2006 Delphin T700: Fluorescent Living Area Light

[DaveLud]

Can anyone advise please. My 2006 Burstner Dephin T700 largely performs quite well, but I have a problem with the long 12v fluoresent light in the main part of the living area:

• It usually switches on OK.
• After a variable amount of time it either goes out completely, or mostly, leaving a glow at either end of the tube.
• It shares a switch mounting with the exterior light. If I switch that on at the same time as the flourescent tube, the tube behaves as above. If I switch other 12v lights on, the tube sometimes behaves as above. If I switch other mains fittings on, the tube sometimes behaves as above.
• If I then switch the tube off, and the other fitting off, wait 30 seconds or so, then switch the tube back on, it usually comes on OK, at least for some time.
• Putting in a new tube makes no difference. If it were a domestic fluorecent light, I would change the starter, but on this design, I cannot find one.
• It seems like a voltage regulator problem, but I cannot find a v-r on the wiring diagram.
  ANY IDEAS PLEASE?

 

[Newfie]

Replace it with a led light

 

[PORKSTER]

I have the same light but works ok. Although it appears dimmer these days. I have a spare tube but couldn't figure how to change it with my fat fingers. An led conversion would be good but I doubt one is available.
Sorry can't help with your problem.

 

[Manic]

I would remove the tube and all the control gear and the stick LED strip onto the back of light fitting.

 

[Newfie]

You can get a led replacement, if you have the Osram part number on the tube
Do a google Search for led replacement for Osram xxxxxx
Or put the tube number on here & I’ll do it for you

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[DaveLud]

Thanks for the rapid responses folks...

NEWFIE: Here are the tube details -
8w T2 Osram Coolwhite/740 320mm Fluorescent Tube - 4000 Kelvin - FM8740
I looked for an LED replacement before, but could not find one with the unusual contacts at each end of the tube, so any ideas welcome!

PORKSTER:. With similar fat fingers, I finally worked that out (and it is not as written in the Burstner Manual). The cap on each end of the tube is sprung-loaded, and compressing them both reduces the overall length of the tube (just) enough to get the tube out. I used a small pair of scissors held with the blades slightly apart, like a pair of pliers, so that they located behind a ledge which is just accessible on either end cap. Then gently push the cap towards the centre of the tube, so that the springs in the caps compress. Feels a bit crude, but it works! (See additional photo to follow).

MANIC:. Seems like the next best alternative to a like-for-like LED 'tube', but the fitting is wedged between two robust plywood runners, which would have to be unfixed from the roof. Not impossible but....(see additional photo).

Anyone any experience of this delight?!

 

[jockaneezer]

Mine sometimes doesn't light up when switched on. Tbh we don't use it that much, it draws more current on its own than all the other lights combined after I swapped them for led's. Wouldn't mind an led replacement for it though.

 

[DaveLud]

Just realised the 'additional photo' is the 2nd of the ones I already posted. When as large as you can get it, the 'ledges' either side of the tube (where it separated from the light fitting) are reasonably clear. I also changed the other bulbs for LED versions (except the two over the cooker - but that is another question I can feel coming on), and I wondered whether it is the use of the LEDs that is causing what I might very untechnically describe as a voltage 'wobble', thereby resulting in the tube mis-behaving...

 

[Newfie]

Sorry Davelud Your right no leds showing with a W4.3 cap fitting, I would do as Manic says remove the fittings & use led strip. Plenty of replacement tubes some of the pics show a starter as well so possibly a starter issue if you can find it

 

[mitzimad]

you cant replace a flourecent with an led equivilent you need to remove the workings, ballast and starter. Just keep the switch and wire leds to the supplies

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[PORKSTER]

Without going outside to look I think the workings are just above the roller shutter. So open shutter and look towards back so that could be bypassed easily maybe. then you need to suss out the led bit.

 

[DaveLud]

Thanks Porkster. It feels a bit chicken-and-egg. I suspect you are right, though my shutter is just that, and apart from the roof lining there is nothing obviously undoable behind the heavy ply 'sides' which the shutter runners are routed into on each side. I don't really want to take it to bits until I feel more confident I would be able to re-assemble it successfully, and maybe even have identified the replacement parts I need either to keep it as a fluorescent set-up, or to migrate to LED. I'll wait a couple more days before I start exploring, in case I get any other feedback. Cheers.

 

[PORKSTER]

Its visable without removing anything

 

[pappajohn]

12v flourescents has a very basic inverter built in.
They only work on AC High voltage.
Could be that that's failing.
As said, rip it all out and fit LED.

 

[DaveLud]

Hi PAPA JOHN:

As said, rip it all out and fit LED.

Thanks. Seems to sum up the general sentiment from this thread! 'It all' in this case means the fluorescent tube and the fitting, back to the +ve and -ve wires which come from the switch? No other fancy bits I need to look for?

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[mitzimad]

Hi PAPA JOHN:

Thanks. Seems to sum up the general sentiment from this thread! 'It all' in this case means the fluorescent tube and the fitting, back to the +ve and -ve wires which come from the switch? No other fancy bits I need to look for?

no thats it, back to a switched pair of wires and connect the leds to that i used the self adhesive strips run up and down the length of the fitting you might want some extra adehsive as the sticky back wasnt great on mine remember led's are polarity sensitive only the positive wire will be via the switch

 

[PORKSTER]

Thanks Porkster. It feels a bit chicken-and-egg. I suspect you are right, though my shutter is just that, and apart from the roof lining there is nothing obviously undoable behind the heavy ply 'sides' which the shutter runners are routed into on each side. I don't really want to take it to bits until I feel more confident I would be able to re-assemble it successfully, and maybe even have identified the replacement parts I need either to keep it as a fluorescent set-up, or to migrate to LED. I'll wait a couple more days before I start exploring, in case I get any other feedback. Cheers.

I would think this bit is the workings for fluorescent tube (pic below) you may have seen this already. You may have overcome problem and done the mod ?
Hoping someone has and I can copy them.

Did you convert this light on yours mitzimad or is your van the later model with the skylight at front ?

Also has anyone converted these lights (pics also below) I have put led,s inside but the bathroom especialy is still very dim. Any solutions ideas welcome Ta Paul.