A little bit of advice on fitting a USB socket please.

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I want to put it next to the electric mirror heater switch, which is next to the adjustment toggle. I have a couple of questions, size of wire I should use and can I run it off the back of the mirror heater switch? Also what wires do I come off of, there are three out the back of the switch (I have marked up 1, 2, 3 for ease of reference). I assume it should have inline fuse.

Thanks.

usb 1.jpg
usb2.jpg
 
You will still need to find an earth if you use that switch.
Best option is use a multimeter to find the permanent live at the switch.... There should also be an earth at the switch for the warning light.
The switch will also be ignition controlled so dead with ign off.

A 5amp inline fuse should be OK.

Wire suitable for 5 amp should be used.
 
beware the cheap chinese USB sockets flooding the market. I know of several that have overheated to the point of catching fire

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Far better to wire it back to your distribution unit so it is fed from the leisure battery & fit a switch in line.
 
beware the cheap chinese USB sockets flooding the market. I know of several that have overheated to the point of catching fire
I've had a couple fail but not overheat, I always fit a switch in line and turn them off when not in use.
I don't buy the cheapest but you never know what you are getting, even the very expensive ones could have the same guts in them.
 
Like @Lenny HB, I think it's better to wire back to a fuse on your distribution unit, because the mirror heater will only be on when the engine is running.

I've fitted a couple of these inbuilt USB sockets in my MH, but nowadays I find I'd rather use the type that plug into a cigarette-lighter socket. That's because there are at least three generations of USB, and the built-in sockets I've seen always seem to be out of date, low-power types. If you want them to charge a modern smartphone they take a long time. Mine won't even keep up with the smartphone used as a satnav, so it gradually discharges, and always seems to run out just as we're looking for the site at the end of a long drive. If it's a 12v socket type, you can just ditch it and upgrade.

A USB socket will be OK with a 5A fuse, but for a 12v socket better use a 10 amp fuse and appropriate wiring. As @pappajohn says, you will also need to install an earth (negative) wire.
 
Far better to wire it back to your distribution unit so it is fed from the leisure battery & fit a switch in line.
yes probably ...how do I go about that? Get someone who knows a bit more about auto electrics than I do I suppose.

Edit: Mind you the leisure batteries are under driver seat so not that far and yes can switch it and have it on when I like.
 
yes probably ...how do I go about that? Get someone who knows a bit more about auto electrics than I do I suppose.
The Elektroblock should have some spare output you can wire to, you can get the oins on eBay or join into the existing feed to 12v sockets in the van using Waco connectors.
 
I’ve come off the leisure batteries under the seat with 5amp fuse and an illuminated switch, and installed in the rear seat base.

John.
 
OK, so a rethink. The drivers side storage box thing has a light in the lid. That has a 12v existing feed. I could come of that? And I can put the socket in side of the storage box ..better place actually.
 
The left hand side of the plug appears to have separated and the orange wire and furrel is bulging out of the plug casing.

That's not my take on it. Those rubber gaskets are off a different kind of waterproof connector.

I was was thinking those 5 notches were retainers and should have been hidden from view.
 
That's not my take on it. Those rubber gaskets are off a different kind of waterproof connector.

I was was thinking those 5 notches were retainers and should have been hidden from view.
No idea why the rubber gaskets are there but it is a factory plug.
The plug retainer is on the left . The upright lever with the serrated grip on the end.... Press to release... The other end is just a grip to aid pulling the plug out. .
 

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