Broken locker handle (1 Viewer)

AXO66

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The handle part of our rear locker came off in my hand when opening the locker.


is this a known issue?
is it repairable?
do i need to buy a new one and figure out how to fit?

2495F2B6-2D2D-4625-95AE-6CB30CF05167.jpeg
 
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AXO66

AXO66

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Sorted.
Highbridge will give me a new lock system.
I have to say they seem a good dealer, and their after sales is polite and efficient.
just need to figure out how to fit it when it arrives.
 
May 7, 2016
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If comes with an unsuited lock you might want to see if you can swap the barrel over from the broken handle.

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andy63

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is this a known issue
If it the same as mine on a 620 I'd be surprised if it wasn't a common problem..
The struts on that rear locker door are way over the top and if you don't fit a separate grab handle its only a matter of time before the existing handles break..
Andy..

BTW do you know the name for the type of handle that is fitted to the locker doors on the chaussons?
 
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AXO66

AXO66

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If comes with an unsuited lock you might want to see if you can swap the barrel over from the broken handle.

there is a way. It came with no barrell, so hopefully will be able to utilise the existing one To keep the number of keys down.
some U Tube time coming up for me,
 
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AXO66

AXO66

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If it the same as mine on a 620 I'd be surprised if it wasn't a common problem..
The struts on that rear locker door are way over the top and if you don't fit a separate grab handle its only a matter of time before the existing handles break..
Andy..

BTW do you know the name for the type of handle that is fitted to the locker doors on the chaussons?

Think it’s called a Salino lock, made by Oberolz of Germany.

the bag the new lock and handle came in had a part number on it, TRG232093R

i might of course be wrong but the picture on E bay look the same.

Some Folks on the Chasson facebook group say to use a sucker (car dent puller? ) to open the door, thus never pulling on the handle .

I‘m going down that route as i fear the other handle is about to go.
indications being the key not sliding in all the way easily, but I will soon see.

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SandraL

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Dont know what make key you have, but try a google of zadi barrel removal
For zadi and fawo you can get special keys that release an unlocked barrel from the handle. Might be true of other makes.
 

andy63

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Think it’s called a Salino lock, made by Oberolz of Germany.

the bag the new lock and handle came in had a part number on it, TRG232093R

i might of course be wrong but the picture on E bay look the same.

Some Folks on the Chasson facebook group say to use a sucker (car dent puller? ) to open the door, thus never pulling on the handle .

I‘m going down that route as i fear the other handle is about to go.
indications being the key not sliding in all the way easily, but I will soon see.

Thanks for the information?.
I've fitted a central handle to the back locker door which I use to pull it open .. The amount of force required to open mine was Silly for such a lightweight door and it felt like the two locker door handles would break if I kept using them to pull it open..
I've often wondered how those flush fitting handles/locks worked?
Andy

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TheBig1

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many many years! since I was a kid
you need a lock removal key to swap the barrels
 
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AXO66

AXO66

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Dont know what make key you have, but try a google of zadi barrel removal
For zadi and fawo you can get special keys that release an unlocked barrel from the handle. Might be true of other makes.

Thanks for this.

Just googled Salino locks and looks like it is Zadi barrel.
so can now enjoy some u tube time.

(found the locks for sale on the grasshopper site )
 
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We had to replace one on our first mh. I have seen a lot of people bash them down to click them in all it needs is a gentle push and wiggle. I suspect bashing them cracks the plastic part through then they snap off when pulling the door open

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AXO66

AXO66

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Thanks for the information?.
I've fitted a central handle to the back locker door which I use to pull it open .. The amount of force required to open mine was Silly for such a lightweight door and it felt like the two locker door handles would break if I kept using them to pull it open..
I've often wondered how those flush fitting handles/locks worked?
Andy

just looking at the new one.
as you turn the handle a metal barrel turns and pulls the locking catch at the rear towards the front.
looking at the broken bit , first picture , as clear as mud, although you can see the grooves in the handle that engage with the metal barrel.

There is a spring left in the gubbins still in the door, but no obvious way the handle attaches to that bit.

(too frail by half me thinks.)
 
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AXO66

AXO66

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We had to replace one on our first mh. I have seen a lot of people bash them down to click them in all it needs is a gentle push and wiggle. I suspect bashing them cracks the plastic part through then they snap off when pulling the door open

I haven’t bashed them down. I turn the handle and lock it, before pushing it back in.they just click shut and locked.
I agree with Andy63 it's the stiffness of the door pulling against the tight door seal that uses the most force , and possibly not pulling them straight out, but at an angle.
 

andy63

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We had to replace one on our first mh. I have seen a lot of people bash them down to click them in all it needs is a gentle push and wiggle. I suspect bashing them cracks the plastic part through then they snap off when pulling the door open
What you are saying most probably won't do the lock much good but I have found that at times it needs a good slap to stay or catch in the flush position..
The problem with the chaussons however is the gas struts they fit to the back door ..
They are just to powerful for what is needed.
Andy

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Mar 23, 2012
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What you are saying most probably won't do the lock much good but I have found that at times it needs a good slap to stay or catch in the flush position..
The problem with the chaussons however is the gas struts they fit to the back door ..
They are just to powerful for what is needed.
Andy
We have exactly those locks try pushing them in and just rocking them they don't need a slap!!!!
 
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AXO66

AXO66

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What you are saying most probably won't do the lock much good but I have found that at times it needs a good slap to stay or catch in the flush position..
The problem with the chaussons however is the gas struts they fit to the back door ..
They are just to powerful for what is needed.
Andy

No struts on the 510. Its a vertical ski locker door at the back.but it shuts tight into the seal, which is a good thing.( Top lock is too high for my other half to reach though!)
 
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AXO66

AXO66

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Now wondering if locking them when the handle is out, then pushing them in so they click shut but locked , is causing the problem leading to them snapping?

that was how we were shown at the dealers to lock them when we were struggling to close and lock them with the handle pushed in before locking.

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Mar 23, 2012
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Don't know but as I said we had to change one or it might have been 2 on our first MH when I used to slap them down by the age of our current MH and not had to replace one yet!
 

andy63

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While we are on about the locker doors ..one of my hinges started to tighten up and with the doors capable of acting as such a long lever it wouldn't take much to snap or destroy the hinge mounting..
Ive stripped every door including the hab door hinge on my 620 and greased the hinge pins.. Quite a few were showing sings of oxidation and needed the grease..
They can be dismantled one at a time without disturbing the door position ..so quite easy and worth doing..
Andy
 
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AXO66

AXO66

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Close ups of the broken handle, lock barrel still in.
you can see a slight crack just under the top edge.

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42F9BBAD-6A51-4AC8-B679-FBF308F5A9CC.jpeg
 

Mike J T

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I've recently had a similar problem with our Chausson 610 - the upper lock on the tall ski storage part of the garage broke (a little closer to the handle than in your case) as I was pulling on the two unlocked handles to open the door.

The locks are, as identified earlier, the Salino, made by Oberolz of Germany. The lock barrels are made by zadi. I obtained a replacement from an online supplier, but it came without instructions and I didn't have a lock removal key or suitably shaped steak knife, so I investigated!

The lock barrel fits inside a metal sleeve which is held in the plastic lock handle by two small projections that clip onto the inner end of the plastic lock handle - the inner end of the metal sleeve can be seen in the two upper pictures in the Wednseday 4:54pm post.

I used a small flat bladed screw driver to push out the plastic by one projection whilst using a larger flat bladed screw driver to push down on (the inner end of) the lock barrel. There was a small amount of movement so I repeated on the other side, and continued side to side until both 'teeth' were inside the tube of the handle. The metal sleeve/lock barrel assembly could then be pushed out of the handle.

The next step was to separate the lock barrel from the metal sleeve. I inserted the key into the lock and then used the small bladed screwdriver to push in the locating tine whilst pushing the lock barrel into the sleeve (a third hand would make this stage easier than I found it) to remove it.

The metal sleeve has four channels in its internal facing. One of these has a small slope in one shoulder.This is the channel that the location and locking tines of the lock barrel go into. Push the lock barrel in until it is right in, test operation and fit new assembly to the door.
 
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AXO66

AXO66

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Removal key tool arrivrd. Just under a tenner.
With the lock unlocked the tool has to be pushed in as far as it goes. You have to push harder than when useing the key.

Then a wiggle or two and you finish up with barrel and tool.
Now just need to research putting it in the new lock assembly.

image.jpg

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AXO66

AXO66

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Sorted, barrel now in the new handle lock .

Only point to be aware of is in the picture above there is a lug at the end of the barrel.
The corresponding ”slot” to accept the lug in the new handle rotates. You have to line it up , by using screw driver, to the right position. That is unlocked .

Then slide the barrel back in with the tool key in, pull it out and then lock with your usual key.

I had to hold the handle down against the spring, The tool key was also difficult to slideout , needed wriggling. Maybe my barrel is a little worn, but easy to put new one in now, cos I know what to do!


so it‘s a Salino lock, made by Oberolz of Germany.
Zadi lock.
when ordering the Zadi tool to remove the old barrel, check it‘s for the right key numbers.
 
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to lubricate locks, please dont use wd40 or oil, as they clog up the lock. Use graphite spray
I knew not to use WD40 but “or Oil” is useful information and new to me. Thanks TheBig1.

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718XLB

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I also have two broken handles one just broke today i need help where can i buy these handles with new barrels and keys Please
 
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AXO66

AXO66

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I also have two broken handles one just broke today i need help where can i buy these handles with new barrels and keys Please

when I was looking I found some on E bay.

however I approached our dealer where we bought the van and they very kindly sent us one out of good will. ( given we have done business with them since) we are just into year four of the van.

so maybe contact Chausson dealers who no doubt can get you one.

or

https://leisureplusdirect.co.uk/product/salino-lock-motorhomes-white/ around £45

google Salino motorhome locks and quite a few suppliers come up.

the lock came without the barrels.

so i got a Zadi barrel tool remover from Ebay. ( check you key number so that the barrel tool will fit).and used my existing ones.



good luck.

( ik m going to use a suction cap to open doors in the future to take the pressure of the lock as not really fit fir purpose)
 

718XLB

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Thank you so much you are very helpful

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