Care of 2007 Iveco 3.0 ltr - best practice (1 Viewer)

[Andy Bramhall]

We recently bought a 2007 Niesmann-Bischoff Arto which is on an Iveco 3.0 ltr 160 bhp engine. It had done 24000 miles when we got it about 6 weeks ago.

This week was our first trip away to Wales and we did about 600 miles. On the return journey the engine fault light came on for the last couple of hours of the journey but then didn't come on again when engine was restarted later.

We had a very bad experience with our last car which was a Mitsubishi Grandis on a 2.0 ltr VW diesel engine (our first ever diesel). After about 50k miles it started going repeatedly into limp mode and there was clearly some issues with carbon deposits. Despite changing a few parts at considerable cost we never really got to the bottom of it and ended up having to get rid of the car.

All of that has made me really nervous of engine fault lights! I felt really gutted today when the light came on - thinking that we might end up in the same place with our van which we love.
I also worry that if there was a persistent problem we might not be able to sell the van and get our money back.

Obviously if the falut light returns then we can get the fault-code reading but for now...

How worried should we be about deposits in an engine that has only done 24k? Am I being stupid? Is this actually more likely to be something else?

I am really keen that we give the engine the best possible care and do whatever we can to avoid carbon deposits. How can we best do that? What could we do to shift any stuff that may already have built up?
Should we use fuel additives?
Does it make a big difference which fuel supplier you use? Is it worth paying for higher grade diesel?

I hear and read conflicting things about all this stuff - so would particularly like to know where can I find a definitive guide to best practice for care of this engine if it exists.

Many thanks for any help you can give.

Andy Bramhall

 

[The Wino]

I think a few will say use an addative some give it an Italian tune up ( rev it a lot) some don't bother and most don't know!!!!!. If there were definative advice everyone would do it hope it is ok on our last transit based one needed a new EGR at 35K miles

 

[Wildbill]

a run up Sutton bank every now and then in a ferly low gear a dam good thrashing diesels love to work hard
keeps the carbon deposit at bay
bill

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Lenny HB]

24k in 10 years means it's been standing around a lot not good the mechanics. An educated guess as it's been standing around a lot probably the EGR valve sticking.

 

[Andy Bramhall]

My other question is - who is it best to take this to?
I have been using a motorhome sales and service centre - but for something like this would I be better going to a Fiat service centre? Will they reglalry do motorhome conversions?

 

[gus-lopez]

My other question is - who is it best to take this to?
I have been using a motorhome sales and service centre - but for something like this would I be better going to a Fiat service centre? Will they reglalry do motorhome conversions?

Not necessarily but they would do vans with the same engine. Or even a commercial dealer if that was a closer option.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[MC 55 FUN]

We recently bought a 2007 Niesmann-Bischoff Arto which is on an Iveco 3.0 ltr 160 bhp engine. It had done 24000 miles when we got it about 6 weeks ago.

This week was our first trip away to Wales and we did about 600 miles. On the return journey the engine fault light came on for the last couple of hours of the journey but then didn't come on again when engine was restarted later.

We had a very bad experience with our last car which was a Mitsubishi Grandis on a 2.0 ltr VW diesel engine (our first ever diesel). After about 50k miles it started going repeatedly into limp mode and there was clearly some issues with carbon deposits. Despite changing a few parts at considerable cost we never really got to the bottom of it and ended up having to get rid of the car.

All of that has made me really nervous of engine fault lights! I felt really gutted today when the light came on - thinking that we might end up in the same place with our van which we love.
I also worry that if there was a persistent problem we might not be able to sell the van and get our money back.

Obviously if the falut light returns then we can get the fault-code reading but for now...

How worried should we be about deposits in an engine that has only done 24k? Am I being stupid? Is this actually more likely to be something else?

I am really keen that we give the engine the best possible care and do whatever we can to avoid carbon deposits. How can we best do that? What could we do to shift any stuff that may already have built up?
Should we use fuel additives?
Does it make a big difference which fuel supplier you use? Is it worth paying for higher grade diesel?

I hear and read conflicting things about all this stuff - so would particularly like to know where can I find a definitive guide to best practice for care of this engine if it exists.

Many thanks for any help you can give.

Andy Bramhall

Dose your fuel tank with some of this twice a year

http://www.oilem.com/archoil-ar6400-and-ar6400-d/

 

[funflair]

If you have just bought it and don't know the history for sure I would say get a full service and plug into a code reader see what the light is telling you,

Martin

 

[hchris]

If you're at the Peterborough show I have a code reader in the van will be here to about 12

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Andy Bramhall]

That's kind of you - thanks. But I'm not at the show. Really appreciate the offer though.

 

[Andy Bramhall]

Not necessarily but they would do vans with the same engine. Or even a commercial dealer if that was a closer option.

Sorry to ask a stupid question - but what is a commercial dealer?

 

[funflair]

Sorry to ask a stupid question - but what is a commercial dealer?

Vans and trucks rather than cars, North East Truck And Van around you most likely.

Martin

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Silver-Fox]

The base vehicle is a commercial vehicle it's designed to drive thousands of miles.

I would give it a full on service if you have no history or know the previous owner.

As has been said every now and then drive changing up through the gears near on into the red on the rev counter. This cleans your cat converter and any related valves.

But have the service done first if it's got a timing belt get that changed as well, particularly if it's been standing a long time. It's not just mileage that affects them they degrade with age.

 

[Silver-Fox]

Also try and find a local Indy garage you can trust best one recommendation

 

[Wildbill]

Most motor homes are built on commercial chasses theas engines like to work and work hard if thay don't get a good run at leas every two week or at leas once a month they will soot up.
When I say good run nothing less than 100mls none stop.
A good quality injector system cleaner every now and then will help if used on a long run for full tank.
Don't put it in unless you know you will use a full tank on a journey or trip as the longer it sits in the tank it loses it potency
bill

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[scotjimland]

Does it make a big difference which fuel supplier you use? Is it worth paying for higher grade diesel?

Which fuel supplier you use makes little or no difference.. be it Shell, BP , etc or Supermarket.. Diesel DERV is not as highly refined as petrol, it's a very basic fuel, although in recent years sulphur has been lowered. There are no different grades.

When I was employed at the Shell refinery in Stanford-le Hope (now closed down) the road tankers all loaded up with the same diesel in the same loading bays. .. even from different fuel companies .. refiners share distribution terminals.

However, there are benefits from using diesel with additives added at the refinery,

I use Shell V-Power Nitro+ or BP Ultimate Diesel

specially formulated for cleanliness and protection of diesel fuel injection systems. It is designed to restore and maintain engine power through active engine protection.

It can form and build up on important engine parts over time, and can contribute to:

• Reduced engine performance
• Increased fuel consumption
• Reduced smooth running
• Important engine parts, such as fuel injectors, needing repair

A build-up of dirt can create more dirt within the engine – it’s a vicious cycle.

I can also report a small increase in fuel economy, 2 - 3 mpg .. which goes someway to offset the additional pump price.

 

[Derbyshire wanderer]

We recently bought a 2007 Niesmann-Bischoff Arto which is on an Iveco 3.0 ltr 160 bhp engine. It had done 24000 miles when we got it about 6 weeks ago.

This week was our first trip away to Wales and we did about 600 miles. On the return journey the engine fault light came on for the last couple of hours of the journey but then didn't come on again when engine was restarted later.

We had a very bad experience with our last car which was a Mitsubishi Grandis on a 2.0 ltr VW diesel engine (our first ever diesel). After about 50k miles it started going repeatedly into limp mode and there was clearly some issues with carbon deposits. Despite changing a few parts at considerable cost we never really got to the bottom of it and ended up having to get rid of the car.

All of that has made me really nervous of engine fault lights! I felt really gutted today when the light came on - thinking that we might end up in the same place with our van which we love.
I also worry that if there was a persistent problem we might not be able to sell the van and get our money back.

Obviously if the falut light returns then we can get the fault-code reading but for now...

How worried should we be about deposits in an engine that has only done 24k? Am I being stupid? Is this actually more likely to be something else?

I am really keen that we give the engine the best possible care and do whatever we can to avoid carbon deposits. How can we best do that? What could we do to shift any stuff that may already have built up?
Should we use fuel additives?
Does it make a big difference which fuel supplier you use? Is it worth paying for higher grade diesel?

I hear and read conflicting things about all this stuff - so would particularly like to know where can I find a definitive guide to best practice for care of this engine if it exists.

Many thanks for any help you can give.

Andy Bramhall

Even though you had the previous problem with soot deposits on you car this may actually be more likely a problem due to something completely different like a poor connection or sticking part like @Lenny HB said the egr a likely culprit.
Whatever caused the light to come on should have left a code in the memory so getting the fault codes read even without a light on should be possible.
As others have said you really need to be starting with a full service done by a competent garage and preferably one that comes recommended.
Look up Fiat Professional dealers to find the people that should be able to service it correctly and check the memory for faults. You could also use an independent garage but ensure that they are familiar with these commercial vehicles.
Once you know why the light came on you can decide how to remedy.
I understand that these things happening when you have recently purchased dent you confidence but it may be something minor and never occur again.
Good luck

 

[sallylillian]

I have a 2015 Flair on an Iveco chassis I have my servicing done at the local Iveco commercial dealer. They have all the gear. You just need to explain that huge dirty oily boots and overalls do not go well with MH interiors. Tell them to put plastic or paper sheeting down, and cover the seats and steering wheel. They are your best choice. As others have said it's very low mileage, Robert Clark has done more than that in 18 months. So I would get a full service, better still if you brought from a dealer get them to get it serviced.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[MC 55 FUN]

A high capacity engine such as a 3.0 litre, coupled with a relatively high b.h.p. output often means the engine rarely sees properly high revolutions, & as the E.G.R.V. is normally only closed @W.O.T. & idle, I suspect a carbon build up could be an issue, in any case, obtaining the stored code will provide the relevant E.M.L. info'