I’m still scratching my but I’m sure with time and possibly money I will get to the bottom of it.
 
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Have you confirmed that 12v is getting to the EBL main connection on the rear of the unit from the starter battery , in case there is a supply wiring fault after the fuses at the starter battery.

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The last thing I checked, with the van running I plugged the multimeter into the vehicle positive and the other into the middle negative. The reading was just over 14v going into the EBL.
I’m not sure whether it’s safe for me check the output on the EBL as it as occurred to me that the scorched area on Block 2 might be affecting conductivity!
I’m sure someone might provide me with some guidance on this.
 
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Block 2, the 5-way connector, is an input into the EBL. That wire to Pin1 comes directly from the starter battery, usually via a 20A fuse very near the starter battery - it's the supply for the fridge 12V heater element. The other wires are the negative fridge supply, the D+ and two thin sensor wires for the EBL to measure the voltage of the leisure battery.

Note that exactly the same amps goes out of the EBL on either Pin1 or Pin4 of Block 1. Those pins look to be OK, so maybe it's just a slightly defective pin that's overheated as I mentioned earlier.

I see that both Pin1 and Pin4 of Block1 are both used. That is unusual, it's intended that only one or the other is used for the fridge. However the unused one can still be an output, but I've never seen it used before, it's not a good idea, I don't know what it is powering.

Basically there's two fridge relays inside the EBL, and the installer gets to choose which relay is used. One relay can't be powered from the leisure battery when the engine is stopped. Most people don't miss that facility anyway. The other relay can be powered from the leisure battery when the engine is stopped, provided the fuse labelled 'Kompr/AES Kuhlschrank' (= Compressor/AES Fridge) is inserted in the slot.

The problem with doing that is that the supply, coming in through Block2 Pin1, is maxed out already with the fridge heater element amps (about 14A). Any additional output on the other relay will draw power through that pin, which may be the reason your pin has burnt out.

One simple test is to turn the fridge onto 12V manually (with the engine stopped). It may or may not work depending on which pin is wired. If it does work, pulling out the Kompr/AES Kuhlshrank fuse should stop the fridge working. Then you know which relay the fridge uses.,and you can tell which pin of the 4-way Block 1 it uses. If it works through the fuse when the engine is stopped, it's going through Block1 Pin4. If It doesn't work at all when the engine is stopped, it's going through Block1 Pin1.

The other pin of the two is powering whatever it is that is being powered through the other fridge relay, apart from the fridge.

I see that it's an EBL 119. All this is is detailed in the wiring diagram at the end of the manual
 
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Thanks autorouter for your detailed reply,
I have to confess that I haven’t checked the Ebl power input in the right place!
I am going to check Block 2 pin 1 to see if there is any voltage going into the ebl with the engine running ( I will also try and remove the scorched terminal pin and give it a clean) I also note that on the schematics it shows a 2 a fuse on the D+ feed, I have checked all fuses near the battery, a 5 amp fuse in the dash area and they are all fine, I cannot see a 2 amp fuse.
Thanks for your time and patience on this issue.
 
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Jim Schush , I think you should find 12v at pin 1 with or without the engine running as the switching is done internally through the EBL for the fridge HC operation , you could check pin 3 though , with the engine running , to confirm a D+ input is present when the engine is running .( that would also confirm that the D+ fuse is ok)
 
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GeoffnDee said:
I think you should find 12v at pin 1 with or without the engine running as the switching is done internally through the EBL for the fridge HC operation , you could check pin 3 though , with the engine running , to confirm a D+ input is present when the engine is running .( that would also confirm that the D+ fuse is ok)
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Yes, Block2 Pin1 is the input, permanently connected to the starter battery, usually by a 20A fuse. That power is switched by the two fridge relays, going out on Block 1 Pin1 and Pin 4. The relays are triggered by the D+ signal, which comes in on Block2 Pin3, and outputs to the fridge on Block1 Pin2.
 
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