3 Way Fridges (1 Viewer)

[maison]

Surely all fridges and freezers have an ambient "best operating temperature ".

Our domestic freezer states that if installed in an unheated room, e.g. garage or shed, then it may not reduce the temperature inside the freezer to normal operating levels.

Freezers and fridges are little different to air conditioning units. They are heat exchangers.

Therefore, if you allow the temperature around the fridge/freezer in the motorhome to fall outside stated perameters it will not operate efficiently.

 

[Triple7]

Surely all fridges and freezers have an ambient "best operating temperature ".

Our domestic freezer states that if installed in an unheated room, e.g. garage or shed, then it may not reduce the temperature inside the freezer to normal operating levels.

Freezers and fridges are little different to air conditioning units. They are heat exchangers.

Therefore, if you allow the temperature around the fridge/freezer in the motorhome to fall outside stated perameters it will not operate efficiently.

I read that too and made me think. Obviously cold isn't an issue because the camper has to be maintained at a habitable temperature. But I think heat might be a problem particularly if I not around to manage it. Time will tell!

 

[EX51SSS]

The reason for asking is I'm looking to buy a Hymer and wondering if I should swap out the fridge. I'm running an all electric system on my off road camper which is working very well but that's an entirely different setup with a different application.
My concern is that in the long run issues will emerge that I have not considered. Have I overlooked something. Everything that has been said so far, I either have considered or is inaccurate in my view. Sorry for coming across as being dogmatic

Well I have the Hymer Exsis and it's a 2005 model and so it's 12 years old and the fridge is the original fitted one. I do have it serviced and a friend with a similar one had a burner replaced but otherwise, that's 2 3 way fridges that have no real issues. My domestic ones haven't lasted that long.
Instead of creating a self fulling prophecy, why not get the fridge serviced (assuming it's not new) which would be probably the cheapest option all round and see how it goes. If you want to run it purely on electric and 12V, then that's your choice but I find mine most efficient on gas.

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[EX51SSS]

Therefore, if you allow the temperature around the fridge/freezer in the motorhome to fall outside stated perameters it will not operate efficiently

Would that also apply to raised temperatures too?

 

[Minxy]

Would that also apply to raised temperatures too?

Yes it would work both ways as per the comments from Swift about the Waeco model the same would apply to domestic fridges too, they all have an optimum operating range but some are better than others.

 

[maison]

I read that too and made me think. Obviously cold isn't an issue because the camper has to be maintained at a habitable temperature. But I think heat might be a problem particularly if I not around to manage it. Time will tell!

Manufacturers supply fridge outlet covers to use on motorhomes/caravans when ambient temperatures are low. These raise the temperature immeadiately around the fridge heat exchanger in order to improve efficiency. So low ambient temperatures are recognised as a problem.

Equally, very high ambient temperatures can inhibit fridges from working efficiently. You will see some motorhomes/caravanners removing the louvred covers from their fridges in order to aid air flow, or fitting fans to improve air flow over the heat exchanger unit.

In high ambient temperatures our fridge works more efficiently on gas than on electric, although I don't fully understand the physics involved.

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[Huwmari]

We find our three-way fridge perfectly adequate. It runs on the car battery in transit and on gas when we stop (Gas-it refillable system is superb and makes using gas so cheap). We never have EHU as we don't need it.

 

[JockandRita]

Well I have the Hymer Exsis and it's a 2005 model and so it's 12 years old and the fridge is the original fitted one. I do have it serviced and a friend with a similar one had a burner replaced but otherwise, that's 2 3 way fridges that have no real issues.

Call it three, as ours is 18 years old, and with routine replacement of the burner, igniter, and gas jet, we've not experienced any failures during our 12 years of ownership.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Triple7]

Manufacturers supply fridge outlet covers to use on motorhomes/caravans when ambient temperatures are low. These raise the temperature immeadiately around the fridge heat exchanger in order to improve efficiency. So low ambient temperatures are recognised as a problem.

Equally, very high ambient temperatures can inhibit fridges from working efficiently. You will see some motorhomes/caravanners removing the louvred covers from their fridges in order to aid air flow, or fitting fans to improve air flow over the heat exchanger unit.

In high ambient temperatures our fridge works more efficiently on gas than on electric, although I don't fully understand the physics involved.

I definitely think under some circumstances a domestic fridge is worth considering. With a decent size battery bank and a couple of solar panels I think it would not be a problem.

The advantages are you get more for your money. For example, I have a proper freezer as well. Zero running costs as electric is free provided you don't have to hook up solely because of the fridge. Also the expense and inconvenience of having to service a domestic appliance isn't ideal. And most people will be aware from reading regular posts that 3 way fridges are probably the most problematic item onboard.

On the negative side, I'm not sure how a domestic fridge will perform in very high temperatures. My fridge doesn't seem to have venting on the back. Also I'm not sure how it will cope with vibration and shaking about over time.

I'm not so concerned with the actual expense of replacing a fridge (I got an almost new one for £40 on eBay) but I would be reluctant to make the necessary changes in a motorhome to install one, only to find after a while it becomes equally problematic.

I do think that once lithium batteries come down in price and/or battery technology improves further electricity will become the primary power source on motorhomes. I think many of the advantages that gas has had are being gradually eroded by improvements in technology and efficiency of electrical components and equipment.

With my off road camper, once I decided to invest in a decent battery system I saw all sorts of additional benefits from going electric. But kitting out a camper from scratch allows for that whereas modifying an existing well built motorhome is more of a challenge. I will probably leave well enough alone for a year or so and see how the fridge works on the off road camper before making any motorhome alterations.

Thanks to all for their feedback.

Ps - administration: would it be possible to move this thread to your fridge section? I really should have posted there. Many thanks.

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[JockandRita]

Ps - administration: would it be possible to move this thread to your fridge section? I really should have posted there. Many thanks.

@Jim please.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[meanders]

A few points to mention:

1. Domestic compressor based fridges are designed down to a price and also for the target market in climate terms. This means the compressor mountings are not designed for constant movement, and will ultimately begin to fail increasing noise level significantly, b) are designed to be static. That's why manufacturers state that they should stand for a number of hours after being moved and before use to prevent the compressor lubrication being pushed into the condenser unit (effectively wrecking it), and c) will not work well in hot or cold countries if marketed in the UK. I found this out many years ago when I sold a batch of fridges to Africa!
   
2. The compressor start up (in-rush) current to the motor is relatively huge. Going back a few years, I was always told to allow at least a factor of ten over the running current. That's why all domestic fridges have 13amp fuses in the UK. It's very short lived, but might kill an inverter. You have to remember this in-rush current occurs every time the compressor starts. If a fridge freezer has dual compressors as many do, you need to double this if starting both compressors simultaneously. An absorption fridge does not suffer this in-rush.
   
3. We are happy with our standard fit Dometic 3 way, but getting it to light on gas can sometimes be a pain.

 

[SpeedyDux]

There are pros and cons for both types of MoHo fridge.

The compressor fridge in mine can be used as a freezer. I have used it to store frozen food and ice cream. Just dial down the temperature setting. The only time it struggled to keep the contents cold (beer, mainly) was when the outside temp was about 35c, and that side of the van was in the blazing sun. I suppose I should have turned the van 180 degrees or better still moved to a shady pitch.

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[ukbill]

My fridge i think is knackered,I have 3x110amp solars,3x110amp,batteries,and a 2000 puresim inverter,im also normally off grid wild camping,will i b ok with a normal 240v fridge freezer

 

[EX51SSS]

@Jim please.

Cheers,

Jock.

I'm unsure whether the OP is trying to convince Funsters about fitting a domestic fridge in a Moho or himself. I think the latter actually.

 

[ukbill]

Maybe all get back on topic,and help instead of,I GOT THIS AND I GOT THAT

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[DL42846]

I'm well pleased with the Dometic AES we have in our van. You just set it to auto and forget about it. It automatically runs off the batteries when on the road, switches to gas when the engine is turned off and switches to electric when on a hook up. Nice and cool even on the hottest of days. Can make ice cubes, or store ice creams etc.

 

[Triple7]

A few points to mention:

1. Domestic compressor based fridges are designed down to a price and also for the target market in climate terms. This means the compressor mountings are not designed for constant movement, and will ultimately begin to fail increasing noise level significantly, b) are designed to be static. That's why manufacturers state that they should stand for a number of hours after being moved and before use to prevent the compressor lubrication being pushed into the condenser unit (effectively wrecking it), and c) will not work well in hot or cold countries if marketed in the UK. I found this out many years ago when I sold a batch of fridges to Africa!
   
2. The compressor start up (in-rush) current to the motor is relatively huge. Going back a few years, I was always told to allow at least a factor of ten over the running current. That's why all domestic fridges have 13amp fuses in the UK. It's very short lived, but might kill an inverter. You have to remember this in-rush current occurs every time the compressor starts. If a fridge freezer has dual compressors as many do, you need to double this if starting both compressors simultaneously. An absorption fridge does not suffer this in-rush.
   
3. We are happy with our standard fit Dometic 3 way, but getting it to light on gas can sometimes be a pain.

Many thanks for the info.

You are right about the initial rush which lasts for about 30 secs. My fridge draws initially 40amp before dropping to 4 and then to 1 when it's around the correct temp. That rush seems to only happen when you turn it on, not every time the compressor kicks in. But that is still well within the range of a decent invertor. Anything over a 1000w and you will be well covered (in case other appliances are running too).

Your point about the mounts is what does concern me so that will be interesting. If it's still running in a year I will be happy with that result. Having a proper freezer on long trips is a big plus for me.

 

[Triple7]

I'm well pleased with the Dometic AES we have in our van. You just set it to auto and forget about it. It automatically runs off the batteries when on the road, switches to gas when the engine is turned off and switches to electric when on a hook up. Nice and cool even on the hottest of days. Can make ice cubes, or store ice creams etc.

You have reminded me of another reason I switched. This may only apply to older fridges but mine (and many others) hardly get any cooling when it's running on 12v. No one has mentioned this so maybe it just applies to fridges of the 90s and earlier.

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[two]

AES is designed for our requirements and works OK but I do question why all these things should cost as much as they do, compared to domestic.

 

[Triple7]

My fridge i think is knackered,I have 3x110amp solars,3x110amp,batteries,and a 2000 puresim inverter,im also normally off grid wild camping,will i b ok with a normal 240v fridge freezer

My fridge i think is knackered,I have 3x110amp solars,3x110amp,batteries,and a 2000 puresim inverter,im also normally off grid wild camping,will i b ok with a normal 240v fridge freezer

I would say you have the system to cope (I'm guessing you mean 3x100w panels) but it also depends on how you use your van. If it's UK only solar may not be enough but otherwise I would say yes. It would help if your batteries were gel.

 

[EX51SSS]

TBF, from my position, I would rather spend on a replacement 3 way fridge because I'd need solar power, possibly an inverter and I couldn't justify solar power. Used this particular Moho for 10 years. Regular service and habitation. Fridge serviced. Gaslow fitted, new leisure battery (yep just the 1) possibly a new engine battery next year. We've never had a problem with power and we did Lincoln last year for 4 days, no EHU. In fact, at Newark we got a quite and it was around the £700 mark and thought, well that'll do our 4/6 week holiday this year (next year as it was then.
Actually, now I remember, I did have a fan fitted for the fridge 2 years ago as it appeared the fridge was struggling to keep down to temperature but so was everyone that year where we were and the fan certainly helped. I appreciate they are expensive but ours is still going strong at 12 years old

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[funflair]

You have reminded me of another reason I switched. This may only apply to older fridges but mine (and many others) hardly get any cooling when it's running on 12v. No one has mentioned this so maybe it just applies to fridges of the 90s and earlier.

Possibly just older ones as our 2005 AES cools to -18 in the freezer on 12 volts.

Martin

 

[two]

You used to be able to get domestic gas fridges. I don't think they were much different in price from electric (compressor) ones but they ran silently and 'forever'. MIL had one (which is why I'm uncertain about price but assume it wasn't dear) and it refused to die (much like its owner).

 

[Minxy]

You used to be able to get domestic gas fridges. I don't think they were much different in price from electric (compressor) ones but they ran silently and 'forever'. MIL had one (which is why I'm uncertain about price but assume it wasn't dear) and it refused to die (much like its owner).

We used to have a gas fridge at home when I was a kid (60s) and it was only when my mum wanted a bigger freezer that she got shot of it.

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[EX51SSS]

We used to have a gas fridge at home when I was a kid (60s) and it was only when my mum wanted a bigger freezer that she got shot of it.

Yes, same here.