Chassis rust removal question?

[Eddiex]

Our 2003 Hymer B584 has a double floor Alko chassis with what appears to be an added section at the rear where the stabilisers are fitted. This section is is quiet rusty (the Alko bit beyond towards the front of the vehicle is rust free)

Question to any DIY ers - What's the best way of tackling this? I'm thinking attacking it with a selection of hand wire brushes and wire brushes on a drill. Next I would apply a rust treatment and then a top coat. I'm considering maybe a Hammerite product.

Do you think an angle grinder with wire attachments might be too aggressive?

Any thoughts

Many thanks

 

[Richard n Ann]

Wire brush it off and then blast lithium grease on it, you can buy packs of aerosol cans on ebay. Any paint or waxoyl will dry and then flake off after 2 years. I'm speaking from experience with my Land Rover Defender. Also got it on the scooter rack underneath the van, 7 years now and spot on

Waxoyl may work if you spend days taking the chassis back to shiny bare metal.

 

[Eddiex]

Wire brush it off and then blash lithium grease on it, you can buy packs of aerosol cans on ebay. Any paint or waxoyl will dry and then flake off after 2 years. I'm speaking from experience with my Land Rover Defender. Also got it on the scooter rack underneath the van, 7 years now and spot on

Waxoyl may work if you spend days taking the chassis back to shiny bare metal.

Hadn't considered lithium grease. Just a thought - (not doubting the effectiveness of the grease preventing more rust) wouldn't the grease end up being a magnet for all sorts of mud, dirt and other random detritus so the chassis rails and rear tow bar mounting rail that is visible at the rear of the van being a big mess!?

 

[Figaro]

Personally I'd wire brush, treat with Hammerite Kurust then two coats of black Hammerite

 

[Richard n Ann]

Hadn't considered lithium grease. Just a thought - (not doubting the effectiveness of the grease preventing more rust) wouldn't the grease end up being a magnet for all sorts of mud, dirt and other random detritus so the chassis rails and rear tow bar mounting rail that is visible at the rear of the van being a big mess!?

Yes it doesn't look good, it just goes dirty looking but never sets properly ends up the consistency of cheese

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[Eddiex]

This is what I have at the moment - rear cross bar.

 

[Eddiex]

Chassis rail at rear (running left to right to front of MH)

 

[Richard n Ann]

This is what I have at the moment - rear cross bar.


View attachment 541178

Hmm up to you there, paint will look a lot better but you'll have to keep re-doing it. Grease will look better than it does now if you get it on evenly.
Definitely grease for underneath.

I greased a part on my mum's car where the horn fitted on under the bonnet, 12 years later when I removed the horn the metal was as new. Got me hands dirty taking it off mind

 

[JohnFX]

I have used wire brush to remove the loose rust and then scraped the more heavy rust off. I then treated with two coats of AQUASTEEL and used wax oil with good effect.

 

[Ivory55]

Is a little compressor and a spot blaster expensive to hire, that would clean the metal up.

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[Gromett]

Have a look at Fluid film or Lanoguard. Both based on lanolin and creep into every crack and crevice. I have had great results on some tests I did with it.

In areas where they get a lot of spray you may need to reapply annually as it can be jetted off. But the creeping nature of it makes it a fantastic alternative to a thicker grease.

 

[Jamesh]

Wire brush, rust treatment and epoxy paint.

Won't need to do it again for 20 years.

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- Our 2Pk Epoxy Topcoat Boat & Marine Paint is a gloss coating especially developed to provide a durable coating in harsh marine environments. Call 0845 838 2225.

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Cheers James

 

[Stag man]

Dismantle what you can, this will deal with the corrosion between metal components which is very hard to eradicate and will undoubtedly lead to rust appearing later on.
Then you need to deal with the surface rust, this is ferrous oxide and needs converting to a stable compound.
Firstly I would get rid of all surface rust using the most aggressive wire wheel I could lay my hands on. Angle grinder, leccy drill, it doesn’t matter, what you are aiming for is the removal of everything down to base metal (a lousy dirty job).
Then treat with a converter (usually a mild phosphoric acid) lots of these available, this basically kills the ‘rust’, then several coatings as suggested above.
Good luck

 

[Eddiex]

Dismantle what you can, this will deal with the corrosion between metal components which is very hard to eradicate and will undoubtedly lead to rust appearing later on.
Then you need to deal with the surface rust, this is ferrous oxide and needs converting to a stable compound.
Firstly I would get rid of all surface rust using the most aggressive wire wheel I could lay my hands on. Angle grinder, leccy drill, it doesn’t matter, what you are aiming for is the removal of everything down to base metal (a lousy dirty job).
Then treat with a converter (usually a mild phosphoric acid) lots of these available, this basically kills the ‘rust’, then several coatings as suggested above.
Good luck

Wire brush, rust treatment and epoxy paint.

Won't need to do it again for 20 years.

2 Pack Epoxy Boat Marine Topcoat Paint | paints4trade.com

- Our 2Pk Epoxy Topcoat Boat & Marine Paint is a gloss coating especially developed to provide a durable coating in harsh marine environments. Call 0845 838 2225.

www.paints4trade.com

Cheers James

Thanks for the replies. I'm starting to formulate a plan!

First - remove the rear wind down stabilisers for better access to the chassis. Then I'm thinking angle grinder with various attachments and maybe a drill for fiddly bits.

Re the phosphorus acid (how much would I need for this kind of job?) - is that a brush on job and then once its dry I can then carry on with the epoxy paint?

Re that epoxy paint link above - do the 2 products need mixing - how is it used/aplied?

Many thanks

 

[Jamesh]

Thanks for the replies. I'm starting to formulate a plan!

First - remove the rear wind down stabilisers for better access to the chassis. Then I'm thinking angle grinder with various attachments and maybe a drill for fiddly bits.

Re the phosphorus acid (how much would I need for this kind of job?) - is that a brush on job and then once its dry I can then carry on with the epoxy paint?

Re that epoxy paint link above - do the 2 products need mixing - how is it used/aplied?

Many thanks

Yes just mix the two as prescribed usual 4-1, only mix as much as you need for the job, small batches if needed.

Cheers James

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[Flairy]

I wonder if you could remove it and get it galvanised ,they would clean it up first?

 

[the1andonly]

Dismantle what you can, this will deal with the corrosion between metal components which is very hard to eradicate and will undoubtedly lead to rust appearing later on.
Then you need to deal with the surface rust, this is ferrous oxide and needs converting to a stable compound.
Firstly I would get rid of all surface rust using the most aggressive wire wheel I could lay my hands on. Angle grinder, leccy drill, it doesn’t matter, what you are aiming for is the removal of everything down to base metal (a lousy dirty job).
Then treat with a converter

Above would be my advice then treat with fertan, spray or brush on. May need more than one application depending on rust thickness. Produces an organic complex blue black in colour. Used it for years a very good but expensive product in small qty. Doesn't do any damage unlike some acid treatments if used incorrectly. Readily available from local Chandler. Even spray inside box section. READ INSTRUCTIONS. Paint with preferred product or even hamerite and waxoyl. Then a barier coat eg waxoyl dinitrol or something else ive not used.

 

[Stag man]

I don’t normally promote any particular supplier but here is a site which you might find useful https://www.frost.co.uk/cleaner-degreaser-por15-marine-clean-3-78-litres/
They supply everything you might need (and more)
My advice would be -
Cleaner Degreaser
Metal Prep
POR 15 epoxy “paint” - comes ready mixed but is a bit messy
Top coat by brush, it puts on a heavier layer, 2 coats is even better.
And paint all bolt heads when reassembled to seal everything up.
Have a gander around the site as there is a really useful FAQ section which covers pretty much the task you have in mind

 

[Eddiex]

Thanks again for the helpful replies.

I've just had a read about the Fertan product (and others as the internet search tends to suggest loads of products!!) Seem soo be good for the job and gets better reviews than stuff like Jenolite.

I am familiar with the POR 15 products having used them on an old classic car to good effect and the Frost site is a good one.

I am leaning towards that at the moment although the Epoxy Marine coat paint seems at first glance to be an easier product to paint on (one application I am hoping?) once I've got rid of the flakey bits of rust. Not looking forward to that bit - laying on my back covered in rusty debris!