appplying underbody wax treatment

Discussion in 'Motorhome Chat' started by Paul J, Apr 15, 2018.

  1. Paul J

    Paul J Funster

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    So, I've a few weeks to wait for my Rollerteam T-Line 590. I've decided to make sure I get this vehicle sprayed with Dinitrol under body wax, I've had similar on various vehicles over the years, and can vouch for the huge difference it makes, I feel it's worth the cost and effort. I'd like to do this myself for a couple of reasons, I actually enjoyed doing the previous motorhome, it's a lot cheaper cheaper than some professional centres.... and I'll actually know that I've done a decent job rather than hope they did. Only problem is, this is a pretty low motorhome, and I can't scoot underneath it like I did with my old Bessacarr.
    I'm not aware this vehicle will fit on my local trusted mechanics electric lift, but I can certainly have him help get it off the ground somehow. Im guessing we can drive it up ramps at one end and chock it safely ?
    hmmmm, wondering about borrowing somewhere that has an MOT pit, will that likely be sizeable enough to get around to spray the treatment on ?
    any ideas or suggestions appreciated
     
  2. SandraL

    SandraL Funster

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    Hydraulic trolley jack and axle stands, but ones rated to load rather than car units.
     
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  3. Theonlysue

    Theonlysue Funster Life Member

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    I think hymers waxoil theirs as standard
     
  4. Feltwell

    Feltwell Funster

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    You *enjoy* doing it?? Crikey, I spent yesterday underneath my van touching up the pro Dinitrol job that was done 3 years ago, I hate it!! Nasty, smelly, mucky 'orrible job, and that's from someone who regularly crawls under vehicles!

    But each to their own! I think the problem you'll have is finding someone who is happy for their ramp to get grotty from the inevitable Dinitrol drips. If you're lucky maybe an HGV place who has an outside pit they use for steam cleaning, if you can persuade them to let you use it. Otherwise, axle stands on the drive I'd say, doing the front and rear separately.

    I had mine done by JR Classics which wasn't cheap but you do get what you pay for - he had it for a week, stripped the wheel arch linings off and lots of other bits like the door linings and bonnet sound insulation to really do it properly. I've had various bits of the van apart in the 3 years since and I've been impressed by the job he did, very thorough. He doesn't use a lift, he has two "tippers" that sit under the wheels on one side and tilt the van over. I could go back and see him to get my van touched up every year, he only charges £25 to do this, but he is a long drive away for me.

    Some of the rustproofing places you see advertise say that they do it in a day - steam clean then treat - don't even take the wheels off, I don't see how they can ensure the vulnerable hidden places are done. I also wouldn't be happy that it was properly dry after steam cleaning, especially if done same day.
     
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  5. Ninovan

    Ninovan Funster

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    Ooops! Thought this was to do with bikini lines lol. :groan: :imoutahere:
     
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  6. Paul J

    Paul J Funster

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    thanks for all of your replies, I'm going to get in touch with JR Classics, might be worth a chat, at least :)

    Paul
     
  7. Feltwell

    Feltwell Funster

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    Just bear in mind your van will stink to high heaven inside for about 4 weeks afterwards! I drove home from JR high as a kite on the Dinitrol fumes, even though he'd finished the job 2 days previous......getting it into all the box sections and closed off bits means it takes a while to evaporate off all the solvent. In all seriousness don't plan to go away for at least 3 weeks after treatment would be my advice - and expect a few drips on your drive the first hot summer after treatment.
     
  8. Paul J

    Paul J Funster

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    I got in touch with JR, they need it for several days and quoted £780.... which is taking some coming to terms with. The logistics of it ending up down there for a few days is not going to be so easy. It'll certainly be being done, just not so sure it'll be down at JR. Thank you very much for the advice though, it's a starting point at least
     
  9. Lenny HB

    Lenny HB Funster

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    Nope, both the Fiat bit & the Al-Ko chassis are galvanized and you are not supposed to treat galvanizing with anything. I'm sure it says on the Al-Ko info do not coat with anything. although the Fiat bit is painted over like most cars.
     
  10. Paul J

    Paul J Funster

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    just remind me what exactly an Al-Ko chassis is ? (excuse my ignorance) ..... and this is something used on the Rollerteam vans ?
     
  11. funflair

    funflair Funster Life Member

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    Al-Ko is a chassis manufactured for motorhomes and fixed to the Ducato van front (assuming its on Fiat) you can tell if it's Al-Ko as it will be galvanised, the alternative is the standard Fiat chassis which it would appear is used by Rollerteam. The image is from their web site.

    fdbf7baf87c31aa14eb9aff9767724111d293576.jpg

    Martin
     
  12. Lenny HB

    Lenny HB Funster

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    A chassis made by Al-Ko that bolts onto the Fiat cab, often standard sometimes an extra
    Generally gives a better ride and handling, has torsion bar suspension instead of coil springs.
    I don't know if Roller Team fit Al-Ko chassis, a look at the chassis will tell. Fiat one will be painted white with coil springs, Al-Ko one will be bright galvanizing with no springs also there will be a Al-Ko weight plate under the bonnet.
     
  13. Paul J

    Paul J Funster

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    I have a feeling that it's not Al-Ko then, it certainly doesn't jump out on Rollerteams website, and that seems to list a lot of spec. I'd better get undersealing then ! ;)
     
  14. BusyBuilder

    BusyBuilder Funster

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    I think you mean leaf springs.
     
  15. ChrisL

    ChrisL Funster

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  16. funflair

    funflair Funster Life Member

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    Thats the Al-Ko with torsion bars yes, the debate was for the standard Fiat chassis, cart springs on the rear.

    Martin
     
  17. ChrisL

    ChrisL Funster

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    Ahh sorry if i misunderstood. :sleep:
     
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