Wandering to the Balkans (Croatia, Bosnia Herzegovina, Montenegro etc)

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DAY 1 -Set off yesterday for the 8.45pm Dover- Calais via Irish ferries. Arrived early to have time to cook some dinner before we boarded but boat times were alll over the place, not sure why but there were a lot of police and customs staff searching for the escaped prisoner from Wandsworth. Every vehicle searched.

Anyway, as a result we got an earlier delayed ferry so good result! First overnight stop at the lovely free Aire just outside Gravelines. Arrived at 11.00pm French time. Half a dozen vans or so already here. A nice night apart from a search for the mozzy session at 3.am. The Linda recieved half a dozen bites - I seem to escape but we found the annoying buzzer and he left a nice bloody mark on the ceiling after being splatted!!

Tomorrow- on through Belgium and Germany after a bacon buttie.

4 countries in one day

Day 2 - Lots of travelling today, 4 countries covered - France, Belgium, Luxembourg and stopped just inside Germany at Schengen. (never thought about it being a place!)

In hindsight going through France and paying the tolls might have been better. Lots of traffic and delays in Belgium. :(

Nice quiet 5 euro stopover just outside the town. Had a lovely evening wander down to the Mosel through the Vineyards.

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Urm - Germany

Day 3; A nice stay in Urm, home of the tallest Church in the world. A lovely town with the Danube running through, town walls, old crooked buildings, beautiful squares and a nice bike ride along the river. A pleasant but of relaxation after quite a bit of travelling. A big and very busy motorhome park near the sports centre provided parking for 14 euros inc. waste facilities. Fresh water 10 cents a litre.
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Gollin - Austria

Day 4 just an overnight stop in the Austrian mountains.
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River Camping Bled - Slovenia

Days 5/6/7 - A lovely few nights at Lake Bled. Camp Bled site, which seems popular with Brits due to the CAMC connection, was full but River Camping was great. It had a swimming pool which was a plus in the heat and is only 10 mins from Bled on the bikes.

Took a row boat on the lake to the island, cycled the lake, climbed a mountain, Linda swam.in the lake. Had a great (expensive) meal at the 'old cellar' restaurant.

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Ljubljana

Day 8 - A capital city I'd never heard of! Great place though. Lots of history, period buildings, cathedral, river, bridges. A university town with a vibrant and young population.

Also the best flat white in a long time from a very diligent barista!

Parking overnight just out of town for 10 euros.
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Slunj and Radstoke - Slovenia

Day 9 - A short overnight stop. Parked behind a ladies house for 10 euros and wandered to explore Radstoke - a series of waterfalls and old mills that has been turned into a tourist centre. quite pretty. Not much to the town of Slunj but took a nice little walk around the town and the river. I do love a log store!
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Bosnia and Herzegovina - Page 1

Day 10/11 -Crossed the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina and the first job was to find internet SIM card and Bosnia cash so popped into the border town of Bihac. Interesting place with more history than I expected plus cheap ice cream!! Actually, cheap becomes a theme of Bosnia.

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We then moved onto a autocamp site in the Una National Park. 10 euros for a lovely site near the Strbacki falls, right on the river for swimming.

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Bosnia and Herzegovina - Page 2

Day 12 - We moved on to Martin Brod today. Still in Una National Park. Found a lovely park up right on the river but with a very steep lane down with a hair pin bend. It was hairy getting down with a bit of reversing required on the corner. It was also partially gravel so not much grip. Anyway, we got there but I spent 18 hours worrying about how to get out. Eventually I had a plan. Reverse up the hill, back into a small lane halfway up and then forward for the 2nd part. Worked reasonably well except for a slightly burnt clutch going up backwards and a little grounding out of the overhang.

A lovely spot. Visited some more waterfalls!!

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Bosnia and Herzegovina - page 3

Day 13/14 - On to Jajce. Another great Riverside stop just 5 minutes from the walled town with castle, more falls, lots of restaurants. Very pretty, a little touristy and a bit busier than other spots in Bosnia so far but still nice. Had a meal out in town - traditional stew. Bike got a puncture but it just happened that the supermarket opposite us had a innertube of the correct size. I love Bosnia's Bingo supermarkets. They have everything! Stayed here 2 nights. Nice site. 10 euros including all services, toilets and showers. Just a car park by the river really but what more do you need!

Oh, and on our late night walk back from the falls a dog adopted us. She walked all the way back from the falls to our van. Slept over night outside and stayed with us for 2 days. Beautiful friendly dog. Sad to leave her.

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Bosnia and Herzegovina - Page 4

Sarajevo Days 14/15/16 - Stayed in a small park up 10 km out of Sarajevo. Lovely place run by a lovely and helpful man. Only 10 euros a night inc. water and waste.

Just 10 mins walk to the 'Tunnel of Hope' - a tunnel dug under the airport runway during the Bosnia war. It's now a very interesting museum. Sarajevo was an interesting city. Lovely old town, some rough areas, lots of evidence of the war still visible.
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Bosnia and Herzegovina Page 5

Days 17/18/19 Blagaj and Mostar (plus Titos bunker in Konjic)

Visited the Dervish monastery in Blagaj and also climbed the hill to the fort. (Knackering - shouldn't have done it early afternoon!!)

Caught the bus into Mostar which is lovely but a bit touristy with coach groups from Croatia.

On route here we popped into Konjic to have a tour of Titos nuclear bunker built from the 50's to the 70's. Amazing to see all the 60's 70's gear in original condition. Apparently cost 40 billion dollars to build and that's 1970's money!!
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Bosnia and Herzegovina Page 6

Day 20/21 - A trip to Kravaica Waterfalls with a stop off in the walled town of Pocitelj and then on to Trebinje for our last stop in Bosnia.

Kravaica a bit busy with coach loads from Croatia and expensive entry. The falls are great but not so much when overrun with tourists. (If which I am one- I know!!!)

On route we stopped at the little but well preserved town on Pocitelj. After the falls a long trek to Trebinje, our last stop in Bosnia. A gem of a town and not particularly on the tourist route so refreshing! Spent the night in the carpark of a monastery. Off grid and slightly illegal but went ok.


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Montenegro - The first 5 days

An interesting day crossing into Montenegro. We decided to go in via Croatia for 2 reasons. 1. Buying insurance is apparently easier than at more mi or borders. 2. The wife needed to ring the 95 old mother. WiFi calls no good with a 95 yr old so we needed to be in the EU to use our UK SIM.

Phone call went well. Insurance not so. Border guard told me we didn't need insurance as we are from UK and will be covered. On inspection we are not. Not sure why not as Bosnia and Herzegovina are and so is Serbia. We should be but Comfort say we are not. So currently uninsured! 🙄

Anyway, found a lovely little campsite in the woods just a mile or two from the beaches and old town of Herceg Novi.

Stayed 2 nights.

We then moved onto Kotor where we parked in a car park for a day and a night. Lovely town. Horrible cruise ship tour groups everywhere midday ISH. Morning and evening better. Great hike up the mountain to 'the cheese shop' for a drink and then a walk down in the dark!!!

On another 20 miles down the coast to a campsite on the beach. Jaz beach - beautiful sandy beach. Stayed 2 nights and chilled. Took the motorbike into the holiday town of Budvar. Nice little old town but otherwise just a 'resort'.

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Skadar Lake - Montenegro

Parked up at Vranina Camp. A lovely site right on the River. Stayed 2 nights. The camp owner took us on a 3 hour trip around the lake. A monastry, a lovely little village, and fantastic scenery and wildlife. In the afternoon we took a hike up a local mountain by Varina Village. It was a marked trail but what we didn't realise was it was virtually vertical. Fone scrambling up but a nightmare getting down. Took hours longer than expected. so much so that we were descending fo an hour in pitch black. Lost the trail several times and eneding up crawling through bushes. Only Maps.me saved us as we could see the track on the map and just tried to keep ourselves on it. Then once down a mile walk on a busy road in the dark to collect our bikes. home at 8.30pm! Lots of lessons learnt!

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Final few days in Montenegro - Ostrog Monastry, Durmitor National Park (Black Lake, Curevac Peak, Tara Bridge)

Couple of nights off Grid. First we visited the Ostrog monastery - built into the side of a mountain very high. A scary mountain road to get there and a few reverses necessary when cars came the other way!! Fabulous place though. We experienced a Serbian Orthodox Church Service and popped into the cave to see St Ostrog lying there in his Coffin. He seemed very small! Spent the night in the Monastery car park with a few other - Germans! (Most motorhomes here are German)

Next day onto Niksic where we visited another of St Ostrogs Churches and watched a Wedding and something else - not sure what it seemed to be a ceremony of two couples!

Spent the night in Durmintor National Park near the Black Lake which we hiked around. Next day we hiked to the Tara Canyon viewpoint at Curevac - not the best weather for it but it did clear a bit before we left. There was a BIG 4x4 'motorhome' parked with us. I wonder whether these ever get used to their potential. Seems over the top for normal touring.

Then onto Tata Bridge. Built in 1940 but blown up in 1942 to stop the Italians getting through. Rebuilt now. Great views and stopped in a campsite virtually next to it.

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Serbia Days 1 and 2

Left Montenegro with a little relief as we are now back into Fully Com insurance territory. Made our way up to Zlatibor for the night. Stopped off on route to get some cash in Prijepolje, the first major town. A new currency to learn - 100 dinar = 75 pence ish. Stopped at a beautiful Serbian Orthodox Monastery (Mileseva) and then onto Zlatibor - a major tourist centre for Serbia in the mountains. We were kept awake a little in the night due to Saturday night partying down in town. Still, got to 'enjoy' some local music.

Next day - on to another monastery, the most famous in Serbia where we are spending the night with permission of the monks. (Studenica) On route we visited the lovely town of Ivanjica, with the river, old stone bridge and old 1911 Hyrdo electric plant/weir and a 3rd Monestary in the middle of nowhere where we had a chat with the Priest. Not much was said as he spoke little English and we even less Serbian!
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Serbia Days 3 and 4

Spent the night at Studencia Monastery which is beautiful and in a fantastic peaceful countryside setting with monks wandering around and services happening in the church. However, had the worst nights sleep due to the local stray dogs congregating under the van and having barking fits in the middle of the night! Met 2 lovely German ladies who were staying at the monastery and traveling Serbia by public transport - brave!

On to Belgrade with a couple of stops at....yes another Monastery (Zeca) and a Fortress before stopping for two nights in Belgrade at a noisy but cheap and well placed motorhome stop only 3km from the centre. Travelled into town and around by bike which was scary!

Did a really interesting 3 hour city tour with a guide that just worked for tips. Had a local meal at the oldest 'Kafana', went to see the magnificent Orthodox Temple at night, had coffee and cake in the opulent Moskov hotel and a interesting visit to the Yugoslavia Museum.

Studenica Monestary
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Belgrade Trq Square
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The Fortress
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Local Charcoal making in the countryside. Accidentally woke up the bloke supervising who was having a snooze. He was a bit shocked to see 2 tourists taking pictures!
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Orthodox Temple - Belgrade
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Serbia days 5 and 6 and across the border to Croatia.

Left Belgrade and headed north towards to Novi Sad. Parked up at the Fortress to see the sunset and then headed a few milts out of town where we had a lovely local dinner at a restaurant/hotel/farm including a free nights stay. The next day we went back to Novi Sad to explore more of the town, also out to a small town called Sremska Kamencia where we visited a winery to pick up some wine we had the previous evening in the restaurant.

Then on to Subotica - a beautiful 'Art Neauoux' architecture town very near the border. Had a 90 minute tour to the City hall for £1.12!!! After a wander around town we headed up to Pacir where we swam in a pink thermal lake and basked in the 24 degree thermal pools. Stayed there over night but once again disturbed all night by barking dogs! Parked up at a swimming pool car park in Croatia. 23 Euros!! That was a shock to the system! What a quiet night though for a change. No dogs and no people even though we were essentially in the middle of an housing estate.

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Chilling at Krk, Croatia .

Decided to find a nice campsite and chill for a few days after a lot of travelling and sight seeing. A lovely campsite next door to the town of Krk on Krk island fitted the bill. Heated swimming pool and right on the beach. Sadly the weather had other ideas. still, we managed a pleasant 4 days to relax and explore the small town. Even took a bike ride around the coast to Punat.

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Isola, Koper, Piran - Slovenian Coast

Headed to the coastal bit of Slovenia. Stopped at a Camper park up in Isola a small town which used to be an island. Spent two nights her and cycled up to Piran. The next day we explored Koper. Three beautiful towns with lots of historic buildings, ports, squares etc.

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Northern Italy. - Mantua, Sabbioneta and Cinque Terra

Slowly heading homewards now. We decided to head across to Cinque Terra as we didn't manage to fit this in on our Italy trip last year. However on route we discovered Mantua - UNESCO city. Amazing place. Could have spent a day or more there but just had a couple of hours wandering.
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On to Sabbioneta - another UNESCO site where we stopped for the night and the next morning explored 6 of the 7 sites - Palace, Church, Gallery, Synagogue etc. Just ran out of time for the Museum. A wonderful place.
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A night in a car park at a interesting town called Pontrimole . Woke up surrounded by hundreds of parents and kids - it appears it was a school drop off location!

Then on to Cinque Terra. Parked up above Riomaggiore. Walked down to the town, got a boat and visited 2 more of the 5 towns. Lovely day. Drove back to La Spetzia where we found a modern camper park for 15 Euros inc Toilets, Showers etc. A bit noisy next to a road but otherwise very nice.
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Rapello, Santa Margherita, Portofino and Italian Riverera

Rainy day so we drove to Rapello where we parked in a hospital carpark for 12 Euros. Very odd as there were lots of stored or abandoned motorhomes here too! From here we took the Scooter down to Santa Margherita and Portofino. Weather cleared the next day so had a lovely time exploring these towns.

We then did a bit of weather chasing and moved along the coast to Andora and spent a couple of days there. 15 euros for a overnight at theoddest camperstop. Toilets locked and water switched off when we arrived (No one else staying) He opened one toilet shower for us to share. Water and waste dumping only allowed from 9am - 11am.

The next day was beautiful so went on the scooter up the coast to a lovely town called Laigueglia and spent a few hours chilling on the beach. Had an incredible pizza at a new and very popular pizza place in Andora.

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Turin

Time to head north in the direction of Calais and home :confused:

We went to Turin. After a lot of reading of breakings, robberies and dodgy park ups we headed to a campsite on the edge of town. 39 euros (electric and showers extra!!!)
It was full!! However they let us park near the toilet block which actually worked out well and 'only' cost 26 euros. Worth it for peace of mind and safety.

From here we cycled into town and did Turin. Marvellous place. Amazing squares, buildings, palaces. Beautiful ride in through a long park at the side of the river full of families walking and runners/cyclists. The next morning before we left I visited the National Motor Museum which was excellent while wife went shopping!

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France - Final few days heading home

DRAFT:

Just realised I hadn't finished this off. Will complete this properly later but for now just to say -

Chambery,

Fontainebleau,

Arras,

Gravelines

Home!!!!
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Looks like a great trip. We have been to Slovenia/Croatia on a number of occasions and it's beautiful. Can I ask you about insurance for Bosnia, Montenegro etc? Most UK insurers won't insure for those countries. The reason I ask is we are considering driving to Greece next year through The Balkans. I'd prefer to go, Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, (Possibly into BIH) Albania and Greece.
 
Looks like a great trip. We have been to Slovenia/Croatia on a number of occasions and it's beautiful. Can I ask you about insurance for Bosnia, Montenegro etc? Most UK insurers won't insure for those countries. The reason I ask is we are considering driving to Greece next year through The Balkans. I'd prefer to go, Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, (Possibly into BIH) Albania and Greece.

We are with Comfort Insurance (underwritten by Aviva) and Bosnia and Herzegovina are covered as standard under the green card system - fully comprehensive as in UK. So is Serbia. However, Montenegro is not apparently although the border staff and MiB (motor insurers bureau) say it should be. The option if you are not covered is to purchase minimum legal cover for that country at the border but it will only be 3rd party cover. Or...try and find specialist cover in the UK before you leave. I'm arguing Montenegro with my insurance company as I write. We may go onto Albania but that will definitely be a case of buying 3rd party cover. I risk I know but hey - there we go!
 
We are with Comfort Insurance (underwritten by Aviva) and Bosnia and Herzegovina are covered as standard under the green card system - fully comprehensive as in UK. So is Serbia. However, Montenegro is not apparently although the border staff and MiB (motor insurers bureau) say it should be. The option if you are not covered is to purchase minimum legal cover for that country at the border but it will only be 3rd party cover. Or...try and find specialist cover in the UK before you leave. I'm arguing Montenegro with my insurance company as I write. We may go onto Albania but that will definitely be a case of buying 3rd party cover. I risk I know but hey - there we go!
Thanks for that. We were with Comfort (between vans at moment) and I was planning using them again. I'll be interested to know how it goes with Comfort/Montenegro. Just found our old green card and as you say BIH included but MNE crossed out. Serbia is covered but only the bits under government control, so I guess regions like Kosovo are not covered. I'm not sure I'd personally risk Albania, as we will have a brand new van, but I'd love to go! I think our possible route to Greece once we get to Croatia, would have to be Bosnia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Greece, unless things change in the next year.
 
I just came back from everywhere a month ago. Bosnia is fine, only was asked to pay insurance in montenegro and North macedonia, albania doesn't require additional either.

It's approx 50 euro for the insurance and is made in 15 mins directly at both borders
 
I just came back from everywhere a month ago. Bosnia is fine, only was asked to pay insurance in montenegro and North macedonia, albania doesn't require additional either.

It's approx 50 euro for the insurance and is made in 15 mins directly at both borders

Odd..we were told at the border to Montenegro that insurance was not required. Montenegro became part of the European Green Cars scheme in 2021. However, Comfort insurance don't agree so won't cover here. Albania is a definite no go with Comfort. Basically only Bosnia and Serbia are covered.
 
Ah sorry, you might be right. I saw so many countries they are a bit of a blur. I know it was only 2 around the Balkans where insurance was required. Macedonia was definitely one of them and the other was either Albania, Kosovo or Montenegro.
 
Odd..we were told at the border to Montenegro that insurance was not required. Montenegro became part of the European Green Cars scheme in 2021. However, Comfort insurance don't agree so won't cover here. Albania is a definite no go with Comfort. Basically only Bosnia and Serbia are covered.
Did you have any luck with Comfort and cover for Montenegro?
 
Did you have any luck with Comfort and cover for Montenegro?

No, first reply was 'you are not covered'. Then I asked them to escalate and to explain why but not response yet. I also contacted Aviva and they just said - we cannot comment on Comfort policy even though we underwrite it. All I want is a general explanation of why they include Serbia and Bosnia but exclude Montenegro. It just doesn't make sense. But, as with all large companies they are just not interested other than robbing you off with 'thats what it says'.

So we are driving uninsured and very carefully! Heading for Serbia now when fully comp cover will kick in. Not letting it spoil Montenegro though!
 
You are a braver man than me! Hope all goes well. I'm running through some possible routes at the moment, nothing firm decided but would like to end up in Greece. Thanks for the information.
 
You are a braver man than me! Hope all goes well. I'm running through some possible routes at the moment, nothing firm decided but would like to end up in Greece. Thanks for the information.
Well, logically thinking - I have done 24000 miles in the last 2 years or so, mostly abroad, and not had an incident. So statisitically....
 
Well, logically thinking - I have done 24000 miles in the last 2 years or so, mostly abroad, and not had an incident. So statisitically....

Just to update. Out of Montenegro and into Serbia. No accidents or incidents in Montenegro while uninsured :rolleyes: but now back to Fully Comp in Serbia!!! :giggle:
 
Hi again
Meant to ask you, what did you do about phones/data in non EU countries? I've just looked at the roaming charges for Montenegro, Bosnia Herz. and Serbia and they seem pretty steep. Thanks.
 
Hi again
Meant to ask you, what did you do about phones/data in non EU countries? I've just looked at the roaming charges for Montenegro, Bosnia Herz. and Serbia and they seem pretty steep. Thanks.

Definitely don't use you UK roaming. That might be ok in EU countries but not in non EU. I tend to buy a sim just for travel. Lebara, Smarty, RWG, ID mobile and others will all do no contract data sims that you can just use for a month or two and then close the account.

In non EU countries just buy a local sim. Montenegro was something like 7 euros for 500GB for 2 weeks! bosni and Serbia were cheap too. They are easy to buy. They sell tourist sims in kiosks on street corners.

To be honest - it's probably the cheapest way to do it in the EU to.
 
Thanks for that. I’ll probably be switching to Smarty anyway. They have a 12gb cap for EU unless I can find one that does more. Presume the non EU local sim will come as data only? I don’t suppose you need a phone number for iMessage, WhatsApp etc. thanks again very useful info
 
Thanks for that. I’ll probably be switching to Smarty anyway. They have a 12gb cap for EU unless I can find one that does more. Presume the non EU local sim will come as data only? I don’t suppose you need a phone number for iMessage, WhatsApp etc. thanks again very useful info

RWG don't have any limits on their EU data. Well they do but I think its 100GB on their 200GB package
 

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