1947 Flxible RV restoration (2 Viewers)

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kex66

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Interior strip out about 90% complete.

The restoration shop has found some serious rust issues around a couple of windows but should get this sorted.

The grey and black tanks are both shot but there is no space to put standard, off the shelf tanks in so they may need to be specially made!!:cry:
 

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SueBaz

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So Impressed !

Interior strip out about 90% complete.

The restoration shop has found some serious rust issues around a couple of windows but should get this sorted.

The grey and black tanks are both shot but there is no space to put standard, off the shelf tanks in so they may need to be specially made!!:cry:

Kex

Just caught up with this (I am a bit slow sometimes) What you're doing is brilliant and wish you a fair wind in getting it completed. Think you'll need to sell tickets though when you bring it to shows !!

Regards

Baz

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davejen

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Hi, I've been watching your progress with this amazing project, and can only say how superb it looks and will be fab when completed. Are the tanks f/glass? if so they should be repairable, even some types of plastic can be repaired too- much cheaper than having new ones made. Just a thought.
Looking forward to more installments!
Cheers, Dave:thumb:
 
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kex66

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Hi, I've been watching your progress with this amazing project, and can only say how superb it looks and will be fab when completed. Are the tanks f/glass? if so they should be repairable, even some types of plastic can be repaired too- much cheaper than having new ones made. Just a thought.
Looking forward to more installments!
Cheers, Dave:thumb:

Hi Dave,

the tanks are too far gone. They are home made and look to have de-laminated in several places. You're right, the restorer could easily patch them up and by the time the tanks rupture again, the bus will be in the UK and I won't be sending anything back to the US for repair. However, the restoration shop I've chosen was found going through every forum in the USA I could think of. These guys kept on coming up with great reviews but they also have a reputation for only doing things 100% correct. Sounds fantastic until you actually have to pay for it:cry:

At this rate my overdraft is going to last as long as this bl**dy bus!!!!!!!::bigsmile:
 

jhorsf

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you have stirred a real interest in your project a lot of people are looking forward to seeing this take shape:thumb: tell SWMBO anyone can have a fancy kitchen or bathroom in the house but it will not have the soul of that old bus:thumb:

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kex66

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you have stirred a real interest in your project a lot of people are looking forward to seeing this take shape:thumb: tell SWMBO anyone can have a fancy kitchen or bathroom in the house but it will not have the soul of that old bus:thumb:

Thanks for the comments, much appreciated. I would have to say that as we stand at the moment, the kitchen or bathroom looks favorite::bigsmile:

FUN members have been really supportive and given some great advice over the last few months so when the Flxible does eventually get shipped to the UK and anyone off here sees us out and about, DON'T BE SHY!!! we will have plenty of tea and coffee in the cupboard (sorry don't drink alcohol but you can bring your own::bigsmile:). Everyone off here will be more than welcome to have a look:thumb:
 

SuperMike

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Thanks for the comments, much appreciated. I would have to say that as we stand at the moment, the kitchen or bathroom looks favorite::bigsmile:

FUN members have been really supportive and given some great advice over the last few months so when the Flxible does eventually get shipped to the UK and anyone off here sees us out and about, DON'T BE SHY!!! we will have plenty of tea and coffee in the cupboard (sorry don't drink alcohol but you can bring your own::bigsmile:). Everyone off here will be more than welcome to have a look:thumb:


No, no, ticket selling is the way to go in paying off the overdraft. :winky:
 
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kex66

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Had a tough decision to make today on the Flxible. We want a rear island double bed in the bus and have seen a Flxible Clipper on the net with one fitted and the late owner of the restoration shop also had one in his bus(no problem there then). HOWEVER, in order to get a 6' bed down the centre of the bus, the walls of the bathroom have to be removed and a "in bedroom" toilet/ basin configuration has to be made.

I don't care how long I've been married, I stopped being watched on the toilet by the time I reached 4 years of age!!!Link Removed

So, if we still want a full size double bed then the only way to do it and keep a proper bathroom is for the bed to go across the bus instead of down the middle. I've given the go ahead and they have sent through pictures of an older restoration that has this configuration. It does mean though that we get a lot more overhead locker spaceLink Removed

THE IMAGES BELOW ARE FOR ILLUSTRATION PURPOSES (NOT MY BUS)

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jhorsf

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You do not know us very well yet you will be lucky to get out of the docks with it before some of us are round for tea:ROFLMAO:
 

Billy23

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OMG.....You are one very brave guy taking that job on!!

Such an interesting post, cannot wait to see the finished job.

Well done! :thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb:

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kex66

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Final sanding taking place over the next couple of days before the paint is applies. I think the black marks on the primer are from a powder they use to see where the high and low spots are but I'm sure someone will correct this if I'm wrongLink Removed

How anyone has the mental attitude and energy to paint a bus is beyond meLink Removed

Just out of camera shot there must be a very large skip!!..................Link Removed
 

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Sep 3, 2013
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Just reading your bed dilemma and I do agree that I'd not want an in-bedroom dunny either. Fine for kids or adults with a broad mind, but not really 'the done thing' when in England, old boy.

Without wishing to get too coarse, one also has to consider 'fume extraction' for the smallest room and filling the bedroom with the wailing and wafts of exhausted methane wouldn't enthrall many.::bigsmile:

I do like those transverse bed pictures.:thumb: All you've got to agree is who clambers over whom.
 

SueBaz

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............So, if we still want a full size double bed then the only way to do it and keep a proper bathroom is for the bed to go across the bus instead of down the middle........ spacehttp://www.rvoc.co.uk/forum/images/smilies/thumbup.gif[/[/quote]

Hi Kex66

Really really impressed with how this is progressing.

Tricky dilemma but life is full of compromises. Our bed runs across the back of the back of our Burstner which does make 'getting up in the night' something of a social event however I think I have empathy with your reasoning: that little difficulty is probably far more sociable than having the throne in the bed-chamber:Blush::Blush:

Regards

Barry

(Think she's going to look fabulous)

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Terry

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Hi Kerry, if everything is ripped out you have a blank canvas so you should have whatever layout you want :winky:
terry
 
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kex66

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A blank canvas...........................::bigsmile:

Everything is now stripped from the Flxible. Heater has been left in place as it's not being moved. The large hole in the last picture is for the shower base. Due to the curved ceiling, head room is restricted so the shower base will be built into the floor to give a few extra inches.:thumb:
 

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Terry

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Hi Kerry no reason why you cannot have your island bed now ::bigsmile::winky:
terry

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kex66

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Hi Kerry no reason why you cannot have your island bed now ::bigsmile::winky:
terry

Unfortunately terry, we only have 6' max for the bedroom layout and being an ex fireman, I'm a bit paranoid about safety so we'll need to leave room for the emergency exit in the bedroom. Those who have single beds made or island beds north to south have been forced to remove the exit altogether. I've seen many layouts now with these buses and the east/ west bed layout seems to have only one shortfall but any other layout eliminates this one shortfall but causes several others.

The image below shows the emergency exit door from the outside.

I couldn't see why an island bed wasn't possible for quite some time but can now see why. I'll post a plan of the floor layout when I get back from Scotland later this week to try and show the restrictions.
 

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kex66

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All of the internal rust has now been treated and tons of primer appliedLink Removed

I'm actually getting quite excited.....................How sad am I!!!!!!
 

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kex66

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Another couple of shots. The second is the all important emergency exit in the bedroom:thumb:

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kex66

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Help needed please!

Can someone answer the questions I'm being asked here? Bit too technical for meLink Removed

Hello again Kerry,

Your post regarding the back up camera is bringing the wiring and consequently, the appliance issue up again in my mind.

Quite frankly, there are so many things to think about on a conversion of this magnitude. I am a systems kind of a person…. I take things in a progression and deal with them as they need to addressed. In your situation, this is different… because we need to address several things simultaneously because of the time constraints I am under here. That is not a problem… just outside of my normal operating environment.

So, to specifically address this conversion for use in England…. We need to use BS 1363 outlets and provide a 12 VDC to 240 VAC 59 hz inverter…. Yes? My question on the inverter is will a modified sine wave unit suffice for your needs? I have located a few inverters in the 5000 watt range… that should be totally adequate, I would think…. Please let me know.

Then there is the issue of the actual appliances themselves.

--The 3 way fridge should be no problem, as the AC is only used to run a heater element, which is a resistive type of element.
-- The roof air conditioner will definitely not work… it will burn it up… so that should either be removed or replaced. I have located a 240 VAC 50 hz unit that would drop in that opening. I am waiting to hear from them regarding availability and pricing.
--the furnace motor is in question at this point… I have to do more research on it.

More food for thought…
 

davejen

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Hi, Kerry, most rvs imported here come with 110v systems, then are sorted to work on 240v supply, either by the importer or clued - up autoelectrician, so you could get them to fit "normal" us gear and have it sorted when you get it here. Might save a load of aggro for the converter and be cheaper too!
Cheers, Dave:thumb::thumb:
 
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kex66

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Hi, Kerry, most rvs imported here come with 110v systems, then are sorted to work on 240v supply, either by the importer or clued - up autoelectrician, so you could get them to fit "normal" us gear and have it sorted when you get it here. Might save a load of aggro for the converter and be cheaper too!
Cheers, Dave:thumb::thumb:

Hi Dave,

I'll try and get all of the work done over there if possible as I'll be paying twice otherwise. Thanks for the reply:thumb:

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pappajohn

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another option for 230v Kerry.

have the converters install all the t+e wiring during the build to your spec.
all that would be required on import would be the fusebox and 230v sockets installing.

that would save a lot of time and disruption working out wiring routes this side of the pond.

easy enough to explain how UK wiring systems are configured, and they can google if necessary.....although the wiring type should be to the UK regulations and BS 7671
 

Snowbird

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Hi Dave,

I'll try and get all of the work done over there if possible as I'll be paying twice otherwise. Thanks for the reply:thumb:

Both my Rockwood and Tiffin RVs were shipped into the UK new and had no 110 whatsoever. The Onan genny was 240 and also the 3 way fridge was 240. All wiring and plugs were UK spec. So they must have experience of UK wiring over there. I would imagine you will be renewing the mains electrics, so it should be no more expensive to replace with UK spec stuff.
 
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kex66

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Both my Rockwood and Tiffin RVs were shipped into the UK new and had no 110 whatsoever. The Onan genny was 240 and also the 3 way fridge was 240. All wiring and plugs were UK spec. So they must have experience of UK wiring over there. I would imagine you will be renewing the mains electrics, so it should be no more expensive to replace with UK spec stuff.

Cheers Snowbird. I've told them it has to be a pure sine wave, 50hz inverter as I'll be running a laptop or iPad and I don't think they would last too long with a cheaper device fitted.

This is a very good article I've just read:

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Snowbird

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Cheers Snowbird. I've told them it has to be a pure sine wave, 50hz inverter as I'll be running a laptop or iPad and I don't think they would last too long with a cheaper device fitted.

This is a very good article I've just read:

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I was going to ask why you needed the inverter. I have a 1.5 KV pure sine wave one built into the van and never use it. My laptop and phones are charged by 12 volt. Much more efficient than inverters. A dedicated 12 volt charger costs a few quid, a good pure sine wave inverter costs a bomb.
 
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kex66

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I was going to ask why you needed the inverter. I have a 1.5 KV pure sine wave one built into the van and never use it. My laptop and phones are charged by 12 volt. Much more efficient than inverters. A dedicated 12 volt charger costs a few quid, a good pure sine wave inverter costs a bomb.

Very good point.
 

Terry

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Hi Kerry, I cannot see why they cannot put in stuff-fridges etc that work on 220v , if they are unable to get compatable things them simply leave holes with wires and pipes-gas- etc so that you can fit uk ones when it gets here.The inverter is a massive one :Eeek: and will cost a bomb :Eeek:half size will be more than sufficient and probably cost half price over there :winky:
terry

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