So been away three weeks. So far had new water pump, leisure battery. Now fridge is playing. Run while travelling on 12v.!!! Not working but should I have the light switch onto make it wrk?
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- Thread starter Sue coulson
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- Jun 29, 2015
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That's bad luck, which fridge do you have?
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- Jun 29, 2015
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Which model? Also is it a Euro6 van? some Euro6 vehicles have "smart" alternators which stop charging when the battery is full, this can also shut off the supply to the fridge. Not that smart then
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- Dec 24, 2014
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I'm not exactly clear about what you're saying.Is it running or is it not running at 12v when travelling?
Does it work on EHU (240v) and gas?
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Check other 12v appliances are working to see if there is a problem elsewhere, your lovely new water pump is a candidate to try
If other 12v outlets are ok (working) then you do have a problem at the fridge
My dometic fridge has an ‘Automatic’ setting and on this yours should search for another fuel supply - probably gas. This will keep everything cold/frozen until someone can sort the 12v supply out
If other 12v outlets are ok (working) then you do have a problem at the fridge
My dometic fridge has an ‘Automatic’ setting and on this yours should search for another fuel supply - probably gas. This will keep everything cold/frozen until someone can sort the 12v supply out
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- Feb 24, 2013
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You might be ambitious thinking 12V will get it cold
at best it will almost maintain temp nothing more in my experience
at best it will almost maintain temp nothing more in my experience
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OP
OP
So all 12v is wrking. Model is rm 76oil. Could itbe a fuse??
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If there is a fuse in no4 (says Not used) check if it is ok , Dont know if you are aware but the fridge will only work on 12volts when the engine is running, can you confirm that this is when it is not working and is it working ok on gas and 230v hook up ?
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It seems you have a 12V distribution/fusebox called an Electroblock. What model number is it?
The fuse for the fridge 12V element is usually near the starter battery. There's usually two fuses, a 50A and a 20A, next to each other, very near the starter battery. It's the 20A one that's the fridge element supply. For some Electroblock models there's a small 2A fuse there as well.
If you have an Electroblock, the fridge (on auto) will automatically switch to 12V when the engine is running, no need to set any switches.
The fuse for the fridge 12V element is usually near the starter battery. There's usually two fuses, a 50A and a 20A, next to each other, very near the starter battery. It's the 20A one that's the fridge element supply. For some Electroblock models there's a small 2A fuse there as well.
If you have an Electroblock, the fridge (on auto) will automatically switch to 12V when the engine is running, no need to set any switches.
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OP
OP
Oh wow thank you. When you say model do you mean make of fridge rm 76. Will check fuses in a min.
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OP
OP
Are you saying that I don't need to switch 12v on panel when travelling. What abt if I set the fridge to gas?
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- Feb 14, 2021
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Me neither. It IS supposed to run on 12V when travelling. Are you concerned its not?
Is it running or is it not running at 12v when travelling?
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No I mean the 12V distribution/fusebox. It's a Schaudt Electroblock, for example EBL101, like this:
Sometimes they are in a very visible place, in a locker or in a wardrobe perhaps. Sometimes they are hidden away, under a false floor in a cupboard or under the passenger seat. It contains the mains charger, several fuses, and all the 12V connections, switches and relays.
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treetops1
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- Feb 25, 2013
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When you stop it should be on hook up, or on gas.
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You need to know how the fridge works, and how the power gets to it.
It's not like a house fridge, that has a compressor with a pump motor. There's a set of coolant pipes behind the fridge. Applying a small amount of heat (100 to 200W) in the lower corner causes the coolant to circulate, and magically produces cooling. That bit is working fine, because it's working on hookup power.
The heat can come from mains 240V, battery 12V or a small gas flame. There is a control board that controls the switching of the power sources, and also takes care of the gas ignition if required. That bit is also working fine.
The 12V power for the control board comes from the leisure battery, and is OK. The power for the 12V heater element is entirely separate. It comes from the alternator/starter battery, into the EBL, through a switching relay, out to the fridge. The control board selects 12V power automatically if the engine is running.
So there are a number of possibilities if the 12V power is not working. Start with the 20A fuse near the starter battery that I mentioned in post#13. If that's OK, you need to remove the exterior lower vent grille, to get access to the lower back of the fridge.
Basically what you do is check if the power is reaching the heater element terminals. If it is, you need a new heater element. If it isn't, then you need to find out why.
Maybe at this stage you might want to hand it over to a motorhome technician, to replace the heater element or trace the wiring fault. But at least you will know what the problem is. It's not a difficult job, but a bit daunting if you've never done things like that before.
It's not like a house fridge, that has a compressor with a pump motor. There's a set of coolant pipes behind the fridge. Applying a small amount of heat (100 to 200W) in the lower corner causes the coolant to circulate, and magically produces cooling. That bit is working fine, because it's working on hookup power.
The heat can come from mains 240V, battery 12V or a small gas flame. There is a control board that controls the switching of the power sources, and also takes care of the gas ignition if required. That bit is also working fine.
The 12V power for the control board comes from the leisure battery, and is OK. The power for the 12V heater element is entirely separate. It comes from the alternator/starter battery, into the EBL, through a switching relay, out to the fridge. The control board selects 12V power automatically if the engine is running.
So there are a number of possibilities if the 12V power is not working. Start with the 20A fuse near the starter battery that I mentioned in post#13. If that's OK, you need to remove the exterior lower vent grille, to get access to the lower back of the fridge.
Basically what you do is check if the power is reaching the heater element terminals. If it is, you need a new heater element. If it isn't, then you need to find out why.
Maybe at this stage you might want to hand it over to a motorhome technician, to replace the heater element or trace the wiring fault. But at least you will know what the problem is. It's not a difficult job, but a bit daunting if you've never done things like that before.
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OP
OP
Okay thank you when it stops raining will swop fuse if that doesn't wrk engineer it is thank you very much for all comments
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- Aug 7, 2020
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Hi I had similar problems with same fridge that had not been used very much. Turned out it was the control panel on the fridge. Quick job to get it replaced but it cost £90. Engineer thought it was related to 12v system rather than gas or EHU. Working fine for the last year. Hope you get sorted.
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Scattycat
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I had a similar problem, it turned out to be the gas burner.
Just checking, but if your fridge has covers on the outside vents they need to be taken off in the summer. Also I presume you have the dial on the fridge settings turned to "Auto"
Just checking, but if your fridge has covers on the outside vents they need to be taken off in the summer. Also I presume you have the dial on the fridge settings turned to "Auto"
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OP
OP
No vent covers or auto switch but I believe mine automatically switchs to 12v when engine running. Warden took pity on me he's coming tom to check fuses. If not that then engineer to nxt site!!
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If you have a RM7601L model fridge it is manual setting only and you need to select 12v setting on the selection dial (230v/gas/12v) for it to work , a green light on the dial by the12v setting should light up, if it is working, but only with the engine running.
If the fridge is a RM7605L it is automatic and should have an extra setting on the dial marked Auto which you can select to enable the fridge to go to 12v automatically when you start the engine , when the green light should come on by 12v on the dial .
If the fridge is a RM7605L it is automatic and should have an extra setting on the dial marked Auto which you can select to enable the fridge to go to 12v automatically when you start the engine , when the green light should come on by 12v on the dial .
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