Best way to fix into camper interior wall

E

emjaiuk

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LHD Hymer exsis-i
I've a 2011 Hymer exsis-I 562. The TV bracket has just fallen off the wall and needs to be refixed. I'm amazed that it's lasted this long considering it was only fixed with 4 No 4 wood screws.
I was thinking of using large thread plasterboard fixings, glued into place or has anyone any better suggestions? image.jpeg

Malcolm
 
Use the metal toggle ones as they spread the load behind the thin plywood.

Y1777011-01.jpg


Rawl Plugs also work very well. The plaster board variety

You could also use Sikaflex behind the fitting and glue it to the wall as well.
 
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Toggles (spring loaded)

But the problem is that you end up drilling a large hole to get the fixing into the cavity, sssuming thete is a cavity. You could try fixing a battern between studs and fixing to thar
 
If you have access behind the panel you could fit a bracing timber. Otherwise screw a large piece of ply on the wall to spread the load before fitting the bracket. You can colour and varnish it so it doesn't look out of place.
 
MisterB said:
Toggles (spring loaded)

But the problem is that you end up drilling a large hole to get the fixing into the cavity, sssuming thete is a cavity. You could try fixing a battern between studs and fixing to thar
Click to expand...
No cavity I'm afraid, thin hardboard boned to foam, but thanks anyway.

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How about Gripit fixings? OK, I've never used them in a MH, but they are great for plasterboard. The extending 'wings' would bite into the foam, over a larger area than plastic screw plugs.

GripIt Plasterboard Fixing Kit Assorted

Heavy duty plasterboard fixing enables safe hanging of loads up to 113kg. Slim gripping wings open easily within the cavity to provide a secure anchor and distribute weight more effectively than conventional fixings or plugs. Auto-adjusts to wall thickness. Suitable for use in 9.5mm to 15mm...
www.toolstation.com
gripitfixings.jpg
 
Cavity fixings are great for where there is a cavity but the van wall should be a sandwich construction with the inside ply walls bonded to the foam I believe, if it suits the decor I would glue and screw a panel behind the bracket failing that possibly carefully drill some oversize holes and epoxy glue in a dowel to ultimately screw into, In composite construction this would be called a “hard point but of course should be inserted before one of the skins goes on.

Martin
 
Whatever you decide to do use adhesive as the primary fix - not least so that vibration can't cause movement to loosen the fasteners. If the bracket isn't smooth and flat where it contacts the wall cut a piece of 1.5 - 2mm aluminium to the shape of the bracket. Drill small pilot holes to match those in the bracket / wall. Fill the holes in the wall with Gorilla glue, allow it to set, then trim it flush with the wall board. Fit the plate to the wall using HD double-sided tape then attach the bracket using the original screws. Take care not to strip them.
 
Do you leave TV on its bracket whilst travelling?
Our TV is fixed on a removable bracket on the side of the wardrobe which isn’t very thick and we never leave the TV in position when driving.

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You could try drilling hole, fill with plenty of stixall or similar and glue in a piece of dowel, then fix to the dowel.
 
autorouter said:
How about Gripit fixings? OK, I've never used them in a MH, but they are great for plasterboard. The extending 'wings' would bite into the foam, over a larger area than plastic screw plugs.

GripIt Plasterboard Fixing Kit Assorted

Heavy duty plasterboard fixing enables safe hanging of loads up to 113kg. Slim gripping wings open easily within the cavity to provide a secure anchor and distribute weight more effectively than conventional fixings or plugs. Auto-adjusts to wall thickness. Suitable for use in 9.5mm to 15mm...
www.toolstation.com
View attachment 320379
Click to expand...

Be careful of these fixings as they have a minimum wall thickness that they will go to. They are very very good and a arbor is available so you can clean away any material behind to clear the required void. But I think they ply lining on most MoHo’s is going to be 5mm, and think that is too thin for these to work.
 
Update - fastening to foam walls
i ended up using the plasterboard fittings shown in the first post, together with gorilla glue, dampened as per instructions. So far so good as they say, it’s still as solid as a rock. There’s also the advantage that the screw can be taken out of the fitting easily
 
Just get an iPad ;)

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3M VHB tape is pretty amazing. Different types for different material. Used along with screws on a variety of projects.
Genuine 3M™ VHB™ 5952 Double Sided Acrylic Adhesive Mounting Tape Tape for Automotive, Craft, Construction, Metalwork (3M VHB 5952 20mm) Amazon product ASIN B088F3QSPV
 
Mark McG said:
3M VHB tape is pretty amazing. Different types for different material. Used along with screws on a variety of projects.
Genuine 3M™ VHB™ 5952 Double Sided Acrylic Adhesive Mounting Tape Tape for Automotive, Craft, Construction, Metalwork (3M VHB 5952 20mm) Amazon product ASIN B088F3QSPV
Click to expand...
It is good, but only as good as the surface it’s fixed to.
 
emjaiuk said:
I've a 2011 Hymer exsis-I 562. The TV bracket has just fallen off the wall and needs to be refixed. I'm amazed that it's lasted this long considering it was only fixed with 4 No 4 wood screws.
I was thinking of using large thread plasterboard fixings, glued into place or has anyone any better suggestions?View attachment 320264

Malcolm
Click to expand...
 
Dear Malcolm
A simple way is to dill a hole in the wood and glue a dowel in its place. You can then reapply screws in the dowel. I am sure it will hold.
 
Raymond Bonello said:
Dear Malcolm
A simple way is to dill a hole in the wood and glue a dowel in its place. You can then reapply screws in the dowel. I am sure it will hold.
Click to expand...
The wall is very thin ply bonded to foam insulation

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Is it an outside wall with a blind hole ie no ability to drill through?

Try reading title john
 
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Pherhaps the simplest way is to glue in the screwed fixings as 1st post.
Oh you have
So i was right then
 
One I fitted to a Caravan was on the wardrobe wall. I just put a ply Panel inside the wardrobe and Bolted right through?. As it was an "old" CRT T-V, it never travelled "in Situ" though. The R-V one`s, Also Older CRT jobs where built in to the cabinetry above the Front Windscreen.

BTW, I had to replace the CRT one in the last R-V. So I fitted shelving to the space behind and made a door for the opening from varnished Ply, then attached the bracket to the door. We stored all the Video`s and DVD`s in there.
 
Sikaflex a wooden tablet to wall then mount device.

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This whole thread would be unnecessary had the original panel, from a supposedly reputable manufacturer, been more substantial. Of course it is possible that TV was not positioned there by Hymer.

I think the build quality is being compromised by the increasing prevalence of drivers with no C1 licence.

My OH(has no C1) asked at N&B if they made any under 3500kg. Immediate answer from their top salesman was a firm 'no', not quite true as some specs are under 3500kg, but I think he was factoring in standard extras which would in practical terms take it over.

N&B do however have a specially designed C1 course which can be taken on one of their MHs instead of a truck. I think more manufacturers should be thinking that way if they do not want to damage their quality reputation by building flimsy 3500kg MHs.

Geoff
 
The TV fitting was an original Homer option, or so I was told.

Personally, I suffer from heart failure, and although fully medicated and controlled DVLA refused my C1 renewal at 70. Therefore I either keep within 3.5t or give up motorhoming
 
emjaiuk said:
The TV fitting was an original Homer option, or so I was told.

Personally, I suffer from heart failure, and although fully medicated and controlled DVLA refused my C1 renewal at 70. Therefore I either keep within 3.5t or give up motorhoming
Click to expand...

My sympathies re your licence. A situation I dread, but hopefully I will soon have a POlish licence when the medical will be every 5 years.

Geoff
 

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