Alarm/immobiliser battery drain Sigma M30 (1 Viewer)

Feb 13, 2017
127
9
Newcastle
Funster No
47,304
MH
2007 N-B Arto 69 EGB
Exp
I'm a newbie
We have a Sigma M30 alarm/immobiliser on our van.

The immobiliser function triggers automatically so that it is always on when you turn off the ignition. This is meant to be a great security feature and there are no instructions on how to disable this.

Unfortunately it also seems to be a significant battery drain which is a problem as our van is kept on a storage site.

We have a solar panel (80w) and battery master which is enough in Summer to keep the leisure and vehicle batteries reasonably charged. This is the first winter that we have had the van and the vehicle battery seems to be dropping quickly.

I left the van on Monday with voltage on a new vehicle battery showing on the panel as 13.0 and came back 6 days later to find it on 12.0. It started OK but I just haven't got time to visit the van every few days all Winter. It is driving me mad at the moment!

We've already spent a lot of money on the van so I am looking for the most cost effective solution and not really wanting to spend hundreds on more solar or a new expensive alarm system - but I am open to all good ideas!

Does anybody know if it is possible to turn the immobiliser off or have any other good ideas for how to solve this problem? (Obviously need to check doing this with insurance company).

Would be really grateful for help. Really need to get this sorted.

With thanks,

Andy
 
Feb 22, 2011
9,641
19,822
Newcastle under Lyme
Funster No
15,397
MH
Hymer B544 A Class
Exp
Since 2015
I`m far from an expert but I`d be suprised if it was the immobiliser causing the drain.
Maybe the techies on here will know otherwise.
Is there anything else it could be ?
 
OP
OP
A
Feb 13, 2017
127
9
Newcastle
Funster No
47,304
MH
2007 N-B Arto 69 EGB
Exp
I'm a newbie
The alarm was not fitted by the manufacturer and my understanding is that they are fairly notorious for this?

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Lenny HB

LIFE MEMBER
Oct 18, 2007
52,715
147,684
On the coast in West Sussex
Funster No
658
MH
Hymer B678 DL
Exp
Since 2008 & many years tugging
I would expect the starter battery to last at least 3 weeks without being topped up via the leisure battery and solar.
First thing to do it check the battery voltage with a multimeter and compare it to the panel just to make sure you are not getting a false reading as with the starter battery at 12v I would not expect it to turn the engine over.
If your reading is correct without taking into any solar input you are using around 12a/h a day. Also if the Battery master and solar are working it would suggest your are using a lot more power than that. Have done the obvious checks like radio if off they can flatten a battery in a few days. Unless the alarm has totally failed its not going to draw that sort of current.
 
OP
OP
A
Feb 13, 2017
127
9
Newcastle
Funster No
47,304
MH
2007 N-B Arto 69 EGB
Exp
I'm a newbie
It is a combination - but I'm not leaving the alarm on. The immobiliser is impossible to turn off.

How likely is it that the moho panel is giving a false reading?
 

Jammel1980

Free Member
Jul 18, 2017
80
62
Hockley
Funster No
49,513
MH
Mobilvetta Top Driver 68
Exp
Newbie
We have a sigma M30 alarm and immobiliser on our MH, we also have a battery master and solar and our starter battery has never gone flat once, (not even close), even after 5 weeks of sitting still prior to the battery master being fitted it only went down to 12.5v.
I would say you have a rather large drain on it other than the alarm/immobiliser.
 

funflair

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Dec 11, 2013
19,199
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Guisborough
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MORELO palace
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since 2012
We also have the Sigma Alarm and immobiliser and likewise our starter battery would certainly struggle to last two weeks and reality I think not much more than a week.

My solution is 1/ keep using the van 2/ 4X80watt solar when outside and when it's in the shed I have an EFOY fuel cell that looks after things as of course the solar doesn't work inside.

Not suggesting the EFOY as a solution to the OP just my way of getting around the issue.


Martin

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OP
OP
A
Feb 13, 2017
127
9
Newcastle
Funster No
47,304
MH
2007 N-B Arto 69 EGB
Exp
I'm a newbie
Martin - is your alarm also the M30?

I'm pretty sure that the panel readigs are accurate. On the previous starter battery the engine started fine when the panel was showing the reading as anything down to 12v. It struggled to start (but did) when the panel was showing 11.8 and would not start when it was showing 11.6. Isn't that the performance you would expect from those readings?
 
OP
OP
A
Feb 13, 2017
127
9
Newcastle
Funster No
47,304
MH
2007 N-B Arto 69 EGB
Exp
I'm a newbie
We also have the Sigma Alarm and immobiliser and likewise our starter battery would certainly struggle to last two weeks and reality I think not much more than a week.

My solution is 1/ keep using the van 2/ 4X80watt solar when outside and when it's in the shed I have an EFOY fuel cell that looks after things as of course the solar doesn't work inside.

Not suggesting the EFOY as a solution to the OP just my way of getting around the issue.


Martin
Martin - that all seems like a bit of an expensive solution. Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier for me just to get a new alarm system?

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funflair

LIFE MEMBER
Dec 11, 2013
19,199
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Guisborough
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29,351
MH
MORELO palace
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since 2012
If the battery was really at 12v that is only 25% state of charge I find it hard to believe the engine would have started, so well worth checking.

I know that ours starts fine at 12.2volts on the panel readout and I think it would at 12volts, I don't think our panel is a million miles out 0.1volt possibly.

Martin
 

funflair

LIFE MEMBER
Dec 11, 2013
19,199
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Guisborough
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29,351
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MORELO palace
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since 2012
Martin - that all seems like a bit of an expensive solution. Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier for me just to get a new alarm system?
Hi Andy

I wasn't suggesting that as your solution, I wanted the solar and EFOY anyway(y)

I don't know if it is the alarm that causes the drain, as you know we also have a tracker fitted so it could be that in our case or just a combination of all the things that act as a drain.

If you think that it is the alarm/immobiliser that is causing your issue a specialist should be able to disable it to answer the question.

Martin
 

Lenny HB

LIFE MEMBER
Oct 18, 2007
52,715
147,684
On the coast in West Sussex
Funster No
658
MH
Hymer B678 DL
Exp
Since 2008 & many years tugging
I know that ours starts fine at 12.2volts on the panel readout and I think it would at 12volts, I don't think our panel is a million miles out 0.1volt possibly.

Martin
The difference between 12.2v and 12.0v is 50% state of charge and 25% state of charge, quite a lot. Not uncommon for a panel to be 0.2 out.

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Apr 27, 2016
6,803
7,848
Manchester
Funster No
42,762
MH
A class Hymer
Exp
Since the 80s
If your reading is correct without taking into any solar input you are using around 12a/h a day. Also if the Battery master and solar are working it would suggest your are using a lot more power than that.

Modern auto electronic units (radio, engine management, ABS etc) do not have a hardwired on-off switch. They power down by commands on the CAN bus or from the internal software. They have several levels of 'off', but when in storage they should all be in 'deep sleep' mode, drawing a few microamps, or possibly a milliamp or two. There is a possible fault mode where a unit either fails to go into deep sleep mode, or wakes up at the wrong time due to for example a lightning pulse or other radio interference.

To check for this, you need a meter that will measure small currents of a few milliamps, without having to disconnect the circuit to perform the measurement. A good clamp meter will do this.

First, measure the total drain current by clamping round the main battery feed. If the drain current is higher than you expect, hunt round all the possible candidates until you narrow the culprit down.

Note that not all clamp meters measure DC current, and many clamp meters are used for high currents and do not have a low current measurement mode. I use this one: UNI-T 210E

Amazon product ASIN B00O1Q2HOQ
 

dave newell

Free Member
Oct 31, 2008
3,262
4,369
Telford, Shropshire
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4,733
MH
Home converted PVC
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26yrs
The immobiliser will not use any current when the ignition is off and immobilized, it is essentially just a relay or two that are normally open. The alarm will have a small current draw when set, typically 20-40 milliamps. Instead of guessing at where the drain is you need to do some proper diagnostic tests with an ammeter.

D.
 
OP
OP
A
Feb 13, 2017
127
9
Newcastle
Funster No
47,304
MH
2007 N-B Arto 69 EGB
Exp
I'm a newbie
The immobiliser will not use any current when the ignition is off and immobilized, it is essentially just a relay or two that are normally open. The alarm will have a small current draw when set, typically 20-40 milliamps. Instead of guessing at where the drain is you need to do some proper diagnostic tests with an ammeter.

D.
Thanks Dave. I want to get somebody onto this who really knows what they're doing. Is the best person to ask to do this an auto-electrician?

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dave newell

Free Member
Oct 31, 2008
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Telford, Shropshire
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Home converted PVC
Exp
26yrs
Thanks Dave. I want to get somebody onto this who really knows what they're doing. Is the best person to ask to do this an auto-electrician?

Well I suppose the BEST person would be the one who installed the alarm but realistically yes a good auto electrician should be able to sort it for you.

D.
 
Jun 30, 2011
7,191
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Barnard Castle, UK
Funster No
17,128
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Concorde Concerto
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Since 2007


Just don't get Olivers to fit you a solar panel, did one for us about 10 years ago, bonded it straight to the roof without brackets and no air gap whatsoever, had to get it taken off and fitted properly, Olivers then paid the bill.
They will probably be good at alarms though which I believe is their speciality.
 

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