3 way fridge not working on 12v (1 Viewer)

[autorouter]

Be aware that on most/many modern fridges.

They only work on 12v off the battery when the engine is running.

Since we are talking about EBLs, and the EBL119 in particular, then although this is true in Auto mode, it's not necessarily true in Manual mode.

As I said in post#49, there are two fridge relays in the EBL. If the second one is wired in, and the 20A 'Kuhlschrank' fuse is fitted, then in Manual 12V mode it runs from the starter battery when the engine is running, as before. However when the engine is not running, it switches over to the leisure battery via the Kuhlschrank fuse. Obviously it's easy to forget and end up with a flat leisure battery. But it can be useful in places where you can't use gas, such as on a ferry or in the Tunnel.

 

[autorouter]

It's very odd. It's a new van (March) so nothing should need cleaning/servicing. The flame is really strong and the pipe/fins at the top hare getting hot (assume because they are extracting warm air?) so in theory it should be working??? I am not a expert on absorption fridges but from what I understand this is all that needs to happen to make it work.

The gas doesn't ever switch off - I assume if it was working properly the gas would switch off when the fridge dips to the correct temperature?

I think I've run out of ideas on this one. Maybe the 12V or 240V element is staying on, so there is too much heat applied to the cooling circuit, which will stop it cooling.

 

[Lenny HB]

The gas doesn't ever switch off - I assume if it was working properly the gas would switch off when the fridge dips to the correct temperature?

The gas should be turning off an on regularly. Our last van when new it didn't cool very well on gas and the burner made a very loud roaring noise. After a new burner was fitted cooled better and was quieter. The burner is only a bit of bent steel and is located by metal tabs, I tweaked the position of it and it then worked even better.

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[VXman]

Most German Vans the fridge will run of the hab battery when battery is selected on the fridge. Every van we have had does that.

Our German (Burstner) van doesn't. It goes into error mode if you try to select battery manually when the engines not on. Admittedly the manual states it will not select battery unless the engine is running when in auto mode - which implies it might be different in manual mode but in practice it doesn't.

 

[VXman]

I think I've run out of ideas on this one. Maybe the 12V or 240V element is staying on, so there is too much heat applied to the cooling circuit, which will stop it cooling.

Couldn't be the 240 as I unplugged the EHU to try it on gas. 12V - maybe not sure. Although if that were the case the battery would soon go flat! Anyway thanks for thoughts. Booked into the dealer for 12 August now. Although I might give Thetford a call and see it they ill do anything sooner.

 

[Brains]

Most German Vans the fridge will run of the hab battery when battery is selected on the fridge. Every van we have had does that.

Mine is also a Hymer (2018)
I'll have to read the small print and see if that is an option.
If so, how many hours would it take to run the hab battery flat ?

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[GeoffnDee]

It's very odd. It's a new van (March) so nothing should need cleaning/servicing. The flame is really strong and the pipe/fins at the top hare getting hot (assume because they are extracting warm air?) so in theory it should be working??? I am not a expert on absorption fridges but from what I understand this is all that needs to happen to make it work.

The gas doesn't ever switch off - I assume if it was working properly the gas would switch off when the fridge dips to the correct temperature?

The trouble shooting guide for Thetford says, among other possible causes, that if there is inadequate performance on gas (no fault code shown) to check if the burner is aligned properly in front of the pipe , perhaps this is the problem ?

 

[Dave Scadding]

You also need to be reasonably level??

 

[autorouter]

Mine is also a Hymer (2018)
I'll have to read the small print and see if that is an option.
If so, how many hours would it take to run the hab battery flat ?

Mine takes about 14A when the element is on, which is only a percentage of the time because of the thermostat switching. I'd work on 10A average, so for a full 100Ah battery down to 20% that's about 8 hours. It's OK for the Tunnel and a short crossing, but doesn't manage the Santander crossing. I tried it once with about 400Ah of assorted batteries of various ages/types, and it just about managed.

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[The Rum Runners]

Having just had fridge problems yesterday (20amp fuse blown on the circuit board) I have been reading various threads on the subject. These are just my thoughts and hopefully VXman has now sorted his problem. If the fridge is cooling ok on 12v and 240v then it should cool ok on gas providing the burner is running and in the correct position, same heat different source.
I have found that the fridge runs better on the first setting, one bar or whatever. If you turn the setting to high the fridge doesn’t get any colder, in fact sometimes gets warmer, and the gas burner runs continuously.
Never found that the fridge has to be exactly level to run ok. We’re lazy and don’t level the van unless it is outrageous.

 

[stuartholmes]

Having just had fridge problems yesterday (20amp fuse blown on the circuit board) I have been reading various threads on the subject. These are just my thoughts and hopefully VXman has now sorted his problem. If the fridge is cooling ok on 12v and 240v then it should cool ok on gas providing the burner is running and in the correct position, same heat different source.
I have found that the fridge runs better on the first setting, one bar or whatever. If you turn the setting to high the fridge doesn’t get any colder, in fact sometimes gets warmer, and the gas burner runs continuously.
Never found that the fridge has to be exactly level to run ok. We’re lazy and don’t level the van unless it is outrageous.

We're lazy too and I always level the 'van because I want a good night's sleep!!!

 

[VXman]

Having just had fridge problems yesterday (20amp fuse blown on the circuit board) I have been reading various threads on the subject. These are just my thoughts and hopefully VXman has now sorted his problem. If the fridge is cooling ok on 12v and 240v then it should cool ok on gas providing the burner is running and in the correct position, same heat different source.
I have found that the fridge runs better on the first setting, one bar or whatever. If you turn the setting to high the fridge doesn’t get any colder, in fact sometimes gets warmer, and the gas burner runs continuously.
Never found that the fridge has to be exactly level to run ok. We’re lazy and don’t level the van unless it is outrageous.

Came across this old thread when researching for further (different ) fridge problems.

Anyway - just to say the dealer never did discover why it was not working on gas ( but ok on EHU and 12V) and in the end Thetford gave me a new fridge and dealer fitted it. Took far too long though - About a year in all!

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[ianto999]

Feels like a common ending to gas problems with 3 way absorption fridges. They are complex to diagnose/repair, and today’s world, just easier to replace. Also why compressor fridges now used more? Less hassle for dealers and owners?

 

[VXman]

Feels like a common ending to gas problems with 3 way absorption fridges. They are complex to diagnose/repair, and today’s world, just easier to replace. Also why compressor fridges now used more? Less hassle for dealers and owners?

Expensive too. Our replacement cost £1800 plus fitting. Fortunately it was all under warranty.

 

[Nottslad1211]

Fuse in the d+ (engine running) feed to the fridge. Check the fuses in the fuse box again.

I’ve got the same problem with my fridge, it works on gas and EHU, but there a buzzing coming from the fridge when I put it on battery, I’ve heard it cud be a relay or fuse, and someone has sed the fuse is next to the battery in the engine bay. My battery is in the passengers footwell. Any ideas where my fuse will be, I’ve got a fuse board in the rear seats facing the back of the drivers seat, wud it be in that fuse board, TIA

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[namwaldog]

My battery is in the passengers footwell. Any ideas where my fuse will be,

On our 2012 Fiat Ducato based Burstner, (starter battery under passengers feet) the 20 amp fuse that powers the fridge/freezer is mounted on the positive battery terminal. It is the yellow fuse shown in the pic below...

Good Luck

 

[GeoffnDee]

If your Swift Bessacarr is fitted with a Sargent PSU you may find the fuses are on it , they could be , D+= 15a , 12v Fridge high current = 20a and 12v Fridge electronics = 5a . (depending on the make and model of the PSU and the year of your Motorhome)
I am assuming that you are not trying to run the fridge on 12v battery without the engine running , but if you are , an alarm may be sounding with a buzzer.

 

[TheBig1]

If it's buzzing, it has power so it's the relay chattering. Either failed relay or the 12v coil is throwing a short current fault making the control board reset over and over. Take the fridge vent off and see if you can identify the relay. It's on the back under a black cover on some fridges and in the control on the fascia panel on others. Slapping it will help if it's a sticky relay, but will ultimately need replacing. If it doesn't work measure the resistance across the 2 wires feeding the 12v element

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[VXman]

I’ve got the same problem with my fridge, it works on gas and EHU, but there a buzzing coming from the fridge when I put it on battery, I’ve heard it cud be a relay or fuse, and someone has sed the fuse is next to the battery in the engine bay. My battery is in the passengers footwell. Any ideas where my fuse will be, I’ve got a fuse board in the rear seats facing the back of the drivers seat, wud it be in that fuse board, TIA

the fuse is normally next to the engine battery (under the floor) or by the leisure battery - dependent on set up.

 

[VXman]

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