cam belt (timing) (1 Viewer)

[lou020]

had the cam belt and pulleys etc done 2 weeks ago,on my pug boxer 2.5tdi.. but it just does not feel the same engine. just does not have that zip.

she was never the most powerful boxer, but seems less mpg, louder engine noise, a little less power (i think). also i'm sure it runs a little hotter on the temp gauge. when he fitted the kit he checked it twice and had to move the belt 1 tooth on the pump sprocket.

i'm sure the pump locking pin was in the centre of the elongated slots but after we had done the pin seemed to be to the left of the slot. if you know what i mean..

she starts first turn of the key and i have been to belgium and back since with no problem apart from being a bit more thirsty.(the van not me).
The chap who fitted it is well up on diesel engines,,,i dont want to appear to be moaning or calling his experiance.
what do you diesel heads think.

 

[chrisgreen]

had the cam belt and pulleys etc done 2 weeks ago,on my pug boxer 2.5tdi.. but it just does not feel the same engine. just does not have that zip.

she was never the most powerful boxer, but seems less mpg, louder engine noise, a little less power (i think). also i'm sure it runs a little hotter on the temp gauge. when he fitted the kit he checked it twice and had to move the belt 1 tooth on the pump sprocket.

i'm sure the pump locking pin was in the centre of the elongated slots but after we had done the pin seemed to be to the left of the slot. if you know what i mean..

she starts first turn of the key and i have been to belgium and back since with no problem apart from being a bit more thirsty.(the van not me).
The chap who fitted it is well up on diesel engines,,,i dont want to appear to be moaning or calling his experiance.
what do you diesel heads think.

sound's as though you are one tooth out on the injector pump,easy to if you dont check after putting tension on the belt,easy to check,belt cover off and realine pullies and try and locate all the locking pins:thumb:i bet you can get cam pin in, crank pin in, but not the injector pump pin.oh:

 

[pappajohn]

I agree with Chris.

the pump locking pin should be through the gear wheel and into a hole in the pump/engine casing, as should the crank and cam pins and lock the wheels solid, not an elongated slot.

all three pins should not be removed once in place until the new belt/pulleys are in place, then removed and the engine turned two full revolutions and timing pins reinserted to rechecked alignment.

too far advanced and it will overheat, too far retarded and it will 'white' smoke...both using more fuel and some loss of power

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[Geo]

One possible and regular failing on fitters practices
I will try and give a simplistic answer, also assuming you understand Keyways and woodruff keys

On the boxers the key way in the crank pulley is twice as wide as it needs to beoh:
when the pulley is gunned off it will be noticed the woodruff key is resting on the left hand side of the key way as you look at it
On re assembly it needs to rest on the right hand side and held there whilst tightening as thats the correct position for it, ( it moves to the left when being undone)
This will cause the timing to be slightly out and can produce your symptoms

After assembly this engine has to be turned by hand at least TEN times and check for easy reinsertion of locking pins chance are it will need re timing more than once to get it spot on Correct re fitting of the belt and tension is very important on this engine

Geo
ps 1/16th" out at the center of the crank pulley equates to just over 1/2 tooth