Another battery query

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Adria Matrix 670DC
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Motorhoming since 2018.
Can anyone explain a symbol on my Control panel. It’s orange in colour, a circle with the letter A in the middle with an arc above with a plus and minus at either end.
If I push it a separate red A appears below with a minus against it.
After a short while the same letter A turns Green with a plus against it.
Could it be something to do with the charger as the leasure batteries have dropped from 13.6 volt to 10.8, and the TV as switched off. We haven’t got anything else switched on.

it’s an Adria Matrix 2016
Thanks in anticipation Derry
 
Can anyone explain a symbol on my Control panel. It’s orange in colour, a circle with the letter A in the middle with an arc above with a plus and minus at either end.
If I push it a separate red A appears below with a minus against it.
After a short while the same letter A turns Green with a plus against it.
Could it be something to do with the charger as the leasure batteries have dropped from 13.6 volt to 10.8, and the TV as switched off. We haven’t got anything else switched on.

it’s an Adria Matrix 2016
Thanks in anticipation Derry
Here are a couple of photos.
 

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Here are a couple of photos.
The photo ending 4B97 shows the symbol A with arch above (top right of 6 symbols) the other image show the symbol A minus just below 05.

leasure batteries were reading 10.8 when went to bed last night, now reading 13.6 when we got up, which suggest the solar panel is working.
Please if anyone can offer advice it would be greatly received. Many Thanks. Derry.
PS. I have 2 x 110ah gel batteries installed, these were installed when the van was new in June 2016.
Thanks once again
 
Your batteries are flat.
The first symbol is a bit like an old ammeter so it's probably something to do with amps.
 
The photo ending 4B97 shows the symbol A with arch above (top right of 6 symbols) the other image show the symbol A minus just below 05.

leasure batteries were reading 10.8 when went to bed last night, now reading 13.6 when we got up, which suggest the solar panel is working.
Please if anyone can offer advice it would be greatly received. Many Thanks. Derry.
PS. I have 2 x 110ah gel batteries installed, these were installed when the van was new in June 2016.
Thanks once again

My guess is that it selects the ammeter, which shows how much charge/discharge is happening to the selected battery. This will show negative (red) when discharging and positive (green) when charging. The number shown will be the number of amps of charge/discharge.

As the battery voltage fell as low as 10.8V, they may well be damaged and might have significantly reduced remaining capacity. It is likely that you used more energy than you had available given the state of the batteries and your charging capacity.

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leasure batteries were reading 10.8 when went to bed last night, now reading 13.6 when we got up, which suggest the solar panel is working.
If the batteries were at 10.8v its time for new ones.
13.8v is the solar charge voltage and NOT the actual battery voltage.
At best you've had 3 hours of sun on the solar panel...... That's far from long enough to recharge from 10.8v.
 
I think the second photo is showing a .5 amp discharge, as has been said it may be a good idea to have your batteries checked and at the very least get them fully charged on hook up.
 
I think the second photo is showing a .5 amp discharge, as has been said it may be a good idea to have your batteries checked and at the very least get them fully charged on hook up.
Chris
If, as you suggest, I plug in the EHU and charge the batteries using the onboard charger when I get home, do I need to disconnect the solar panel. If so is it an easy thing to do, or do I leave it connected. Thanks Derry
 
Chris
If, as you suggest, I plug in the EHU and charge the batteries using the onboard charger when I get home, do I need to disconnect the solar panel. If so is it an easy thing to do, or do I leave it connected. Thanks Derry
You can leave it connected 👍

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You shouldn't need to disconnect your solar panels unless you intend to remove the batteries, if you do need to remove the batteries, find the fuse between the solar panels and the controller and remove it first before disconnecting the batteries or disconnect the solar panels at the input to the controller if there is no fuse or cover the solar panels with a blanket or something to stop light hitting the panels, Once the new or fully charged batteries are installed and connected replace the fuse or reconnect the solar panel to the controller.
 
The voltage of 13.6V is simply telling you that something (presumably the solar) is charging the battery. If you want to know the state of charge of the battery, stop all charging to it (at night for example) and wait for it to settle to its 'resting voltage'.

The resting voltage should be between 12.8V (fully charged) and 12.0V (as low as you should take it). If it drops fairly quickly to around 10.5V then that's a classic 'shorted cell' failure, and a new battery is needed.
 
Thank you to everyone that's taken the time to respond along with tips and advice.

I'm now back home and have switched everything off at the control panel and connected the EHU which if I'm correct should charge both leisure batteries. I will leave it on charge until Sunday afternoon (24hours) them as suggested by ChrisL I'll test each battery separately. One final question, I assume I will need to disconnect the short red and black leads between each battery (see attached image), or will I need to disconnect all the leads, if so do I need to do anything else to prevent damaging any other components. I've also attached images of the solar controller and charger.
 

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First job: make sure they are charging. Does the display in the van tell you anything? Something like +6 (the ammeter) or voltage wise 13+ volts = charging 👍

Bear in mind if a battery is faulty it can get hot while charging.
 
When I see the latest control panel it looks so complicated ,I think I’m glad ive stuck with what I know ,mine seams so simple.

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When I see the latest control panel it looks so complicated ,I think I’m glad ive stuck with what I know ,mine seams so simple.
Our 2014 van must have been one of the last switch panels. 😎 4 rocker switches, an LED and a moving coil meter 😍
 
If you are testing each battery individually then it would be better to disconnect all leads, remember to disconnect or cover the solar panels first and also wait a couple of hours after disconnecting the hook up lead so that residual voltage from charging has disapated, then use a multi meter to check each battery separately, let us know what voltage's you have and then perhaps we can advise further.
 
If you are testing each battery individually then it would be better to disconnect all leads, remember to disconnect or cover the solar panels first and also wait a couple of hours after disconnecting the hook up lead so that residual voltage from charging has disapated, then use a multi meter to check each battery separately, let us know what voltage's you have and then perhaps we can advise further.
Thanks Chris. rather than disconnecting all the leads and covering the solar panel, could I simply test both batteries as one, looking at my above images test across the 2 terminal under the blue and red plastic covers. Or am I just being lazy.
Thanks once again. Derry
 
Thanks Chris. rather than disconnecting all the leads and covering the solar panel, could I simply test both batteries as one, looking at my above images test across the 2 terminal under the blue and red plastic covers. Or am I just being lazy.
Thanks once again. Derry
You could but it wouldn't be as good. Just disconnect all the red cables, the blacks are just earth straps you can leave on.
 
I believe the reason for covering or disconnecting the solar panel first is to prevent damage to the controller, when you've finished testing or replacing the batteries connect them to the controller first then reconnect or uncover the panels. If you're not confident with electrics, it may be better to get an auto electrician to do the job for you, whilst you won't get a shock from 12 volts you could cause a fire and or damage some of the electronics and wiring.

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ChrisL Richard n Ann

Good afternoon both, a bit of an update.

I put the batteries on charge at 3:15pm on Friday.
Today (Sunday) at 4:45pm I have completely covered the Solar Panel so there is no light whatsoever getting to it.
At 5:10pm I disconnected all leads from both batteries, so the batteries are sitting in the seat box completely free of any cables.
I tested both batteries at 5.15pm, they are both reading 13.5v.
I am using a multi meter set on V40 to test the batteries.

It is my intention to test both batteries at c7:30am tomorrow (Monday) and again at 5:15pm. Depending on results (I'm assuming if they are above 12.6v) they are fine and I can connect all cables ?
 
ChrisL Richard n Ann

Good afternoon both, a bit of an update.

I put the batteries on charge at 3:15pm on Friday.
Today (Sunday) at 4:45pm I have completely covered the Solar Panel so there is no light whatsoever getting to it.
At 5:10pm I disconnected all leads from both batteries, so the batteries are sitting in the seat box completely free of any cables.
I tested both batteries at 5.15pm, they are both reading 13.5v.
I am using a multi meter set on V40 to test the batteries.

It is my intention to test both batteries at c7:30am tomorrow (Monday) and again at 5:15pm. Depending on results (I'm assuming if they are above 12.6v) they are fine and I can connect all cables ?
Yes that's one test but it won't test the capacity, and if one battery is at the end of it's life it will drag the other one down.

If it were me, I'd put a 10w bulb on each battery for 25 hours. If they (or 1) is buggered it probably won't last the 25hrs.

If they do last disconnect everything again for 2 hours, then measure the voltage and compare it to the chart below.. you've taken out roughly 20ah so a new 100ah battery should read 12.3v or above. Yours will be lower, anything below 12v I'd scrap it.

Screenshot_20210406-171100_Opera.jpg
 
Thanks Richard n Ann
I'll take a reading in the morning, then connect a 10w bulb to each battery as you suggest, and take it from there.
 
Yes that's one test but it won't test the capacity, and if one battery is at the end of it's life it will drag the other one down.

If it were me, I'd put a 10w bulb on each battery for 25 hours. If they (or 1) is buggered it probably won't last the 25hrs.

If they do last disconnect everything again for 2 hours, then measure the voltage and compare it to the chart below.. you've taken out roughly 20ah so a new 100ah battery should read 12.3v or above. Yours will be lower, anything below 12v I'd scrap it.

View attachment 538872
Richard n Ann.

Hope you don't mind me just checking your calculations. Would not a 12volt 10watt bulb left on for 25 hours = 250Ahrs ?

Thanks Derry
 
Richard n Ann.

Hope you don't mind me just checking your calculations. Would not a 12volt 10watt bulb left on for 25 hours = 250Ahrs ?

Thanks Derry

No. A 12V 10A bulb will draw less than an amp.

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No. A 12V 10A bulb will draw less than an amp.
cmcardle75 Is that 1amp per hour ? So if the test lamp (fitted with a 12v 10a festoon bulb) is left on permanently for 25hours would represent a draw of c20Ahrs ?

Thanks once again. Derry
 
10 watt bulb guys not 10 amps, amp/hrs are calculated watts divided by volts so 10/12 = .83 amps/hr x 25 hrs = 20.75 amps. At the end of 25 hrs check battery voltage against the chart posted above after disconnecting the bulb and waiting an hour to allow the battery to recover. That will tell you how much capacity you have remaing after drawing a known number of amps. So if the battery voltage chart indicates 50% for example then you know your batteries capacity is 20.75 x 2 = 41.5 amps which would be bad for a 100 ah battery.
 
Thanks once again to all.

Derry
 
cmcardle75 Is that 1amp per hour ? So if the test lamp (fitted with a 12v 10a festoon bulb) is left on permanently for 25hours would represent a draw of c20Ahrs ?

Thanks once again. Derry

It would be 1A (well slightly less). Not 1A per hour, which doesn't make sense (that unit would actually represent the acceleration of current usage, which is irrelevant to this situation). If you ran a 1A device for one hour, it would use 1Ah. A 12V 10W festoon bulb would use approximately 21Ah over 25 hours, assuming all the wattages and voltages were the same as their rated values).

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