Comfortmatic Breakdown. (1 Viewer)

[pacman]

Unable. to chage any gear and have an error message Check Transmission See Handbook. Managed to get off motorway and park fairly safely, currently sat just off junction 1c M90 waiting for breakdown callout.
Anything I can do in the meantime to self assist?

 

[JockandRita]

Hi Pacman. I'm really sorry to hear that you are stranded. Unfortunately, I know nothing of the Comfortmatic gearbox, preferring good old fashioned manuals myself.

Have a read of this whilst waiting for recovery, especially the posts by dunnah01, who seems to have a decent knowledge of the robotic gearboxes. It may just be a matter of adjustment/recalibration, rather than something more drastic. Fingers crossed it is minor.

Is this the end?

I feel like I have had a punch in the guts. In September, our trip to Ireland was cut short due to the Fiat Comfortmatic gearbox unable to select 6th gear. The Carlisle NEVAT have so far proved to be not as on the ball as I would have liked. I have spoken with the poor receptionist and she...

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

Good luck getting sorted.

Jock.

 

[funflair]

I suppose you could try removing the negative battery terminal for a few minutes and then replacing.

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[Carpmart]

Switch off ignition, remove key, lock door, wait a couple of mins, ignition back on, wait for coil light to go out and start engine.

If that doesn’t work, then ignition off and wait as above, then pump accelerator five times, all the way to the floor, then ignition off again then hold accelerator on the floor, other foot on brake, ignition on, wait for coil lights to go out and then start.

If that doesn’t work, 10 mins with the negative terminal off the battery will reset the ECU’s.

 

[Spriddler]

Switch off ignition, remove key, lock door, wait a couple of mins, ignition back on, wait for coil light to go out and start engine.

If that doesn’t work, then ignition off and wait as above, then pump accelerator five times, all the way to the floor, then ignition off again then hold accelerator on the floor, other foot on brake, ignition on, wait for coil lights to go out and then start.

You put the ignition key in,
You take the ignition key out.
Then you lock all the doors
After getting out.
Then you go back in again
As that should sort it out.......

Ohhhhh, Comfortmatic reset.
Ohhhhh, Comfortmatic reset.
Ohhhhh, Comfortmatic reset.
That's what it's all about!


Seriously, it baffles me why with today's clever electronic vehicle systems the designers don't provide a simple 'Reset' button.

 

[pacman]

Many thanks for all of your helpful suggestions. We were very lucky that the AA man turned up 25 minutes after our recovery call (impressed). After about 20 minutes he managed to clear the two faults and it all works now. May have to invest in AN OBD reader to allow me to do this myself or try the Comfortmatic Reset.

Safely arrived at our destination in Melrose so now time to walk the dog before a well deserved glass of something.

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[DerryW]

Some excellent tips here today. I for one will be cutting and pasting @ Carpmart response and adding it to the handy tips folder which I keep on the shelf. “Just in case”

 

[JockandRita]

Some excellent tips here today. I for one will be cutting and pasting @ Carpmart response and adding it to the handy tips folder which I keep on the shelf. “Just in case”

But not Spriddler's efforts though? ......................

You put the ignition key in,
You take the ignition key out.
Then you lock all the doors
After getting out.
Then you go back in again
As that should sort it out.......

Ohhhhh, Comfortmatic reset.
Ohhhhh, Comfortmatic reset.
Ohhhhh, Comfortmatic reset.
That's what it's all about!

pacman. Glad to see that you were easily sorted, and in such a short timescale too. Nice one.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Carpmart]

Switch off ignition, remove key, lock door, wait a couple of mins, ignition back on, wait for coil light to go out and start engine.

If that doesn’t work, then ignition off and wait as above, then pump accelerator five times, all the way to the floor, then ignition off again then hold accelerator on the floor, other foot on brake, ignition on, wait for coil lights to go out and then start.

If that doesn’t work, 10 mins with the negative terminal off the battery will reset the ECU’s.

I’ve had a few agile (comformatic) gearbox issues, hence a little knowledge…

I feel, based on the cut and paste comment, that I should add a couple of clarifications I’ve noticed I omitted!

With the second option of reset, you pump the accelerator five times with the ignition fully on and with the selector in gear. You then switch the ignition off (I was taking the key out) then back on again, wait for the light to go out on the dash then start as described above… just wanted to clarify this..

Just as an extra point, Agile/Comformatic gearbox should always be stopped and stored in gear, never neutral.

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[DBK]

Many thanks for all of your helpful suggestions. We were very lucky that the AA man turned up 25 minutes after our recovery call (impressed). After about 20 minutes he managed to clear the two faults and it all works now. May have to invest in AN OBD reader to allow me to do this myself or try the Comfortmatic Reset.

Safely arrived at our destination in Melrose so now time to walk the dog before a well deserved glass of something.

Glad it seems sorted. Do you know what the fault codes were, in the sense of what had happened?

 

[pacman]

Glad it seems sorted. Do you know what the fault codes were, in the sense of what had happened?

Thanks. There were 3 error codes displayed. 1 x Gearshift Module Mechanical Fault and 2 x Voltage Out Of Range. All deleted and all OK since

 

[DBK]

Switch off ignition, remove key, lock door, wait a couple of mins, ignition back on, wait for coil light to go out and start engine.

If that doesn’t work, then ignition off and wait as above, then pump accelerator five times, all the way to the floor, then ignition off again then hold accelerator on the floor, other foot on brake, ignition on, wait for coil lights to go out and then start.

If that doesn’t work, 10 mins with the negative terminal off the battery will reset the ECU’s.

Thank you for this, including your extra clarification later. But why the negative cable? Wouldn't disconnecting the positive have just the same effect?

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[Lenny HB]

Thank you for this, including your extra clarification later. But why the negative cable? Wouldn't disconnecting the positive have just the same effect?

The neg terminal has an easy quick release battery terminal. To disconnect the positive one it involves a bit more work due to a busbar and fuses mounted on top of the battery.

 

[JockandRita]

Thank you for this, including your extra clarification later. But why the negative cable? Wouldn't disconnecting the positive have just the same effect?

The neg terminal has an easy quick release battery terminal. To disconnect the positive one it involves a bit more work due to a busbar and fuses mounted on top of the battery.

Also, disconnecting the negative terminal first rather than the positive terminal, is much safer, as there is less chance of creating sparks, or of shortening of the 12v system.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Just smiffy]

But not Spriddler's efforts though? ......................



pacman. Glad to see that you were easily sorted, and in such a short timescale too. Nice one.

Cheers,

Jock.

For info Jock, I can’t see spriddlers post and quite a few others can’t too. He has a fair few on ignore…. You must be special…

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[Bessy765]

If you disconnect the positive terminal first if you should happen to touch anything l with a spanner whilst it is in contact with the positive terminal you risk a dangerous short. If you undo the negative and touch anything metal no problem. Most modern vans have a quick release clamp.

 

[KiwiKampers]

I’ve had a few agile (comformatic) gearbox issues, hence a little knowledge…

I feel, based on the cut and paste comment, that I should add a couple of clarifications I’ve noticed I omitted!

With the second option of reset, you pump the accelerator five times with the ignition fully on and with the selector in gear. You then switch the ignition off (I was taking the key out) then back on again, wait for the light to go out on the dash then start as described above… just wanted to clarify this..

Just as an extra point, Agile/Comformatic gearbox should always be stopped and stored in gear, never neutral.

Do you have to be standing on your head and whistling a happy tune as you do all this, or is it the Mornington Crescent Version?

 

[JockandRita]

For info Jock, I can’t see spriddlers post and quite a few others can’t too. He has a fair few on ignore…. You must be special…

Really Garry?

Jock.

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[dunnah01]

If there is no obvious mechanical or electrical damage then it's probably worth trying a clutch reset.

You'll need to find somebody with MultiECUScan (MES) to reset the clutch Kiss Point. This requires the software to calculate the current clutch degradation index. The clutch degradation index calculation procedure is required by the Mechanical Transmission Automatized (MTA) control unit because it stores characteristic values for each specific clutch in its Eeprom, taking into account normal
clutch wear over time.
This procedure also allows the MTA gearbox control unit to calculate the clutch transmissibility index to set the torque demand from accelerator pedal percentage. This is an accurate dynamic test in MES so you need a length of straight and quiet road ( I think it is a static test in Fiat Examiner SMART/Plus intended to be completed during vehicle production)

The procedure in MES is :
1. Run statistical data deletion
2. Run the clutch self-calibration enable procedure to set the new clutch kiss point
3. Run the Production/service final-calibration to set the self learning values for gear selection and enagement and regulate the clutch plunger

 

[Spriddler]

If there is no obvious mechanical or electrical damage then it's probably worth trying a clutch reset.

You'll need to find somebody with MultiECUScan (MES) to reset the clutch Kiss Point. This requires the software to calculate the current clutch degradation index. The clutch degradation index calculation procedure is required by the Mechanical Transmission Automatized (MTA) control unit because it stores characteristic values for each specific clutch in its Eeprom, taking into account normal
clutch wear over time.
This procedure also allows the MTA gearbox control unit to calculate the clutch transmissibility index to set the torque demand from accelerator pedal percentage. This is an accurate dynamic test in MES so you need a length of straight and quiet road ( I think it is a static test in Fiat Examiner SMART/Plus intended to be completed during vehicle production)

The procedure in MES is :
1. Run statistical data deletion
2. Run the clutch self-calibration enable procedure to set the new clutch kiss point
3. Run the Production/service final-calibration to set the self learning values for gear selection and enagement and regulate the clutch plunger

And that's progress.
On my Mini I turned the clutch adjustment nut until it stopped then backed it off a turn.

 

[bjandlin]

I've not experienced a comfortmatic but have a Renault Kangoo with their laughingly auto box.
A DPO I think they call it.
When first bought second hand the shift was all over the place. I was told "that's how they are" Not happy with that it went to an auto box specialist who concluded that the box itself was ok but, the "brain" in the control has an algarythme that learn your driving style.
He reset the brain to factory spec & it's so much better, not perfect but on a good day it works well.
I do have to use manual shift occasionally when it has a moment though.
It would seem the comfortmatic could need a similar reset.

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[dunnah01]

I've not experienced a comfortmatic but have a Renault Kangoo with their laughingly auto box.
A DPO I think they call it.
When first bought second hand the shift was all over the place. I was told "that's how they are" Not happy with that it went to an auto box specialist who concluded that the box itself was ok but, the "brain" in the control has an algarythme that learn your driving style.
He reset the brain to factory spec & it's so much better, not perfect but on a good day it works well.
I do have to use manual shift occasionally when it has a moment though.
It would seem the comfortmatic could need a similar reset.

The Smart Roadster robotic manual gearbox clutch also benefits from the kiss point reset. I thought an engine mount had gone until I reset the kiss point using Xentry/DAS and it was like a new car afterwards

 

[Carpmart]

The Smart Roadster robotic manual gearbox clutch also benefits from the kiss point reset. I thought an engine mount had gone until I reset the kiss point using Xentry/DAS and it was like a new car afterwards

As did my E60 M5 too!

 

[IRHP]

You put the ignition key in,
You take the ignition key out.
Then you lock all the doors
After getting out.
Then you go back in again
As that should sort it out.......

Ohhhhh, Comfortmatic reset.
Ohhhhh, Comfortmatic reset.
Ohhhhh, Comfortmatic reset.
That's what it's all about!


Seriously, it baffles me why with today's clever electronic vehicle systems the designers don't provide a simple 'Reset' button.

You forgot to do the Hokey Cokey

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