BJ Splitter needed in Plodiv Bulgaria urgent

[Roddos]

Hi All

I urgently need a BJ splitter (that’s a ball joint separator for people thinking of something else)

the rough roads have caused the drivers lower ball joint to become “loose” and knocking pretty badly,
I have the tools with me to carry out the repair and the ball joint but not a splitter, normally you can shock these free (read hitting with a hammer) but this one is solid even with the strut compressed and the lower arm under tension it won’t budge.

so if anyone could help I would be eternally grateful, if not a hope this brought a smile to your face

safe travels
Rod

 

[dunnah01]

Any motor factors should stock one. I'd go for the hammer in chisel type if it's as stuck as you say.

Контакти

Контакти - връзка с нас. Данни за директна връзка с екипа на www.carparts.bg където може да отправите вашите запитвания за авточасти, наличности, съвместимост или запитвания по други въпроси.

carparts.bg

 

[jumar]

That's some Ask Rod.....you might have to bite the bullet and call at a local back street garage and pay for an hour's labour...good wine in Plodiv....

 

[Roddos]

Any motor factors should stock one. I'd go for the hammer in chisel type if it's as stuck as you say.

Контакти

Контакти - връзка с нас. Данни за директна връзка с екипа на www.carparts.bg където може да отправите вашите запитвания за авточасти, наличности, съвместимост или запитвания по други въпроси.

carparts.bg

Unfortunately the motorshops here are not like UK, their really good at getting parts but not tools, they had the ball joint in 2 hours, which is really good for a 20 odd year old motorhome,

 

[eurajohn]

Any motor factors should stock one. I'd go for the hammer in chisel type if it's as stuck as you say.

Контакти

Контакти - връзка с нас. Данни за директна връзка с екипа на www.carparts.bg където може да отправите вашите запитвания за авточасти, наличности, съвместимост или запитвания по други въпроси.

carparts.bg

Be careful, the one needed for a Ducato is larger than the "normal" ones available at accessory type shops.
Agree tuning fork hammer in type are good, but destroy the boot, although not a factor in this case.

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[jockaneezer]

I've found, if you have access, if you can hit both sides of the housing where the tapered portion fits with two hammers simultaneously, they usually pop out ok ?

 

[Roddos]

That's some Ask Rod.....you might have to bite the bullet and call at a local back street garage and pay for an hour's labour...good wine in Plodiv....

Yes I know I’m reaching here , their is garage across the street I will try tomorrow,

 

[Roddos]

Be careful, the one needed for a Ducato is larger than the "normal" ones available at accessory type shops.
Agree tuning fork hammer in type are good, but destroy the boot, although not a factor in this case.

I’ve used the fiat “eper” to get the part number then crossed referenced, it shows mine as having the 14Q loading, seems the only difference is the taper but as it’s thats the stuck part can’t really measure, think the “tuning fork“ type is the next step up from the hammer

 

[Roddos]

I've found, if you have access, if you can hit both sides of the housing where the tapered portion fits with two hammers simultaneously, they usually pop out ok ?

Usually they will and was hoping for that but the BJ nut was excessively tight (was flexing a 24” knuckle bar when I removed it)

 

[eurajohn]

The size part I referred to is the physical gap between the anvil yoke and the pressure arm, the type readily available do not have sufficient span.

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[Roddos]

The size part I referred to is the physical gap between the anvil yoke and the pressure arm, the type readily available do not have sufficient span.

Pressure arm???

 

[L' Hobo]

In situations like this when you have the part, a Farm Machinery repair workshop is a good place to ask!

Two hammers and a little bit of heat, works for me too! Good Luck!

 

[ivorantony]

A blow lamp with a bit of heat, it will bugger the boot and possibly catch the grease alight so have a hose at the ready,
but the expansion of the outer taper seat and few good blows is usually all it takes,

 

[eurajohn]

Pressure arm???

This type.

 

[mitzimad]

i always use a long bar and a hammer get pressure on the arn and crack the bit round the taper seldom fails bigger the ball joint the longer the bar

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[Catpirate]

Seen this on Amazon, assuming Bulgaria has Amazon

Amazon product ASIN B01FS1GAAY

 

[Catpirate]

having looked not sure Amazon is the best choice. As suggested above an agricultural repairer may be best, These guys may help you

Home

 

[Silver-Fox]

This type.
View attachment 618239

I’ve broken a few of those and the hammer in fork

Heat and a pair of large hammers are my go to now

 

[Roddos]

This type.
View attachment 618239

Oh I see what you mean , thought you was on about the trailing arm on the vehicle, yes John your right the standard size won’t properly fit

 

[Roddos]

normally you can shock these free (read hitting with a hammer) but this one is solid even with the strut compressed and the lower arm under tension it won’t budge

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[Catpirate]

Does it look like this:-

 

[Roddos]

Does it look like this:-

View attachment 618275

Yes it does, the 4 holes bolt the BJ to the hub, the bj Knuckle fits through the trailing arm pointing down

 

[Catpirate]

As I understand you have a new one, in the past I have had to cut off the joint using an angle grinder, once had to drill the taper to get it out, using bigger drill bits until the taper gave in........ The angle grinder usually puts sufficient heat in to force the taper free. Cut the threaded end first. This is a last resort as you have no way back except to replace. Good Luck

 

[Roddos]

As I understand you have a new one, in the past I have had to cut off the joint using an angle grinder, once had to drill the taper to get it out, using bigger drill bits until the taper gave in........ The angle grinder usually puts sufficient heat in to force the taper free. Cut the threaded end first. This is a last resort as you have no way back except to replace. Good Luck

I have a cutoff tool with me but the proble is there’s more than 1 size taper used and although I used eper to identify the part number there’s still a chance it’s wrong, so going to drive to a couple of garages tomorrow and see if they can do it while we wait (currently about 27c here or if they will hire me/point me in the direction of where I can get the tool from.

many thanks to everyone that has replied I will update you all later in the week

Rod

 

[Catpirate]

Hope you get sorted, It is worth being somewhere that can repair it. The ball joint will not break just affects the steering somewhat and the noise level.

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[Catpirate]

This is a similar ball joint removal video

 

[Silver-Fox]

Just a thought have you tried putting a jack under the bj with the nut undone but still threaded on.

That will put a lot of upward pressure on it.

 

[Catpirate]

Just a thought have you tried putting a jack under the bj with the nut undone but still threaded on.

That will put a lot of upward pressure on it.

This could very well work, once all the weight is taken by the jack give it a hard hit with a hammer. Usually the problem with a ball joint is getting the nut off. You need to put all the weight on the loosened nut allowing the taper to be shocked loose.

 

[Silver-Fox]

This could very well work, once all the weight is taken by the jack give it a hard hit with a hammer. Usually the problem with a ball joint is getting the nut off. You need to put all the weight on the loosened nut allowing the taper to be shocked loose.

That’s what I would do if it’s being a pig to get off.

A bit of heat would go amiss at the same time if you have a plumbers tourch.

 

[Roddos]

This could very well work, once all the weight is taken by the jack give it a hard hit with a hammer. Usually the problem with a ball joint is getting the nut off. You need to put all the weight on the loosened nut allowing the taper to be shocked loose.

This is how I compressed the strut and loaded the lower/trailing arm and then twated the s**t out of it but no movement, the nut was so tight it was flexing a 24” knuckle bar!

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