2015 3.0 Ducato 290 Not Cranking

Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Posts
11
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Location
Newtown
Funster No
23,619
MH
N+B Arto 88LE
Exp
2006
Hi All,
I have an intermittent problem, could anybody tell me if there is a Start Relay and it’s location in the Fusebox? If not, is it incorporated in the starter solenoid and low trigger current fed directly from the Ignition Switch? When I attempt to start the engine, the dash lights come on as normal but nothing happens. I am not getting the trigger current down to the Starter Motor and wondering if it’s the Ignition Switch at fault. The immobiliser is not the issue.Thanks for any input.
 
Best to check the earthing straps and if you have jump leads use those to create an earth from the battery negative to the engine and then see if it turns over.
 
Best to check the earthing straps and if you have jump leads use those to create an earth from the battery negative to the engine and then see if it turns over.
Thanks for the answer, I checked that first, all good as the motorhome is stored indoors.
 
Our Burstner wont turn over if the brake pedal is not pressed, last year the brake light switch started to play up and we had the same problem. Get someone to check the brake lights come on when pedal pressed. Long shot but you never know?
 
Have you checked that power is not getting to the solenoid , with the key turned to start position , with a volt meter at the starter motor ?
 
Have you checked that power is not getting to the solenoid , with the key turned to start position , with a volt meter at the starter motor ?
Yeah, no power down to the solenoid with the ignition on. That's why I'm wondering if there's a Starter Relay, or if the trigger current comes directly from the Ignition Switch?🤔
 
Have you checked that power is not getting to the solenoid , with the key turned to start position , with a volt meter at the starter motor ?

Yeah, no power down to the solenoid with the ignition on. That's why I'm wondering if there's a Starter Relay, or if the trigger current comes directly from the Ignition Switch?🤔
Just to add, it starts when I put a jumper wire from the Battery Positive directly to the Solenoid with the ignition on. Leading to my conclusion.
 
JArto I think there will be a multi-plug connecting the ignition switch wiring with the main wiring and maybe that could be worth checked, There is a 30 amp fuse described as for - Ignition switch/Starter motor - in the engine compartment fuse box ( FO3 top maxi fuse ? ) that could also be worth checking.

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no power at the starter motor so next check would be is there power at the back of the ignition switch
 
Could be the immobilisor kicking in, I have had it a couple of times and found locking and unlocking the doors sorted it
 
JArto I think there will be a multi-plug connecting the ignition switch wiring with the main wiring and maybe that could be worth checked, There is a 30 amp fuse described as for - Ignition switch/Starter motor - in the engine compartment fuse box ( FO3 top maxi fuse ? ) that could also be worth checking.
I will take a look later, I have a new ignition switch, so I'll fit it anyway. It appears that it may have missed the recall in 2016 for it to be replaced. It's starting at the moment without problems but as it's intermittent, I don't have much confidence in it!
 
Could be the immobilisor kicking in, I have had it a couple of times and found locking and unlocking the doors sorted it
Tried that, but didn't make a difference. Thanks
 
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no power at the starter motor so next check would be is there power at the back of the ignition switch
Going to look later, as mentioned it is intermittent, going to check later. Thanks

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check from the wires from the ignition switch for power out to the solenoid
 
ignition switches used toi be a problem years ago.Mine used to do it. I just kept a length of wire for when it tried to catch me out in fuel stations. & start it with that.
 
ignition switches used toi be a problem years ago.Mine used to do it. I just kept a length of wire for when it tried to catch me out in fuel stations. & start it with that.
I did read that somewhere, was going to change it out but can't replicate the problem now! Starts every time at the moment!🤔Thanks 👍
 
JArto I think there will be a multi-plug connecting the ignition switch wiring with the main wiring and maybe that could be worth checked, There is a 30 amp fuse described as for - Ignition switch/Starter motor - in the engine compartment fuse box ( FO3 top maxi fuse ? ) that could also be worth checking.
Hi, had a further look today. Fuse 03 is for the Main Supply to the Starter Motor and was good. Checked pin A3(Brown/Grey) on Ignition Switch through a connector down to the Starter Solenoid Relay via a Brown/Black wire. This is the trigger wire. Resistance <1 ohm so all good. There is no other relay in the Ignition Circuit as it's in the Solenoid. Reassembled and started numerous times as normal at the moment. Problem seems to have disappeared for the time being! Just leaving this here for reference. Thanks to you and everyone else for your suggestions.👍
 
I had this exact problem… it was a simple remedy of tightning the battery clamps

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I had this exact problem… it was a simple remedy of tightning the battery clamps
Thanks for your suggestion, I checked the connections on the clamps before my other checks. They were all tight and clean.👍
 
Check the trigger wire spade connector at the solenoid for corrosion.
Pull it off a few times to clean the contact area.
 
The ignition switch on the Iveco would turn all the way, but sometimes wouldn't crank the engine. I flooded the switch with about a quarter of a can of GT85 spray, working the key vigorously between applications. There was a lot of muck that came out in the spray spillage, but the problem has not come back.
 
I have a 3.0 with comformatic gearbox. I started having the same issues when the engine was warm, always worked when cold. I assume that the circuit goes through the immobiliser and a transistor is playing up. I was getting 7 volts at the solenoid with the key held over which isn’t enough for the solenoid so I have wired up a relay using the original solenoid wire as my trigger wire. It still has to go through the immobiliser so that remains the same and as the current draw from the relay is way, way less than the solenoid, it works every time now 🤞



IMG_5663.jpeg
 

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