Chausson 640 interior lighting problem

[Jewellbags]

Certainly not a serious issue but wondered if someone would have any tips. Our drop down bed has some main lights underneath it when, fully up , and switched on will come on . All of sudden they don’t switch on and all other electrics seem to work fine . I’ll check fuses etc when I get some daylight but thought I’d put it out there .....

 

[Sasbo]

Hi, I've had this on my new 530 and found it was the connection block on the side of the bed which had moved as the screws had come slightly loose.

If you lift the mattress you will see two cross head screws. Push up the connection block on the side of the bed and re-tighten the screws.

This worked on mine but then the connection block worked loose again so I bolted a small piece of aluminium angle underneath the connection block and that solved the problem.

Hope this helps.

 

[Jewellbags]

Thanks for this . I looked at the blocks and they all seem firm and making contact with the two silver pins (which I assume complete the circuit ). Still no joy though

 

[M-J]

Are they LED, had a similar problem with over cupboard lighting so dealer changed them all to LED and no problems since.

 

[Jewellbags]

Yep . LED. Convinced it’s a connection or fuse issue

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[HandyAndy]

more than one light unit I assume and they both stopped at the same time?? If not could be just a bulb failure. Can you swap bulb with another light unit from a different know good part of the van and re test?

 

[Yorkshire Puds]

its usually the micro switch either worn because the bed didn’t go completely to the top and was rattling a bit or simply not making full contact correctly.

its a common fault apparently sometimes the straps are uneven so again not closing fully on one side.

Check the ceiling above the bed on one end. There may be a sensor mechanism. About the size of three cigarette packets. Make sure this bit is unobstructed and the little black push switch is able to close. Unless this closes the lights won’t go on

 

[Jewellbags]

Hi . It’s 4 lights and all at the same time . Last night I was getting some “flickers” off them when raising the bed up and down and now nothing , hence why I think maybe a fuse or switch issue .

 

[Jewellbags]

its usually the micro switch either worn because the bed didn’t go completely to the top and was rattling a bit or simply not making full contact correctly.

its a common fault apparently sometimes the straps are uneven so again not closing fully on one side.

Check the ceiling above the bed on one end. There may be a sensor mechanism. About the size of three cigarette packets. Make sure this bit is unobstructed and the little black push switch is able to close. Unless this closes the lights won’t go on

There is one black switch , like you say , and two silver contact points . The contact points are well connected but I haven’t checked the black switch yet .

 

[HandyAndy]

ahh then if it was flickering while moving then that should point you in the right direction.. I think you are on the right .... "track"

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[Mickthemove]

Our lights under the bed are very temperamental and each time it has been in for warranty work, those bloomin lights are on the "to-do" list. Each time lowdhams say it is sorted....

 

[rob0114]

I'm sitting in the dealers right now waiting for them to fix some major issues with my windows (627GA) - also have the internal lights issue.

Service manager took a look and said the plastic runners were broken & would sort it. Connections were out of alignment as a result.

I said it's been like that since day one & we resorted to wedging a woolly hat between the bed and wall to stop it knocking!

No he says, he would have noticed that before-I replied really? check your emails & you will find it all documented - no comeback after that!

 

[AXO66]

Hi . It’s 4 lights and all at the same time . Last night I was getting some “flickers” off them when raising the bed up and down and now nothing , hence why I think maybe a fuse or switch issue .

are light in our 510 flickers slightly when lowering the bed.

Always thought it was the bed motor having first dibs on the leccy from the battery , which does need replacing .

 

[AXO66]

I'm sitting in the dealers right now waiting for them to fix some major issues with my windows (627GA) - also have the internal lights issue.

Service manager took a look and said the plastic runners were broken & would sort it. Connections were out of alignment as a result.

I said it's been like that since day one & we resorted to wedging a woolly hat between the bed and wall to stop it knocking!

No he says, he would have noticed that before-I replied really? check your emails & you will find it all documented - no comeback after that!

Plastic runners?
Our 510 has metal runners ( will have to look very closely next time in the van). There is a stud that is fixed to the bed that runs in them.
the stud is threaded with a nut on it to allow adjustment , presumably. Behind the nut is a washer and spring to absorb movement.... only when we’re travelling of course

 

[rob0114]

should clarify - metal runners but with plastic inserts!

should also say my van does not have a flexible cable but connections which are made when bed fully raised so lights can only come on when bed up (or not in my case!)

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[AXO66]

should clarify - metal runners but with plastic inserts!

should also say my van does not have a flexible cable but connections which are made when bed fully raised so lights can only come on when bed up (or not in my case!)

Yes ours has plastic or nylon inserts at the end of the stud in the runner.
We have the coiled cable running up a channel by the bed. so full electric wires into the bed and lighting systems.Need to keep an eye on it re bunching up and also checking if any chaffing developing.

 

[rob0114]

Update

Dealer replaced the plastic rollers with nylon rollers - lighting sorted.

Check your drop down bed for any movement as this would indicate broken plastic runners.

 

[Sandancers]

Coincidentally I am working on the raising and lowering system on our Chausson Flash 10 bed right now. Long story but I have taken the Project2000 control system out and gone for a simple up / down push button. Anyway, I have been amazed by the number of waco (?) wire connectors that Project2000 have used in the wiring. Obviously something to do with the way the looms are manufactured for the bed, but there were connectors in the most obscure places. One I found had a loose wire.

If I were you I'd drop the bed half way down, take the mattress off and switch the lights on, get someone looking underneath the bed and then waggle the wires that you can see, especially the ones which look to be going to the lights. If the lights start working or flickering your probably in the right area of a bad connection.

Our bed has the curly wire going to it. This has three wires, a thick positive (brown) and thick negative (blue) and a thin green / yellow which is the power to the lights.

 

[andy63]

Long story but I have taken the Project2000 control system out and gone for a simple up / down push button.

Hi..I haven't gone down that route as my bed generally behaves its self and if it goes out if kilter its always easily reset by taking it up to the upper cut out switch..
When I looked the lower and intermediate cut out positions are set by the project 2000 control.. If you get rid of that what controls the lower limit of the bed travel..
The only other cut out I found was the one that prevents any movement unless the bed is pulled fully back on its slide.. I assume you kept that in circuit...
Cheers for any info.. Just in case I resort to same idea?
Andy..

 

[Sandancers]

For the lower travel limit, I added two limit switches poking down slightly past the edges of the bed, not very obvious to see. But it means that if the limits hit anything, for instance if you forget to remove a seat back, or the bed comes all the way down to touch the bottom seat base then the bed stops. The top limit and belt buckle switch stays the same.

Believe me, on my bed there is a LARGE amount of wire connections hidden in the depths of the bed frame.

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[andy63]

For the lower travel limit, I added two limit switches poking down slightly past the edges of the bed, not very obvious to see. But it means that if the limits hit anything, for instance if you forget to remove a seat back, or the bed comes all the way down to touch the bottom seat base then the bed stops. The top limit and belt buckle switch stays the same.

Believe me, on my bed there is a LARGE amount of wire connections hidden in the depths of the bed frame.

Cheers.. So your lower limit switches are operated by contact with the rear seat ?
I have taken to more often than not using my bed in the intermediate position and using the ladder.. Especially on one night stop overs.. That way I don't have to rotate the front seats.. Just slide them fully fwd and tilt the backs fwd.
The seat belt cut out on mine used small wires into the project 2000 control box.. I'm assuming that would have to be rewired more substantially as it would have to be wires in series with the motor ?
I'm just curious as I wasn't sure what controlled the lower and intermediate stops on the beds as supplied.. I thought it had to be some sort of revolution counter on the motor combined with the project 2000 processor..
Andy.

 

[Sandancers]

On the Project2000 bed it is (as far as I read) a rotation counter, optical. That's the main purpose of the top limit, give the optical counter a starting point, then the next program step is so many counts and so on. But I found on our bed that the first power relay did not have a flywheel diode on it, which I think accounts for the occasional mis-behaviour of the electronics.

On my system I have used really meaty relays to control the power to the motor, which I think is taking around 10A therefore all the limit switches etc are low power in the relay control circuits.