Boxer gear change (1 Viewer)

[Quarterton]

I refer to my motor home as the van, less pretentious for an older vehicle.
I have a 1998 Peugeot Boxer 1.9 non turbo motor home (van) and this winter replaced the gear leaver as the original was very slack. The new one is as new the problem I have is that I can get in/out of gear without the engine running but very difficult when running. The clutch, peddle and cable were replaced around 10k back and the vehicle drove beautifully. Anybody got advice on the problem and/or cure.
On another point when I got the van back on the road in 2016 it was embarrassingly slow with almost zero acceleration and fuel consumption around 28mpg. My local small garage showed me an article about a fuel additive (FTC) which is small metal tables. I added these to my fuel tank and within 1000 miles the transformation in my van was unbelievable, cruising up to 70 mph and 33/35 mpg.

 

[Figaro]

I'd have thought small metal tablets in a fuel addative would block the injectors but then again I know very little about engines

 

[Figaro]

Just googled FTC addative, here's what honest John thinks

I've seen FTC, an apparent miracle additive that improves fuel economy and lowers emissions, advertised. The reviews are very favourable. I've never seen anything similar to this on the market before and wondered whether you had?
Asked on 13 February 2018 by

Answered by Honest John
This idea was developed in WW2 to help Merlin aircraft engines run on low grade Russian fuel. These days, it's completely irrelevant. Run on branded Super and you won't have any problems.

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[Jev88]

I can't comment on your precise vehicle but not uncommon for clutch cables to stretch and bed in over the first few thousand miles? Most fitters advise a call back to them to check clutches in general as a free after fit adjustment?

 

[Quarterton]

I'd have thought small metal tablets in a fuel addative would block the injectors but then again I know very little about engines

These tablets are as big as a thumb nail and do not dissolve or reduce in size, my local garage has been using the in his landrover for about 3 years and I for 2 years/15000 miles without any problems.

 

[Quarterton]

I can't comment on your precise vehicle but not uncommon for clutch cables to stretch and bed in over the first few thousand miles? Most fitters advise a call back to them to check clutches in general as a free after fit adjustment?

Thank you for your reply I shall contact the garage.

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[tonyidle]

If it only happens when the engine is running then the clutch is not fully disengaging. The gearbox input shaft is spinning and the gearbox syncromesh will not allow the gears to engage. Normally reverse gear has no syncromesh so a secondary test is to try to engage reverse - which will crunch.

The clutch may not fully disengage if it's incorrectly adjusted or if there's fault in the clutch itself. Clutch plates may fail to slide if there's a build up of dirt on the gearbox input shaft or the plate itself might be fouled or distorted. First check to eliminate the clutch linkage is to check the movement of the release arm where the cable connects. Assuming a correctly adjusted clutch movement of the cable connection should be in proportion to pedal travel. If all is OK then the fault is the clutch itself. My money is on the clutch. Either way the gearbox is not at fault.

 

[Janine]

I have a 2006 Boxer and had a similar problem with changing gear - selecting reverse needed two hands! My garage lubricated the linkages and it's been much better since.

 

[rangi]

Check the G/Box oil to see if it has emulsified.

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[Quarterton]

Check the G/Box oil to see if it has emulsified.

I have that problem before but it does continue to emulsify I have however just changed it so it should be alright, what I cannot understand is how the water gets in, I have move the drain pipe forward so just going to hope!
Thank you for your input.

 

[Quarterton]

If it only happens when the engine is running then the clutch is not fully disengaging. The gearbox input shaft is spinning and the gearbox syncromesh will not allow the gears to engage. Normally reverse gear has no syncromesh so a secondary test is to try to engage reverse - which will crunch.

The clutch may not fully disengage if it's incorrectly adjusted or if there's fault in the clutch itself. Clutch plates may fail to slide if there's a build up of dirt on the gearbox input shaft or the plate itself might be fouled or distorted. First check to eliminate the clutch linkage is to check the movement of the release arm where the cable connects. Assuming a correctly adjusted clutch movement of the cable connection should be in proportion to pedal travel. If all is OK then the fault is the clutch itself. My money is on the clutch. Either way the gearbox is not at fault.

When you say the the clutch movement of the cable connection should be in proportion to the peddle travel what exactly do you mean, I am assuming you mean the top of the peddle mechanism as opposed to the bottom or foot travel.

 

[tonyidle]

When you say the the clutch movement of the cable connection should be in proportion to the peddle travel what exactly do you mean, I am assuming you mean the top of the peddle mechanism as opposed to the bottom or foot travel.

When you start to press the pedal the clutch arm cable connection should start to move & should continue to do so until the pedal is fully down. There's a lever ratio involved on the pedal so the travel at the clutch arm will not be the same as the pedal travel. There should however be little or no lost motion.

This is how it looks (not necessarily a picture of yours - in particular the fork return spring is different or may not exist and, on yours, the adjustment is on the inner rather than the outer cable. The principle is the same though.):

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