Accessing fuse box in Ducato engine compartment?

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

Hi all. I have to replace the dashboard 12V supply fuse in our 2019 Ducato PVC because it blew while powering a tyre pump. Does anyone know if the fuse box in the engine compartment can be opened and accessed without removing the nearside headlamp? Looks like it may be possible, although I have seen a YouTube video where a very informative guy recommended removing the headlamp to make it easier. I'd rather not remove the headlamp if I can avoid it. Pouring down at the moment so I am trying to plan ahead for tomorrow. Thanks for any comments.

 

[minipoppy]

Hi all. I have to replace the dashboard 12V supply fuse in our 2019 Ducato PVC because it blew while powering a tyre pump. Does anyone know if the fuse box in the engine compartment can be opened and accessed without removing the nearside headlamp? Looks like it may be possible, although I have seen a YouTube video where a very informative guy recommended removing the headlamp to make it easier. I'd rather not remove the headlamp if I can avoid it. Pouring down at themoment so I am trying to plan ahead for tomorrow. Thanks for any comments.

Yes it can be done without removing the headlight and it is tight.
I have replaced my blown fuse doing the same

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

Ah thanks, that's good news. I am surprised the pump blew the fuse because it and its sealant cartridge were supplied instead of a spare wheel. Not much use if it is going to blow another fuse when trying to fix a puncture!

 

[stevec]

I had the same issue and replaced the fuse without taking the headlamp out. A bit fiddly though. I have since learnt to start the pump BEFORE connecting to the tyre valve. That way the current to the pump is gradually increased instead of appearing suddenly. I have done this for the past seven years and not blown a fuse in that time.

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

Ah, a great tip! I think that I happened to have done that 'accidentally' with the nearside tyres but thinking about it I then probably connected to the offside rear before powering on. It was at that point that the show stopped.

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[Pausim]

Ah thanks, that's good news. I am surprised the pump blew the fuse because it and its sealant cartridge were supplied instead of a spare wheel. Not much use if it is going to blow another fuse when trying to fix a puncture!

10A seems to be fairly usual for a cigarette lighter socket. Pumps suitable for motorhome tyre pressures might be pushing that limit. If Fiat supplied the pump then it does seem a bit daft but perhaps Hymer supplied the pump and should have taken more care to provide a suitable supply for it.

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

Yep, I suspect this is nothing to do with Fiat as such. We are still with the Agilis Camping tyres that were fitted when we bought it from a Hymer dealer and these are relatively high pressure. So perhaps the pump would be fine with 'normal' van tyres, but the Agilis have made the pump push the limit?

 

[L' Hobo]

Yep, I suspect this is nothing to do with Fiat as such. We are still with the Agilis Camping tyres that were fitted when we bought it from a Hymer dealer and these are relatively high pressure. So perhaps the pump would be fine with 'normal' van tyres, but the Agilis have made the pump push the limit?

I have a Murvi Morello 3.5ton PVC and run my Agilis Camper tyres at 55psi all-round without excess wear etc, how high is yours?

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

I have varied the pressure a fair bit down to 65 psi having read a number of posts here and elsewhere about these tyres. I haven't noticed any great differences in performance at different pressures, but when I had the fuse blow yesterday I was putting them back up to what I understand to be Michelins' recommended 79 psi. I wish that I knew more about tyre pressures because the more I read online the more options there seem to be.

 

[TheMachMan]

I have varied the pressure a fair bit down to 65 psi having read a number of posts here and elsewhere about these tyres. I haven't noticed any great differences in performance at different pressures, but when I had the fuse blow yesterday I was putting them back up to what I understand to be Michelins' recommended 79 psi. I wish that I knew more about tyre pressures because the more I read online the more options there seem to be.

Agree, 79psi is 5.5bar, which is much higher than in our Carthago manual. I checked mine the other day for the first time and they way at least 5bar. Seems to ride ok. I don’t understand those who say they are noisy, being a diesel van I don’t think I can hear any tyre sound!

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[Pausim]

This is the Carthago pressures for my tyres and they are a lot less than Michelin’s blanket 5.5 bar. I go a bit higher than the chart pressures but much less than 5.5 bar and get a good ride and no problems with the handling.

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

Please forgive my ignorance, but what are the four-digit numbers? Bar pressure is the next column?

 

[Pausim]

Those are the axle weights. Possibly 1850kg for the front and 2000kg for the rear. Look at your weight plate to get the correct weights for your motorhome.

 

[gus-lopez]

Please forgive my ignorance, but what are the four-digit numbers? Bar pressure is the next column?

maximum axle weights,I would guess?

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

Thanks to both.

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[IRHP]

If I remember correctly the Fiat supplied pump is 150watts which takes it over 10 amps draw. I think it might be a 15 amp fuse. Starting the engine before switching it on will reduce the chance of blowing a fuse. Upping the voltage reduces the current draw.

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

If I remember correctly the Fiat supplied pump is 150watts which takes it over 10 amps draw. I think it might be a 15 amp fuse. Starting the engine before switching it on will reduce the chance of blowing a fuse. Upping the voltage reduces the current draw.

Yep, I had the engine running at all times when using the pump. Can't find anything on the pump to say how many Watts it takes but yep I am pretty sure the fuse is 15 Amp.

 

[Pausim]

This time a picture from the Ducato manual which I downloaded from the internet in January 2019. It shows the cigar lighter as 10A and the power socket (?) as 15A. Not sure where the power socket is.

 

[Burgo]

oes anyone know if the fuse box in the engine compartment can be opened and accessed without removing the nearside headlamp?

Off the top of my head the lid of the port side fuse box has three screws securing it; two easily accesible and one not so easy. I needed to get into it to check the a/c solenoid fuse. It is doable but I needed a "dumpy" style screw driver. I've left that one out now.

 

[afraidOfDrivingBig]

Upping the voltage reduces the current draw.

That depends on the appliance really. E.g. for a smart charger like laptop's yes. A dumb heater on the other hand is basically just a resistor, so will draw even more current at higher voltage, not less, and the power will be proportional to the square of the voltage. I think a compressor (if it is like mine, just a motor with no control electronics) will behave similarly to a heater in this aspect.

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[Sixty-nine Chevy]

This time a picture from the Ducato manual which I downloaded from the internet in January 2019. It shows the cigar lighter as 10A and the power socket (?) as 15A. Not sure where the power socket is.
View attachment 688254

Thanks. Just checked my manual and both are 15 Amps. The power socket is a USB just next to the cigar lighter, which is the one I was using.

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

Off the top of my head the lid of the port side fuse box has three screws securing it; two easily accesible and one not so easy. I needed to get into it to check the a/c solenoid fuse. It is doable but I needed a "dumpy" style screw driver. I've left that one out now.

Thanks. Yep, I can see three screws and the back one looks a bit awkward. Will find out tomorrow.

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

For anyone interested, I did it pretty easily in the end. To access the third of the three retaining screw things I had to disconnect the cabling into the back of the headlamp but left the headlamp itself in place. Only hiccup was to discover that the fuse that needed replacing is a mini one and of course I only have a life time's supply of standard sized fuses. Quick trip to Halfords sorted it. Thanks for all the helpful comments.

 

[funsterSwede]

Hi all. I have to replace the dashboard 12V supply fuse in our 2019 Ducato PVC because it blew while powering a tyre pump. Does anyone know if the fuse box in the engine compartment can be opened and accessed without removing the nearside headlamp? Looks like it may be possible, although I have seen a YouTube video where a very informative guy recommended removing the headlamp to make it easier. I'd rather not remove the headlamp if I can avoid it. Pouring down at the moment so I am trying to plan ahead for tomorrow. Thanks for any comments.

Just done the same, blew fuse after filling all 4 tyres - well 3 1/2 before it died. Attempted getting into the fuse box, managed to remove the lid, after which I couldn't even see the fuse (F15 if memory serves me correctly), let alone remove it.

Watched some video on youtube, possibly the same one you did, where the recommendation was to remove the headlamp - which I did and to my surprise it was quite simple even for a computer geek like myself, obviously meant to be easy - only tools needed was torx T30 and the rest was just held in place by plastic clips. So unless your vehicle is different (ours is a Ducato 8, not sure they changed engine compartment between models), I'd recommend anyone attempting a fuse replacement to the same!

 

[L' Hobo]

Just done the same, blew fuse after filling all 4 tyres - well 3 1/2 before it died. Attempted getting into the fuse box, managed to remove the lid, after which I couldn't even see the fuse (F15 if memory serves me correctly), let alone remove it.

Watched some video on youtube, possibly the same one you did, where the recommendation was to remove the headlamp - which I did and to my surprise it was quite simple even for a computer geek like myself, obviously meant to be easy - only tools needed was torx T30 and the rest was just held in place by plastic clips. So unless your vehicle is different (ours is a Ducato 8, not sure they changed engine compartment between models), I'd recommend anyone attempting a fuse replacement to the same!

Might it be easier to put a lower fuse in the compressor?

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[Sixty-nine Chevy]

Just done the same, blew fuse after filling all 4 tyres - well 3 1/2 before it died. Attempted getting into the fuse box, managed to remove the lid, after which I couldn't even see the fuse (F15 if memory serves me correctly), let alone remove it.

Watched some video on youtube, possibly the same one you did, where the recommendation was to remove the headlamp - which I did and to my surprise it was quite simple even for a computer geek like myself, obviously meant to be easy - only tools needed was torx T30 and the rest was just held in place by plastic clips. So unless your vehicle is different (ours is a Ducato 8, not sure they changed engine compartment between models), I'd recommend anyone attempting a fuse replacement to the same!

I didn't have a T30 so borrowed one which was still in its wrapper as it were, so didn't want to use unless really necessary. Did the headlamp really come out and then go back in without lots of jiggling? If so, I'll get a T30 and go that route next time it happens!

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

Might it be easier to put a lower fuse in the compressor?

Never thought of that. Will explore that option. Thanks.

 

[funsterSwede]

I didn't have a T30 so borrowed one which was still in its wrapper as it were, so didn't want to use unless really necessary. Did the headlamp really come out and then go back in without lots of jiggling? If so, I'll get a T30 and go that route next time it happens!

Sure did, all I did was to remove the two screws, unclamp and disconnect the lead that goes into the back of the unit and then push it gently inwards, if that makes sense. Putting it back was equally simple, just reverse order..

Needless to say I felt like a pro when all the lights worked when turning ignition on afterwards

 

[pj650]

Sure did, all I did was to remove the two screws, unclamp and disconnect the lead that goes into the back of the unit and then push it gently inwards, if that makes sense. Putting it back was equally simple, just reverse order..

Needless to say I felt like a pro when all the lights worked when turning ignition on afterwards

Agreed, it is really that simple although I was a bit dubious at first.

 

[Sixty-nine Chevy]

Thanks again. Very encouraging.