b544 bathroom door issue

Kirsten

Kirsten

LIFE MEMBER
Joined
May 5, 2015
Posts
882
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Location
Stratford on Avon
Funster No
36,214
MH
Hymer B544
Exp
Since 2010
Dont know if anyone can help - the sliding door to the bathroom on our 2014 Hymer seems to have dropped; the runners on the top have come out of the rail. The door itself is quite battered and we did ask Travelworld about a new one when we bought the van - but this request fell on deaf ears sadly [should have stuck to guns !] Cant find any references to the door on any website- reluctant to take it back to Travelworld due to distance and their costs and timescales - Any help/info gratefully received [bearing in mind replacing the sink trap has been hailed by selves as pinnacle of DIY success so far in lives ] Thank you kind sirs xxx[and fellow lasses]
 
Any photos please??
 
It wasn’t stiff but has degraded a bit at the bottom where the covering has split
27823968-1199-4354-BAC7-F12B3AA23F86.jpeg
w
27823968-1199-4354-BAC7-F12B3AA23F86.jpeg
 
It won’t lift up to go back into the rail,if we have to take bathroom apart to fix we would maybe -price allowing - get a new one but they are not listed anywhere ...

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That's called a Tambour door. Not sure what has gone wrong from the photo, but lots used in motorhomes and caravans so parts should readily be available. Maybe try a Hymer dealer closer to you?
 
Mine did exactly the same, no repairs worked and in the end I took it out and put a curtain in. I put a 6 inch wide piece of acrylic in the bottom groove to keep the curtain in. Cheap easy and works better than the original and the curtain can be washed.
 
I would try to remove and re fix. At the age of the van it's better to keep as original Hymer as possible.
 
Thank you Busybuilder , PeterC10 and CTC (y) Lowdhams have said the door is about £600 [argh but cheap compared to the Rapido roof light strip on another thread] I did think of a shower curtain but that doesnt give much privacy when guests/grandkids use the loo.... Thinking of buying the door and trying to fix it selves.... What can go wrong ?o_Oo_Oo_O:oops::oops::oops::oops:
Sarah thinks we should just bite bullet and pay Travelworld. ... Am thinking we should grasp nettle and DIY ... pointing to new shiny sink plug... and now know what it is called will resume search . xx Many thanks .

Another query to follow about fitting a towbar to take the bike rack we already have vs getting a bike rack fitted ; one expensive ordeal at a time .
 
I had the problem of the hangers coming out of the screen, I took it all off As well as the track and re-glued them back in...

my memory tells me it was fairly easy..

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Mr Smiffy thank you xx How did you take the track off as it goes behind the facia that holds the shower head. There are screws [capped off] in the top of this and possibly in the bottom - did you have to take the whole RHS wall thingy off to re fit the track? The hangers are ok in our door they have just come away from the rail they should hang on , the bottom of the tambour door plastic is peeling and split with being wet so not such a great design I think . If we dont take the track off I am not sure how we will fit the new door.
 
Kirsten said:
Thank you Busybuilder , PeterC10 and CTC (y) Lowdhams have said the door is about £600 [argh but cheap compared to the Rapido roof light strip on another thread] I did think of a shower curtain but that doesnt give much privacy when guests/grandkids use the loo.... Thinking of buying the door and trying to fix it selves.... What can go wrong ?o_Oo_Oo_O:oops::oops::oops::oops:
Sarah thinks we should just bite bullet and pay Travelworld. ... Am thinking we should grasp nettle and DIY ... pointing to new shiny sink plug... and now know what it is called will resume search . xx Many thanks .

Another query to follow about fitting a towbar to take the bike rack we already have vs getting a bike rack fitted ; one expensive ordeal at a time .
Click to expand...
If all that as happened is the sliders coming out of the track, there should be a way to put them in again. You will have to do that anyway if you buy a new door. Just been out to look at my Tambour door and can't find a way of getting sliders back in though
 
Kirsten said:
The hangers are ok in our door they have just come away from the rail they should hang on , the bottom of the tambour door plastic is peeling and split with being wet so not such a great design I think . If we dont take the track off I am not sure how we will fit the new door.
Click to expand...
The plastic will not split because it becomes wet, that is the whole point of using plastic! We also have a Tambour door around our shower and that is always getting wet. I suspect it has split because of either accidental or deliberate damage, somebody kicking it maybe
 
Kirsten said:
Mr Smiffy thank you xx How did you take the track off as it goes behind the facia that holds the shower head. There are screws [capped off] in the top of this and possibly in the bottom - did you have to take the whole RHS wall thingy off to re fit the track? The hangers are ok in our door they have just come away from the rail they should hang on , the bottom of the tambour door plastic is peeling and split with being wet so not such a great design I think . If we dont take the track off I am not sure how we will fit the new door.
Click to expand...
Ok, I’ve just been out and reminded myself... I unscrewed the screws in the track (see pic) and moveved the track to the side then the door comes out... I then glued the hangers in... Putting it back together is reverse
It looks from your picture that someone has riveted the first hanger from the edge so must be a common problem...

undo the track first and get the door off then you’ll be able to see more and come to a conclusion..
It’s a two man job, one to feed it off and one to hold the door as it comes off..

AE87175D-44B3-46D4-8093-F64551DEB2EC.jpeg
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Thank you so much Mr Smiffy -
Mr Peter C 10 -wondering if previous owners got stuck in shower and kicked the door to get out ?
Will be looking to unscrew rail once have sourced new replacement screws as heads often shred - a 2 woman job it is then [OH doesnt yet know about this she is at work on computer in study ! Onwards !!

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when selecting new screws, they MUST be the same length, but buy stainless steel ones to prevent rusting. Just take one out temporarily to measure and order up the new ones
 
We have the same shower door but on a Hymer T698CL so probably a different shape track. And it was the track that failed last year - if you look at the tight inside radius on the photo part of it has broken. It had started to fracture years ago and I smoothed off the broken edge but it just got worse. Operating the door with the broken track caused the glue holding some of the plugs at the top of individual slats also to fail. This in turned caused more track damage on the gentler curve and the door to drop.

I reglued and clamped the plugs. The ever wonderful Chris Davies at Reliant (and Premier before that) ordered me a new track from Hymer that was an exact fit. I’m not sure if Chris has now left. Premier were not interested in ordering Hymer parts when I asked.

Manoeuvring the door back onto the new track and screwing It in place was not very easy but I managed. Have just reminded myself and wife to treat the door gently in the future.


30759291-B6AE-4931-8A0B-DEB60B841277.jpeg
 
WonkyBass said:
We have the same shower door but on a Hymer T698CL so probably a different shape track. And it was the track that failed last year - if you look at the tight inside radius on the photo part of it has broken. It had started to fracture years ago and I smoothed off the broken edge but it just got worse. Operating the door with the broken track caused the glue holding some of the plugs at the top of individual slats also to fail. This in turned caused more track damage on the gentler curve and the door to drop.

I reglued and clamped the plugs. The ever wonderful Chris Davies at Reliant (and Premier before that) ordered me a new track from Hymer that was an exact fit. I’m not sure if Chris has now left. Premier were not interested in ordering Hymer parts when I asked.

Manoeuvring the door back onto the new track and screwing It in place was not very easy but I managed. Have just reminded myself and wife to treat the door gently in the future.
Click to expand...

View attachment 407060

In the photo above, remove the screws from the exposed end of the track and allow it to drop and the door will slide all the way out. Do any repairs and feed the sliders back onto the track to rehang the door. Slide it all the way closed and re-insert the screws you took out

The last tambour bathroom door I fixed needed about 6 mm removed from each of the slat bottoms then when greased with silicone spray worked perfectly
 
Kirsten said:
Thank you so much Mr Smiffy -
Mr Peter C 10 -wondering if previous owners got stuck in shower and kicked the door to get out ?
Will be looking to unscrew rail once have sourced new replacement screws as heads often shred - a 2 woman job it is then [OH doesnt yet know about this she is at work on computer in study ! Onwards !!
Click to expand...
Once one of the hangers comes out of the track it puts more pressure on the remaining and then more pop out... if you just undo the first set of screws from the front You don’t have to undo them all or take the whole track out, you’ll be able to straighten the track out Carefully as it were and the door will come out then you can make sure all the hangers Are properly fixed in then put it all back together.... the screws will come out easy as with most on a motorhome there just screwed into balsa wood...
As said before it looks like someone previously riveted the hanger in rather then glued.. I’m pretty sure you’ll find nothing broken or worn with it, it’s just one hanger giving up and the rest follow....
A fairly easy but fiddly fix..👍🏼

mines been fine since....

if in doubt just buy my motorhome... it’s up for sale..😁 problem solved👍🏼

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Just smiffy said:
Ok, I’ve just been out and reminded myself... I unscrewed the screws in the track (see pic) and moveved the track to the side then the door comes out... I then glued the hangers in... Putting it back together is reverse
It looks from your picture that someone has riveted the first hanger from the edge so must be a common problem...

undo the track first and get the door off then you’ll be able to see more and come to a conclusion..
It’s a two man job, one to feed it off and one to hold the door as it comes off..

View attachment 407058View attachment 407059
Click to expand...
exactly what I did, lot cheaper than a replacement, use some lubricant on the runners as it will make it easier - less likely to become an issue.
 
If you remove the screws, measure the size and thread and get slightly bigger (NOT longer) screws so if No4 screws replace with No6. And use stainless steel, try screwfix or toolstation for these.

If you can get the door off, post up some pictures as we may be able to suggest a repair rather than a replacement. I've looked at mine and they are fairly simple design.

Get some silicone spray at same time, a spray 2 or 3 times a year will make the door run silently and smoothly.
 
Thank you all SOOOOOOOO much ! This may be my Wednesday task - today I have been laying slabs in the garden [surprisingly heavy !] to facilitate Grandchildren lounging in the cheapo blow up hot tub we bought. Something about no peace for the wicked springs to mind. I will make a list ... peer at the screws- find my fantastic new [light! battery drill that also is a screwdriver and begin ! Hampered by herself [NHS and HMP job] glued to the computer literally from 8 am until 7 pm but with promise of holiday in van with working door may extract her for a bit of help . Grandchildren unfortunately too wee [and too handless ] to help yet . Cats no help they just yowl from roof through skylights.
Thank all gods and goddesses for Motor home fun peoples. Eternally grateful ! xxxx You are the best xx
 
I would use an ordinary hand screw driver, electric drivers tend to be a bit fierce for the lack of solid material in motorhomes and so easy to strip threads and round off screw heads. 👍🏼
 
Hi, I see your in Stratford upon Avon...you could do no worse that speak to Pete Curry at Mickleton :

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www.northcotsmotorhomeservices.com

He does seem to specialise in older Hymers but maybe can give you advice / pointers on a resolution..

I've used him and he's a great guy.. search for my Hymer damp problem thread..

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Thank you Mr Highway 1.....always good to have a personal recommendation xx
 
Temporary fix - we took the door off [easy peasy thank you !!] cleaned it and runner [OMG it was FEEEEEELTHY] peeled off the broken plastic ,scrubbed mould off. cleaned the funny bendy feet things at the base and noticed several missing and the screws that kept them in place a bit randomly fitted- a previous fix I think had been attempted. Nice strong Gaffer tape across the base and then saw another tambour door thread on MHF- must be something in the ether.
Put door back - NOT easy peasy ; involved unscrewing the runner lots of re trying and heaving... fixed at last but a new door is needed at some point.

Images show the foot thing at the base - anyone know the name

of these please ?
the mouldy bits we removed
and the final outcomeIMG_1798.jpegIMG_1795.jpegIMG_1799.jpeg

Now the [to us at least... innocents or what ?] interesting bit ...[although obviously you have all been on the edges of seats so far !!]

We have had 3 quotes for the price of a new door. 2 from Hymer dealer peoples ; one from a camper specialist [looks the same, 30 mm longer but easy to cut ... not yet been to see it in real life. But going !]

Anyone want to make a guess of the span of the 3 price differences ?? xxxx
 

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