Buying an old motorhome (1 Viewer)

[EdwardFT]

I may have to buy a "new" motorhome sometime, but with my budget it will be an old motorhome, I am looking at under 20,000€. Does anyone have experience or advice on this, please? Any makes that last well, or any that don't? For example, I like the construction of Hymers, but on that budget it would sure widen the search if I wasn't just limited to Hymer, unfortunately.

Bit is it worth looking for, say a Hymer that is some years older than I might be. Able to buy in another make?

Is the coach work more or less important than the vehicle? For example, is age more important than mileage?

Any thoughts welcome, especially those that don't involve a time machine to save more money when younger, or avoid two divorces.

 

[mitzimad]

burstners also good ours is 2007 and all works as it should

 

[Hastingsranger]

Hi, we have a old Hymer but the swing model, you get the Hymer quality but check them out, they are a lot cheaper than the traditional Hymer shape.

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[DiggerDogs]

Hymer all the way for the build, wood rather than chipboard for instance, double floors for the other. £20k would put you in a 2000 A Class 544 but the licence would scupper you. A B544 with over bed may well be a good compromise , or a Corrado.

 

[Peppadog]

I would have thought that most older, cheaper Hymer’s are over 3500kg’s. Though shorter ones, say 6.5 metres might be less?

Condition is everything with older vehicles, regardless of make or converter. Mechanically though, older Merc based ‘vans are often thought of as tough and durable.

If it helps, my old Hymer is a 2007 Fiat based model, and 11 years old when we bought it. It was £32k plus and weighs 3900kg’s! Our two previous vans were bought new. We were not at all sure a bigger, integrated van would be a keeper, so bought this one as a trial with less to lose if we wanted to sell and go back to a smaller one later. So far, we are happy, but who knows?

Good luck searching.

 

[jongood]

Hymer all the way for the build, wood rather than chipboard for instance, double floors for the other. £20k would put you in a 2000 A Class 544 but the licence would scupper you. A B544 with over bed may well be a good compromise , or a Corrado.

You should be able to get a 544 sub 3500kgs.

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[ashley 1340]

Hi. I bought a 30 year old KonTiki that was almost scrap for £1500 With me doing ALL the work needed I have resurrected it to a very useable motorhome which gives us lots of pleasure for a total on the road cost of £5000 including initial purchase price. Now to do this you do need lots of different skills both mechanics and bodywork/interior, but it is possible, and for us it did not break the bank. So if you have the skills grab a bargain and go for it

 

[EdwardFT]

You should be able to get a 544 sub 3500kgs.

I am solo so I don't need a family-sized payload. On the other hand I am fulltiming so I have more than just a change of holiday clothes with me.

 

[EdwardFT]

Hi. I bought a 30 year old KonTiki that was almost scrap for £1500 With me doing ALL the work needed I have resurrected it to a very useable motorhome which gives us lots of pleasure for a total on the road cost of £5000 including initial purchase price. Now to do this you do need lots of different skills both mechanics and bodywork/interior, but it is possible, and for us it did not break the bank. So if you have the skills grab a bargain and go for it

Nice comment but I don't have the skills. But ask me again next year.

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[jongood]

I am solo so I don't need a family-sized payload. On the other hand I am fulltiming so I have more than just a change of holiday clothes with me.

Have you looked at a 544? Plenty of living space once the bed has gone up, downside is no garage.

 

[EdwardFT]

Have you looked at a 544? Plenty of living space once the bed has gone up, downside is no garage.

Yes, I have, and it seems like a good option. However on my budget and fulltiming (seriously, I do not have a real other home), I don't expect to get to choose.

 

[Ian Bosman]

Euramobile haven’t any wood in the construction of my 2003 as far as I have found

You are correct as the 2009 we has all the corner and edge joints in aluminium in the main construction. The floors are very thick wood, no carpets as is usual for German vans. After this period of time there are no untoward squeaks are rattles. So far the only failure has been the hab water pump but replaced the pump only section of the Shurflo and all parts are not an issue as common to many other continental makes.

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[Bucket]

BTW I will buy in France, does anyone have experience of French makes? I like some of the Chausson layouts and the are less expensive than Hymer here. Not to mention that I could go to Germany and buy a Hymer, importing would be simple (as far as bureaucracy ever is in France) and avoid duty because it would be intra-EU.

Ours in a Chausson. It's the first MoHo we have ever owned. We were novices when we bought it, (not even members of MHF) but visited every dealer we could reach and found it easy to reject all other candidates because of layout, size, storage etc.
After 9 years I can honestly say I have never seen another that is better for the money I would be prepared to pay. The more modern ones and A classes look great, with enviable engine performance; we would probably really enjoy owning one if we had a win on Euromillions.
Until then we will carry on enjoying the Chausson which has brilliant storage and a layout that suits us.
As we have only ever owned the one I can't compare but we have found the build quality is solid. The only manufacturing glitch was they didn't install adequate vents for the fridge freezer and it cost us a lot of time and money before we found that out and fitted the correct ones.

 

[denisejoe]

You are correct as the 2009 we has all the corner and edge joints in aluminium in the main construction. The floors are very thick wood, no carpets as is usual for German vans. After this period of time there are no untoward squeaks are rattles. So far the only failure has been the hab water pump but replaced the pump only section of the Shurflo and all parts are not an issue as common to many other continental makes.

My pump went in France we were at Dieppe had to go to Rouen for new one

 

[Lenny HB]

Low mileage vans can often have loads of problems due to being left sitting around for half the year. Higher mileage often a better buy as they have been used and looked after.

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[denisejoe]

Low mileage vans can often have loads of problems due to being left sitting around for half the year. Higher mileage often a better buy as they have been used and looked after.

Could apply to all our vans this year

 

[EdwardFT]

My pump went in France we were at Dieppe had to go to Rouen for new one

Off on the road to Rouen?

 

[nicholsong]

EdwardFT

I can see your requirements being a bit difficult:

An older MH built with the modern methods with no timber were usually only the more expensive, better built and therefore heavier marques, e.g. as already pointed out the N&B Artos. Our Arto is 2003 and bought privately in 2009 for £27.5K. It was plated at 3500kg which we could not run at, so upweighted to 3850kg, and could go to 4000kg with air rides.

I am assuming your licence limit of 3500kg is because you got your licence after 1996, and not for medical reasons. If so have you considered doing the C1 test to take you to 7500kg. It would be a cost of £1000ish but could just get you the quality MH you need with the payload you need for fulltiming.

Just another way to look at it.

Geoff

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[EdwardFT]

EdwardFT

I can see your requirements being a bit difficult:

An older MH built with the modern methods with no timber were usually only the more expensive, better built and therefore heavier marques, e.g. as already pointed out the N&B Artos. Our Arto is 2003 and bought privately in 2009 for £27.5K. It was plated at 3500kg which we could not run at, so upweighted to 3850kg, and could go to 4000kg with air rides.

I am assuming your licence limit of 3500kg is because you got your licence after 1996, and not for medical reasons. If so have you considered doing the C1 test to take you to 7500kg. It would be a cost of £1000ish but could just get you the quality MH you need with the payload you need for fulltiming.

Just another way to look at it.

Geoff

I do see that problem And that is a good point. I did check out Artos but they are expensive and heavy. Out of all the factors to balance, maybe just carrying less stuff would do It best.

I have a UK licence with C1 because I passed my test sometime just after the dinosaurs became extinct, but I am pushing 70 and will lose it. Also, I am resident in Framce now and will be able to exchange my licence for a French one sometime this year, so it doesn't seem worthwhile trying to keep the C1 until then. The exchange licence will have a start date equal to the date of exchange, so a heavier weight will not be grandfathered in. However I could take the lessons and tests for the French equivalent.

Correction: a French BE licence, costing probably about the same as a UK C1, does not allow a heavier motorhome, just a trailer with a weight up to 3500, but the vehicle weight still limited to 3500. A B96 allows a trailer up to 750. A French C1 is reckoned to cost 1500-2500€.

Covid-19 is probably getting in the way of a number of what would otherwise be my possibilities.

 

[nicholsong]

I do see that problem And that is a good point. I did check out Artos but they are expensive and heavy. Out of all the factors to balance, maybe just carrying less stuff would do It best.

I have a UK licence with C1 because I passed my test sometime just after the dinosaurs became extinct, but I am pushing 70 and will lose it. Also, I am resident in Framce now and will be able to exchange my licence for a French one sometime this year, so it doesn't seem worthwhile trying to keep the C1 until then. The exchange licence will have a start date equal to the date of exchange, so a heavier weight will not be grandfathered in. However I could take the lessons and tests for the French equivalent.

Correction: a French BE licence, costing probably about the same as a UK C1, does not allow a heavier motorhome, just a trailer with a weight up to 3500, but the vehicle weight still limited to 3500. A B96 allows a trailer up to 750. A French C1 is reckoned to cost 1500-2500€.

Covid-19 is probably getting in the way of a number of what would otherwise be my possibilities.

Why can you not exchange the UK C1 licence for a French one now before it expires at 70? Then you should retain C1. Although they may only give you one to expire on 70 birthday - unless you have a medical before applying in which case they will probably give you 3 years, or whatever it is in France(5 years here in Poland, just done it and awaiting licence card to be printed)

OR

Renew the UK one - just needs address in UK and needs someone to send you the D2 form (D4 for Medical can be downloaded, and DVLA are still showing on their website that any EU-registered doctor can sign it) . No charge for renewal except for new photo(£17(?))

I would suggest one of those options is worth doing to retain C1 - you will end up not having to compromise between MH quality and payload for all your stuff. Exchange for French now seems as though it might be easier.

Geoff

 

[Snoopy]

We also were lucky enough to have a decent older van 2003 hymer camp, great layout which was a priority with grandkids for now did not think I would like or use the overcab space..granddaughter ( penthouse) other times great storage ours was £20,000 few years back. Immaculate upholstery. Around 32,000 miles on the clock, yes bathroom not as big..but everything has a compromise...good luck with your search

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[EdwardFT]

Why can you not exchange the UK C1 licence for a French one now before it expires at 70? Then you should retain C1. Although they may only give you one to expire on 70 birthday - unless you have a medical before applying in which case they will probably give you 3 years, or whatever it is in France(5 years here in Poland, just done it and awaiting licence card to be printed)

OR

Renew the UK one - just needs address in UK and needs someone to send you the D2 form (D4 for Medical can be downloaded, and DVLA are still showing on their website that any EU-registered doctor can sign it) . No charge for renewal except for new photo(£17(?))

I would suggest one of those options is worth doing to retain C1 - you will end up not having to compromise between MH quality and payload for all your stuff. Exchange for French now seems as though it might be easier.

Geoff

No, I am afraid not. In France when you exchange a foreign licence for a French one, the French licence is dated from the date of exchange. Therefore it counts as (for me) a 2021 licence, and 2021 licences are limited to 3500kg. However it seems that you can copy C1 onto the application form and they will then ask you to take a medical in order to keep it.

But nothing is simple. France has said that UK licences can be used until the end of 2021, and they are therefore refusing to exchange them for the moment. So I would have to have C1 still on my UK licence when I exchange it, so I do need a medical for the UK.

Also, when you are over 60 in Franice, to keep a C1 you need to get a medical every 2 years, and over 75, every year.

I think my first action is to find out urgently if there are old motorhomes under 3500 that I can live with. If there are, I will go for that; if not, action the UK C1 So as to be able to get a French C1 later.

Motorhoming is not fun at the moment.

 

[denisejoe]

Off on the road to Rouen?

No we were parked up in Dieppe and when we went to use the tap the pump it wouldn't work so we had to go to the local tourist office to find out where the nearest dealers were and it was in Rouen.

 

[steve 6644]

Could apply to all our vans this year

Yeah, just higher mileage owners this year

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[EdwardFT]

No we were parked up in Dieppe and when we went to use the tap the pump it wouldn't work so we had to go to the local tourist office to find out where the nearest dealers were and it was in Rouen.

No, it was a very old joke, "road to ruin". I probably got it from my dad who entered France in Normandy without a visa, as one did in 1944.

 

[nicholsong]

No, it was a very old joke, "road to ruin". I probably got it from my dad who entered France in Normandy without a visa, as one did in 1944.

Well at least two of us got it and gave you a laugh.

 

[Mclouis700]

Our first motorhome was a McLouis and we bought it as complete novices. We thought it was an English make and were surprised to find that its Italian. It was very well built with no problems at all and I'd happily consider another one now. Well worth a look.

Currently has our McLouis 16yrs well built would certainly agree

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[Peppadog]

Yes. I got the joke too.

Have a look at Hobby vans. My understanding is they are durable, and plenty of them all over Europe!

 

[jongood]

I am assuming your licence limit of 3500kg is because you got your licence after 1996, and not for medical reasons. If so have you considered doing the C1 test to take you to 7500kg. It would be a cost of £1000ish but could just get you the quality MH you need with the payload you need for fulltiming.

Just another way to look at it.

Geoff

Geoff, just for the benefit of anyone else reading this thread can I point out that if you re considering a C1 you might as well take a C which is pretty much the same test and cost but enables you to drive any MH at all.

Jon

 

[joemocks79]

I bought a second hand one just over a year ago so went through all this. Things to consider:
1. Weight of the vehicle and do you have a C1 licence? If its over 3500kg you need a C1 licence to drive it
2. What layout do you want, e.g. how many of you need belted seats and how many beds do you need?
3. Do you want a fixed bed that you don't have to tidy away and make every morning and night?
4. Do you want a comfy lounge with a sofa or are you happy to just have the little dinette setup with a table and seats that you can't lie back on to read a book or watch something
5. Do you need a rear garage to store any bikes and other outside stuff in or are you happy to fit them to a bike rack and use a cover to protect them?
6. Age and mileage of the vehicle, how much work and planned maintenance do you need to budget for, e.g:
has the cambelt been done recently or do you need to budget for that straight away? How soon will tyres need replacing? When was the battery last replaced? Are there any small spots of rust underneath that will need some welding doing?
7. Are there any upgrades you want to do on it straight away like replacing the old tape deck with a bluetooth DAB unit, buying a motorhome specific Sat Nav to avoid low bridges, steep hills, tight bends; getting a Lithium battery and/or Solar panels; installing a refillable LPG tank; do any of the appliances need replacing like the fridge? do you need to buy crockery and utensils for it (its not a huge amount of money to spend to get plastic plates, cups, camping pans, a full set of utensils etc but you'll find after 1 or 2 trips that you won't want to borrow the stuff from your house as packing it up each time takes time out of getting on the road and makes coming back more of a chore and makes it more likely you'll end up forgetting something you'll then need like a corkscrew, a sharp knife, a chopping board, a can opener etc)

We did a 2 week away in a rental motorhome first so if you've never ever been in one at all actually living in one for a few days at least will really help firm up which bits of the layout were annoying and what you really couldn't do with/without in your own. For us we really didn't want to have the little dinette table as our only sitting and eating option so the rear lounge was a must have. We also didn't want to have to make the bed and put it away every day so we wanted an overcab bed rather than overcab storage. Over the past year we've spent a fair amount on it getting solar and refillable LPG fitted as after going away a few times now we don't necessarily want or need electric hook up in a site where you're all parked close next to each other. We prefer the option of quieter sites where they may not have electric hook up and having the ability to be self-sustaining for a few days. You'll quickly find that you will make changes but if you identify the bits you want that you won't be able to change like the layout then you have time to do the rest, you just need to budget for it. Don't expect to max out your budget buying the vehicle and then not need to spend anything more. There will always be things you will identify later but don't box yourself in on the layout if you're not sure on it and don't be too fixated on the brand as a guarantee of getting what you want. It can be a good indication of quality in many cases but if you fixate on a brand and that means you have to compromise on the layout you get that will start to bug you the more you use it.

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[Kevmand]

Rapido 997m 2.2 Mercedes 2008 .we’ve put a substantial dep on one from a dealer (unseen) looking for any info on last owner , it was one owner from new 2008! Can’t collect till boris say so . Any help in tracking prev owners appreciated.