Buying brake parts for X250's and fitting guides (1 Viewer)

[Techno]

I bought a box (100) of medium latex pre powdered gloves. They're all right hands

 

[Techno]

This is the assembly grease I used for all contact surfaces and the slide pins.
Special attention the the hub to disc mating surfaces to prevent a re occurance of siezed on discs. They required the application of a blow torch as well as the very large mallet.

 

[Techno]

My trusty extending wheel brace managed to undo the calliper to hub bolts (22mm)
I don't have tightening torque for rear but as it's as a big a thread as the fronts I retightened to 210nm

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[Techno]

Removal of the top hat discs also requires the handbrake shoe adjusters to be backed right off with a flat blade screwdriver through a bolt hole otherwise they'll catch on the wear ridge of the old disc

 

[Techno]

If only changing pads there's no need to remove anything more than one slide pin bolt , the one furthest from the brake hose and the calliper will pivot clear to do the rest.

 

[Techno]

If you don't have a caliper piston push back tool you can improvise by replacing the caliper with pads removed and levering against the back of the disc. Give the rubber boot a good clean first.
I'd only do this if fitting new discs

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[Techno]

Got to service Jacs car tomorrow and take it for two tyres (Costco) , lots of tread but very cracked.
Weather is wonderful yes? probably do front brakes Friday

 

[Techno]

So are we ready for the front brakes?

 

[Techno]

First crack the wheel nuts and turn the wheel outwards

Lift the vehicle, secure and then remove the wheel

One wheel will have the pad wear sensor so disconnect this

Remove the caliper slide pin covers

6mm allen key will remove the pins

Remove the caliper and support so not to strain the flex hose

Remove the pads

Continued ......................

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[Techno]

Now you can use a caliper piston push back tool or as I do refit the caliper without pads and use the upper and lower slots to lever them back. If the van has an unknown service record you should remove the master cylinder cap and check that there isn't excess fluid. If needed use a piece of kitchen towel to soak some up.

pistons retracted

Use an extending or long bar to crack the pad holder bolts (M14 hexagon)

finish off with a ratchet

remove the wheel rim guide pins

Thump the disc both sides until it pops loose

Clean the hub face and prepare with copper slip (avoid getting any in the threads)

Thoroughly degrease and fit new disc, replace guide pins.

Clean loose rust from pad holder grease and fit new anti rattle clips

Refit and torque. 210nm seems about right

Fit new pads

Refit caliper etc and pump brake pedal to take up the slack

Wash hands make a cuppa.

 

[nekarsulm]

Great write up!
Is it just me, or do those front disks look almost unworn? Did you measure the thickness difference between them and the new ones?
Cheers.

 

[Techno]

They've lost about 2mm per side and rust flakes have been coming off the inner face causing a grating noise after long descents
For £100 for the front with pads is it even worth thinking about and also eliminates any bedding in

I've now done what works every time. Depart from buycarpart website and ignore until you get the 5% discount email
So I've now got all the parts for under £100 inc delivery from Germany

EDIT. you do of course have to register and put them in the basket first! then close the web page

I wonder what a garage would have charged me for the parts alone

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[Abacist]

I wonder what a garage would have charged me for the parts alone

A lotta, lotta, lolly!

A great report, well done as ever!

 

[Techno]

The inner face is more worn that it appears

 

[nekarsulm]

Fair point. Caliper probably not sliding properly causing the piston side to do more of the braking effort.
Always nice when a job goes smoothly, and the Allen key bolt head doesn't round off .....

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[Bart]

Nice Tutorial Andy let us know how the brake pads / discs perform after you've have a chance to do a few hundred miles with them fitted , as that was a good price.

 

[Techno]

Why a few hundred miles?
They are spot on like new brakes already

 

[Bart]

so you are happy with them then , ill bookmark that supplier for future.

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[Techno]

Quality German made discs and Italian pads what's not to like
Expect a weak £ to push prices up tho

 

[Guigsy]

Just resurrecting an old thread to say thanks to Techno for the guide. I bought a new set of Brembo discs (coated, so they shouldn't rust) and Brembo pads (with replacement hardware) for ~£120 from AutoPartsPro.co.uk for the front of my 2007 Ducato x250. Note that AutoPartsPro is German, so stuff takes about a week to arrive.

I only attempt light mechanical work and I've never done anything with with the brakes before. It took about 3 hours total, including a couple of breaks for the pee'ing rain. Even though everything looked like it was going to be a rusty nightmare, it was pretty simple. I took it for a tentative test drive. The first heavy braking test from 40mph, the pads felt like they were ice. After that it was fine. The garage quoted £300, so saved a good chunk of cash.

 

[pappajohn]

What do you mean by 'coated'?

You do know they have a thin coating of protective sticky grease to prevent rusting in storage and that needs thoroughly cleaning off with brake cleaner/degrease.

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[joka250]

What do you mean by 'coated'?

You do know they have a thin coating of protective sticky grease to prevent rusting in storage and that needs thoroughly cleaning off with brake cleaner/degrease.

Which is why the first use felt like ice.

 

[2x2camper]

What do you mean by 'coated'?

You do know they have a thin coating of protective sticky grease to prevent rusting in storage and that needs thoroughly cleaning off with brake cleaner/degrease.

Borg & Beck – Brake disc coating

The latest evolution in the Borg & Beck braking programme, is the introduction of a high quality ‘BECKTEC’ coating as standard to the majority of the range. The BECKTEC coating, which will be phased i

pmmonline.co.uk

 

[Guigsy]

The coating covers the whole disc to prevent the mild steel from rusting. I'm pretty sure that it's worn off the braking surfaces straight away, but it should keep the rest a bit less scraggy...

I did thoroughly brake clean everything and keep changing my gloves to reduce the chance i got greases on the pads or surfaces. I wasn't sure if the lack of friction on the first hard brake was due to the surface coating wearing off, or just normal bedding in.

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[Deneb]

The coating covers the whole disc to prevent the mild steel from rusting. I'm pretty sure that it's worn off the braking surfaces straight away, but it should keep the rest a bit less scraggy...

I did thoroughly brake clean everything and keep changing my gloves to reduce the chance i got greases on the pads or surfaces. I wasn't sure if the lack of friction on the first hard brake was due to the surface coating wearing off, or just normal bedding in.

They need to bed in. Perfectly normal for the feel to be poor initially when new pads are fitted. You should also avoid hard or heavy braking for the first 100 miles or so to allow them to bed in gradually, which avoids the possibility of grabbing or judder due to uneven transfer of the friction material between the pads and disc.