Autowatch 695RLC alarm system...

Clankie

Clankie

LIFE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 21, 2015
Posts
95
Likes collected
45
Location
Devon
Funster No
35,192
MH
Coach built Majestic 125
Exp
2013
Hi my MH is an Elddis Accordo 125, actually a Majestic 125 as it’s Marquis Dealer Special December 2015. It is fitted with the above alarm system which is Thatcham approved Cat 2-1 upgrade, their words.

Appart from PIR and Ultrasonic sensors in the habitation area it has 2 door sensors on cab plus a sensor on bonnet and habitation door.
The latter are easy to spot however I can’t find the location of the sensors on the Peugeot cab doors.

Anyone out there with any knowledge of where these components might be fitted.

The fault I have is the “system“ thinks I have a door open when I try to lock and arm the Autowatch system with the Peugeot key fob. It gives 3 chirps. I have reverted to locking the van with the key only one lock fitted, driver door.

I phoned the dealers for assistance but they are closed due to Covid.
 
Is your battery charged up ok ? I’ve just had a problem with our engine battery going flat . After charging from a smart charger ( with the earth cable disconnected) we reconnected the earth and the alarm went off. However after disarming with the fob and lock-in the doors with the key it sorted itself out.
Our sensors are on the windscreen pillars , they look like little tiny speakers.
 
The 3 likely causes are, battery needs replacing in the PIR, the bonnet switch is either shot or the bonnet insulation has become depressed by the bonnet switch plunger or the hab door reed switch has failed.

I have had all 3 of these cause our Autowatch 695RLC alarm to go rogue at one time or another.
 
Last edited:
Two on Tour said:
The 3 likely causes are, battery needs replacing in the PIR, the bonnet switch is either shot or the bonnet insulation has become depressed by the bonnet switch plunger or the hab door reed switch has failed.

I have had all 3 of these cause our Autowatch 695RLC alarm to go rough at one time or another.
Click to expand...
Yes I forgot about that. We had the bonnet switch problem where the insulation under the bonnet was compressed allowing the switch to make contact and trigger the alarm, now sorted.

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Hi Clankie,
I had same problem with my 2016 Elddis , I put it out there and was guided by Two on Tour , found my problem was the reed sensor on the door.
rectified within a hour of receipt of a new sensor.

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Hey Two on Tour, thank you for all feedback. As the PIR had new batteries, fitted yesterday I suspect the hab door switch has failed. I will remove same this morning weather permitting, then with the component in my hand source a replacement.
The bonnet switch looks ok I checked it the other day, only mechanically. I could get my wife to hold down the bonnet switch manually and see if there is any change. I didn’t realise the Ultrasonic sensors on the frame, top of windscreen monitored the cab doors, I was looking for sensors same as hab door, no wonder I couldn’t find them!!!

Tyrefixer, where did you get the replacement hab door switch?

Will report findings....
Cheers👍👍
 
Lenny HB said:
Had them on 3 vans over the last 12 years excellent product.
Click to expand...
Same view here. 5 years on our van with no problems. Good value, well made product. Don’t see the point paying more for an alarm system.

Its worth changing the sensor batteries every couple of years as preventative maintenance though. Particularly the PIR one as ours has shown it can give a false alarm when it gets low.
 
Clankie if you have not already found the hab door contact, the look for the magnet near the bottom of your hab door and opposite that on the door frame will be the contact.

1613638617838.png
1613638638034.png


Be careful when trying to remove the contact because on mine the flyscreen frame trapped the wire so I had to remove the flyscreen frame to allow the contact wire to pull through.

The contact is not your normal "normally closed" for an alarm, but is a "normally open" type which are not easy to find. The only supplier I found was Huntors Fire and Security.

https://www.hunters-wholesalers.co....rmally-open-pencil-flush-contact-p-71522.html


PM me if you need any help.
 
That’s what I have, small white plastic cover opposite magnet, will try later this morning, thanks for switch open/closed info. I’m not sure how to PM? Is it in the help?

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Just opened the link, fantastic, saved it to favourites, thank you. My Autowatch has been trouble free till now so I can’t complain. Cheers for taking photos as well, a picture is better than 1 page of text!👍
 
Mrjenben said:
Same view here. 5 years on our van with no problems. Good value, well made product. Don’t see the point paying more for an alarm system.

Its worth changing the sensor batteries every couple of years as preventative maintenance though. Particularly the PIR one as ours has shown it can give a false alarm when it gets low.
Click to expand...
Didn't have a PIR on the current van, because they set the alarm off if you leave the van with the heating on, also if it's windy with a rooflight open.
 
Lenny HB said:
Didn't have a PIR on the current van, because they set the alarm off if you leave the van with the heating on, also if it's windy with a rooflight open.
Click to expand...
I don’t think we’ve had that problem, even when out on a skiing trip so the heating has definitely been left on. Maybe it depends on the location of the sensor? Will keep an eye out for it in future though thanks!
 
You can check which sensor is faulty. Open the hab door and try to set the alarm with the door open. The alarm should give a series of bleeps to indicate that the door is not closed. If this happens your sensor is working. Open the bonnet and repeat. My hab door sensor was faulty. I could open the door and the alarm didn't go off.
I did also have a problem with the bonnet sensor. Elddis fit a cube of foam behind the insulation on the underside of the bonnet. This was not fixed in place (just pushed in) and over time it had moved allowing the insulation to get compressed.
I stuck the cube in with some silicon to keep it in the correct location. (i.e. at the point of contact for the sensor)

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ontheroadagain said:
You can check which sensor is faulty. Open the hab door and try to set the alarm with the door open. The alarm should give a series of bleeps to indicate that the door is not closed. If this happens your sensor is working. Open the bonnet and repeat. My hab door sensor was faulty. I could open the door and the alarm didn't go off.
I did also have a problem with the bonnet sensor. Elddis fit a cube of foam behind the insulation on the underside of the bonnet. This was not fixed in place (just pushed in) and over time it had moved allowing the insulation to get compressed.
I stuck the cube in with some silicon to keep it in the correct location. (i.e. at the point of contact for the sensor)
Click to expand...
To check which sensor is faulty there is a sequence of turning the ignition off and of in certain time periods but it is a fine art, info is online.
 
We've had this alarm on our last 3 (might be 4!) campers/MHs and never had any issues with them at all, on the last few we've also had wireless PIRs and they've never caused issues either.
 
Diagnostic test carried out, hab door micro switch faulty, now removed. Awaiting new switch £5+p&p but although the hab door is not armed the rest of the van is. I check it by going in and the PIR set off the alarm. Now I can arm and lock so great result.
A big thanks to all who contributed! I also NOW know the Ultrasonics sensors protect the cab door. If only they gave a decent description of the system in the technical pack! Yesterday I was looking for micro switches on the cab doors and frames, you learn something every day ech!
👍👍
 
I think when you fit a new switch you have to reprogram all the sensors and switches.
 
Lenny HB said:
I think when you fit a new switch you have to reprogram all the sensors and switches.
Click to expand...
No, that's not fully the case Lenny as I have replaces two faulty hab door contact and they are dumb on a hardwired connection, but if a wireless contact is replaced then they need to be programmed into the system.

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I’m aware that this is an old-ish thread but what does a Cat 2-1 upgrade actually mean for this system?
For insurance purposes, is it regarded as a Cat 1, or a Cat 2 alarm?
Thanks in advance for any clarification.
 
CAT 2 is the manufacturers immobiliser by adding an approved alarm it upgrades it to CAT 1.
 
Ah. OK. Many thanks for this info, Lenny. Much appreciated. (y)
 
My issue with the auto watch is it wont disable or open the doors !!..two keyfobs all good and working ?..concerned about
opening with key in case alarm wont shut off !!
 
zannstu said:
My issue with the auto watch is it wont disable or open the doors !!..two keyfobs all good and working ?..concerned about
opening with key in case alarm wont shut off !!
Click to expand...

Can you give us a bit more details as what you have said appears to contradict itself.

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