Cassette C200

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RogerW

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Has anyone had a problem with the arm that carries the round seal sticking?
I removed the arm underneath this arm. There didn't seem anything wrong with it. I then bent upwoods the seal arm which is quite flexible. This seemed to cure the problem but I have doubts whether this is a permanent cure.
 
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Put some silicone grease on ours and it's much smoother, I suppose it will need doing yearly. Failing that you can get a new mechanism for about 45 quid on ebay 👍

Edit: ours is C250 though 🤔
 
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Eunuch andAnn said:
Put some silicone grease on ours and it's much smoother, I suppose it will need doing yearly. Failing that you can get a new mechanism for about 45 quid on ebay 👍

Edit: ours is C250 though 🤔
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Or even a fresh up kit for not that much more.
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Replaced mine with fresh up kit, and sold old one on eBay as spares or repairs for £25.
 
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I am not 100% sure on your problem but a common issue on the handle moving the flap across and back used to be a Loose or fallen out screw on the mechanism. Accessed from outside, take out the cassette, look top right.
May not be your issue but was a common problem on one van we had. 👍
 
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they do jam solid if not maintained, and the best cure I have found is very hot water and bio washing liquid or powder. Submerge the entire mechanism in the hot water and dissolve the crud that is gluing it. Then lubricate with silicon spray. Redo the silicon as maintenance regularly and on the seal to keep it supple. Soaking a dried/distorted seal in boiling water will extend it's working life but it will fail again after a while. Just a trick to use to get you through a trip and fit a new one when home

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TheBig1 said:
they do jam solid if not maintained, and the best cure I have found is very hot water and bio washing liquid or powder. Submerge the entire mechanism in the hot water and dissolve the crud that is gluing it. Then lubricate with silicon spray. Redo the silicon as maintenance regularly and on the seal to keep it supple. Soaking a dried/distorted seal in boiling water will extend it's working life but it will fail again after a while. Just a trick to use to get you through a trip and fit a new one when home
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Nice cure, but , do you have a special place to store the soaking vessel when not being used :winky: , wouldn't want to get it mixed up with other crockery. :giggle:
Mike
 
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BouncyBoatFolk said:
Nice cure, but , do you have a special place to store the soaking vessel when not being used :winky: , wouldn't want to get it mixed up with other crockery. :giggle:
Mike
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fill the cassette with hot water, as it's the inside you want clean. If you strip out the mechanism, they fit in a big bucket. Otherwise, sit it in the bath for a soak. There is nothing in there that wasn't inside you recently

Why are people squeamish about a little bit of poo?
 
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As a fulltimer I have accelerated failure rates on all motorhome appliances and fittings and this is my experience with thetford cassettes.

They get gummed up very quickly with limescale. The best solution for this is to soak in very hot water with a very high concentration of citric acid. This clears it out really quickly, usually 2 goes through does it.
I do this in two ways. 1st I pour it into the bowl and around the bowl with the flap shut.
Then I do the full cassette pouring in from the big hole.

Preventative maintenance involves taking the mechanism out of the cassette periodically usually after a thorough clean (as above) and spraying the whole thing with silicon spray.

On the C200 the screw can come loose which as tonka said can be accessed from the outside and look in and it is at the top right (on mine). This tends to come lose and cause the handle to flap around freely. As yours has started working again I doubt it is this.

On a C250 Cassette the bit that breaks is the either the pole that goes from the handle down to the metal bar OR it is the cassette itself. I have had both of these fail on a couple of occasions.

BUT, in your case I would bet it is the mechanism has become gunged up with calcium and the citric acid then silicon spray will do the trick.

This is the citric acid I use.

This is the silicon spray

Ambersil 31631 Silicone Lubricant, 400 ml : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Ambersil 31631 Silicone Lubricant, 400 ml : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive
amzn.to

The silicon spray also gets used on the doors and window seals to prevent them sticking in really hot or really cold weather. I also treat the locks with them to stop them jamming or freezing. Excellent stuff.
 
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PS: I would put money on it being the calcium deposits having had this issue many times over the last 12 years. I know do a full clean regularly as I can spot the signs of it starting to happen by feel now.
 
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Stealaway said:
As above --- or even Vaseline will help lubricate the pivots and rubber seal
Click to expand...
Vaeline is petroleum gelly it will attack rubber seals.

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